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opus999

Starship Enterprise -- AMT 1:650

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I know I need to get back to my Hermes class scout, but I started this AMT 1/650 Starship Enterprise as a Christmas gift for one of my oldest and dearest friends.  He is as crazy about Star Trek as I am and we spent a lot of time in college watching Next Generation (when it was still first run! That's how old we are!). He likes models but by his own admission doesn't have the patience to make them.  So I figured this would be the perfect Christmas gift for "the guy who has everything".

 

The best I could do was the AMT 2 in 1 set that I found on Amazon.

 

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The old AMT Enterprise and I go way back... I first built it when I was 13 and totally nuts about Star Trek (when the original series was the only one around!).  I thought it was the greatest model ever and it was proudly displayed on my desk.  I spent a lot of time flying it around the room when I should've been doing homework. ;)  I got a new kit and built it when I was in college.  So, I knew how this was going to go: Sand off the windows, sand off the grid on the saucer and order after market decals because the AMT decals were so hideous.

 

I was wrong.

 

I haven't followed the latest releases, but it turns out they recast the saucer to be smooth and the decals are now accurate!  Yay! But, they borked up the Polar Lights 1/1000 kit included in this set by only providing stickers for it. Which is totally stupid. So I will need to get after market decals for that when I do it sometime down the road.

 

The molds for the 1/650 kit are showing their age: there was a lot of flashing and every seam has a ridge that needs to be dealt with.  I pulled out the pieces to the one I built when I was 13 and it definitely had much better seams than this one will.

 

I glued the secondary hull and warp nacelles together right away. I have no idea how I put this together as a kid, because, as an adult with tons more skill, I had the hardest time getting the 3 parts of the secondary hull to stay together. There are no alignment pegs and the tabs that are supposed to keep things in place are so tiny that they're useless.  I gave up with the glue looper and instead held the parts together and upended the superglue on the seam figuring I'd be sanding and filling it anyway! What a mess.  I also took some sheet styrene and made better, reinforced tabs before I glued it, as shown here:

 

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I forgot to take pictures before I sanded the secondary hull with progressively finer sandpaper down to 12000 grit.  But here's how it turned out (nice and smooth!):

 

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On the other side the plastic was warped (or had sunk), so I will need to put some filler in to repair it:

 

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Here's an example of what the super glue looked like after I got done gluing.  Normally I'm not this messy, but it was all I could do to hold it together and glue it and then squirt accelerator on it before it all fell apart again. :(

 

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Luckily, I use superglue as a filler anyway, so when I sand it down (being careful not to put a flat spot in it), it smooths out nicely as shown in the nacelle I've sanded down:

 

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Now, I know how inaccurate this model is, and I've seen the inaccuracies discussed in dozens of forums, but I know the issues and have ideas of how to modify many (but not all) of the inaccuracies to make this a better model. The sheer size of it makes it impressive and I think my friend will really appreciate it.  That's all for now...

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Finished sanding the nacelles today.  Ugh... so much sanding.  Luckily there's no surface detail and if I'm careful, I won't sand any flat spots in it.

 

I'd post pictures but Imgur is suddenly not accepting any of my uploads... :(

 

 

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Hooray!  it's all working again! So to pick up where I left off... The super glue method works pretty well for me.  First I sand the super glue covered seam with a 150 grit sanding stick.  Not very much because you can take plastic off in a hurry with that grit. Just enough to level out the super glue. The low spots become obvious because they stay shiny with the sanded plastic being rough. Like in this picture:

 

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I stop sanding and add glue to the low spots.  Here's a picture of me adding glue to the low spot in the nacelle with my trusty glue looper:

 

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I then sand with 400 and 800 grit sanding sticks. Then with 1500, 3600, and 4000 grit sandpaper. All wet sanded. I didn't go finer than 4000 grit because I've read that paint can have troubles sticking to plastic that is too smooth.  Besides, the end result is supposed to be semi-gloss anyway.

 

Usually after this, I find a few spots I missed, so there's always one or two sessions of touching up and sanding. I think can declare the nacelles done though. 

 

The next thing on my list was to fix the navigational deflector.  The AMT version is completely inaccurate and always stands out like a sore thumb in my book. I had a wild thought to see if the larger of the 2 navigational deflectors in the 1/1000 kit would be the same size. (for those who don't know: The Polar Lights 1/1000 Enterprise gives you a larger and a smaller navigational deflector so you can either build the Enterprise from the pilot episode(s), or the production version from the rest of the series).

 

Alas, it was too small, but, it fit almost perfectly within the AMT dish. So, I took a 3/16" drill bit and drilled out the center of the Polar Lights deflector, and then took a big bit (didn't see what size) to countersink the hole in back to fit over the cone shaped part of the AMT deflector. In my recent F-84 thunderjet build, I clipped off the refueling probes from the wing tanks and it turns out they are the right size for the center part of the probe assembly. This description probably doesn't make sense, so here is a picture of all the parts:

 

wy7W74M.jpg

 

In the above picture, I've already drilled out the center of the Polar lights deflector. The F-84 probe is to the left and the AMT deflector is at top.  It turns out my Dremel drill index has a bit small enough for the hole I needed for the probe.  I cut the existing probe off of the AMT deflector and (tried) to drill a straight hole to put the F-84 probe into, as seen here:

 

8xLiYb2.jpg

 

You can see the countersunk hole in the back of the Polar Lights deflector in that picture. I fit it all together and it looks like it will work fine.  Here's a picture of it all together. It's not a snug fit, so everything is loose, but you get the idea.  When it's all glued it will look much better.  Not perfect, but the casual observer won't be able to tell.

