Modeling after more than 25 years.

[Miguel Rivero]

Codger, the fenders y apply Molotow Liquid Chrome, I used air brush, my concern is with handlic the finish, do not know if the finish is stong enough for finger prints or sow, do not know if a clear coat can be applay and how will react! Any feed back/recomendatin from any member will be appreciated. Even I can say so far that Molotow Liquid Chrome is the close as posible to Chrome plated. I like the looking, but handling?

[Codger]

10 hours ago, Miguel Rivero said:

Codger, the fenders y apply Molotow Liquid Chrome, I used air brush, my concern is with handlic the finish, do not know if the finish is stong enough for finger prints or sow, do not know if a clear coat can be applay and how will react! Any feed back/recomendatin from any member will be appreciated. Even I can say so far that Molotow Liquid Chrome is the close as posible to Chrome plated. I like the looking, but handling?

DO NOT CLEAR COAT. That will completely change the finish.

 

Depending how long ago you applied the Molotow is should be very good to handle. To be safe  - handle as little as possible and always wear cotton or latex gloves. Test a small area , like a tire sidemount well or under fender or other hidden area.

 

The best finish for it comes when applied to bare black plastic that has been polished.

[Miguel Rivero]

The liquid crhome, was applied at least 5 days ago!

How can I polish it is any?

hava agreat sunday!

[Miguel Rivero]

I shoud ask, how should I tqke care of any finger prints or affected areas?, 

I wil handle it with care and test as you suggested!

regardss

[Codger]

51 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

I shoud ask, how should I tqke care of any finger prints or affected areas?, 

I wil handle it with care and test as you suggested!

regardss

You can't polish it. It should remain just as it came out of airbrush. Removing fingerprints I think is almost impossible BUT:

 

Try this; on a TEST piece of plastic or old small model, spray Molotow. Let dry a day then remove it with isopropyl alcohol. If it removes cleanly you can respray. On the Rolls it would be best to do a whole panel this way if it works - not just a spot repair.

[Miguel Rivero]

I will try, thanks for the advice! 

I thought that probably I will end up repainting the complete panel.

Metalizer paints are very difficult to spot fix, it is better to do the whole panel, that is correct.

 

Thanks.

Miguel.

[Codger]

On 11/11/2018 at 3:16 PM, Miguel Rivero said:

I will try, thanks for the advice! 

I thought that probably I will end up repainting the complete panel.

Metalizer paints are very difficult to spot fix, it is better to do the whole panel, that is correct.

 

Thanks.

Miguel.

I hope this build is not lost in your work cars, tin toy models and all the other recent projects you've found...

[Miguel Rivero]

Codger,  I do have plans to finish the RR and also work out all the other projects that were left behind many years a go!

May plans will be. first to run in parallel the RR and the Duesenberg, because this last one I think will be a great Chrismas present for my father!! don´t you think?, second phase, will continue working in the projects open and I will finish all of them sooner or later. 

Regards

Edited November 22, 2018 by Miguel Rivero
wording.

[Miguel Rivero]

On 08/11/2018 at 09:05, Codger said:

Miguel, welcome to the forum - it's great to have a fellow Rolls builder here!

 

Your work of 25 years ago is wonderful and I'm glad you are motivated to continue. There were several quality Rolls Pochers here but sadly most did not continue.

 

You have discovered that many accessories have improved over the years and the Molotow is one of them. If you are not familiar, the ModelMotorcars web site is a great inspiration and supplier of custom parts.

 

For further incentive to continue I can show you a very advanced build by my friend David Cox of 188 PY. The Star of India car, seen here.

 

 

If you have patience, you can study the 74 page (too long!) thread of my custom coach Sedanca. Sadly most of the photos were lost due to  a change by the hosting site but towards the end of the thread, I found another host and there are some shots there. I hope the text for the advanced techniques is helpful.  Here is the car and here is the thread link.

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234961409-a-big-rolls-royce/&

 

Please continue as I look forward to your work.

C

Codger, I being reading the thread (boring with no photos) and I have not being able to find detail of the painting job on the RR, without photos it is very difficult and thedious to read all, please would you sumirize the painting process in the chrome specially, did you used liquid chrome? interested to hear your process. Also I see you had paint fully the wheel covers, I have seen the original and it has a body color strap in the covers, was that the intention.

