nikkita katana Posted December 16, 2018 Author Share Posted December 16, 2018 21 minutes ago, Kirk said: Wow. Once the weight of the engine is in, the ride height should come in quite nicely. Ever come across Ninemeister's cars? Check out this "964"? Does the strut pivot on the upright at its base? Liking the idea of the centre nut. The bottom of the shock is just sitting on a little pin. So when it's all screwed to the chassis the spring presses the hub down into the hole in the lower control arm, so there was no need to think any more about screwing that on. Somehow I don't think the half of the engine they give you will drop the ride height. That could be done by either shaving a bit of bottom of shock or raising the top mounting point. Either would be simple to do. Shaving the bottom would reduce spring travel which is currently 4mm. The inside of the plastic frame where top goes could be covered with putty and just drill the locating hole deeper. My friend will have to decide if he wants it slammed or more springyness to play with. Just looked at that link, those full size shocks can't have much more travel than 4mm!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 On 12/16/2018 at 6:21 AM, JeroenS said: Trying to get everyone on the forum up to 1/8 scale eh Codger? I have tried to build two 1/8th scale cars, both were rubbish! Both the kits (Revell E type, Pocher Testarossa) and my skills. 1/8th is just too big to put anywhere in my house and the wife would probably kill me if I tried I'll stick to 1/24 & 1/16, with the occasional 1/12 where I think I can get away with it.... Anyway Nikki, I am amazed with the standard of your work. I inspires me to try harder on my models. Cheers, Alan. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 (edited) 42 minutes ago, Alan R said: I have tried to build two 1/8th scale cars, both were rubbish! Both the kits (Revell E type, Pocher Testarossa) and my skills. 1/8th is just too big to put anywhere in my house and the wife would probably kill me if I tried I'll stick to 1/24 & 1/16, with the occasional 1/12 where I think I can get away with it.... I've worked both those kits and agree those kits are rubbish Alan. But with much work, very nice models can be built from them. I certainly respect the difficulties of displaying and even building them due to size. Having completed and now living with a 26" long, 13 pound project (weight not cost ), I do not wish to promote marital disharmony! Agreed also that 1/8 scale is not for everyone. I simply tried to encourage Nikkita to challenge herself because her skills are at a level where she might enjoy the challenge and results she achieves with such a project. I respect that we should all build what suits and pleases us most... Edited December 17, 2018 by Codger 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 I have to say I find working on 1:1 car models is generally less fun than working on something in a smaller scale - although when you b****r it up at full scale you can often throw money at it at have someone else fix it for you (or at least send you new, unbroken parts), whereas the models end up back in the box waiting for mojo. That said, all the 1:1 jobs I ever do seem to leave the car immobile outside the house necessitating a trailer to get them to the garage so there's a fair bit of incentive to fix the problem. Makes it quite enjoyable watching someone with better modelling skills than mine improve and solve unfathomable problems!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 1 hour ago, Alan R said: Anyway Nikki, I am amazed with the standard of your work. I inspires me to try harder on my models. Cheers, Alan. Thanks Alan, every bit is taking quite a few attempts and a couple of patches are more solder and less brass. But am learning from the mistakes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 12 minutes ago, Kirk said: Makes it quite enjoyable watching someone with better modelling skills than mine improve and solve unfathomable problems!! It's kind of felt like a very long winded practical lesson in geometry. Lets just say if I try something similar on another kit then at least I have more ideas now on how to simplify some of the processes a bit. I may still struggle to love the car but jeez Porsche certainly put some engineering excellence into it. I'm just hoping the front turns out be easier!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 17, 2018 Share Posted December 17, 2018 Jut fyi: In the original Boxster and 996, the main lower wishbone arm and control arm are the same both left/right and front/rear. The accountants were happy, they drive pretty well and cost the owner considerably less than earlier model suspension parts when they eventually wear out. It's likely that the same parts were used for the 997. Much as I admire 918s, Carrera GTs and the like, there's something very honest about the air cooled cars (and though I know it has water cooled heads, I include the 959 in this sweeping statement). Porsche just kept addressing shortcomings and the car got better and better. There are plenty of people who would argue vehemently that the engine is in the wrong place, but I'd venture to say that only a small proportion of those have actually driven one (or got the rear end un-stuck). Did so once in a 964 and felt like a Le Mans winner when I managed to floor the throttle and power-slide for what felt like about 200m... Anyway, I'm sure the front won't defeat you; It's fundamentally much simpler than the rear - though I suppose it does steer a bit more. Btw, how do you get the solder to build up without it all melting off in a big blob? