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1/24 Tamiya Porsche 911 gt2 (993)


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First 2 upper arms done.

Other pair are pretty much the same except cut into side of frame rather than underneath.

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Anyone got a nice air cooled flat 6 twin turbo engine laying around anywhere?

Tamiya only give you the bottom half of it. :D  

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There's an air cooled resin flat 6 listed here, although it's not quite right for a 993. I seem to recall the Fujimi "Enthusiast" series include engines - but again there is not one for a 993. I've a feeling the only one I could find is for the old 3.2 - which may well be the original source for that resin. Fundamentally the block is the same but there'd be a fair bit of work to do around the intakes and exhaust. And longer/different shaped gearbox of course. Other option may be the Tamiya 959 engine as a starting point?

 

Might be worth taking a look on Porsche's site for the "E-Katalog" (illustrated pdf parts catalogues for most models). Whilst not dimensioned drawings, there are an awful lot of useful diagrams.

 

Hope this helps. Keep up the good work!

 

Kirk

 

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Thanks Kirk, and that does indeed help. I was toying with the idea of hinging the boot but obviously that would need the right top half of the engine. And the headache of working out where to connect hinges. 

So my friend will just have to settle for a shut boot and some cool springy suspension bits he can play with. :D

 

The 959 might just end up as a project for myself further down the line. 

I have the countach 5000qv and Ferrari 288 gto in the cupboard. They'd make a nice little group of 3. :)

 

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Great. The Fujimi kit does have separate boot and engine lids (which is why I bought one ages ago intending to kit-bash into a detailed 964). Whilst by no means easy, this allows you to sacrifice elements of the 'sealed up' kit. Only problem is that these don't appear to be in production right now and some of the prices I've seen on eBay are eye-watering.

Given what you've done so far, engine lid hinges shouldn't be too hard if you do decide to go the razor saw route.

 

Good luck. 🙂 

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Well the first try at joining the top half to the bottom half didn't go well!!

So not well I had to make a whole fresh top half. But it did make me ponder on alternative ways to have less joints. 

And this was the winning idea. Seemed logical to form at least one pair of the uprights from the flat frame piece. So sliced into the square tube and bent it up.

If this go works well I'll be back soon when all 4 uprights are sorted!! :D  

 

Mostly been doing one side then taking some pics of the opposite side. Hope it's mostly making sense about which bits are which. :)  

 

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And the new upper frame

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 And about to attempt the soldering of the first pair of uprights. Bending them up has certainly made them easier to line up neatly.

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Well done for persevering.

 

Have you ever come across Gerald Wingrove's books, "The complete car modeller" Book1 and Book 2? I only mention this because Book 2 (I think) has a section on soldering and the use of solders with progressively lower melting points when constructing sections requiring a number of adjacent joins that may not be made simultaneously.

Don't be fooled into thinking I've tried this: for me, it's just a very good read but I expect it may be of practical use to you?

 

Also, how big are those pivot pins? I recently bought some "M3.5 tubular rivets" on eBay that look like they might make your life easier. A quick search suggested they go down to at least M0.9 (i.e. 0.9mm diameter center section).

 

Cheers,

 

Kirk

PS/ Wingrove is a genius who clearly makes models using witchcraft and optical illusion. And a lathe.

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To be perfectly honest I don't normally read books but some modelling ones would be a good idea if any friends ask what I want for christmas or birthdays. So I shall make a note of those thanks. :) 

 

005700590060

The bottom pin is 1.5mm and I think these pics have just made my mind up on attempting new hubs!!  

 

The full size version has another control arm that fits behind the bottom point of shock absorber.

Knowing it should be there and then leaving it off would drive me nuts, even though this model isn't even for me. :D  

 

p.s. luv a bit of witchcraft and optical illusions but now and again I do wish I had a lathe. 

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From this.......

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To this......

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I did find a diagram online showing all 5 suspension links and the back of the hub so will be having a go at that lot next.

