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The first HK Lancaster WIP?


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5 hours ago, Uncle Uncool said:

Looks like a bass guitar. Schecter Stargazer? :hmmm:

 

3 hours ago, JosephLalor said:

Looks like a headless bass to me.  NS Design I think.

As Joseph said, not a Shecter, defo a headless. Looks nice and light (though looks can be deceptive) and if it's nicely balanced then I will have to try to give one a test before I buy another bass...

 

Thanks for the pointer Joseph, I'll have a look at NS Design. Never seen them before.

 

Kev

 

Think I've found it - looks like it's an NS Design NXT4a Radius bass - May cost me a bit more than I hoped to spend... Somehow guitars are a LOT like models.... 😁 Thanks Joseph.

Edited by modelman182
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On 12/22/2018 at 6:19 AM, modelman182 said:

 

As Joseph said, not a Shecter, defo a headless. Looks nice and light (though looks can be deceptive) and if it's nicely balanced then I will have to try to give one a test before I buy another bass...

 

Thanks for the pointer Joseph, I'll have a look at NS Design. Never seen them before.

 

Kev

 

Think I've found it - looks like it's an NS Design NXT4a Radius bass - May cost me a bit more than I hoped to spend... Somehow guitars are a LOT like models.... 😁 Thanks Joseph.

You're almost right. I started playing in the 80's,when the original carbon fibre Steinbergers were developed. Ned licensed the technology to Hohner, who created 'The Jack', a design that became well known for its stability, cost-effectiveness. compact size and range of usable tone. I'm a progger at heart, and after several years swapping between a Jack as my main bass and a separate headed fretless, I combined eBay, a tame luthier and about £500 in total and thus was born the Frankenbass. It's 2  1/2 Jack's, one fretted, one fretless, with independent wiring so I can select each, both, or neither neck as desired (playing both necks at once is good for pose value, if not being necessarily musical). Check out www.elainesamuels.co.uk and follow links to the Kindred Spirit Band (prog/folk hybrid) or www.thezonerock.com (power trio, although we have recently captured a keyboard player).  These days I use a Sire Marcus Miller, and a Squier Vintage Modified fretless, because Frankenbass, even though light for a double-neck, is still flamin' heavy! 

 

And now, it's time to cut plastic! 

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3 hours ago, Chaotic Mike said:

You're almost right. I started playing in the 80's,when the original carbon fibre Steinbergers were developed. Ned licensed the technology to Hohner, who created 'The Jack', a design that became well known for its stability, cost-effectiveness. compact size and range of usable tone. I'm a progger at heart, and after several years swapping between a Jack as my main bass and a separate headed fretless, I combined eBay, a tame luthier and about £500 in total and thus was born the Frankenbass. It's 2  1/2 Jack's, one fretted, one fretless, with independent wiring so I can select each, both, or neither neck as desired (playing both necks at once is good for pose value, if not being necessarily musical). Check out www.elainesamuels.co.uk and follow links to the Kindred Spirit Band (prog/folk hybrid) or www.thezonerock.com (power trio, although we have recently captured a keyboard player).  These days I use a Sire Marcus Miller, and a Squier Vintage Modified fretless, because Frankenbass, even though light for a double-neck, is still flamin' heavy! 

 

And now, it's time to cut plastic! 

... And then I looked at my avatar! That's just a stock 1980's Hohner Jack. They come up on eBay fairly frequently, and they are excellent. They were very well made. 

 

Mike

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1 hour ago, Chaotic Mike said:

... And then I looked at my avatar! That's just a stock 1980's Hohner Jack. They come up on eBay fairly frequently, and they are excellent. They were very well made. 

 

Mike

I must admit that I had to go back and look, too! I was sure I'd asked about a single neck headless? 🙂 The Frankenbass sounds lovely, I envy you it (but not the shoulder pain that inevitably ensues - I hankered for a Shergold 12 + 4 Marathon for many years until I actually hefted one!).

 

As it turns out, I've had a happy moment of madness today in my local music shop and picked up a very nice Ibanez SR300EB in black for £267, an even nicer Epiphone Les Paul 100 (one of my favourite guitars) in black for only £70 and a Fender Rumble 15 to make some noise. In mitigation, I have also bought a pair of AKG studio Headphones to try not to annoy the neighbours TOO much 🙂 

 

I've also just found a source for my favourite effects box (a Line 6 Pod) so that will be ordered and my musical nostalgia trip can begin. I see a whole heap of Camel, Yes, ELP, Floyd and others in my near future... (see, you're not alone in the Prog dream! 😉 )

 

Thanks for the info, Mike.