Regards

[Codger]

13 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

Codger, I being reading the thread (boring with no photos) and I have not being able to find detail of the painting job on the RR, without photos it is very difficult and thedious to read all, please would you sumirize the painting process in the chrome specially, did you used liquid chrome? interested to hear your process. Also I see you had paint fully the wheel covers, I have seen the original and it has a body color strap in the covers, was that the intention.

Regards

There is some confusion my friend which I will attempt to clarify.

My car is the lower picture - the maroon and cream 2 door Sedanca.

My friend David Cox built the orange 'Star' car, chassis # 188-PY. Here are the paint details of it that I know. The body color is called 'Saffron', the original color. David had it custom color matched in automotive synthetic enamel and put in 12oz. spray cans. It is primed in the normal manner of light gray primer.

The fenders are vacuum plated - not painted. They were done either by Chrometech or the Little Motorcar Company, I forget which. It was very expensive because of the large parts - 4 hood panels the fender units and the wheel covers. David finished 2 covers in Saffron and the 2 you see in chrome - the real car is displayed with alternate sets done this way. Here is the other side with the alternate discs and 3 detail pictures to hopefully help you.

 

 

 

[Miguel Rivero]

4 minutes ago, Codger said:

There is some confusion my friend which I will attempt to clarify.

My car is the lower picture - the maroon and cream 2 door Sedanca.

My friend David Cox built the orange 'Star' car, chassis # 188-PY. Here are the paint details of it that I know. The body color is called 'Saffron', the original color. David had it custom color matched in automotive synthetic enamel and put in 12oz. spray cans. It is primed in the normal manner of light gray primer.

The fenders are vacuum plated - not painted. They were done either by Chrometech or the Little Motorcar Company, I forget which. It was very expensive because of the large parts - 4 hood panels the fender units and the wheel covers. David finished 2 covers in Saffron and the 2 you see in chrome - the real car is displayed with alternate sets done this way. Here is the other side with the alternate discs and 3 detail pictures to hopefully help you.

 

 

 

Thanks! you clariy me my confusion, Yes yours it the Sedaca!

Regarding your friend Cox ( by the way I had a friend name Francis Cox use to work for GM in America), what I understand is that he had painted the wheel covers in such a manner that he can choose and select to have a different aperance!  On the other hand I see that has lighting all over the vheicle, will you be able to share some of that information, I think I can work it out, I thought to use leds to makin it work that way, that is something I think will add value to my project. 

Thanks again for your help and comments.

pd I think this kind of discussions makes the hobby much more pleseant, don't you think?

 

Regards.

 

[Miguel Rivero]

Taking some time to see the detail of David Cox car, there is A LOT  of details like the windshield, the side drawers, window handles, window frames, what else? Is there a way I can get detail on David´s project, it sounds greate chalenge to me!!

Great work David!!! hat's off!

[Homerlovesbeer]

Well this sure is some amazeball skills! Following with much interest 😁👍

[Codger]

9 minutes ago, Homerlovesbeer said:

Well this sure is some amazeball skills! Following with much interest 😁👍

Important to remember that this is Miguel's thread and build. I've shown David's car only as reference and inspiration.

[Codger]

30 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

Taking some time to see the detail of David Cox car, there is A LOT  of details like the windshield, the side drawers, window handles, window frames, what else? Is there a way I can get detail on David´s project, it sounds greate chalenge to me!!

Great work David!!! hat's off!

I will contact David (he's not a forum member here) and find out best way to get information to you.

Virtually all the details you just mentioned are custom made by Cox. The drawers, wood work, leather, window frames (described how in my thread) landau irons and top mechanism all custom. A small number are bronze castings from Model Motorcars Ltd.

That boring build thread you're reading is mine on the Sedanca. But many of David's advanced techniques were employed there and you can read them. They apply to both cars.

Edited November 23, 2018 by Codger

[Homerlovesbeer]

1 hour ago, Codger said:

Important to remember that this is Miguel's thread and build. I've shown David's car only as reference and inspiration.

 

Oh yes I know but from what you've shown I'm sure yours we be sensational also 

[Miguel Rivero]

5 hours ago, Codger said:

I will contact David (he's not a forum member here) and find out best way to get information to you.

Virtually all the details you just mentioned are custom made by Cox. The drawers, wood work, leather, window frames (described how in my thread) landau irons and top mechanism all custom. A small number are bronze castings from Model Motorcars Ltd.

