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Rigging

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Rigging

As rigging material, I will promote today only these materials, which succeeded after two decades. All other materials I do not mention.

As material I use today the product from Modelkasten.

 

http://store.modelkasten.com/shopbrand/rigging/ 

 

https://hlj.com/search/go?w=modelkasten rigging&view=grid 

 

The 0.6 and 1.5 elastic rigging I use.

Rigging has two faces. One is static, the other ones are control cables.

The static rigging we will watch first.

Here check the landing gear wires. Look for the proper rigging points. If you got it, you may start.

As an example in 1/32: The stretch filament must be fixed at the inaccessible eyelet first. With a knot. Fixed with CA just to secure. Than stretch it tight without using the flexibility of the filament. Than stretch it for 5mm and fix it with a knot. Not more! Because the summary of filaments would cause a tremendous force. Secure it with CA! CA is by all occasions just a tool to secure and never to fix! If you do not believe it, after several years your WW1 a/c should be rigged properly and unharmed.

Always the inaccessible eyelet first!

 

If you go to the wing. Check all rigging points and but your eyelets in before you assemble

1.   The landing gear

2.   Tail wing rigging, if existing

3.   The cabane struts rigging

4.   X wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port

5.   Flying wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double wires, so do both!

6.   Landing wires fuselage to outboard and switch after one box from star to port. If double flying wires, so take care that it runs properly!

7.   Fuselage to wing rigging if present

Happy modelling

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May I display my ignorance please? What do you mean when you refer to "eyelets"? Do you make them yourself? I have a WNW SE5a stalled because I'm afraid of the rigging.

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Yes, I do it by myself!

See the post on eyelets!

Right there

 

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Just about rigging

Today I use my tubes or sleeves, for getting the rigging fixed. Therefore I use a material which I can counter thread. Twice the diameter of the filament must have space in the inner diameter of the tubes.

Look at my model! This is the easiest way to get round. You may also see on the forum a wonderful built AEG from WNW. But the rigging is the most dangerous way, this modeler went on. It is like climbing without a rope.

I prefer the save way, like flying with a radar beam for homing.

If you do this all, you may not know any further and some step. Please ask, if you do not understand it.

I want to give you a save path for WW1 a/c modelling.

Happy modelling

 

I work now without knots.

Roland CII late without knots (dark)

Roland CII early is with knots (bright)

 

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