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PACHYDERM PACKS A PUNCH. FINISHED?PHOTO HEAVY p22


Badder

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9 hours ago, the South African said:

Cant tell you if crews would have dropped them. But I do know that guns have "shot" packages. At certain intervals they get certain components refitted and/or replaced. I would imagine that a gun that big would become a chore to remove in the field and that in light of this it would then make sense to rather drop the sides for maintenance. 

 

Regards:

Shaun 

Now why didn't I think of that? That makes perfect sense and must be the main reason. 

 

Rearguards

Badder

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10 hours ago, PlaStix said:

Looks like you are progressing really well with this Badder. Looking good! :thumbsup:

Kind regards,

Stix

Cheers Stix.It's rare that I get this far into a build without putting any paint on at all, but I'm trying the more 'modern' approach - at least, to the furthest point I dare.

I don't think I'll ever be happy to construct an entire vehicle and leave the painting until last.

So, there's a few little pieces I'll be painting 'off the model' and will only fix them in place when the weathering of the vehicle takes place.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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I've added a few more bits and bobs to the side panel interiors, but have left off fragile parts and those parts which need to be painted separately and fixed  in place only at the vehicle's weathering stage.

kg0AUdH.jpg

 

Above: Note the MG mount left-most along the top of the side panel. There's a raised annular surface around the hole. (a bit blurry) Eduard would have you replace this with PE. Yeah, right.

 

The MG is stored beneath the ammo box 'basket' on the RHS. The MG will be painted later and will be one of the last parts to be fixed in place. I may mount it on its swivel arm though.

nCjmDrq.jpg

Side panels and floor still only dry-fitted.

 

 

I've also added the gun travel lock cable 'pulley' at the end of the cable tube, and a couple of brackets for the tow cable.

8lAoOR8.jpg

 

I fancy making the ammo cabinets next, so that's what I'm going to do. I am thinking about buying after-market HE and AP rounds, because the kit's shells aren't the best in the world - the used shell casings aren't even hollowed out.

 

TFL

Badder

 

 

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Re part E2 - may I suggest for next time that a thin sliver of heavy aluminium foil be used? Easy to cut to size, easy to curve, easy to glue with a small dab of cyano, and more to scale. If a mounting tab is needed, that's easy to incorporate as well. If foil and superglue is a trial too far, do the same from a thin piece of styrene strip.

 

There was something else I had intended to comment on/praise/add a muddled thought about, but even after rereading the whole thread I'm jiggered if I can remember what it was! Never mind, if it comes to me I'll add another post, because I'm annoying like that.

 

 

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29 minutes ago, Rob G said:

Re part E2 - may I suggest for next time that a thin sliver of heavy aluminium foil be used? Easy to cut to size, easy to curve, easy to glue with a small dab of cyano, and more to scale. If a mounting tab is needed, that's easy to incorporate as well. If foil and superglue is a trial too far, do the same from a thin piece of styrene strip.

 

There was something else I had intended to comment on/praise/add a muddled thought about, but even after rereading the whole thread I'm jiggered if I can remember what it was! Never mind, if it comes to me I'll add another post, because I'm annoying like that.

 

 

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the suggestion. Thin plasticard was something I had considered using as a replacement, but in the end I figured the original part was okay. There's just a small 'nick' where the piece snapped, but I will fill that.

Anyway, if I replaced one part with a thinner material, or more accurate piece of PE, then I'd feel obliged to replace the lot, and having seen today's prices for the 2 PE sets, I wasn't going to go down that line.

I decided at the outset that this Nashorn would be mostly OOB, but that I might go for after-market tracks and shells, and maybe scratch a canvas cover (rolled up) for the fighting compartment.

After all the work adding extra armour to my Sherman Easy Eight in the first armour STGB, this Nashorn is provingquite relaxing - and a lot faster to build!

 

If you do remember the other advice/issue/comment, I'd be interested to read what it was!

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Yet more excellent progress Badder - looking excellent too! With regards the painting - I must admit I'd be trailing waaaayyyy behind you at this stage in terms of construction. I'd have been painting loads of this kit before assembly - but then again I wouldn't have the advantage of using an airbrush. Looking forward to seeing more progress.

Kind regards,

Stix

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6 hours ago, the South African said:

As ever mr Badder you move along quicker tha lightning and extremely neat too. Liking the build a lot up to now. 

 

Regards:

Shaun 

Shaun,

I'd be a lot quicker if I didn't keep falling asleep during 'rests' from modelling when I come on here and comment on others work, and answer questions on my own thread! I reckon falling asleep has reduced my progress by half.

I have diabetes type 1 to thank for that.