I've got 3mm, 4mm & 5mm round brass tubes to play with for the hubs and will probably replace the upper arms with some of the 1.6mm square. :)  

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  • nikkita katana changed the title to 1/24 Tamiya Porsche 911 gt2 (993)

The kit does have the other cross brace and 5th link but doesn't quite meet up to where it's meant to go. Making a replacement using same pivot points but slightly altering the angle would be fine for me though.

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But I should add as standard 1/24 scale kits go the details are rather good and the bits I've looked at so far do go together nicely.

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Iirc, that missing link is the really clever one that induces understeer by steering the loaded wheel outwards slightly. I suppose its meant to line up with/be attached to that casting on the upright(?). I wonder how the anti-roll bar attaches? Normally there's a small drop link. Might have to follow my own advice and take a look in the parts catalogue.

 

I also have a link somewhere to a site called "The Jackal's Forge" run by a chap with a 993 C2 that he systematically upgraded to RS spec - with lots of pictures of maintenance work on the way that should be good reference for you. Let me know if you can't find it and I'll dig out the link.

 

Kirk

Addendum: Here is the Porsche parts catalogue page. You want the 993, clearly. Then check out pages 267 and 270. Sure enough, there is a drop link from the arb to the upright. I found it interesting that the 2 main upper arms (parts 4 & 5) attach at separate positions on the upright, and the control arm (3) sits outboard of the lug on the upright. And page 294: mmm, brakes. You're going to need that lathe...

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Read online somewhere mentioned the rear bar can adjust the toe settings ,and yes it attaches where the shock joins that curved part off the hub. On my little version it's going to be essential to prevent the hub twisting when the spring's depressed. And I did also find a picture of the end of the roll bar that attaches via a small upright link onto a clamp around the shock absorber so I better think of adding that too!!

Said in an earlier post I've never really been a fan of 911's but I'm definitely now a fan of the engineering on the back end of this one. 

 

The original plan was just to have working suspension by making replacement parts based loosely on the kit parts. And fingers crossed I seem to be on the right track for that. And have found enough reference pics online to help understand roughly how it works and needs to fit. If it ends up looking like a proper scale version then that would exceed any of my original hopes. But I'm already having so much fun it's been well worth the effort. :) 

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36 minutes ago, Kirk said:

Wash your mouth out! :D

 

Better pass me some soap.

Sadly for Porsche it took them a long time to make a car I could truly fall in love with, and that's the 918. :D 

 

Loving that exploded view of parts on the Jackals Forge. Suddenly I'm feeling taking at least 5 days to make most of the parts is not so bad after all.

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Yayy, some hubs are done. And made a piece of channel to fit the rear links to although it looks like they'll need to be  a bit longer.

Just need to sort the pieces that joins hubs to shocks to rear links and make an anti roll bar and maybe sort a couple of little tweaks on an upper arm or 2.

 

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I bet that feels good having it all fitted and in position.

 

I have to admit that I couldn't even contemplate trying something like this. Not just because of the obvious effort and skill involved, but also because if I did manage to get working suuspension to this standard I wouldn't be able to resist bouncing the suspension. And that would leave fingerprints on the paint, which would need polishing off - I'd never stop waxing and polishing the thing!;)

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1 hour ago, Spiny said:

if I did manage to get working suspension to this standard I wouldn't be able to resist bouncing the suspension. And that would leave fingerprints on the paint, which would need polishing off - I'd never stop waxing and polishing the thing!;)

 

Haha yeah me too but this one isn't for me so my friend will be responsible for wiping off his own fingerprints. :)

 

Since I never took a photo of the parts when I made them and one was in bits today (intentionally), here's a picture.

The macro lens certainly shows they're nowhere near the standard of some of the work on this site but then I'm pretty much just larking about with some small files an a cordless drill.

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And with temporary fixing to rear link so I can work out how to attach to the hub.

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Your 'larking about' is showing some excellent results.  :)  Your 1:1 skills are evident as you've made the adjustment to small scale work. This is far more than a 1/24 street car replica usually gets.

