Badder Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 3 minutes ago, PlaStix said: Hi Badder. Very effective painting and weathering again. Always amazed how you create such realistic effects. Very nicely done. Kind regards, Stix Hi Stix, Thanks.... although of course it's going to look a fair bit different when it's finished! And it's nearly finished now. Update shortly. Rearguards, Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 (edited) Today I gave everything a gloss coat to fix the powder washes, (TOP TIP, YOU CAN ALSO FIX THEM WITH MICROSOL) then appied another all over wash and a slightly more targetted wash with the same Dark Earth Weathering Powder/water solution. When dry, I rubbed back some areas with a stiff damp brush - those areas being the gun platform, and the sloped section dropping down from it towards the fighting compartment floor. The thinking was that the floor and the lower areas of the compartment would have gotten muddy from dirty boots, and heavy rain and general stompingaroundness would have splashed some of the dirt up the sides to some extent. The floor itself got a heavier wash with the Dark Earth, and also Burnt Umber acrylic ink. With all of that done, I set about chipping with a brush. I've done very minimal brush chipping in the past - a StuG III probably getting 90 percent of any such chipping I've ever done. So, I felt a bit apprehensive. I was and am intending to do some fairly heavy chipping, especially on the gun, but there's something about scribbling and dotting dark paint all over a 'neat and clean' base, that scares me! This is so unlike the 'chipping by fluid, or hairspray technique.' But I bit the bullet and set about all of the exposed edges with a small brush and the Burnt Umber acrylic ink. I applied the ink in two ways - dabbing or drawing it on as a wash (with water) or dabbing and drawing it on neat. Again, I'd sometimes rub these back with a damp brush and sometimes reapply over the top. Floor first: Ammo cabinets and part way up the sides of the 'footwell' A bit more here and there, with some on the edge of the gun plaform: The Burnt Umber is very dark where applied neat, and reddish brown where diluted. I mean to apply some more neat Burnt Umber to these areas to finish them off. The floor will also get a heavier wash or two and some heavy rubbing back. With that done, the fighting compartment will be more or less finished painting-wise, and will just require the addition of some equipment. I will be making and painting the gas mask container which fits down in the corner beside the hot air vent, the MG34 that is stowed away close by and the two MP40 machine guns that are stowed either side of the rear doors. With these fixed in place, I can begin construction of the upper hull and superstructure. TFL Badder Edited December 25, 2018 by Badder 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozzy Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Nice job Badder, 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 25, 2018 Author Share Posted December 25, 2018 1 minute ago, Ozzy said: Nice job Badder, Cheers Clive, It's work on this, or watch bloomin' bake off and first dates....😋 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 26, 2018 Share Posted December 26, 2018 The weathering already looks convincing IMHO, and I think that when the assembly is complete, there will be areas that will not be seen ... Cheers Badder 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) On 12/26/2018 at 12:05 PM, FrancisGL said: The weathering already looks convincing IMHO, and I think that when the assembly is complete, there will be areas that will not be seen ... Cheers Badder Thanks Francis, I'm glad you like it. I haven't got the chipping spot on (forgive the pun) - by that I mean each individual chip could be better - but I'm happy enough to let that pass for now. I've seen how some people put a very light dot of base colour on first, then add the dark centre. That's very effective, but not something I am ready to try for this build. You are right that a lot of the interior will be blocked from view when the figures are in place, but for the purposes of this STGB I will be showing the fighting compartment empty in at least one of the photos, so I do want the chipping there to look good. Rearguards, Badder Edited December 27, 2018 by Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) Not much progress today due to having the sons and grandkids around. Yes, I am that old. But I have chipped most of the other panels. I say 'most' because somehow I managed to flip a rear door over and gave the wrong side a base coat. I will have to flip it back over the right way and start over on the correct side! Ejector pin marks on the inside of the frontal armour, but these will be hidden in the cavity formed between it and the gun mantlet when the gun is fixed in place. I AM NOT A NEAT AND TIDY MODELLER. HERE IS THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRONTAL ARMOUR PLATE. ALL OF THE SPATTER AND STAINING IS A RESULT OF WASHES CREEPING AROUND FROM THE OTHER SIDE, SPATTER CAUSED WHEN VIGOROUSLY SCRUBBING BACK OTHER PARTS IN CLOSE PROXIMITY, AND PAINT TRANSFER WHEN THE PART WAS FLIPPED OVER, OR DROPPED ONTO WET PAINT SURFACES. NONE OF IT WAS INTENTIONAL THEN. HOWEVER, THE EFFECT ISNT ACTUALLY ALL THAT BAD. I will, of course, remove it prior to applying the base coat, however, had the part already been base-coated on that side I'd have left the 'errant' paint where it was - in effect having weathered both sides of the plate for the price of one. Today I noticed that I had forgotten to paint the '....... box' field grey. So I painted the '...... box' field grey. I don't know what's in the '....... box'. Maybe there are stick grenades in there. Or ear defenders. Or a supply of Bratwurst. Possibly, something else entirely. I also added the gas mask cannister. I know what's in that. I'd have worried about there only being the one, if I had been in