Homerlovesbeer Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Amazing work Nikki! Great job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 5 hours ago, nikkita katana said: bit it's ended up better than the previous go. They do...….it's the scratchbuilder's curse, I'm afraid. Everything you do, you know you can do better....ad infinitum. Keep on pushing yourself through the safety net at every opportunity, Nikki....you won't regret it. Merry Crimbo! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 No safety net here, no need when sitting on the floor. Fire extinguisher is not too far away though. Regrets maybe, but there's none to do with modelling. And a Merry Christmas to you Harvey And to everyone else 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted December 25, 2018 Share Posted December 25, 2018 Welcome to the brass maniac club Nikita! Good job , and in 1/24 scale, not easy... Dan. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 On 25/12/2018 at 16:49, PROPELLER said: Welcome to the brass maniac club and in 1/24 scale, not easy... Dan. Thank you Dan, I won't be making any claims that any of the brass bits are to the correct scale though. Somewhere close is just fine by me. Brief update on not that much to be honest but I had a re-make on the hubs, this time starting with the centres and then adding less of the 2mm square for the arms and shock fixing points. Should finish up a lot more compact and neater than first go after the excess is ground off. And upper and lower arms should finish up closer to parallel, which seems to be how they appear in any reference pics I've found. And, in the absence of useful sized brass, I got some .25 & .75mm plasticard to have a go at some new vented discs. Would be nice if I can chop the calipers off the kit ones and have the discs spin when wheel is turned. Beginning to like using the dremel a lot so that could turn out fine or not and everything gets chewed up!! I don't think there's any chance of neatly drilling the discs so will go for grooved instead. The .75 had little notches filed out and then sandwiched between two bits of 0.25mm plasticard. Works on the first try out, just need to get 4 looking similar enough now. Probably end up with 12 grooves and 18 vents. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 (edited) Not sure about the GT2, but the vast majority of Porsche rear discs include a raised section (kind "top hat") which acts as the handbrake lining. However, iirc, some of the racing cars have separate floating discs, the slimmer hat part of which does NOT house the handbrake (which instead is a fairly clumsy bike-caliper affair which will hold the car as much as is generally needed for a standing start). Upshot is you may need to incorporate the hat to get your wheels offset in the right place. If none of the above makes sense then shout and I'll try and find some pictures (probably from the parts catalogue I pointed you at before). Ps/ Nice uprights! Edit: Stick "993 GT2 brakes" into your favourite web image search engine and you'll get drilled, slotted, single part, floating disc, 6 pot caliper, 4 pot etc, etc. So whatever you decide to do will be right. Edited December 28, 2018 by Kirk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 28 minutes ago, Kirk said: Not sure about the GT2, but the vast majority of Porsche rear discs include a raised section (kind "top hat") which acts as the handbrake lining. However, iirc, some of the racing cars have separate floating discs, the slimmer hat part of which does NOT house the handbrake (which instead is a fairly clumsy bike-caliper affair which will hold the car as much as is generally needed for a standing start). Upshot is you may need to incorporate the hat to get your wheels offset in the right place. If none of the above makes sense then shout and I'll try and find some pictures (probably from the parts catalogue I pointed you at before). Ps/ Nice uprights! Edit: Stick "993 GT2 brakes" into your favourite web image search engine and you'll get drilled, slotted, single part, floating disc, 6 pot caliper, 4 pot etc, etc. So whatever you decide to do will be right. Thanks for that Kirk, Google has been working overtime but it has been tricky to work out exactly what "standard" would have been. Even searches for diameter have listed anywhere between 304 and 332mm. I've gone with the larger size. But adding an extra centre bit is probably essential to get the kit caliper on inside the wheel. Filing the centre bits of discs was surprisingly easy. And one just about finished bar a bit of filler. Although I did have a blonde moment and only managed to put 11 grooves on this one. Even after marking all 12 on a piece of paper to put underneath it! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Happy New Year everyone Rear calipers removed from their original discs. And following on from everything else being made at least twice, I thought it'd be cheating to only have the one go at the shocks. So here's version 2.0 with an m1.6 bolt as the centre. And they will be adjustable (if I put the fixing point for the 5th rear arm in wrong place so an allen key can get to bottom of shock bolt). And the original (with front disc) compared to the new bits. Think I've figured out why it's called scratchbuilding, cos there's lots of scratching of the head involved. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 Great Nikita, but it's urgent now, you need a lathe! Dan. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 18 minutes ago, PROPELLER said: Great Nikita, but it's urgent now, you need a lathe! Dan. Thank you Dan Yeah maybe, but just a likkle one. Would probably minimise the risk to fingers when I've got the dremel in one hand and cordless drill in the other. Have had a look at the 12v dc 5 in 1 little machines on ebay for about £100. Even one of those is out my budget for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 You're getting rather good at this scratch lark, aren't you?? 1 hour ago, nikkita katana said: And following on from everything else being made at least twice …….and I guarantee you'll make things another half-dozen times along this journey. I think you've definitely got the bug now, Nikki, so keep pushing yourself out of the comfort-zone......you're better than you think! Happy New Year to you, too! Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 Getting good at scratching my head a lot Harvey, anything else getting better is a bonus. I've got the replacing of fixing brackets on the frame down to about half an hour now. Kind of ironic that the more you re-do bits the less you get bothered about making something wrong in the first place. And only having to replace the stock of brass is way better than having to replace or repair any damaged plastic kit parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 34 minutes ago, nikkita katana said: And only having to replace the stock of brass is way better than having to replace or repair any damaged plastic kit parts. …..plus, you get a lot more material for your money.....and it's re-workable!!!! You can mess it up as many times as you like! