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Klear replacement - suggestions


mike romeo

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Hi folks,

 

As the title suggests, I have finished the last of the bottles of Johnsons klear I had hoarded.  I'm looking for a direct replacement as a decal preparation coating.  NB I am a brush painter.

 

How does the milky Johnsons Pledge stack up?

 

Regards

 

Martin

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Hi Mike,

 

As a hairy stick and spray can only painter myself,  in my very humble opinion and limited experience so far, it's fantastic stuff.

 

Much like yourself I too fell into the klear replacement trap debacle and took the plunge after reading a few view reviews on "Amazon" and the tinternet nearly all by our fellow modellers surprisingly. dipping a lovely clear canopy into "milky coloured liquid then brushing over a careful paint job to seal is slightly off putting at first, but as the product dries it becomes crystal clear with a tough finish.   Cheers.      

 

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From my experience when using the above household product as a clear cote for decals, it can react badly if you brush on decal softeners.  Is there a minimum time you should wait for the clear to cure, or is it just best not to use any other products over this?

 

regards,

Jack

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23 minutes ago, JackG said:

From my experience when using the above household product as a clear cote for decals, it can react badly if you brush on decal softeners.  Is there a minimum time you should wait for the clear to cure, or is it just best not to use any other products over this?

 

regards,

Jack

Micro-sol and -set used to turn uncured klear whitish.  However another coat of klear brushed on once all had dried sorted everything out.

 

Is the reaction any different with the new klear?

 

Regards

 

Martin

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44 minutes ago, JackG said:

The reaction I experienced was more severe in that the acrylic clear became gooey and clumped together - no longer a smooth surface.  Maybe I applied too many brush strokes?

 

regards,

Jack

Don't think I ever got that reaction with klear, although I used as few strokes as I could with a 'dryish' brush.  If you put too much on you'd get 'puddles'.

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1 hour ago, mike romeo said:

Micro-sol and -set used to turn uncured klear whitish.  However another coat of klear brushed on once all had dried sorted everything out.

 

Is the reaction any different with the new klear?

 

Regards

 

Martin

Ah, I see, I have never used decal setting solutions as yet, I usually dilute PVA into my warm decal water, and then the same wash after, on tricky surfaces, with no issues at at so far. Then once left to set and dry,  I have found no problems at all applying the said product yet I must admit.  Cheers

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I use Quick Shine floor polish from Lakeland stores. As it's a floor polish it dries to a level finish and it dries quickly so doesn't slow you up when your on a roll.

I use it in conjunction with Revell Decalsoft and have had no problems at all. But it's horses for courses I guess.

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I'm a brush painter and have used the original Klear for a long time from when I got back into modelling in 2001 until I shifted country here a few years back. I left my old Klear at home and had to buy Pledge Extra Protection Wax, what Pledge Multi Surface is marketed as here in Scandinavia and on the Continent, and which is the milky coloured "replacement" for Klear.

 

My personal and honest opinion is that the Pledge stuff works exactly the same way as the old Klear. I use it on canopies and it makes them clear and appear thinner, and I use it as a gloss coat - it dries 100% clear, self levels, and from my experience behaves exactly the same way as old Klear. Only differences are that it is milky coloured in the bottle and it has a scent added (not unpleasant).

 

I've heard others say that they've had problems with it or that it behaves differently from the original. My experiences are the opposite and I have found it to behave exactly the same way as my old bottle of Klear. I subsequently bought two bottles of the stuff because of this. Can't say that I've experienced any problems using Micro Sol with it either.

Edited by Smithy
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Hi all, 

first off, there IS a difference between the old style Klear/Future

and what is currently available in the UK. Can't speak about what is available elsewhere on the planet.

What I'm NOT saying is the new breed doesn't work, because from what has been written here, it does.

Firstly to Martin @mike romeo, only thing I can suggest is to invest a few bucks and give it a go, if it goes pear shaped rush to the nearest drug store and buy a bottle of ammonia or if you can get it, a bottle of malt vinegar, that'll sort it! Tastes good on chips too!

@JackG, this is floor polish, it's capable of handling foot traffic in 20 minutes, how do I know? over the years I've sold thousands of (Imperial) gallons of the stuff, as well as for models I've been told its not too bad on hard floors either!

To your specific problem, try using it wet to apply your decals on to, then, when dry, re coat. In the dim reaches of my fevered mind I seem to remember that one of the two part decal systems contains ammonia, ammonia will strip acrylic anything.

@Work In Progress and @mackem01, Martin's in the US and Jack's in Canada, don't think Lakeland have made it that far as yet......others may know different!

@Smithy, it works for you, keep using it! 

The difference is in the formulation, the original never contained wax, the reason being, in commercial use the area to be covered meant a buffing machine was used, use a buffer on wax........... the product your now using does contain wax, there's a clue in the name, but it's deemed safe in the home environment.

Hope the above is of some use,

Paul

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, PhoenixII said:

@mike romeo

@JackG

 

@Work In Progress and @mackem01, Martin's in the US and Jack's in Canada, don't think Lakeland have made it that far as yet......others may know different!

 

 

 

 

It was Martin's question I was answering and to me he looks an awful lot like he's in South 'ampshire. I get mine in Northallerton and we both appreciate that down south is a bit foreign from a North Yorkshire perspective, but even so I'm reasonably sure Lakeland can supply the wild and woolly south coast, even if they have to use Postman Pat to do it.

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Quote

Heres what Phil @ Flory Models says...………………………….in the footage, Phil mentions the product is £14(I still have 2 x bottles)...…………..having just checked Amazon, its jumped up slightly to £47!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

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10 hours ago, PhoenixII said:

first off, there IS a difference between the old style Klear/Future

 

There definitely is a difference both in appearance, smell and without doubt composition.

 

But I was just saying that I personally haven't found any difference in how the old stuff (and I used that for over a decade) behaves and how the new (milky) stuff behaves.

 

I know there's other fellows who have had different experiences but for me I have found no discernible difference whatsoever in how they behave in how I use the stuff.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Work In Progress said:

It was Martin's question I was answering and to me he looks an awful lot like he's in South 'ampshire. I get mine in Northallerton and we both appreciate that down south is a bit foreign from a North Yorkshire perspective, but even so I'm reasonably sure Lakeland can supply the wild and woolly south coast, even if they have to use Postman Pat to do it.

Mea Culpa! That'll teach me to work from a tablet! :blush:

Mind you, which Lakeland do you use? the one down the road from Betty's or the one the opposite side of the road?

1 hour ago, Roger Newsome said:

More than a bit! 😃

Think a veil over the conversation is called for Roger! Saying NOWT about Cambridge........:whistle:

 

Hi @Smithy the give away is the colour, the 'thin milk' white colour is the wax in suspension.

The important thing is, it WORKS for you.

 

If anybody wants to find out the who's,why's and wherefore's, if you have a commercial cleaning supplier to industry,

or to the licenced and catering trade anywhere near, go in and ask for the COSHH sheets on each of the products.

These are a legal requirement for any chemical based product still in production, or available, in the UK, and should be supplied

to anyone who purchases the product, assuming they don't want to fall foul of HSE if something goes wrong.

 

Paul

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