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IT'S TIME...AMBUSH!!, GERMAN TANK DESTROYERS VOL2, STUG IV SDKFZ.167 1/35 ITALERI


FrancisGL

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On 03/02/2019 at 19:26, PlaStix said:

Utterly stunning progress Francis! Wonderful painting and weathering techniques! :clap2:

Kind regards,

Stix

Many thanks for your interest and like. Little by little, something more real is coming ...

 

Cheers Stix 👍

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On 05/02/2019 at 19:39, modelling minion said:

Truly outstanding work Francis.

The weathering is superb, extremely realistic with the side skirts in particular looking really good.

 

Many thanks for your kind words, i'm glad you like it, They still have more work, I hope not to ruin them ... fingers crossed ...

Cheers mate 👍

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UODATE 07:

 

Hi Pals,

 

We go with the progress of the week. Today we can see that I have added a touch of black on the wheels, although to "the rough", because there is paint where there should not be, no problem, then I correct it.

 

rlQijxK.jpg

 

 

qJsH6US.jpg

 

With the side skirts, I'm trying to make lateral scratches, trying to simulate the passage through narrow and vegetated sites.

 

kLSp2dV.jpg

 

 

9Zjlx3E.jpg

 

 

In principle, I have not yet clear the side-skirts that I will finally place, so I decided to paint them all, hence there are some with a different tone (clearer), later I will age them if necessary.

 

WfZ9LvG.jpg

 

 

Trying to add some chips in red color primer to the vehicle, I will try not to pass ...

 

cnuSsMV.jpg

 

 

To some of the side-skirts, I've done them some damage by projectiles, which have to be refined, although if the result does not seem convincing, or I will not put it, or I'll cover it with some putty.

 

zmw2MVr.jpg

 

 

pndm8JA.jpg

 

Some of the Balkenkreuz of the skirts, I had to do it with a template, because it broke down with the painting process, I do not remember what it is ...

 

A review of the wheels, with black and more adjusted and start painting tools and accessories.

 

ducYuCC.jpg

 

 

vXrFCGU.jpg

 

 

ziJPspe.jpg

 

 

wBgYajM.jpg

 

 

I have also bent them in some areas to simulate "metal plate", in a random way.

 

6jbEdJM.jpg

 

 

EnjSdjy.jpg

 

 

OR6YyLK.jpg

 

 

j3uUu41.jpg

 

 

Rk8vZLJ.jpg

 

 

XnqN7fH.jpg

 

 

h3k1n04.jpg

 

It seems that putty that I used to simulate "concrete", looks good ...:hmmm:

 

Bgmt7Li.jpg

 

 

nKlw2Kf.jpg

 

This vehicle is difficult to manipulate, because by not having turret that can be removed, it is almost inevitable, that some small pieces will they detach from your site or bend (damned PEs), so you need extra time to fix those small damages.

 

As always, thanks for watch and comment,

 

Cheers mates.👍

 

NyuWAWh.jpg

Edited by FrancisGL
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Hi Francis,

That's turning into a rather lovely, battered, old, StuG my friend! Definitely one that's been around the old Soviet Block (to be)

 

A tip for manoeuvring a StuG -

Firstly, wherever possible, place them on a turntable - or something equally suitable, such as an old hardback book placed on a sheet of paper.  Place the StuG on the book and use the paper beneath to turn the book around. (A book is good because it has weight and will stay planted to the table despite the paper being tugged and pulled around)

 

And if you DO have to pick one up to get a brush/AB into those tricky areas, DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL SO YOU CAN INSERT A LENGTH OF DOWEL INTO IT AND USE THAT AS A HANDLE. Make it a tight fit. Balsa wood might be a good choice as it is spongy and will hold the StuG firmly, even upside down.

 

Reargaurds

Badder

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Hewy said:

Francis that is worth a  most genuine wow, I like it a lot

 

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23 hours ago, Badder said:

Hi Francis,

That's turning into a rather lovely, battered, old, StuG my friend! Definitely one that's been around the old Soviet Block (to be)

 

A tip for manoeuvring a StuG -

Firstly, wherever possible, place them on a turntable - or something equally suitable, such as an old hardback book placed on a sheet of paper.  Place the StuG on the book and use the paper beneath to turn the book around. (A book is good because it has weight and will stay planted to the table despite the paper being tugged and pulled around)

 

And if you DO have to pick one up to get a brush/AB into those tricky areas, DRILL A HOLE THROUGH THE BOTTOM OF THE HULL SO YOU CAN INSERT A LENGTH OF DOWEL INTO IT AND USE THAT AS A HANDLE. Make it a tight fit. Balsa wood might be a good choice as it is spongy and will hold the StuG firmly, even upside down.

