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LVT-4 "Water Buffalo"


vaoinas

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Shortly after the last update I posted here, I studied the photo further and discovered that the co-driver's hatch on my model is on the different position than showed on the photo. Looking the photo it appears to be on the same line to the driver's hatch, while on the model it is located slightly backwards. There was a slight inner dilemma, whether  I should address this problem, or ignore it, but I felt brave and after a considerable amount of exacto-blade terror on the part, I relocated the hatch to the correct position. After that there were a lot of filling and sanding and then restoring the bolt heads and weld beads that were destroyed during the process. 

On the photos the cut seems to be empty, but it is actually transparent super glue and there's no gap there.

 

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Kristjan

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Checking my references there is evidence to show the hatch's lined up with each other , there is also evidence of them being out of line.

I think the kit is correct in the vehicle being presented

Depending on what LVTA is being modelled its worth checking.

Good work here .

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On 11/02/2019 at 20:11, krow113 said:

Checking my references there is evidence to show the hatch's lined up with each other , there is also evidence of them being out of line.

I think the kit is correct in the vehicle being presented

Depending on what LVTA is being modelled its worth checking.

Good work here .

Thank you!

The AFV kit is totally correct considering the hatches - there were at least two different hatch configuration on early armored cab.

Thing is, there were lot of different variants and configurations of additional armoring and armored cabs and minor details of the vehicle and it seems that almost all the combinations of different details were possible. The specific vehicle, I've chosen to replicate, isn't probably the best choice using this kit. But the choice was made before I had any clue what I'm going to be in to.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So, moving on with my LVT.

 

I added driver's visor lever to the cab and two styrene hooks to the front edge of the roof to hold it down. So I'm finally ready to paint it and be over with interior part of the build. The first paint also reveals, how the hatch surgery went, so I hardly can wait for it.

 

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The inner sides of the fenders were oxidized using Ammo's Photoetch Burnishing Fluid. The idea is that the paint on the edge is likely to wear off while moving roof on and off all the time. Oxide keeps it dark and is more durable than paint.

 

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I completed both tracks as well. These are aftermarket AFV Club plastic tracks and they're very delicate and accurate. Only problem with these was that even though AFV Club had several spare links in the box, there were exact amount of linking pins, and as I lost one of those, I had one short to finish the tracks. I tried to contact with AFV Club and their European retailer, but with no result, so the easiest thing to do was to clone the missing pin myself.

 

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As of other details front additional armor plate was added and front mooring bollards were reproduced using 0.8mm brass tube.

 

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That's it for now.

Til' the next time,
Kristjan

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  • 1 month later...

Thank you all, guys.
 

Teeny tiny update of my build too.

The roof of the crew compartment is painted and weathered inside. I airbrushed a coat of primer outside as well to see, if my surgery on the hatches need some additional filling and sanding, but it seems okay to me.

 

I work on the ramp winch mechanism at the moment and hope to show you some progress on this soon.

 


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Kristjan

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Thank you, Bigfoot.
 

There's a little update on the rear ramp. The purpose is to have the rear ramp movable so I could display it either closed or open position. For that I first drilled the hinges out and added some magnets to hold the ramp closed in the up position. To deal with the cable, I made a little winch mechanism that is hidden in the rear left storage compartment of the hull. The winch is operated by a little crank just like on the real thing. I added 12 grams of soldering wire inside the ramp too before I sealed it, so it would be heavier and therefore add some tension to the thread. Thread I'm having on it now is only temporary for testing purposes - final one will be bit finer.

 

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Thanks for watching,
Kristjan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thank you, John.
 

 

So, getting on with cargo bay area. Grab handles and -railings has been reworked according to early model LVT's.

 

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Voyager set has brass details to replace the kit's water boxes. However they appear to be little too wide and the assembly is bit tricky, so I decided not to use these. There plenty of photos of LVT-4's without these water boxes.

 

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I relocated pike pole to the back of the cabin roof and made new holders using brass tubes.

 

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.30 cal and .50 cal machine guns are assembled as well but ammo containers and -holders are yet to be made.

 

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And this is how the model looks right now:

 

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Kristjan

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Regarding the aerial question (Feb. 10)

It's thin rope/cord tied around the aerial and to a convenient location on the hull and pulled taunt to stop the thing whipping around. the spring base would bend securing the aerial at an angle (45 degrees ?)

Here's a pic of a HUMVEE but you'll get the idea

http://www.nf6x.net/1999/12/m998-hmmwv/

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

Thank you all for your kind words, Especially Modelholic for the info about the aerial. Definitely cleared a few questions about it.

 

But moving on with this thing.

 

I don't have many pictures of all the stuff I plan to place in the cargo hold, but here's some .30 cal ammo boxes to show:

 

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However, there's a lot of stuff to paint and weather separately. Guns obviously, but gun mounts, .30 and .50 ammo boxes, jerrycans, hatches and drive sprockets as well:

 

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Tracks have been primered and painted as well, but they look too silvery to me right now, so I'll have a light coat of dark metallic paint on them before weathering.

 

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And the vehicle itself has a base coat on. There was a lot of doubt of what shade of Olive Drab to use, but I finally went with the Mig acrylics and it seems pretty good to me. 

 

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'til next time,
Kristjan
 

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Thank you, Rob.

 

So by now I have the decals and final coat of satin clear added. I used Bison Decals 35187 sheet. The fact that most decals for my vehicle were bit oversized compared to the photo was bit of a bummer, but since I didn't really have any other option, I decided to use these anyway.

 

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Most of the separate stuff has been painted as well.

 

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Kristjan

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi again,

Washes and oils are added. I tried to make it a bit more worn and rusty than I usually do. These vehicles were made of mild steel and were used in sea water and moist environment. The photo of the real thing show a pretty faded vehicle as well.

 

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And all the other little bits to this model. Of course I won't use all the oil cans, shown here - it would look like a gas station on tracks - but I made few more to choose from later.

 

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Kristjan

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Can't help you with your questions Vaoinas sorry know nothing regarding these LVT

 

But can say what a brilliant job you are doing on it, detail is just popping out well done, look forward to see more.

 

:clap2:

Regards

Richard

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