 

May I suggest you consider bringing your new-found model skills (you ARE a fast learner) up to 1/8 scale where:

A. It's easier to physically work the parts.

B. Even greater detail and accuracy is possible.

C. It's tons more rewarding to showcase your talent.

 

Although challenging, a Pocher classic will give you a couple of year's worth of very rewarding work. :devil:

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10 minutes ago, Codger said:

Your 'larking about' is showing some excellent results.  :)  Your 1:1 skills are evident as you've made the adjustment to small scale work. This is far more than a 1/24 street car replica usually gets.

 

May I suggest you consider bringing your new-found model skills (you ARE a fast learner) up to 1/8 scale

 

 

Thank you :) 

The 1:1 skills have been used to replace parts such as lower suspension arms before (with instructions and sometimes some actual assistance from Dad and any necessary Haynes manuals) but never anything as complicated as this multi-link complexity.

This one has been quite a learning curve as each piece leads to showing where the next piece is either wrong/needs slight adjustment or slots pretty much into place. Certainly been lots of trial and error. Wasn't originally planning to get this carried away but every time I open up the box of a 1/24 kit the mouldings of shock absorbers just stick out like sore thumbs to me. So decided to try and make something that looks right and that idea snowballed into why not try and make something that actually works. And then the ridiculous notion of making as much as possible work creeps in and well, what can you do but give it a go? :D  

The really amazing builds/restorations from others on here have seemed to inspire me to see what I can and can't do.

So have to say a massive thank you to all those that have made me want to push myself to try and achieve something that little bit different. 

 

And I would love to work on something bigger but my budget rarely stretches to more than the occasional £20-£30 for kits. I do have the Tamiya Lotus 72 in 1/12 scale that might get started next year and could well end up with a few little upgrades. That one I picked up fairly cheaply cos the tub had been started and it has a wheel hub missing, but I can probably figure a way of sorting that out now. 

I actually made the Tamiya Lotus 78 also in 1/12 back in the mid 80's and that's still my favourite car I've ever put together. Sadly too many moves wasn't very kind to it and don't have it any more but would love to do another of those. 

 

I keep an occasional eye open for any larger bargains but small scale is enough to keep me amused.

 

 

 

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7 hours ago, Codger said:

May I suggest you consider bringing your new-found model skills (you ARE a fast learner) up to 1/8 scale where:

 

Trying to get everyone on the forum up to 1/8 scale eh Codger? 

 

I might actually try it once though, if you keep persisting 😆

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9 minutes ago, harveyb258 said:

 

Certainly is, Nikki!!! :clap2:

You're improving at a rapid rate, keep having fun.

Thanks Harvey, I think you know your thread has been one of the inspiring ones for me :) 

And thank you to everyone else with all the lovely compliments and kind words of encouragement, If I hadn't signed up to here I certainly wouldn't be having this much fun making stuff.

But I'll still say for now I'm only improving the bodges to a better standard!!

The hubs should have been 6mm but as I only had 5mm tube that got solder added and just filed a lot, they may get a bit more of a tidy up yet. The backing was just 3 lengths of 2mm square joined together to form a plate. Have definitely improved a lot on the soldering, the new iron was certainly a wise investment. 

(and when it all goes wrong the flame thrower is perfect for getting it all apart to start again)

 

Still making beginners errors though cos I managed to put them on the wrong way round before filing the little grooves the discs slot onto.

Took a while to notice that one.  :D 

And maybe today one of the upper arm fixing points will get chopped out and reset at a better angle. And still have to figure out some better fixing pins for all the arms. So with any luck it could all still end up a bit neater since it's now all fairly simple to disassemble and polish up before it gets near the airbrush. 

 

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Picked the simplest option and just added a straight bit of 2mm square tube to the bottom of the hub.

Just need to tidy up a bit, pin all the joints neatly with 1mm brass tube and fix the broken solder joint on the rear channel.

Oh and cut grooves on right sides of hubs for the discs to sit into to.

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And how it looks on and the right way up. 
Tyre's just inside the arch so that's an MOT pass in my book.

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Did manage to break the pin off the inside of the wheel though. Which now makes me think of some threaded bar and a single nut racing fitting. :D 

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