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Hasegawa 1:48 J7W1 'Shinden'


Sturmovik

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I decided to give Flickr for Android a try, since my table is currently occupied by the Shinden. Its pretty bad, it doesn't let me share the images because "there isn't an image for that url."

 

I began the model today, and this is its current state, ready for painting.

I decided to leave out the canards until after decaling, putting the aircraft on its gear and adding the propeller assembly, should I need to add more weight in the nose. Hasegawa recommends 1g of weight to be put as forward as possible, but I added a 10g weight and a smaller one ahead of it above the nose gear well. I don't know if that will be enough to avoid tail sitting, but the landing gear is really skinny and tall, and I don't want to add useless weight and overstress the nose gear.

What do you guys think, will I need more weight?

 

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Edited by Sturmovik
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6 minutes ago, Andwil said:

Isn’t the main UC of the Shinden so far back that tail sitting isn’t a major problem?

 

AW

It is, but the extra weight of the propeller may present problems with tail seating.

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I can't remember if I added weight or not, but it certainly won't take much.  And those gear ARE tall and skinny.  Mine wiggled a bit at times, but held up well until a move across country.  It's still in storage, and I've since bought another and sold it and bought another.  I'm awfully tempted to do this one as an air racer...

 

p.s. Now wrestling with getting enough weight in an OV-10 Bronco, which is a MUCH harder proposition!

Edited by gingerbob
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@gingerbob the aircraft does lend itself to be a racing aircraft. Mine will be painted as a regular Japanese aircraft plus some yellow details.

I too will be moving, but only five blocks from where I'm now, I hope the aircraft doesn't break when I move out.

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8 minutes ago, gingerbob said:

Now wrestling with getting enough weight in an OV-10 Bronco, which is a MUCH harder proposition!

Hello GB ... if you go thru my build it might help you ? Weight shown from post #26 on. 

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235032165-corsairs-bronco-build/

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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Hello Sturmovik!

 

I built one of these a couple of years ago and added weight to the nose. However I can't remember how much exactly.

 

Try the following method:

- dry fit the rear fuselage, propeller, main landing gears and canards (all missing major components) into place

- check carefully the main gear alignment

- find out the exact location above the tires and mark that to the model's under surface

- take a pencil (or some other thin object) placing the marking you made on top this trestle

- if the nose drops you have added enough weight

 

Be carefully with the additional weight because the landing gear is very flimsy.

 

Cheers,

Antti

 

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Have you guys seen this?

 

 

The pilot wearing a white scarf is the designer captain Masayoshi Tsuruno who was 26 years old when his creation was ready for the maiden flight. Tsuruno over-rotated the aircraft during take-off and the propeller hit the ground. After the incident those small wheels were added under the fins. A navy pilot made all subsequent missions (a total of some 45 minutes) and sadly Tsuruno never had the chance to fly his futuristic airplane.

 

Cheers,

Antti

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The Shinden is now on the final track for completion, fully painted and decalled, with the landing gear added and propeller installed. The only remaining bits are the transparent parts, which I´ve decided to paint tomorrow, since I´m too tired to keep going with the plane.

The weight I added was enough to keep the aircraft from tailsitting, so the canards were glued immediately after checking the aircraft´s balance.

The landing gear is as weak as it gets, tall, skinny, and with the main struts canting forward. I may keep the model´s box just to place the aircraft over its foldings, so the gear doesn´t touch the ground.

45398550154_b501e20527_z.jpg

Edited by Sturmovik
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Update: I decided to place two trimmed toothpicks at the base of the main landing gear struts to avoid them from moving too much. The toothpicks were glued with CA and painted black, to match the colour of the struts.

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