 

v0hs7qU.jpg?1

 

Edited by opus999
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43 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Good work on the deflector dish. 

Thanks! It looks better now that I have it glued together and sanded the rough edges off. I'll post pictures of it soon..

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Had a surprise visit from a friend tonight, so no work on the Enterprise... but that's OK!  I did squeeze in some work this week, though. Some more sanding, so I won't bore anyone with photos from that, but the nacelles are done and the engineering hull is done except for a little spot I need to fix tomorrow.

 

Other things I did this week... I finished gluing my deflector dish mod together and as promised here's a picture:

 

hZQ5xxb.jpg

 

Also, I painted the bussard collectors with decanted black Tamiya spray gloss (cut 50/50 with Mr. Leveling thinner). My idea is to paint them with polished Aluminum Alclad and then over coat them with Tamiya transparent orange.  I decided to test the transparent orange because, on my Hermes class scout, spraying it was a disaster!  Well, I cut it 50/50 with Mr. leveling thinner and it turned out beautifully on my test piece.  Here's the black bussard collectors and the test piece (from the Polar Lights 1/1000 kit):

 

QYheJ1G.jpg

 

Now, the Tamiya by itself would probably be safe to spray on the Alclad polished aluminum, but thinned with Mr. levelling thinner, probably not. So, my plan is to put a couple coats of aqua gloss on before I spray the orange. If it looks funny (that is, too reflective), I can give the bussard collectors a dusting of dull coat to give it a frosted look.  Kind of playing this one by ear...

 

Now for my other wacky idea. Another terrible part of this kit is the bridge and the B/C deck.  The B/C deck is shaped totally wrong and so is the bridge, but on top of it the bridge is designed to have a clear part put on top of it, but it sinks down and looks all wrong.  As seen in this picture:

 

KFir6xh.jpg

 

I started to wonder if I could improve that. I came up with the idea of casting a new bridge with some epoxy putty.  I thought about casting a new B/C deck, but there's no way I'd get the shape right.  I thought about sanding it into something a little closer to the shape on the "real" Enterprise, but the plastic is thin enough that I would probably break through. Of the 2, the bridge is the most irritating, and possibly the easiest to fix.  The B/C deck I can live with. So, I looked around and discovered a 1/4 teaspoon we have around the kitchen has the same diameter as the bridge on the model. Since Apoxie sculpt epoxy putty is water soluble, I put some water in the teaspoon to act as a mold release and packed it with putty. And... I couldn't get it back out.  So I scraped the spoon clean and then added a little soapy water, and then my cast part popped out just fine. I popped it out right away because I didn't want it to set up in the teaspoon and possibly ruin it. Here's a picture of the new bridge part with the teaspoon:

 

P9Xc2HJ.jpg

 

The putty overflowed the spoon a bit, so I will need to sand it down a little.  After that I think it will look quite nice!

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Oh... my... lord... what have I done???? 😲

 

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I went nuts with the Dremel! That's what!  I think the new bridge will look pretty good when I get it all cleaned up! I just set it on top to see how it looks. :D

 

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By the way... the top and bottom parts of the saucer weren't attached to a sprue, but there were almost like pour stubs around the outside and they were all the same thickness as the top part of the saucer, so it would've been really easy to screw that up!  I don't know how I could've trimmed them off without the Dremel and grinder attachment. 😒

 

 

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Busy weekend, so not a lot of time to work on this, but I got a few things accomplished.


First, got a hole drilled for the stand.  I guessed (based on some prior experience) about where the hole should be. It turns out that the existing hole for the stand that comes with the kit is the same diameter as a toothpick.  Push the toothpick in, break it off, soak it with super glue, wait, and then sand flush.  Works terrific.

 

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Next I prepped the saucer section for the new bridge.  That meant gluing some thick sheet styrene in, under the hole:

 

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When that dried, I used my water soluble epoxy putty to fill in the hole.  The next day I sanded it flush.

 

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The rest of the ship got a coat of Mr. Surfacer 1500.  I started getting excited because this means the painting stage is here and maybe all the tedious sanding is done!

 

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Well, the tedious sanding wasn't quite done because I had to clean up all the little parts on the sprues.  If there wasn't flashing, there was a thick ridge.  Dealing with that ridge (or flashing) has made this a not-quite-enjoyable build.

 

On the Bussard collector front, I got a coat of polished aluminum on.  I still need to test my scrap piece to see if it will react badly to the Tamiya transparent Orange/Mr. Color leveling thinner.

 

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I traded the tedium of sanding for the tedium of masking, but I was fairly happy with how these turned out.

 

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I just noticed in that last picture that there is some slightly glossy black which makes it look like the white is a little sloppy.  It isn't. :)

 

I finally had a little time tonight to start painting in earnest. There is a lot of acreage on this model!  It is going to take quite a bit of time.  Here's how far I got tonight on marbling the Gull gray on.

 

jc4GMlJ.jpg

 

That's all for now!

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Had a little time last night to paint.  Put the marble coat on the other nacelle... took about a half hour.  Tonight I cleaned off the "pour stubs" off the saucer with the Dremel and sanded the windows and panel lines off of it.  Then I glued it together. No pictures of that though! The seam on the saucer will need some cleaning up, but I hope to have it primed by the end of tomorrow night!

 

X702CTs.jpg

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