hendie Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, woodsmoor1 said: Also I seem to remember a static wick bonded to the aluminium strips on the end of the MAD boom. yup, a little sticky-outy-spikey bit right at the end. It can be seen in the photo I linked in post 879 Edited March 20, 2019 by hendie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Thanks Simon, Adrian, Joseph, Tomo and Rob 21 hours ago, hendie said: I seem to remember that those aluminum strips were actually earthing strips, bonded to the airframe to protect the MAD boom in case of lightning strikes. But I could be completely wrong, after all, it was a long, long time ago 18 hours ago, woodsmoor1 said: Also I seem to remember a static wick bonded to the aluminium strips on the end of the MAD boom. 16 hours ago, hendie said: yup, a little sticky-outy-spikey bit right at the end. It can be seen in the photo I linked in post 879 Sticky out, spikey bit will be added at the end. Phew, tough crowd! I ate something nasty last night and was up several times with indigestion. That'll teach me! After settling my stomach and catching up on some sleep I applied some more stencils, working from the tail. #220 are large rectangles over what I assume are engine covers. Aha, I thought, they'll silver, so I cut the carrier around the printed bits on both copies and soaked them. Bad idea: I've scanned the other (also a bit damaged) against a rule and imported it into Inkscape: Screenshot Nimrod Decal by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Can anyone ( @perdu?) please tell me either where I can find an Inkscape tutorial OR how I can copy bits of that scan, mainly the hatch line and the blobs, so that I can create a clean transfer and print replacements? Thanks in advance. 4 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 OOOOPS there Ced, ouch... Sorry I cannot help you on that (It`s the dark Arts) with all those progs. As for the tape around the MAD, it`s gaffa tape to hold it together... Simon. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Ced mate have you tried https://inkscape.org/learn/tutorials/ Just saying... 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 20, 2019 Author Share Posted March 20, 2019 Thanks Simon Thanks Bill, I’ll check those out - apologies for being lazy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 No worries mate, I'm too lazy to work out how to use Inkscape properly myself You will learn it then be able to teach me Won't you 🤞 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickoshea52 Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Re the aluminium strips on the MAD boom, they were also applied to the radome and loral/yellowgate fairings on the wingtips, at least on the MR2’s. The curled up decals replicate the no step areas over the jet pipes, the aircraft skin is pretty thin there. Looking good Ced 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hendie Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 19 minutes ago, Rickoshea52 said: they were also applied to the radome are you sure? I don't remember ever seeing them on the radome. They were very visible on the MAD boom, but I can't remember them on the radome. That said I only ever removed a radome 2 or 3 times - it was a bugger to refit... floppy big thing that it was 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Nice work on the MMaannyy decals MrB. Looking grand. The Destroyed one looked orrible st first glance but I looks like it could be saved. I don’t suppose you still have it?.... no probably not. 😔 If you were using Photo shop you would cut out a straight section of the scanned pic, say a bit of the top line and use that as a brush to make a new top line, same with the sides. Then you would have a straightened image to make a decal. You could spend ages trying to straighten the scan but that would just be a pita. I’m guessing ink scape has a similar cut and payed function but as I remenber now isn’t it a vector program? Might zoom right in and draw the little bits then use those as a vector brush and copy them around? ..... 🤔 guys...... guys....... ok I’ll stop talking now. Whatever you do Ced it’ll be fantabulosa. Johnny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 56 minutes ago, hendie said: floppy big thing that it was I'm surprised that didn't get a @CedB reaction.... 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harley John Posted March 20, 2019 Share Posted March 20, 2019 Great work Ced with the stencils, Your patience and perseverance are to be applauded. I think I'd have gone for some seriously heavy weathering (think Tiger tank stuck in the Russian mud kind of heavy weathering) to cover them! 😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickoshea52 Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 10 hours ago, hendie said: are you sure? I don't remember ever seeing them on the radome. They were very visible on the MAD boom, but I can't remember them on the radome. That said I only ever removed a radome 2 or 3 times - it was a bugger to refit... floppy big thing that it was I’m certain that I saw them on the bottom of the radome so I looked it up and found this photo, it only shows part of them though - 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Just thinking... it it looks like the black lines have a pitch