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tamya gloss setting and curing times


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I am in the middle of a large scale Ferrari and airbrushed at 17 PSI red X7 diluted 20% approx with Tamya thinners. After 24 hours my vinyl gloves are still leaving imprints of the gloves. How long do I wait before commencing to hold the model? ie how long is the curing time?

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I hate to tell you this but it will probably leave prints for weeks. That stuff takes an age to dry. You would be better to strip the X-7 and repaint in Mr Color, Tamiya LP or Tamiya TS (aerosol). These three are all lacquer paints. They dry very quickly and hard, but most of all, are very tough and can be handled without fear of marking..

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I am so pleased you replied. Many Thanks. I tried Tamya main dealer in the UK and was very dissapointed with the reply. It rather confirms my experience but I didn't realise it was weeks and not days! Your results look flawless unlike mine. 

When you say Lacquer Paints what do you actually mean?

Once again many thanks for the reply

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I have found that if I want to spray Tamiya Acrylics, I don't use the Tamiya thinner. I use Mr Color levelling thinners.

It dries in minutes and is definitely hard within the hour.

Mind you, I can't recall Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinners being very slow in drying. Maybe they have changed the formulation.

 

Cheers, Alan.

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3 hours ago, Alan R said:

I have found that if I want to spray Tamiya Acrylics, I don't use the Tamiya thinner. I use Mr Color levelling thinners.

It dries in minutes and is definitely hard within the hour.

Mind you, I can't recall Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Tamiya thinners being very slow in drying. Maybe they have changed the formulation.

 

Cheers, Alan.

Tamiya matts (XF) dry very quickly and are rock hard in minutes, their gloss, pretty much all gloss even Gunze hobby, take a long time to fully harden off.

I tend to thin Tamiya with Mr Levelling thinner it gives the matts a slight sheen instead of dead flat as when using their X-20A thinner, and has been pointed out harden up much qucker when using gloss

 

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Thank you once again. This is the first time that Lacquer Paints(LP) has been explained to me. I have even tried Googling the terms but been none the wiser afterwards. A rule of thumb I have used since A level days is If after an explanation I don't understand, then the person giving the information doesn't understand the information they are trying to put across as well! i was under the impression wrongly as it turned out that LP were cellulose based. At the recent National Model Railway Show I was in conversation with David Bancroft? and he said almost word for word what you have advised. I couldn't get my head around that acrylics he told me Halford paints were acrylic and LP.

 

I use the above ie Mr Color levelling thinner and Tamya paints and also Tamya thinners. It really has been this Gloss Red that has really flumoxed me, I can't remember using so much Gloss ever and thought it really has been a long wait...

I'm coming to the end of 1/72 Fairy Gannet silver and orange and this red Ferrrari 1/16 Italerri. 

 

The Ferrari is coming out a 3 foot kit and the gannet a foot. These are viewing distances where the faults don't show!

 

Once agin many thanks for both comments really much appreciated both models will appear in "Ready for Inspection" hopefully in the next month 

Edited by Tim K
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18 minutes ago, Tim K said:

The Ferrari is coming out a 3 foot kit and the gannet a foot. These are viewing distances where the faults don't show!

Good one 🙂 

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In the near future, I plan to dig out my Badger 150 airbrush, do some practice painting, then attempt painting my Airfix 1/72 Hurricane. I was planning to use Tamiya XF colours. Should I use the X-20A thinner or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner? What might be a good ratio of paint to thinner if using the lacquer thinner?

 

 

Chris

Edited by dogsbody
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On ‎28‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 18:06, dogsbody said:

… I was planning to use Tamiya XF colours. Should I use the X-20A thinner or the Tamiya Lacquer thinner? What might be a good ratio of paint to thinner if using the lacquer thinner?...

If you're just starting out, use the X/XF paints with X20A thinner. Lacquer paints/thinners are of more use when working quickly and/or in need of a more resilient finish.

 

Tamiya state a 2 part paint to 1 part thinner ratio for their acrylic range, use this as a guide and adjust the amount of thinner to suit the air pressure you're comfortable with spraying. I start with a 1 part paint to 1 part thinner ratio for both acrylic and lacquer thinners and air pressure between 10-18psi. This may not work for you though...