 

Reargaurds

Badder

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks for your like and support. That is the idea, a vehicle that has been used for what was built, I hope to achieve it ...

 

A very cool trick of the book, pure physics. I have seen in several threads of the forum, pictures of the work of colleagues who have that small circular base and black color, which serves to turn the kit without touching it, but I have to find where to get it they cost more than in kit of the good ones. ..LOL:fight:
For the moment, I will do the book, and for the other method, I have to get suitable materials.

 

Cheer Badder 👍

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23 hours ago, Plasto said:

Looking well worked on. Do you want some suggestions for improvements?

Many thanks for your kind comments. Of course, why not?, Although it may not be within reach of my skills or do not have the materials to carry it out, it is always nice to exchange opinions.

Cheers Plasto 👍

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3 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

Many thanks for your like and support. That is the idea, a vehicle that has been used for what was built, I hope to achieve it ...

 

A very cool trick of the book, pure physics. I have seen in several threads of the forum, pictures of the work of colleagues who have that small circular base and black color, which serves to turn the kit without touching it, but I have to find where to get it they cost more than in kit of the good ones. ..LOL:fight:
For the moment, I will do the book, and for the other method, I have to get suitable materials.

 

Cheer Badder 👍

It's a cake turntable you need francis, used in catering a 10" one  costs  about £5 on a popular auction site 👍👍, looking fine friend

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12 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

Many thanks for your kind comments. Of course, why not?, Although it may not be within reach of my skills or do not have the materials to carry it out, it is always nice to exchange opinions.

Cheers Plasto 👍

Ok here’s is some advice. It’s is constructive feedback aimed at improvement. 

 

I like the model it looks good. 

 

I’d concentrate on the tracks both the live tracks and the spare links. It’s tempting to paint tracks rusty as you have done but in reality tracks on in service vehicles rarely got covered in rust. Museum exhibits yes but the service life operational tempo and servicing by crews  means in reality while the wore got dirty and grubby they probably didn’t rust. I tend with tracks to start with a base paint coat made from a mix of Tamiya NATO black and Hull Red. Mix it towards the grey end of the spectrum with a reddish tinge.( this then makes excellent chipping paint for scratches and chips..)

 

Base coat the tracks in this and then weather from there. A good way to get a in service track look IMHO is to go buy some artists pastels in earth tone from the art shop. Get pastels not oil pastels. 

 

Scrape  these down into a pastel dust and mix with enamel thinners and apply liberally to the painted tracks... once dry take a stiffish brush and knock off the now dry pastel mix to taste.  A rub over the wear points with a silver water colour pencil or some careful dry brushing with a silver paint helps to make the tracks look worn. 

 

On Most tracked vehicles the track tension is important. As tracks wear they become loose and the looser they are the greater the risk of a track being thrown. So part of the day to day life of a tracked AFV crew is to ensure the tracks are correctly tensioned. On a Panzer IV this is done by  I believe by adjusting the rear Idler which is on an eccentric. Cranking this out takes up the slack in the track to a point. At which point you either remove a link or get new tracks. 

 

The model to me has far to much slack track hard to correct now but possibly useful in future..

 

Also the track tension mechanism would show wear it’s the big bolt on the inside of the rear idler wheel. Some chipping here would be useful.

 

If you get a 15cm length of electrical wire and strip off the outer plastic insulation you will end up with the copper conductor strands. Depending on the gauge you have if you then tightly wind the wire using an electric drill or by hand you end up with a very very realistic representation of a tow cable. Far better than the plastic kit version. It’s possible to salvage the towing eyes off of the plastic cable or to make your own in the wire cable you just made.  This costs almost nothing to do and is a really great upgrade to most older kits..

 

So hope this helps a bit.

 

cheers 

 

Plasto

Edited by Plasto
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On 10/02/2019 at 12:32, Ozzy said:

Fantastic looking Stug Francis, the weathering really sets the build off nicely.

