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Hi guys, new to the forum so unsure where to post this question., so mods please feel free to post to the appropriate section.

 

i have been building models aircraft for so long now it’s hard to remember exactly when I started and I don’t think I make too bad a job. However one area that causes me more grief than it should is the dividing line between colours at the base of  vertical control surfaces  ( IE the tail ) and wing roots.  I can never seem to get a lovely straight crisp line between the colour on the tail / wing root and the rest of the fuselage as seen on airliners or military aircraft with coloured tails. I have tried using straight edges of masking tape but this seems to leave a raised edge of paint . I was just wondering how the experts on here manage to achieve such stunning reults. 

 

 

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Unless there is some other magical product I think masking tape is probably what the ‘experts’  use (and no, I’m not one of them). What you may be experiencing is paint build up along the edge of the tape. Spraying or brush painting in the direction away from this paint edge might just be all you need to do to see some improvement. I exclusively use Tamiya tape and make sure the tape is pressed firmly against the plastic. It’s all trial and error really. If your not happy, sand it back and try again. 

 

Not sure if this has answered your question or helps?

 

Cheers all the same.. Dave 

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Not an expert at all but as Dave has said paint build up on the edge of the tape sounds like the problem,  as Dave has said try and keep the coat of paint here thin, also I find that most paint edges disappear with the gloss or matt coat of varnish.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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You can minimise the build up by spraying over the top of the masking tape rather than spraying against the edge. However unless you are exceptionally skilled with an airbrush slight ridges along the masking line are a fact of life, certainly a fact of my life. A light rub with Micromesh is helpful (I usually use 6000 grade) but you must allow the paint to dry thoroughly first otherwise the paint can "tear" rather than sand off cleanly leaving you with a ragged line. I usually allow at least 48 hours for Halfords or other automotive paints and I'd leave enamel for at least a week, longer if possible. 

 

Decent masking tape is a must - yellow Tamiya tape is probably the best available. 

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Plastic_parts said:

Thanks for the help fellas. However I do seem to be doing as you chaps suggest. I wonder if it’s because I’m using appliance white from a rattle can as I don’t have an airbrush?

Paint from a rattle can invariably goes on thicker than any paint sprayed from an airbrush. I've been building models now for over 50 years, and the best thing I ever did to improve my models was purchase an airbrush. I highly advise it.

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As simple as it sounds...and simple is my 'specialty'...carefully rolling the end of a toothpick or a paintbrush handle along the raised edge does wonders for minimizing that microscopic 'step' a bit. It tamps it down enough to soften the harsh 'shadow' the eye picks out at the dividing line.

Edited by thorfinn
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  • 1 month later...
On ‎19‎/‎11‎/‎2018 at 16:08, Space Ranger said:

Paint from a rattle can invariably goes on thicker than any paint sprayed from an airbrush. I've been building models now for over 50 years, and the best thing I ever did to improve my models was purchase an airbrush. I highly advise it.

While I have not been building as long as Space Ranger, what he says about getting an Airbrush rings true with me.

 

Julien

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