that vehicle and there had been a gas attack. And I came to realise that the MG34 can really only be shown in its stowed away postion as the gun and 'wall' brackets are molded in the one piece. Removing the brackets would surely damage the gun Badder, so don't you try it! The MG (already base-coated) will get the wooden bits painted and the metal bits will get a going over with a graphite stick. With that done, I think I'm ready to leave the fighting compartment and begin fixing and painting the lower hull and running gear. And whilst on that subject, I've been trying to find some Ostketten or WInterketten correct for the Nashorn. I've had mixed messages from the FRIUL website and have read discussions on the subject on other websites. No one seems to know for certain which of the wider tracks the Nashorn was fitted with, nor which model company makes tracks suitable to replicate them. If anyone knows of any reliabe source of info on the subject, I'd be most grateful for a link, or at least an idea of where to look. Thanks. TFL Badder Edited December 26, 2018 by Badder 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 (edited) I'd just like to stress that I've not done a SINGLE piece of dry-brushing in this entire build. I've said a few times that I've 'dry-brushed', but I've only said that because it's a widely understood technique which requires no further description and is very similar to what I do, barring two very significant differences. What I have done INSTEAD - and have done almost exclusively since returning to the hobby a few years ago - is what I've previously described as 'scrubbing back'. This is where I apply a wash/washes, to a base coat; darkening the overall tone of the part, deepening the 'shadowy' areas, and thus highlighting the raised/detailed areas by contrast alone, then, when dry, take a STIFF bristled brush loaded with water and scrub all over the part. Depending on how far the wash has dried, the 'scrub' will reactivate the entire wash, some of it, or none of it, If the 'scrub' reactivates all of the wash, then I can fix any issues, possibly improve it further, or leave it alone, but whatever, I let it dry again. But the idea is that I should 'catch' the wash at the right moment and reactivate some of it - rather than all of it, or none of it. With some of the wash reactivted, I find that repeated scrubbing (firmly, and with fresh water) can lighten the tone of a panel if I wish, but also remove the 'stain' from the raised details, edges, and corners of the parts. In other words, I can 'clean' the 'stain' of the wash from the raised details and expose the underlying base colour again. This is, in effect, the same as dry-brushing, but achieved by firm very-wet-brushing. TFL Badder Edited December 26, 2018 by Badder 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrancisGL Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hi Badder, Despite some mistakes (wrong side), it seems to be on the right track. I've looked at the Osketen, and there seems to be not much about that. I put 2 links (I do not know if it will be correct), one with a photo gallery reference,of one real (maybe you watch it) and another with correct tracks? but unfortunately at 1/72 scale ... http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry_kiyatkin/nashorn/index.php?Page=1 https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=nashorn+tracks* Cheers Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 2 hours ago, FrancisGL said: Hi Badder, Despite some mistakes (wrong side), it seems to be on the right track. I've looked at the Osketen, and there seems to be not much about that. I put 2 links (I do not know if it will be correct), one with a photo gallery reference,of one real (maybe you watch it) and another with correct tracks? but unfortunately at 1/72 scale ... http://www.primeportal.net/tanks/dmitry_kiyatkin/nashorn/index.php?Page=1 https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=nashorn+tracks* Cheers Badder Thanks for those links Francis. I'd already seen the real Nashorn featured in the walk around, but had a closer look at it today. It is interesting to see what Tamiya left out, or put in rather overscale. but still I think their Nashorn stands up well in comparison. Even the ammo cabinets look pretty good. The PE ones I had before, were much thinner, and probably TOO thin! I did see the Nashorn in winter camo in the other link.... with the winterketten tracks. That's the look I'm after. I'm wondering if I can use Ostketten/winterketten desgined for the PzIV and StuG III. On the Friul site, they say that the Nashorn used the same wider tracks, but the reference number they give takes you back to the staandard tracks. I shall keep looking. Thanks again for taking the time to try and help me out. Rearguards, Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlaStix Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hi Badder. Hope you are well. Very impressive painting and weathering effects again. Hope you manage to to sort out some suitable tracks. Kind regards, Stix 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxbat Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 If I'm reading the post right, Modelkasten do Winterketten and Ostketten suitable for the Nashorn. Winterketten Ostketten They're in the reference thread at the top of the page - probably best to double check coz I've been wrong before. Andy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 4 hours ago, Foxbat said: If I'm reading the post right, Modelkasten do Winterketten and Ostketten suitable for the Nashorn. Winterketten Ostketten They're in the reference thread at the top of the page - probably best to double check coz I've been wrong before. Andy Ah, thanks Andy, I did see those, and wasn't sure if the Nashorn had been fitted with them, or not. But looking at the period photos and the diagrams in your link, they do look the same. I will have another look when i'm fully