Many thanks for your like and kind words, i'm glad you like it, There is still much left to do...:hmmm:

Cheers Ozzy 👍

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On 10/02/2019 at 22:39, Hewy said:

It's a cake turntable you need francis, used in catering a 10" one  costs  about £5 on a popular auction site 👍👍, looking fine friend

Many thanks for the advice, who was going to say it was "that", and the popular site that you insinuate will not be "A ---- N" ...? ... lol.
I've already looked there, and I've ordered one, quite large, a little more expensive, but, I'm not going to buy one every day ... lol

 

About the popularity of the site ... a joke ... The teacher in class asks the children: "how do you ask for things? ...
And they answer him in chorus: "By Am --- n ..." (the answer that the teacher expected was "Please" ...)😁

Cheers Hewy 👍

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On 11/02/2019 at 07:49, Plasto said:

Ok here’s is some advice. It’s is constructive feedback aimed at improvement. 

 

I like the model it looks good. 

 

I’d concentrate on the tracks both the live tracks and the spare links. It’s tempting to paint tracks rusty as you have done but in reality tracks on in service vehicles rarely got covered in rust. Museum exhibits yes but the service life operational tempo and servicing by crews  means in reality while the wore got dirty and grubby they probably didn’t rust. I tend with tracks to start with a base paint coat made from a mix of Tamiya NATO black and Hull Red. Mix it towards the grey end of the spectrum with a reddish tinge.( this then makes excellent chipping paint for scratches and chips..)

 

Base coat the tracks in this and then weather from there. A good way to get a in service track look IMHO is to go buy some artists pastels in earth tone from the art shop. Get pastels not oil pastels. 

 

Scrape  these down into a pastel dust and mix with enamel thinners and apply liberally to the painted tracks... once dry take a stiffish brush and knock off the now dry pastel mix to taste.  A rub over the wear points with a silver water colour pencil or some careful dry brushing with a silver paint helps to make the tracks look worn. 

 

On Most tracked vehicles the track tension is important. As tracks wear they become loose and the looser they are the greater the risk of a track being thrown. So part of the day to day life of a tracked AFV crew is to ensure the tracks are correctly tensioned. On a Panzer IV this is done by  I believe by adjusting the rear Idler which is on an eccentric. Cranking this out takes up the slack in the track to a point. At which point you either remove a link or get new tracks. 

 

The model to me has far to much slack track hard to correct now but possibly useful in future..

 

Also the track tension mechanism would show wear it’s the big bolt on the inside of the rear idler wheel. Some chipping here would be useful.

 

If you get a 15cm length of electrical wire and strip off the outer plastic insulation you will end up with the copper conductor strands. Depending on the gauge you have if you then tightly wind the wire using an electric drill or by hand you end up with a very very realistic representation of a tow cable. Far better than the plastic kit version. It’s possible to salvage the towing eyes off of the plastic cable or to make your own in the wire cable you just made.  This costs almost nothing to do and is a really great upgrade to most older kits..

 

So hope this helps a bit.

 

cheers 

 

Plasto

Thank you for your comments, enough of what you comment, I already knew (no matter, friend), what happens is that I have not yet reached those touch-up points, so the imcomplete sensation is visible, although there would be that they would finish it.

What about the tracks, they still need dust and metal, what you see is the base layer, and if there is any rust, I'm sorry ... lol.
With the side-skirts, a lot of that, you will not see, not because I do not like it, but I like the side-skirts more, the ideal would have been to put them and remove them at will, but the adjustment / alignment is "abstract" put it in some way...

The drag cable, I've seen videos of how to do it, I did not plan to change it, because it is not finished yet, maybe when I see it, I decided to change it for a copper one, according to the method you mention, which is undoubtedly the best .

Cheers Plasto 👍

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Hi Francis,

 

She's looking great; especially those side armour plates and how you've positioned them.

 

I never ceases to amaze me how some modellers pick out the painting once everything is built. You must have a lot of patience and a very steady hand!!

 

Cheers

 

Nigel

 

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On 11/02/2019 at 10:45, PlaStix said:

Hi Francis. It looks like you have made excellent progress with your weathering. It is turning into a real work of art! :clap2:

Kind regards,

Stix

Many thanks for your most kind words, I really would like to ...😁

Cheers Stix 👍

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On 14/02/2019 at 10:09, wimbledon99 said:

Hi Francis,

 

She's looking great; especially those side armour plates and how you've positioned them.

