Jump to content

The first HK Lancaster WIP?


Recommended Posts

On 12/27/2018 at 6:30 PM, Chaotic Mike said:

And we're off.  Plastic has been cut, post a bit of priming.  First up, am I the only person who doesn't get on well with Ultimate Primer?  This was sprayed at about 25 psi, varying ranges...

 

y4m3u-_8VgXsXaoUBr0WBigxmu3CcuGz1BdTAxc3

 

Laters...

 

Mike

 

That’s one of the reasons why I use Halfords rattle can primer. Great work Mike, I invested in one of these yesterday. My question is why was the engineer seat  not included?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/24/2019 at 5:29 PM, Chaotic Mike said:

Nigel over on LSP has spotted a howler courtesy of HKM, concerning the horizontal stabilisers.  Long story , they are moulded so that the two upper surfaces mate with each other, and the two lower surfaces mate with each other, but you can't build correct left and right stabilisers with the appropriate upper and lower surfaces.  "Unbuildable!", I hear you shriek.  Not so fast.  Nigel has proposed a fix which you can find elsewhere; I have adopted a simpler (to me) approach.  The main problem is that the stabilisers' surfaces that connect to the fuselage have a couple of pegs to reinforce the join.  Trouble is that these are associated in such a way that the stabilisers with the pegs can't be joined without a bit of surgery, so look at these 2 pics:

 

y4mzkMm5cdq5kDnVIxEqBzlGTXL336t1eXUEui8Z

 

y4mYob1HcBSwUhUVweXiPMdgqlUvkPiMm4gEW44i

 

In the first picture, I have removed the piece of the pegs that aligns with the shell of the stabiliser, but left the majority of the peg intact.  In the second picture, I have just cut and filed away the whole peg.  This means that this pair of parts will now join successfully - I also had to remove the pin sockets from both halves, but that's a trivial task.

 

On the other side, you are left with a pair of components that mate to leave a couple of holes on the face that goes against the fuselage - I will install suitable dowel/tube/sprue/whatever to create a pair of pegs when I get round to joining the stabilisers to the fuselage.

 

Apart from the above, I have spent 3 hours (no, really) doing nothing except masking the crew canopy.  Come on Eduard.... you know you want to...

 

Mike

They have 😄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, avro683 said:

That’s one of the reasons why I use Halfords rattle can primer. Great work Mike, I invested in one of these yesterday. My question is why was the engineer seat  not included?

Indeed, I'm using Halfords for the rest. The engineer's seat is included, but strangely HKM have you fit at after closing the fuselage. I s'pose I *could* have done it earlier... 

 

Currently working my way through 18 500lb bombs. Boring! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Chaotic Mike said:

Indeed, I'm using Halfords for the rest. The engineer's seat is included, but strangely HKM have you fit at after closing the fuselage. I s'pose I *could* have done it earlier... 

 

Currently working my way through 18 500lb bombs. Boring! 

Thanks Mike, I found it after I wrote my post. There is a problem with it in that it’s square and folded down whereas in the Mk1/lll it’s rectangular and folded up. Oh the joys of modelling! I bought the Iconicair Dambuster conversion as well so I will store the bombs for now. I’m sure that they will come in useful sometime in the future.

Edited by avro683
Text
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

After reading through this and the LSM posts I wonder if my sanity should be questioned. 

 

Why?

At the Salisbury Model Show today there was an HK Models 1/32 Lancaster at a very interesting price. 

I'd deliberately left my cards at home. 

I weakened... asked the vendor if Apple Pay worked on his machine. 

He didn't know. 

I tried. 

It worked. 

The kit is mine. 

 

It is impressive... 

I'll start it after the summer. 

Meanwhile, I'll follow this thread, if I many! 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Haha 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, 224 Peter said:

After reading through this and the LSM posts I wonder if my sanity should be questioned. 

 

Why?

At the Salisbury Model Show today there was an HK Models 1/32 Lancaster at a very interesting price. 

I'd deliberately left my cards at home. 

I weakened... asked the vendor if Apple Pay worked on his machine. 

He didn't know. 

I tried. 

It worked. 

The kit is mine. 

 

It is impressive... 

I'll start it after the summer. 

Meanwhile, I'll follow this thread, if I many! 

 

 

 

 

 

Something similar happened to me At Milton Keynes in April. I have the Dam Buster conversion set too, which is very nice. I recommend that you buy the Kits World upgrade decal sheet, the one in the kit has a number of surprising errors. The Airscale instrument panel is worth it too as the kit panel has blanks and there are no dials on the kit decal sheet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely metal gun barrels (please leave one for me !) and I would also recommend the masking set too as there is a lot of glass!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/5/2019 at 1:04 PM, Chaotic Mike said:

Progress, you say?  Well, mainly masking transparencies and assembling the turrets.  Have some gratuitous turret action...

Mid upper:

y4m6rXXE7qPb5CEkdOnGIiA8I9KR3K44t9TO22KZ

You can see where I have drilled out the lightening holes on the frame that supports the guns.  I also drilled the holes on the sleeves that the guns poke through.  You can almost see them above - taking photos of black holes on a black background is a challenge!  I'll need to put a little brass onto the cartridge belts, and touch up the scuffs and scrapes that assembly is bringing to the party.

