Weathering with scratch remover liquid

[Doom3r]

Hi,

 

I was reading a book on modelling Zero and author mentioned technique I've never heard of so far: author painted a layer of silver paint, then seals it with future, then paint that represents aircraft primer and finally actual paint. I've tried that on the leftover wingtips from Airfix Zero but having hard time figuring out a good tool to apply this technique along the panel lines and in a bit more guided way. Did any of you used similar technique? How were you able to finer apply the liquid to pull the paint layers along the panel lines? if not what would be the alternative to it to have chips through 3-4 different paint layers?

 

Thanks!

Edited December 18, 2018 by Doom3r

[Doom3r]

Ok. Tried few things on piece of the wing that is left over from wing fold mechanism and here is what I've got so far.

 

Preparation:

1) Black base (for the sake of experiment I used Model Master Gloss Black acrylic paint.  

2) Model Master buffing aluminum metalizer (let it cure and buffed to the shine)

3) Brush painted Future (or whatever it is now)

4) Brush painted Italian Red (Idea was to try gloss paint and it just happened to be the gloss paint in the 1st row of red/orange paints in my paints drawer

5) Brush painted Tamiya XF-76 (I realized I did put way too thick layer)

 

To pull the paint I used small piece of paper towel wrapped around toothpick.

 

What I've got so far:

1) Novus Fine and Heavy scratch remover go through paint XF-76 slowly and I am getting good control. However due to quite thick layer of it it takes forever (heavy goes faster). Having hard time penetrating Italian Red. End up using toothpick to make a small hole in the red layer and chip away red paint... Wondering if this would work with airbrushed layers. Also wondering what would happen if primer is flat.

2) Mr Metal metal polish. Goes through Tamiya paint quite fast, red paint slower. Just realized it has ammonia so it is more dissolves paint but does it ok. Hot sure though how it would work if "primer" isn't gloss.

3) 91% IPA goes through paints slower than Mr Metal but bit cleaner. Have no idea how would it work with airbrushed layers.

 

All 3 results produced really nice 2-layer chipping effect: regular paint getting "damaged" in uneven ways and exposes "primer". Primer "chipped" away via toothpick and looks quite realistic realistic. Exposed "bare metal layer" looks like metal (maybe a bit shiny though but I am pretty sure it would loose it due to at least 6 further layers of different types of clear coats (2 for decalling, at least 3 for weathering and then final layer). 

 

I am going to try few more thinks:

1) I am going to try to do the same with airbrushed layers;

2) I am going to try to use a hairspray either under the "primer" or body color.

3) I am going to try same for flat "primer" layer

 

After trying these methods I'll try the best on the Airfix Zero tha I am building and if it would not work out... I'll have one more Christmas tree decoration piece (right next to HB easy build Hellcat and ICM Yak-7b). Also my local hobby shop sells Airfix Zeroes just for $8 so I would get another one and try something else

[Stalker6Recon]

There are a few options for chipped paint that I have seen, and they all work in the videos. You mentioned the hairspray method, which I happened to watch last night on the muffler of a tank. Anyway, I forget the layering order, but the modeller used an airbrush for the basecoat/primer, then used sponge for appying several rust colors. Then I think he used the hairspray before a final airbrush coat of the tank paint color.

 

Then he used ordinary tap water, applied generously with a q-tip, then he gently scratches the paint using a cut off q-tip and clearing the removed paint via the cotton side of the q-tip. The final product was absolutely spot on realistic.

 

If I find the page again, I will share it with you.

Anthony

[Stalker6Recon]

Here is the link to the chipping via hairspray, hope this helps.

 

Anthony