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 1 hour ago, Codger said: I simply tried to encourage Nikkita to challenge herself because her skills are at a level where she might enjoy the challenge and results she achieves with such a project. Thank you Codger. Back in the 80's I did make the 1/8 Monogram Camaro Z28 IROC. Just straight out the box and brush painted. If I still had that it would certainly be coming apart for some proper detailing of the engine at the very least. It's only available funds (or lack of) that's stopping me from any larger scale models. I'll have to try and put a couple of quid away on weeks I'm slightly better off, but then I say that a lot and it rarely gets far. it's just nikki btw 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 23 minutes ago, Kirk said: Btw, how do you get the solder to build up without it all melting off in a big blob? So far more by luck than anything else!! And turning the iron down a lot and only adding as small amount as possible and let it cool again. Little blobs haven't quite turned into big blobs 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Hi Nikki, Just on little question, if I may. How did you make the springs. That is the main reason I haven't attempted to fabricate shocks for my kits yet... Thanks, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 Hi Alan, Of course you may ask The springs themselves came off ebay earlier in the year. I think two 10cm lengths were about £2. Type "3.18 od spring" into ebay and the seller should come up as the first result (just did for me anyway). They do various small sizes and multiples of 10cm lengths. The rest is this..... and the * bit means.... The 2mm longer bit of brass tube was top part above the aluminium turned down to 1.7. Centre all drilled to 1.2mm and and then re-drilled with 1.5mm bit from the bottom to a depth of approx 5mm. The aluminium bits were just superglued to the brass tubes but the top has now been soldered since it's the only part that gets any kind of stress on it. There's a couple of diagrams on first page of thread that may help explain how it all works. And here's the tools used. That's a piece of 1.5mm rod quickly worked down to 1.3 I worked way along a file width at a time sort of like this to help stop everything bending out of shape..... So nothing fancy in the way of equipment but takes a bit longer than on a mini lathe I guess, and maybe not so accurate on the measurements. But sufficient to achieve the desired result. Hope that helps. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 And has anyone got any good tips on cleaning tiny files? Mine appear to be rather grubby now!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codger Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 26 minutes ago, nikkita katana said: And has anyone got any good tips on cleaning tiny files? Mine appear to be rather grubby now!!! A brass wire 'tooth' brush works for me. If solder is trapped in the files, heat them. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted December 18, 2018 Share Posted December 18, 2018 Hi Nikki, Thanks for the info. I will take a look. Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 18, 2018 Author Share Posted December 18, 2018 You're welcome Alan. I'm finding brass quite nice to work with. Not too soft so keeps its shape ok, but soft enough to file and bend mostly how I want it to. And any bodges and dodgy fits can be fixed with a bit of solder. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 Been thinking of tidier ways to fit upper arms fixing pins. So instead of 1mm brass and a dab of solder (which works ok but not that great on a close up view) I thought maybe trying to get some sort of flange on the 1mm aluminium tube. So today has been making the parts to make the parts. Two bits of 2mm brass set into a solid base, one countersunk one flat. And aluminium in first bit of brass tapped with a pointed bit of 1.6mm steel rod and then flattened in second bit of brass. Comes out looking like this. Was originally thinking of 2 halves with 0.5mm rod through middle bit they may end up a bit too small for me to cut right length and fit properly. Will see how that turns out when or if I've made enough spares. Friend who car is for popped in yesterday and inspected the progress and it all got a big thumbs up, and he preferred the bigger ride height and more springyness to play with. And also really liked the idea of the one centre nut for the wheels so a selection of 1.6mm allen bolts and nuts have been ordered. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 19, 2018 Author Share Posted December 19, 2018 Fiddly little blighters but yayyy, that worked in two halves. At least it works if the glue holds. But excess glue is definitely easier to clean off than excess solder. Not sure how such a tiny piece can seem like such an achievement but hey ho!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 13 hours ago, nikkita katana said: Not sure how such a tiny piece can seem like such an achievement but hey ho!! The smaller the piece, the harder it is to physically hold and work, I suppose. It's the smallest of details that maketh the model, though.....and you're doing a grand job of it! Keep it up. On 12/18/2018 at 3:00 PM, Codger said: On 12/18/2018 at 2:32 PM, nikkita katana said: And has anyone got any good tips on cleaning tiny files? Mine appear to be rather grubby now!!! A brass wire 'tooth' brush works for me. If solder is trapped in the files, heat them. I'm in agreement with Mr C. The way to prevent any build-up in the first place, though, especially "soft" metals like ally, solder etc is to rub chalk on the blade of the file before and during use. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 1 hour ago, harveyb258 said: The smaller the piece, the harder it is to physically hold and work, I suppose. It's the smallest of details that maketh the model, though.....and you're doing a grand job of it! Keep it up. Thanks Harvey, My nails suffer from clubbing so even picking tiny parts up can be a problem. Nails curl over the end of my fingers instead of growing the normal kind of straight way. Total pain most of the time but when they grow nice and long they're proper claws!! Was not going to start this model til a few of them had broken. Incidentally, turned out easier to file that ally tube down to 2mm and then flange it. Just put a bit of 1mm brass inside the 2mm to support them while they got whacked. Few more to make but getting closer to all sorted. Just a few fixing pins to do and rear anti-roll bar to work out. Next photoshoot could be the whole of the assembly completed. Most of the year I've been telling friend he'll have it by Christmas. He's more than happy with just the back wheels for now though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 20, 2018 Share Posted December 20, 2018 Top tip: Never make the mistake of committing to a particular Christmas. This is the only reason I'm still married. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 2 hours ago, Kirk said: Top tip: Never make the mistake of committing to a particular Christmas. This is the only reason I'm still married. Haha Now you mention it I didn't actually say THIS Christmas And technically I've made everything at least twice!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 Provided nothing breaks, that's the rear suspension sorted. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Go Nikki, go!! Excellent work. You should be proud. Cheers, H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Don't forget: pale blue springs with Bilstein dampers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nikkita katana Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 2 hours ago, harveyb258 said: Go Nikki, go!! Excellent work. You should be proud. Cheers, H Thank you Harvey, yes I think I am with most of that. The hubs are a bit of a compromise based on picking the simplest way to make something sturdy but I could now have a go at something a bit more intricate and if I fail stick with the clunky ones. There has been an awful lot of fixing/completely re-making previous bits whenever a new part has been added which makes me think "why not" on the hubs. But it's also meant every time I've had to re-do a bit it's ended up better than the previous go. Connecting the last top arm involved cutting it's fixing point off the frame and replacing it. So much messing about but worth the extra time and effort. 1 hour ago, Kirk said: Don't forget: pale blue springs with Bilstein dampers! Haha, yeah normally I would colour code kit springs and as it happens pale blue would be right for how this one will end up. So you never know, they may make their way into the bodyshop. Was also having a think about ways of making them better and technically I reckon they could be made as adjustable if the centre shaft was an m1.6 bolt and a nut was used at the top. Would mean having to set the nut properly in some sort of putty/liquid plastic recess at top and leaving access to bottom to get an allen key in it. Course, silly me only ordered just enough longer bolts for the wheels and they're not here yet so will put those thoughts to back of mind for now. But I haven't made the ones for the front yet so may experiment when I start on those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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