 

Experimentation is the key as we all adopt different styles.

 

All the best.

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7 hours ago, AR918 said:

Lacquer paints/thinners are of more use when working quickly and/or in need of a more resilient finish.

But that was the problem with the Tamiya X series paints that he stated in his first post. He was experiencing slow drying times and they were marking/leaving fingermarks in the finish. That's what they do, especially the gloss colours. The use of the lacquer paints would, in my opinion, totally alleviate the problem and give a much more resilient finish to boot. Sure you can soldier on with the acrylics and wait for them to dry. But they do take an awful long time to dry properly. I don't see the logic in saying that lacquer paints are only for when you want to work quickly or need a more resilient finish. At the end of the day who wants to wait forever for paint to dry or wait forever only to have it mark when handled,  or worse still, rub off? 

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14 hours ago, Steve Noble said:

…I don't see the logic in saying that lacquer paints are only for when you want to work quickly or need a more resilient finish. At the end of the day who wants to wait forever for paint to dry or wait forever only to have it mark when handled,  or worse still, rub off?

Hi Steve, I didn't say lacquers are exclusively for the quoted purpose, more that they are better for working quickly with a finish that will be "handled", say sanding back and/or polishing. I do agree about the properties of lacquers, hence the above advice to Tim K (the OP) based on our experiences.

 

The bit of my post you quoted is in response to Dogsbody who is building a military aeroplane, he also appears to be starting out with airbrushing or just rusty. The X/XF range of semi-gloss and flat paints and acrylic thinner should work fine in this respect as they dry quicker than the X range of gloss paints and are easier to clean (with water if need be).

 

The logic of my post to Dogsbody is to start simple, get comfortable then move onto the things which allow you to work quicker with your new skillset. Maybe I'm OTT methodical but what's the rush when you're starting something new?

 

All the best.

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5 hours ago, AR918 said:

Hi Steve, I didn't say lacquers are exclusively for the quoted purpose, more that they are better for working quickly with a finish that will be "handled", say sanding back and/or polishing. I do agree about the properties of lacquers, hence the above advice to Tim K (the OP) based on our experiences.

 

The bit of my post you quoted is in response to Dogsbody who is building a military aeroplane, he also appears to be starting out with airbrushing or just rusty. The X/XF range of semi-gloss and flat paints and acrylic thinner should work fine in this respect as they dry quicker than the X range of gloss paints and are easier to clean (with water if need be).

 

The logic of my post to Dogsbody is to start simple, get comfortable then move onto the things which allow you to work quicker with your new skillset. Maybe I'm OTT methodical but what's the rush when you're starting something new?

 

All the best.

Yes, of course. Wasn't trying to undermine you or have a go. Sorry if it came across that way. I concur that the Tamiya XF range of paints are fine and do dry quickly, I use them myself for interiors and the like. I was talking about the X series only, the gloss in particular, as they are the ones that I always suffered problems with when I first started building car and bike models. Myself i just could never get on with them..

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I've been around this buoy a few times, with both Tamiya and Mr Hobby Aqueous it just wouldn't harden even after putting in airing cupboards for a week or more.  I tried alsorts, varying ratios, levelling thinners you name it I tried it, I even tried different batches of paint nothing worked.

 

Then I opted for Mr Hobby Color with a mixture of thinner and levelling thinning as per Mr hobbies recommendation.  Bingo perfect paint dry to the touch in a few hours, rock hard in a few days,  clear coated with GX100 Super Clear III thinned with the same mix of thinner  job done :yes: 

 

Here

39625123645_0801e53ee3_k.jpg

 

Or something like Zero paint they work a dream too but you need a quality clear with these, I've used GX100 Super Clear III

Here

40499370950_6f05cbdf1d_k.jpg

 

Don't mess about just go Mr Color or Zero 

Edited by Kev The Modeller
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5 hours ago, Kev The Modeller said:

 

39625123645_0801e53ee3_k.jpg

 