 

Front:

y4mPiaRjRaycBKR-N7VvEmu7AVRqFg8c7NjRy0Ef

 

Funny how well filled ejector pin marks reappear under a coat of paint.  Did I say 'funny'?  It isn't...

 

Next pic tries to show the three different shades of black I'm using, which are Tamiya Flat Black, Semi-gloss black, and a metallizing wash made of very thinned black and silver, with the emphasis on the black.  There's a lot of black in my future, I think...  As opposed to the Future in my black that I'll use for a wash...

y4mvqTznYS_WRkpgoO8r4kcPFt7WsTd6AjW1HN7E

 

Not visible are the tiny rivets I fashioned to attach the seat belts to the cushion frame.  But I know they're there.

 

Finally, the gorgeous Master Models gun barrels, that are so much better than the plastic.  The plastic isn't bad, but these go to a different level:

y4mlfSjORtONj98el79Pkp3a-BloZ4-Z3MNqP0kv

 

These won't be going anywhere near the model until assembly completes.  I know how clumsy I can be!

 

 

Oooooo Pretty, pretty...😗

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just ordered canopy masks, paint masks, Model Master gun barrels to go with the after market decals and interior cockpit photo etch parts. 

About £100...

 

The cost of paint will be significant as well.... a lot of matt black! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Peter, use a very dark grey, something such as Tamiya 69 Nato Black or Revell 09 Anthracite. They still give the impression of black but are less harsh.

Edited by avro683
Typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎6‎/‎1‎/‎2019 at 4:12 PM, 224 Peter said:

After reading through this and the LSM posts I wonder if my sanity should be questioned. 

 

Why?

At the Salisbury Model Show today there was an HK Models 1/32 Lancaster at a very interesting price. 

I'd deliberately left my cards at home. 

I weakened... asked the vendor if Apple Pay worked on his machine. 

He didn't know. 

I tried. 

It worked. 

The kit is mine. 

 

It is impressive... 

I'll start it after the summer. 

Meanwhile, I'll follow this thread, if I many! 

 

 

 

 

 

Feel free to follow!  It's a long drawn out war of attrition, I have just completed assembly (not painting) of the fuselage, one side solid and one side transparent with the framing highlighted.  If I ever did it again I'd consider drilling and filing out the skin to leave the framework.  Probably stop at considering, though!

I painted the bomb load IJN green (its a great substitute for British Bronze Green) and then hand painted on the arming stripes (red and grey).  But I think they look too bad even to represent swiftly applied markings from an armourer.  Does anyone know a good trick for applying reasonably even rings onto the nose of bombs?

 

I have lettering masks in production at the moment to do PO-S as she is in Hendon, with paddle-blade props.  I think patching the windows on the solid plastic side will need very careful filling and polishing, to avoid losing the exquisite surface detail.  Letters should be a highly attractive red-with-a-yellow-surround.

 

Mike 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only way I know to make even stripes that works for me  is if you have variable speed dremel or even a drill. place the drill in a vise and attach the end of the bomb in the bit chuck and let the bomb rotate slowly while holding the brush next to the bomb to paint the stripe.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm   I could give it a go although I'm not sure I have a collet for my Dremel that can cope with the size of these bombs.  Unless I'm missing something obvious, which is entirely possible...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

YOu'll have to do it slowly but try a piece of modellers clay(kids type) thta doesn't dry or harden. attach  to cutting wheel and then bomb to putty.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like this. Sorry for quality, quick pic.

47996468073_9fddede3ca_z.jpg

Hope this makes sense. The trick is not to go fast otherwise the part just flies off against the wall, or your head.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That makes sense.  Blu tack would be the obvious sticking mechanism, and I hear what you say about rotation speed.  Mind you, if I could get the bomb stable at 10000rpm it wouldn't take long to get the stripes on!  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In fact I just got latest issue(july) in the post and they do a review of the Lanc. Their comment " HK's Lancaster is big, REALLY BIG!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

The only way I know to make even stripes that works for me  is if you have variable speed dremel or even a drill. place the drill in a vise and attach the end of the bomb in the bit chuck and let the bomb rotate slowly while holding the brush next to the bomb to paint the stripe.

 

Sounds like a god idea, perhaps insert a screw into the tail end: the damage would be easy to fill. Then holding the drill in a vice and some sort of clamp for the brush, or spring-bow pen. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've settled on making KB837, a Canadian built machine. Why? The Squadron codes are SE for 431 Squadron and the indvidual aircraft is X. The nose art is "appropriate"!

 

The A/C survived the war and returned to Canada in 1947 and was struck off charge in 1950. 

 

Two questions: 

1. Fine props or paddle blades?

2. The A/C had an H2S dome, there is one in the kit, but no obvious position under the fuselage.  Does anyone know the distance between the tail wheel and rear end of the scanner cover?

 

Whilst on the subject, the rear of the H2S cover is clear. What, if anything, was visible? Anyone know?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...