 

I never ceases to amaze me how some modellers pick out the painting once everything is built. You must have a lot of patience and a very steady hand!!

 

Cheers

 

Nigel

 

Many thans for your kind words, i'm glad you like it, the lateral skirts, are not yet in their final place, that is, they are not yet fixed, because it is possible that it changes, adds, or deletes ...
Maybe I have more patience than skill, because I never seem enough what I do, and almost always I have to correct, although without a doubt, both are necessary for this ... 😁

Cheers Nigel 👍

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UPDATE 08

 

Hi Pals, here we go with the progress of the week ...

 

I have continued with the finishing of the accessories, and I have added some details, such as a helmet, as weapons and some more equipment.

 

 

pOFrzP6.jpg

 

 

yEQenXv.jpg

 

 

8tApZfd.jpg

 

 

NVrxBaC.jpg

 

 

b0zn0pA.jpg

 

 

fUAlUdU.jpg

 

 

ICJzOLB.jpg

 

The side-skirt with projectile damage, also more profiled, and the tug cable, I can change it for a copper one, I'll see later...

 

 

DLUBy4F.jpg

 

 

PKDhivz.jpg

 

 

8Iz6tJt.jpg

 

 

lZVjGCQ.jpg

 

 

DLElIZH.jpg

 

 

The pack of jerrycans, I have decided to paint it as if it were water, and I have attached them with mask tape. So there is a touch of different color.

 

 

8lAl0Ij.jpg

 

 

TGfOoJG.jpg

 

The ammunition tape, is a PE, which brings several, but I expected something better, it is completely flat ... even so it is not bad at all ...

 

Time to start with the soiling of the sides and bottoms, with pigments and some specific products for splashes. The idea is to make dry mud, if possible with a different tone, a more recent one, over another older one (or darker over lighter).


For that I used two pigment tones, with layers, waiting for it to dry, because it changes tone when doing it.

Then, a layer of splashes, and when drying, a little paint in some parts to accentuate the contrast as much as possible.

 

MwPbN5x.jpg

 

 

lxOOoKX.jpg

 

 

WbYnvCX.jpg

 

 

XaCEGWd.jpg

 

 

dxZYVBd.jpg

 

 

mIy4ktf.jpg

 

 

M7WjSFR.jpg

 

 

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ywA8aY2.jpg

 

 

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SldMXJd.jpg

 

 

ZcVdkLC.jpg

 

 

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GszNz3N.jpg

 

 

JEWUPy4.jpg

 

 

bp7T5PI.jpg

 

 

Hszl2vF.jpg

 

 

5tw4Oad.jpg

 

 

kta722c.jpg

 

 

The belly of the Stug, is a layer of pigments, which once almost dry, have been "melted" with solvent, to simulate mud dragged back, with some gushing of grease from the lower rivets ...

 

 

C1pISzh.jpg

 

 

As I have previously mentioned, the skirts do not know exactly where they will go or how many, and I have thought of putting some red, to simulate, the loss of the original, and the subsequent replacement ... more chaos ...
a pity that some work is lost, but I see it more convincing, of course they will be "dirty" ...

 

 

C2KsiyQ.jpg

 

A touch of metal on the tracks, later will be outlined.

 

Thanks for watch and comment as always.

 

Cheers mates.:lol:

 

NyuWAWh.jpg

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On ‎2‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 6:49 AM, Plasto said:

 

Scrape  these down into a pastel dust and mix with enamel thinners and apply liberally to the painted tracks... once dry take a stiffish brush and knock off the now dry pastel mix to taste.  A rub over the wear points with a silver water colour pencil or some careful dry brushing with a silver paint helps to make the tracks look worn. 

 

Hi Plasto,

I have to disagree strongly on the silver! Well, for German AFVs anyway. The fact is the shine is not down to exposed silver metal, but a misinterpretation of the 'shine' seen in WWII Black and White photos. Worn German tracks, and drive sprocket teeth etc are a glossy reddish-brown. The 'shine' is merely the light glinting off the polished metal (just as a brown showroom car can shine 'white/silver' under spotlights)

 

Reaguards

Badder 

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