As for the build, it's all pretty easy. The gun is more of a challenge, but with the Nashorn I think the greatest challenge is the painting.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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3 hours ago, mahavelona said:

You are inspiring me to hunt one of these out in the model shop myself - this is a great build!

Hi Mahavelona.

Loving the Jackdaw!

 

It is a great kit, with lots of options for a diorama - in ambush mode, firing on the enemy, in a convoy, being re-supplied, and, a great model for being wrecked (as in knocked out)

I do fancy building another one in the future, pushed off the road into a ditch after it was 'hit in the ammo cabinet' and blew apart.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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15 minutes ago, PlaStix said:

Yet more excellent progress Badder - looking excellent too! With regards the painting - I must admit I'd be trailing waaaayyyy behind you at this stage in terms of construction. I'd have been painting loads of this kit before assembly - but then again I wouldn't have the advantage of using an airbrush. Looking forward to seeing more progress.

Kind regards,

Stix

Hi Stix,

The biggest advantage with the airbrush, in THIS build, is:  I can spray the base coat, then a rough 3 colour camo, (not having to be too fussy) then whitewash overt it. None of those processes would take long.

 

Very sleepy now, so probably no progress until later.

 

 

Rearguards

Badder

 

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Good bit of building up to yet badder, it looks to fit really snugly, which is always a bonus, at this rate you'll be done and dusted next weekend, and on to the job of  cheering everyone else over the line, I  think stix has just about secretly finished his too , and he's going to drip feed us pre-done  progress reports over the next couple of months to string it out😋

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25 minutes ago, Hewy said:

Good bit of building up to yet badder, it looks to fit really snugly, which is always a bonus, at this rate you'll be done and dusted next weekend, and on to the job of  cheering everyone else over the line, I  think stix has just about secretly finished his too , and he's going to drip feed us pre-done  progress reports over the next couple of months to string it out😋

 

 

IF I do finish this Nashorn in a couple of weeks, I have a StuGIV with PE and PE  zimmerit in the stash! 

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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The ammo cabinet then:

Last time I used the Eduard PE 'Ammo boxes and floor panel' set. I found the boxes very awkward, with the 'shelves' very confusing in respect of construction and the 'bending order'. The instruction sheet was very vague and confusing and I had no idea what the finished things were supposed to look like. Ultimately I messed them up and reverted to the kit parts, except for the 'shutters'.

 

This time I'm using all of the kit's parts, which come on two sprues like this:

qhQNmnn.jpg

 

The 'shutters' in the kit are molded in the closed position at the RHS of photo below.

IizHGzZ.jpg

 

If one wishes to show them in the open position, one has to slice the 3 panels apart and fold them up oneself. It would have been nice to have had 3 separate panels to start off with. Surely it would have been easier that way? 3 panels for those who wish to show the shutters open, and anyone wishing to show them closed can just glue them onto the cabinet.

 

Anyway, there are pin marks again, but none will be seen.

 

 

fUjrYu6.jpg

 

With the shutter sliced up and folded up onto the top of the cabinet:

ATNp87w.jpg

Cabinet dry fitted.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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Well sir, you have made commendable progress. I am glad to see you are not too over burdened by the sink holes and ejector pin marks.  Really like the choice to convert the shutters to open, makes a much nicer view.

 re: the figures, in light of the "no gloves", just paint the hands "glove color" and you should be OK.

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Prop Duster said:

re: the figures, in light of the "no gloves", just paint the hands "glove color" and you should be OK.

 

Nooooooooo Steve, NOOOOOOOO!

Their gloves would have been quite chunky (assuming they had any at all) So painting their hands 'glove colour' wouldn't look right. And considering the fact that there are a few hands which are already well undersized, that'd make things look even odder.

But no worries, I'm sure I have a few spare gloved hands in the er..... spares box.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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A conscientious work so far, coming along nicely, this time nothing can fail.:deadhorse:
The PEs can be a headache, and once painted, who knows what material is under ?, I, for my part, I will only change the pieces that are obviously better, or do not include the kit ...:popcorn:

Cheers Badder 👍

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3 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

A conscientious work so far, coming along nicely, this time nothing can fail.:deadhorse:
The PEs can be a headache, and once painted, who knows what material is under ?, I, for my part, I will only change the pieces that are obviously better, or do not include the kit ...:popcorn:

Cheers Badder 👍

Hi Francis,

I'm glad you're now in the PzIV STGB.