 

Kev

 

ps - the Lanc is a big and imposing beast, isn't it? - thought I'd better, at least, mention a model in the reply 😊

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6 minutes ago, marky sparky said:

Page 2 and not a single pic! 😡 It's supposed to be 'work in progress'

Maybe Mike's currently working on the "see through" part?

Edited by billn53
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And we're off.  Plastic has been cut, post a bit of priming.  First up, am I the only person who doesn't get on well with Ultimate Primer?  This was sprayed at about 25 psi, varying ranges...

 

y4m3u-_8VgXsXaoUBr0WBigxmu3CcuGz1BdTAxc3

 

I started with this...

y4mglkTfzDYcsjYeEn7UD6lG1V9d4gwy-shLqN7E

 

Quite nicely moulded.  Of course the only sensible thing to do was this...

y4mGOcjlk_N9SxNFxFkV6ADrOOFsw58wCHUZRXmr

 

...ready for the Airscale IP.  Because this wasn't strictly necessary, it stands to reason that the original IP fought back...

 

y4myVUQBGypBx-6BXpjuxT9zo4Xj_yQbz8Jj25ig

 

If anyone watched the Tempest log, they might spot a theme of my modelling technique.  Next update should feature a painted and distressed driver's seat - not for another 24 hours, though.

 

Laters...

 

Mike

 

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Ah - I see that (like most modellers and musicians) you have a Masters in Masochism and a first class degree in self-inflicted injury.

 

That primer looks seriously unusual. Never used Ultimate myself (I use AK's Primer & microfiller), but it looks as though it may have 'separated' and become seriously thinned. Had it happen with some paints, but I now use pieces of bamboo skewer to stir recalcitrant paints and agitate any sediment at the bottom of the bottle - followed by plenty of vigorous shaking. HTH.

 

Looking forward to the next update. How are you gonna "distress" the driver's seat? Show it your thumb, perhaps? 😉

 

Kev

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The distress is being caused by two shades of green, micromesh 3600 and Citadel Devlan Mud. 

Regarding the primer, I agitate sternly with a ball bearing in the bottle, so it ought to be well mixed. It looks creamy in the brush. 

Probably resort to either Halford gray, or Plastikote. Smelly, but *very* effective. 

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Orange peel. Also I've never used ultimate primer so I don't know whether it's acrylic or oil based. Really looks like it had a bad reaction to the plastic. So I'm at a loss on how to prevent this. I have washed all my projects with mild soapy water. I've also used a mild rubbing compound on the surfaces. A long time ago I used Polly S to paint and thinned with denatured alcohol. On the odd occasion run into orange peel. Removed the paint and started over with a different result. No orange peel.

 

Ron VanDerwarker

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Gah! First Airscale IP failure. Awaiting number 2,now I have learned certain things, like your really want to cut the acetate instrument glass a bit smaller than the template. And that nothing glues metal to acetate to decal. Unless further tips are to be forthcoming from the hive mind? 

 

I'll just sit here getting high on primer fumes... i 

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6 minutes ago, Chaotic Mike said:

Gah! First Airscale IP failure. Awaiting number 2,now I have learned certain things, like your really want to cut the acetate instrument glass a bit smaller than the template. And that nothing glues metal to acetate to decal. Unless further tips are to be forthcoming from the hive mind? 

 

I'll just sit here getting high on primer fumes... i 

Try Kristal Klear (the microscale stuff) - I've found that works for that combination. I've heard that 'Future' can do good job too, but I've not tried that cos KK has worked for me. thin coat between decal and acetate and thicker coat between acetate and PE - should give you a good 'glass' look.

 

Kev

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Great! I don't do 1/32, but I do want to watch the slaying of one of these beasts! :popcorn:

 

I don't use acrylic paints, but I wonder if the primer issue was due to chemicals on the plastic. Did you give it a good wash in the tub? Hm, perhaps the pool they used to film the Titanic movie is big enough"

I also use MSI MKK for instrument gauge glass.

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4 hours ago, dnl42 said:

Great! I don't do 1/32, but I do want to watch the slaying of one of these beasts! :popcorn:

 

I don't use acrylic paints, but I wonder if the primer issue was due to chemicals on the plastic. Did you give it a good wash in the tub? Hm, perhaps the pool they used to film the Titanic movie is big enough"

I also use MSI MKK for instrument gauge glass.

No, I haven't washed it... Too lazy? Normally this doesn't seem to be a problem. I suppose I could lob it in the bath... It's too big for the sink! 

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