of around 15 per 5mm (or about 75 to the inch) and are angled at 45 deg. If we swing that around so the black lines were not angled, the separation would be .7071 of that (sines and coses, and I’m not explaining that to you lot before breakfast!), or about 100 per inch. Given that your printer ISTR has a resolution of 150 dpi that sounds like a recipe for disaster. If you could print a yellow rectangle containing vertical black lines at a printer-friendly spacing of maybe 50 per inch you could leave the yellow space twice the black line width, which should leave you some yellow even after allowing for bleed. Print a square of that (35mm plus sides to get a 45mm diagonal) onto white decal paper and then cut out diagonal strips? I’m going to try it out at home after my shower because it sounds more interesting than being early for work! The shoes with red crosses sound easy enough to do with an oval and a couple of red lines on clear. The background is probably light enough to let the translucent red work. Regards, Adrian 1 1 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Anything's better than being early for work I would say making a generic stripes panel is the way forward here Adrian, good thinking (Sineseses, cosignuses and rhomboloids, scary scary stuff. The very stuff of schoolboy nightmares for me and there you are rattling it all off as if t'were normal in conversation, as my eighteen year old grandson might say. Respect Adrian! Where do I sign up for lessons?) Ced, back on the trail my printer will do reasonable resolution if you can cope with inkjetted things... 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Right then: Rectangle drawn in PowerPoint, lines 0.5 point. I started by drawing a bigger shape so I could align the lines more evenly and then scaled down. I printed directly from PowerPoint to a Canon MG5750 inkjet, which is nothing out of the ordinary. This is plain paper but it proves the concept I think. I will send you the PowerPoint file FWIW. Regards, Adrian Time to get dressed and go to work now 7 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andwil Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 A picture is worth a thousand words! AW 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 As we say in the circuss That's the way to do it That's the way to do it 👍👍👍👍 👏👏👏👏👏 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 1 hour ago, perdu said: Sineseses, cosignuses and rhomboloids, scary scary stuff My sineseses are awfully bunged up this morning,... K 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 What @AdrianMF said. That’s the path of least resistance right there. 😎 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 Before I get on to answering posts and updating progress, a short intermission if I may. Being a modeller has changed my view of the world and, more importantly, the things in the world. This morning I decided to change the filter and earpiece bit on one of my hearing aids - 'What?' I hear you ask… see, they do work The filters are changed using a cunningly designed tool that removes the old filter and lets you insert the new one with ease: The question, of course, is should I keep them? What for? Because 'they might some in'? The earpiece thingies do come in a packet that WILL be used for paint trays later: Recycling? Owned it bruv. 3 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Looks like a perfectly decent set of Blenheim turrets to me guv... [edit] if you hadn;t been so heavy handed pushing the filters out! 1 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 13 hours ago, perdu said: No worries mate, I'm too lazy to work out how to use Inkscape properly myself You will learn it then be able to teach me Won't you 🤞 Done Bill, see below 13 hours ago, Rickoshea52 said: Re the aluminium strips on the MAD boom, they were also applied to the radome and loral/yellowgate fairings on the wingtips, at least on the MR2’s. The curled up decals replicate the no step areas over the jet pipes, the aircraft skin is pretty thin there. Looking good Ced 12 hours ago, hendie said: are you sure? I don't remember ever seeing them on the radome. They were very visible on the MAD boom, but I can't remember them on the radome. That said I only ever removed a radome 2 or 3 times - it was a bugger to refit... floppy big thing that it was 2 hours ago, Rickoshea52 said: I’m certain that I saw them on the bottom of the radome so I looked it up and found this photo, it only shows part of them though - [snip photo] Thanks Rick and Hendie, more great detail At this point though I shall put my fingers in my ears and go la la la OR, more deviously, claim that it was an MR2 mod No, there isn't a stencil for it, I checked! 12 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Nice work on the MMaannyy decals MrB. Looking grand. The Destroyed one looked orrible st first glance but I looks like it could be saved. I don’t suppose you still have it?.... no probably not. 😔 If you were using Photo shop you would cut out a straight section of the scanned pic, say a bit of the top line and use that as a brush to make a new top line, same with the sides. Then you would have a straightened image to make a decal. You could spend ages trying to straighten the scan but that would just be a pita. I’m guessing ink scape has a similar cut and payed function but as I remenber now isn’t it a vector program? Might zoom right in and draw the little bits then use those as a vector brush and copy them around? ..... 