40499370950_6f05cbdf1d_k.jpg

 

Don't mess about just go Mr Color or Zero 

Dude, I echo your comments!! That's the reason I tried to sway the original poster, wrongly or rightly towards the "better" paints, that are in my opinion and yours too it seems, much more suitable for trouble free modelling. I'm probably like you and have tried almost all types of paints and made many mistakes along the way, learning the hard way sometimes as to what works and what doesn't. Using the paints you mentioned above does, in my opinion take the hassle out of painting and just makes it easier and less trouble means a better finish, a better model. Win, win all round 😀

 

P.S That Suzuki is stunning, what a finish!! 

Edited by Steve Noble
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8 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

Dude, I echo your comments!! That's the reason I tried to sway the original poster, wrongly or rightly towards the "better" paints, that are in my opinion and yours too it seems, much more suitable for trouble free modelling. I'm probably like you and have tried almost all types of paints and made many mistakes along the way, learning the hard way sometimes as to what works and what doesn't. Using the paints you mentioned above does, in my opinion take the hassle out of painting and just makes it easier and less trouble means a better finish, a better model. Win, win all round 😀

 

P.S That Suzuki is stunning, what a finish!! 

Hi Steve 

 

Yes I totally agree it's a win win :yes:  

 

The Gxxier was a real fight, I stripped it all 7 times :yikes:I was using Mr Hobby Aqueous and it just wouldn't harden every time I touch it it would just mark or after my final play with Agueous and 6th complete strip, re-prime etc I got it ok for handling, then when removing masking after a couple days I got this 

39148988684_98d34e15e4_k.jpg

39859364001_f43e7bdf2f_k.jpg

39826929882_747cc3a9c4_k.jpg

28079678169_9310b7a84a_k.jpg

I switched to Mr Hobby Color and first go got

25432915587_32190a47b3_k.jpg

25432932447_dd19b107ff_k.jpg

40304016551_dcd337e055_k.jpg

39592348404_571cf24eeb_k.jpg

40258954122_6264a01b51_k.jpg

These are just colour no clear,  like you said learning the hard way😭  

 

I'm not  saying Tamiya or Mr Hobby Aqueous aren't good far from it they're superb paints and I use them all the time without issue.  But if you want high quality finish go for a lacquer paint Mr Hobby Color, Tamiya do them too but I've not used them, I'm sure they'd perform as well or opt for Zero paint.  

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1 hour ago, Kev The Modeller said:

 I got it ok for handling, then when removing masking after a couple days I got this 

 

39826929882_747cc3a9c4_k.jpg

28079678169_9310b7a84a_k.jpg

Man, those two photos took me right back to my first ever Tamiya bike kit, the VFR750 RC30!! I used Tamiya X paints for the main body and when I masked out for the second colour that is what I got. Tape marks and lots of 'em. I didn't know what I was doing wrong until I realised it was simply the paints I was using...

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A little help for Mr Hobby users......use the thinner designed for it. You should have far less drying issues.

 

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=85

 

This thinnner contains alcohol for faster drying, though the Aqueous Hobby Color may be diluted with tap water. It also improve adhesion to the paint surface. And it can be used to wash air brushes and brushes too.

 

 

1.jpg

Edited by Homerlovesbeer
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On ‎04‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 15:34, Kev The Modeller said:

25432932447_dd19b107ff_k.jpg

Woah, stunning paint job Kev. The gunmetal colour is very fine, which Mr Color paint is this? Only asking as I've started on a Hayabusa X-1 and the Tamiya metalic paints are more like metal flake... Nice real life GSX-R too.

 

All the best.

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19 hours ago, AR918 said:

Woah, stunning paint job Kev. The gunmetal colour is very fine, which Mr Color paint is this? Only asking as I've started on a Hayabusa X-1 and the Tamiya metalic paints are more like metal flake... Nice real life GSX-R too.

 

All the best.

It's not Mr Color mate it's (AK 571) Extreme Metal Metallic Smoke, lovely paint to use.  You may need to darken it for X-1 but that's easy enough mix in some of their (AK 471) Black Base.  

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