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 2, 2019 Share Posted January 2, 2019 I agree with Harvey, you are learning by leaps now, plus - amazingly, you're having fun too ! I differ on getting a lathe - for now. Use the money for this instead: I'll say it again - put this dinky training wheels project on the 'finished' shelf and get started on 1/8 scale. Do without vanity items - or food if you have to - but find a Pocher FIAT or Alfa that you can afford. These are good 'starters'. You can see there's reams of help here for the asking and you will find what it means to have big fun AND satisfaction. And it's actually easier than working in the smaller scales. For inspiration, look at Wayne's 1/8 F-40 thread, a forest of brass and PE, masterfully done. And my house is probably cheaper. 😎 I know - I never stop..................... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 18 hours ago, Codger said: I agree with Harvey, you are learning by leaps now, plus - amazingly, you're having fun too ! Thank you Mr C. A lot of it is more re-learning, as I've had the chances to use some interesting machinery in jobs in the past. The figuring it out how to do it small scale is all new though. And am definitely having fun. 18 hours ago, Codger said: Do without vanity items - or food if you have to Haha, last month my hairdryer broke and the replacement was cheaper than the new soldering iron. Only by a few pence but cheaper none the less. #priorities I do have an idea in head of something I'd eventually like to do in 1/8 scale. Got any detailed drawings of that Cobra or know where I could find some? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 Just don't try to dry your hair with the soldering iron. To be controversial, I'll take the other argument and say save for the lathe. There's a great "ThisOldTony" youtube video on mini lathes. Actually anything he does is very interesting. And if you sell a couple of 911 suspension kits (or just the dampers) that should cover the cost... Kirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 3, 2019 Share Posted January 3, 2019 5 hours ago, nikkita katana said: I do have an idea in head of something I'd eventually like to do in 1/8 scale. Got any detailed drawings of that Cobra or know where I could find some? This is a bigger subject than you might imagine and I don't want to divert your thread. But here's what I know to date. There has been no recent Cobra action in 1/8 scale to my knowledge, but about 5 years ago there was some. I send you these links to demonstrate. First - ALL the 1/16 and smaller kits over the decades are poor for accuracy in many aspects. Nearly all were patterned after 1:1 kit cars or restored cars with many owner's 'custom' touches of wildly varying accuracy - including longer wheelbases, giant tires and much wacky stuff. This is the current dead-nuts accurate 1:1 replica made today; look here and weep: http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/ I assume you're looking to scratch your own chassis which is quite do-able for your current skills as it is a relatively simple ladder frame design with f/r coilovers (the big block cars) and best seen here on the (excellent) MFH 1/12 kit. At over 600USD, you will need to sell many hairdryers but the kit is highly accurate with very slight nits to pick. https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/8qix5yq5vms812mzdbup.html IIRC, accurate chassis drawings may be found by a search for the Shelby Museum in Colorado. I think they have posters of the chassis. I have an old ozalid blueprint top/side view but it is 2' across and framed on my wall. About that 5 year time, a small group called TDR Innovations fabricated a complete car but beyond the prototype, I don't remembered any being offered. I was in touch with one of the principles regarding accuracy concerns but my help was not desired. Kyosho made a diecast which was reasonably good but the overall was a bit 'diecast' with slight distortions and thicknesses. A much more successful and accurate project was done by Michael Phillip, a pattern maker from Germany. Several of these were sold on a 'as-ordered' basis. He is a hugely talented builder and we exchanged info and many pictures of my car and his model at various stages. Here is the last valid link to him I found and much of the story is here.: https://hotrodenginetech.com/18-scale-ford-427-sideoiler/ He used detail photos of my engine and did an excellent build of the type in 3D print. Here's mine; he used Webers, I have two Holleys: He also used 4-views of my car and his own version of my custom paint. For less than 1000 real cars, the Cobra universe is more complex than one would think. These examples are 427 powered cars in the 'big car' chassis (only 156" LOA) and there are the 'small block' cars which have the family resemblance but are markedly different. Point being there's a lot of schooling before glue or solder. And Cobra shapes and proportions are very difficult to get 'right'. MFH, Kyosho and Michael are the best I've seen. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 Thank you Mr C, That's a rather nice diversion. And some really useful links. The fact it has a frame that looks fairly do-able is kind of why a cobra is an idea for something later. Although making all those curves doesn't look quite so straight forward. But making from scratch and buying materials and tools as I go along would certainly suit me better than saving up for a nice sized kit. 600 bucks is a lot of brass (and hairdryers). I'm gonna drool over that engine for a while now if you don't mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted January 4, 2019 Share Posted January 4, 2019 1 hour ago, nikkita katana said: I'm gonna drool over that engine for a while now if you don't mind. Third degree burns might result. I'd rather you heard it at 6200. You got my point exactly - the chassis is good starting point. See the MFH pictures for how simple it can be. The body - even the best can not capture exactly what was. Save all for another day and there's tons of reference out there. Better, you save for a 1:1 Kirkham. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Any updates on this superb display of micro engineering Nikkita? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hi Roger, Have to confess I've been hibernating a little bit lately, mostly curled up on sofa with a duvet and Netflix. Sun's just come out here so that might help. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 25, 2019 Share Posted December 25, 2019 It being near Christmas, I wonder how this one is getting on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FunkyChiken Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Looking forward to updates! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 Hi everyone and Happy New Year. Sadly no updates on this one yet. Been a few bits of personal stressy stuff going on so haven't exactly been in the right frame of mind to tackle the challenge I set myself here. No massive issues, just enough to feel a bit too niggly for this one. A couple of months of things going smoother and hopefully I'll drag all the bits out from the spare room.😀 Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to pick something else off the shelf and do an out the box build to get me back in the swing of things again. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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