🤔 guys...... guys....... ok I’ll stop talking now. Whatever you do Ced it’ll be fantabulosa. Johnny Thanks Johnny The photo was after I'd attempted to save the durned thing so new ones to be made (see below) 11 hours ago, keefr22 said: I'm surprised that didn't get a @CedB reaction.... What? Where? Well caught Keith - fnaar! 11 hours ago, Harley John said: Great work Ced with the stencils, Your patience and perseverance are to be applauded. I think I'd have gone for some seriously heavy weathering (think Tiger tank stuck in the Russian mud kind of heavy weathering) to cover them! 😁 Thanks John, appreciated. 1 hour ago, AdrianMF said: Just thinking... it it looks like the black lines have a pitch of around 15 per 5mm (or about 75 to the inch) and are angled at 45 deg. If we swing that around so the black lines were not angled, the separation would be .7071 of that (sines and coses, and I’m not explaining that to you lot before breakfast!), or about 100 per inch. Given that your printer ISTR has a resolution of 150 dpi that sounds like a recipe for disaster. If you could print a yellow rectangle containing vertical black lines at a printer-friendly spacing of maybe 50 per inch you could leave the yellow space twice the black line width, which should leave you some yellow even after allowing for bleed. Print a square of that (35mm plus sides to get a 45mm diagonal) onto white decal paper and then cut out diagonal strips? I’m going to try it out at home after my shower because it sounds more interesting than being early for work! The shoes with red crosses sound easy enough to do with an oval and a couple of red lines on clear. The background is probably light enough to let the translucent red work. Regards, Adrian 1 hour ago, perdu said: Anything's better than being early for work I would say making a generic stripes panel is the way forward here Adrian, good thinking (Sineseses, cosignuses and rhomboloids, scary scary stuff. The very stuff of schoolboy nightmares for me and there you are rattling it all off as if t'were normal in conversation, as my eighteen year old grandson might say. Respect Adrian! Where do I sign up for lessons?) Ced, back on the trail my printer will do reasonable resolution if you can cope with inkjetted things... 1 hour ago, AdrianMF said: Right then: Rectangle drawn in PowerPoint, lines 0.5 point. I started by drawing a bigger shape so I could align the lines more evenly and then scaled down. I printed directly from PowerPoint to a Canon MG5750 inkjet, which is nothing out of the ordinary. This is plain paper but it proves the concept I think. I will send you the PowerPoint file FWIW. Regards, Adrian Time to get dressed and go to work now Adrian that's BRILLIANT! Thanks very much - stored (in my unreliable memory) for later use. Thanks Bill for the offer too - I'm OK for printers here thanks but very kind of you, as usual 1 hour ago, Andwil said: A picture is worth a thousand words! AW 1 hour ago, perdu said: As we say in the circuss That's the way to do it That's the way to do it 👍👍👍👍 👏👏👏👏👏 15 minutes ago, keefr22 said: My sineseses are awfully bunged up this morning,... K 8 minutes ago, The Spadgent said: What @AdrianMF said. That’s the path of least resistance right there. 😎 Thanks AW, Bill, Keith and Johnny - sadly too late an idea as I'd already done some learnin' (see below) 2 minutes ago, AdrianMF said: Looks like a perfectly decent set of Blenheim turrets to me guv... [edit] if you hadn;t been so heavy handed pushing the filters out! See? You're doing it too! I did think 'Anson' but hey, horses for courses eh? Next post for progress! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 If you're not interested in software, skip this post and use Adrian's much more elegant method above So, what have I learned? Inkscape can't manipulate images other than resizing, cropping and moving the bits around in an image. It CAN, however, use an image as a fill pattern. Explained here. Aha! As Adrian thought the crossed out boot was easy - ellipse with two red lines arranged appropriately. The lines weren't so easy - I had to crop a bit of the scan and, after version one, recolour the red in Gimp. Once that was done I imported it into Inkscape and used it to fill long thin rectangles. Tip: draw the edge rectangles first, fill with the pattern and then rotate them or the pattern will go left to right instead of up and down, if you see what I mean. It worked after only a few hours: 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 They're on! on Flickr Almost the same colour as the kit ones next to them. Top stencils finished: Time to tidy up a bit: Just the side ones to do now. Getting there! 20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perdu Posted March 21, 2019 Share Posted March 21, 2019 Really really top job Ced As for almost the same colour, well I'd suggest that a certain helicopter build a couple of pages away demonstrates that 'almost the same colour' is a fairly normal state of affairs in military circles Did I mention, a really top job? 😉 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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