If you win the trophy I will not remind there's one on next time!:rofl:

 

I would have used the PE for some parts, but the cost of one set (for the ammunition boxes) is around £18 and the other around £40. That's just not worth it. The Nashorn isn't festooned with things like headlamp, tail-light and periscope brush guards, tool clamps, etc anyway. The most 'worthy' pieces of PE are the replacement ammo boxes (cabinets) but as I said earlier, I had problems with the shelving last time and suspect I would have had the same issues again.

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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Okay, I'm at the stage where I am now having to tackle some more pin marks.

Up until now I've been able to remove those that would be visible, remove some that would only be visible with the use of an endoscope, leave some that will be covered up, and leave some that would not be visible due to their position.

On that last point, I've shown photos of the pin marks on the inside panels of the frontal armour (superstructure) and the inside of the gun mantlet, but the truth is these cannot be seen as these parts are tilted backwards and the the line of sight is blocked.

 

Now though, I am faced with the rear panel and doors.

 

The inside of the rear panel has a total of 12 pin marks. None are deep, a couple are flush and a couple protrude very slightly. Still, ALL will have to be dealt with. The doors themselves have two pinmarks each, and again there is no avoiding their removal. (Unless I were to drape clothing or canvas covers/camo nets etc over them!)

 

I am in the process of removing those along the bottom of the panel (six in total) Luckily these fall in the 'very slightly protruding' or 'as near as makes no odds flush' catagories.

 

Qjx34GU.jpg

 

 

yWqxJqy.jpg

 

When I've removed these six I am going to try a little experiment.....

 

TFL

Badder

 

 

 

 

 

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I've been removing the pin marks whilst watching TV - only occasionally looking down to see how I'm progessing.

In other words, I've spent next to no time at all getting rid of the pin marks!

 

I used a small lady's nail emery board. I would have used a large lady's nail emery board, but she was in a bad mood and told me to get Paxo'd.

I specifically used the 'fine grade' side of the board, augmented (BM 'Word of the Day' trophy winner 22.12.18) with toothpaste - the thinking being that toothpaste is mildy abrasive. Having said that, I think the white toothpastes are more abrasive than the blue stuff I used here - but whatever, it helped.

 

 

In the photo below, I've removed the marks along the bottom of the panel and those up the side. It turned out that they were all very slightly protruding, so removal was easy.

p8IT6o3.jpg

 

The topmost marks turned out to be slightly sunken - I couldn't tell this until the sanding was started.

MRzC8KR.jpg

 

So, I've applied several drops of liquid poly to the uppermost marks, letting each application dry before adding the next. This should fill the imprint, eventually, and allow me to sand them away. In the photo below, you can clearly see these 'troublesome' pin marks. There are two smaller pinmarks in the top left and right corners of the plate, but these will be hidden beneath corner braces.

o0NXWtg.jpg

 

I'll remove the topmost pinmarks tomorrow and then tackle those on the doors.

 

ONCE THE DOORS ARE CLEANED I CAN PAINT THE FIGHTING COMPARTMENT COMPONENTS AND START GLUING THE THING TOGETHER!

 

TFL

Badder.

 

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Come on baby, light my fire!

 

The doors then.

 

 

I will be showing my Nashorn in firing mode, and as such it was customary for the crew to leave the rear doors open so they could dispose of empty shell cases.

With the doors open, these are the surfaces open to scrutiny:

z9ufEEX.jpg

Ejector pin marks again....

But fear not.  Studying the photos, it might be guessed that all of the marks are of the 'standing proud' variety.  They are, and so it was a matter of a couple of minutes to sand each one and remove it.

 

2WL9PDP.jpg

 

 

The last remaining components for the interior (apart from things like gun mounts, the MG, binoculars etc) are 4 internal bracing panels. Here are two of them:

ys0IacK.jpg

 

Pin marks - not so critical this time - but they will be removed.

 

So, the painting of the interior's components will commence this afternoon.

( I won't be adding the smaller details such as the MG, MG ammo boxes, the MG mounts, periscopes etc until the end of the build )

 

With those components given a base coat, and further treatments, I can then start painting the rest of the vehicle, from the road wheels up and then glue and paint the upper superstructure exterior.

 

TFL

Badder

 

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  • Badder changed the title to PACHYDERM PACKS A PUNCH. interior ready for paint
20 hours ago, Badder said:

Hi Francis,

I'm glad you're now in the PzIV STGB.

If you win the trophy I will not remind there's one on next time!:rofl:

 

Hi Badder,


I am also happy to be on board. Thanks for the warning, friend, you do not have to worry, your skills are above mine, this time I did not even know there was a trophy 🏆(if you do not mention it, I do not realize it either, and more, I do not know what it is ... lol), but there is no fear, with the amount of mates doing PzIVs, I have not even a half chance of winning anything, because there are many heavyweights in the art of modeling, known and unknown, with superior quality kits to mine.
I know you're kidding me  :rofl2:and you do not care about the trophy (and it's not that we do not like to win something from time to time ... :whistle:lol), but yes, take the kit forward in the best possible way, which I have proposed with mine, but without encouragement otherwise, because this is the "professional league" ... lol.