awake. Rearguards, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 NOTE TO SELF AND ANYONE ELSE WHO IS INTERESTED: ATL-04 hollow horn. 1941-44 ATL-05 Solid horn. 1942-45 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 I really like how the paint layers are building up badder, there's a great look coming on there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 Work hasn't stalled, I'm just painting the small fiddly bits of equipment that are dotted around the fighting compartment. I'm not good at small fiddly bits. It's my fingers dontcha know. And I'm going to have a go at the 88mm rounds as well. I had set my mind on buying some real brass shells, but after seeing the prices they can do a really, long, hard, hike! The kit's rounds aren't ace, having seam lines, and the empty cases aren't hollowed out at all - having just a solid flat end. Last time I made a bit of a mess with the brass - brush painted with a lacquer, rather than an acrylic, or enamel. It was the right colour but the stuff behaved erratically. I hid the worst rounds at the backs of the cabinets. I drilled out the used shell cases and will have to do the same again here. I may have binned the idea of buying brass ammo, but I'm still looking to buy Ostketten or Winterketten. I am in the process of narrowing down the track type and the manufacturer. Photo update of some small fiddly bits later tonight. TFL Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 12 hours ago, Hewy said: I really like how the paint layers are building up badder, there's a great look coming on there Thanks Glynn, Yeah, I'm treating this like I treat my buildings! Paint, add some effects, paint over, strip back, re-paint, add some different effects, cut it in half and modify with plaster casts..... We will have to see what happens with the winter camo. Rearguards, Badder 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 (edited) Okay.... . STANDARD TRACKS for PzIII-IV and variants, including StuGIII, Hummel, Nashorn, amongst others. Have a look at FRIUL's ATL-04 Early type - open horns. ATL-05. Late type - solid horns. WINTERKETTEN TRACKS FOR PZIII-IV AND VARIANTS. If building the Nashorn, or Hummel it's probably best to go for the WINTERKETTEN tracks rather than the OSTKETTEN. Photos of the Nashorn wearing WINTERKETTEN do exist. As yet, I've not found photos showing them wearing OSTKETTEN. The Hummel is also shown wearing wider tracks, but I haven't had a closer look to see which type they are. 1: MANUFACTURER: KAIZEN Kit code: Kz-Pz-400W Plastic. Separate track links, each with the extension - moulded as a single piece. Ice cleats moulded separately with enough in the kit to add a cleat to alternate track links. I watched a review and build video on YouTube and have to say these tracks look absolutely fantastic. Although each link is attached to the sprue by 5 gates, the gates are all very narrow and join on the edges of the links, where they are very easy to clean up. The detailing is superb, and there are no ejector pin marks ANYWHERE on the links. 2. MANUFACTURER: FRIUL Kit code: ATL-19 WINTERKETTEN Metal. More expensive. More easily available.. Edited December 29, 2018 by Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 Those kaizen one look like hell on earth, if you choose em good luck, there's a video review on scalemates😡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 1 minute ago, Hewy said: Those kaizen one look like hell on earth, if you choose em good luck, there's a video review on scalemates😡 Hi Glynn, Sorry, I was editing the post you just read. If you read it now, you'll see that I also watched a video, and I have to disagree with your comment here! I haven't seen a video reviewing/building the Fruil's, but the Kaizens look excellent to me, and absolutely are 'workable' - NOT that that is a consideration for me except for one crucial matter... and that is that I can go ahead with my build and know that I can fit the Kaizens AFTER the model has been fully constructed. I'm not sure if I could do that with the Fruils. But even if I can, the price difference puts me off. Again there's very minimal clean up of the Kaisens required - just removing the tiny gate marks that might be left after removal from the sprues. There are no ejector pin marks anywhere. Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Kaizen WINTERKETTEN review/build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhq3-nidshU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 I suppose those bronco tracks did it for me on the sherman , I'd like some that are already in separate parts, ready to be assembled, or it's the rubber bands 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 @Hewy could you provide a link for the Kaizen video review? I've tried searching for it on Scalemates, but I can't find it. I'd like to see what the 'nightmare' is? Personally, I have no fears of spending a week just making the tracks! Cheers, Badder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badder Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Just now, Hewy said: I suppose those bronco tracks did it for me on the sherman , I'd like some that are already in separate parts, ready to be assembled, or it's the rubber bands Ah, okay. I can understand that. I thought you were suggesting that the review was saying 'they are a nightmare' I've only ever used rubber bands, so I don't have any previous experience to put me off. But, I do have patience if I think the outcome will be better than the normal fare. As I said earlier, I wouldn't upgrade to standard tracks. But the wider tracks, yes, I WANT THEM AND I WANT THEM NOWWWWWWWW! DROOL! Rearguards Badder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted December 29, 2018 Share Posted December 29, 2018 https://youtu.be/4gLVPp0zXRY Think it might be the same video you've watched badder, I might add my interpretation of hell on earth might be another's idea of paradise 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now