 

It seems that the pieces you are referring to are not as good as they should have been, I would not have thought about Tamiya, besides being a very expensive IMHO kit, but with all that preparatory work, they will be better than good.

I did not know about toothpaste (for that, of course ...:tooth:lol), and it seems as well you say, that blue is softer than white, I imagine that because its texture resembles gel and white more cream.
If I used to clean metals and to remove the sticky residue that remains of a price tag in a rigid plastic box, without being scratched, baking with water, as a "paste", with patience, it ends up disappearing, and without scratches.
It may be useful if you have not tried it.
Another option that I use for those circular marks inwards, is a bit of liquid poly with the applicator brush, and once dry, sand lightly, leaving the "step" even.

 

Cheers Badder :santa:

 

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28 minutes ago, FrancisGL said:

It seems that the pieces you are referring to are not as good as they should have been, I would not have thought about Tamiya, besides being a very expensive IMHO kit, but with all that preparatory work, they will be better than good. 

I did not know about toothpaste (for that, of course ...:tooth:lol), and it seems as well you say, that blue is softer than white, I imagine that because its texture resembles gel and white more cream.
If I used to clean metals and to remove the sticky residue that remains of a price tag in a rigid plastic box, without being scratched, baking with water, as a "paste", with patience, it ends up disappearing, and without scratches.
It may be useful if you have not tried it.
Another option that I use for those circular marks inwards, is a bit of liquid poly with the applicator brush, and once dry, sand lightly, leaving the "step" even.

 

Cheers Badder :santa:

 

Hi Francis,

We can argue all night and day about who is 'the better modeller', just as we could all argue over who is the better, Rembrandt or Van Gough. We all have our own tastes. Personally, I think you are better than me because you've produced lots of fantastic AFVs where as I have only produced one so far! 😁

Of course, I was joking about the trophy (I'm not aware that there is one) but it's great to have as many people as possible taking part in these AFV GBs , and if the 'lure' of a 'trophy', even if it's ficticious, brings those extra people in, then great! 😉

 

I will repeat what I said earlier about the ejector pin marks..... they are there, but most protrude rather than sink, quite a few will be covered up, or just aren't visible when the model is finished, and the remainder are easy to remove. Only those two top left and top right of the rear panel are sunken and require filling. I did use liquid poly to fill them. I confess I also scraped some ultra thin slivers of plastic into the poly and turned that into a gunge, pressing that into the depression as well. I ended up with a raised filling which was then sanded down flat and level. Problem solved.

Apart from that, honestly, the kit IS superb and the pin marks are not really a problem.

 

Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones.

Rearguards,

Badder

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1 hour ago, Badder said:

Hi Francis,

We can argue all night and day about who is 'the better modeller', just as we could all argue over who is the better, Rembrandt or Van Gough. We all have our own tastes. Personally, I think you are better than me because you've produced lots of fantastic AFVs where as I have only produced one so far! 😁

Of course, I was joking about the trophy (I'm not aware that there is one) but it's great to have as many people as possible taking part in these AFV GBs , and if the 'lure' of a 'trophy', even if it's ficticious, brings those extra people in, then great! 😉

 

I will repeat what I said earlier about the ejector pin marks..... they are there, but most protrude rather than sink, quite a few will be covered up, or just aren't visible when the model is finished, and the remainder are easy to remove. Only those two top left and top right of the rear panel are sunken and require filling. I did use liquid poly to fill them. I confess I also scraped some ultra thin slivers of plastic into the poly and turned that into a gunge, pressing that into the depression as well. I ended up with a raised filling which was then sanded down flat and level. Problem solved.

Apart from that, honestly, the kit IS superb and the pin marks are not really a problem.

 

Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones.

Rearguards,

Badder

The scoring is not objective, because you are doing a macro-diorama, I can not even imagine the multitasking work that entails and the planning of where everything will go or figure ... while I am a turtle, increasingly slow, " search of lost perfection "(was not it, the Indiana Jones movie? ... lol), I never find it ...

 

Best wishes for you and yours on these holydays too. :santa:

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3 hours ago, FrancisGL said:

" search of lost perfection "(was not it, the Indiana Jones movie? ... lol), I never find it ...

 

Very nearly 'Lost in Translation',  but I think you meant 'Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade: The Holy Grail'.

 

 

Rearguards,

Badder

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