That boring build thread you're reading is mine on the Sedanca. But many of David's advanced techniques were employed there and you can read them. They apply to both cars.

Do not get me wrong, I mean boaring is because with the lack of pictures there is missing a lot of things, remember a picture is worth more than 1000 words! My appologies by using the boring in your thread, and I did not want to give you hard time, I think that you have done a GREAT work doing the thread along you go with your Sedaca.

 

If you contac David and if he wants to share the information I will really appreciate. Yes it is obvious that must of the work was custom made, yes there is a great amount of details in his car. As I mentioned  I`m iterested in the lighting of his car, I want to do something like that. Also I have seen that the windows frames are expectacular, so I'm giving a thought on them too.   Windshield work is late for the way it is my model, but something else might come to my mind and I will think to see if I can work some other opportunities for my model.

 

Thanks again and my appologies , never was my intention to have demerited your work, on the contrary it is very valuable for those of us who have the opportunity to read it and learn from it.

 

Have a great friday!

[Jo NZ]

Being very very very very nit-picky on the photos of David's "Star"...the auxiliary headlamps in front of the grille are cable driven to turn with the front wheels, so they should point in the same direction as the wheels. It is totally awesome though.

Another thing that I discovered when I photographed the car at the Coventry Motor Museum sometime last century - the bonnet won't open fully, it fouls on the Spirit of the Wind mascot which has to be turned to face backwards.

Well I needed pictures of the engine bay....

[Codger]

First; to both Miguel and Jo; there is NO offense taken about my 'boring' thread - you're right in that it's 70+ pages long and I write too many sermons!

 

I'll attempt to answer questions to both here.

Miguel- the window frames are described in my thread and here's some idea of what is done. The glass is all .040 Lexan which fits perfectly into 3/32 square channel brass tubing. Patterns are made and the angles of the brass are all hand fit as they are seldom 90 degree joins. They are soldered with silver solder being careful not to fill the channels and block the Lexan. Curves are made in the windshield corners with kerfs filled with solder and filed. Not fun. When done building them they are polished with very fine grits up to 8000 to get all marks, polished then sent to chrome plating.

The first view shows all the brass in the door (with latch mechanism) which had to be scratch built thinner than stock and to different contours of my modified body.

W'shield mock up. Top was chopped 5mm:

Final results;

Jo; Correct about the turning lights on David's build - I believe these might as many of his models are built with steerable, working lights.

The Spirit of Ecstasy mascot on mine rotates 90 degrees to clear an open hood panel seen here:

Any questions gladly answered.

C

 

[Miguel Rivero]

These photos are incedible!

For the windows frame, I like it very much, I can see that I can work out some to replace the 3/32 square tubing, but something will come to my mind and I might probably find another way of doing it. You mention that the windows frames were chromed but I can use liquid chrome for it or use chrome covering from 3M.

The amount of detail and hand work done! also I´m impress with the weathering in the engine, it looks real, electrical connectors, hose clamps.

Also I do have to work out the lighting, did you had specific lighting in the Sedaca like David's car?

GREAT INFORMATION! Thanks for sharing.

Great day!

[Codger]

5 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

Also I do have to work out the lighting, did you had specific lighting in the Sedaca like David's car?

GREAT INFORMATION! Thanks for sharing.

Great day!

No Miguel, no lights  for me. I was already at the limits of my skills without them. Plus, I had radically shortened, sloped and chopped the trunk, the place where David puts his batteries on Sedancas and Ambassadors.

[Miguel Rivero]

For the wiring I'm planning to wire it up down through the case base so after it is in the christal box can be turned on from the base and not to play around with the covering. But that is the plan, I´m thinking and looking for alternatives.

Having this conversations realy motivates to continue thinking and bringing up new and good ideas.

 

 

[Codger]

48 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

For the wiring I'm planning to wire it up down through the case base so after it is in the christal box can be turned on from the base and not to play around with the covering. But that is the plan, I´m thinking and looking for alternatives.

Having this conversations realy motivates to continue thinking and bringing up new and good ideas.

 

 

Your plan is a good one. Cox wires all his cars differently - to switches in the shifter, brake pedal or dashboard - or all three.

[Miguel Rivero]

57 minutes ago, Codger said:

Your plan is a good one. Cox wires all his cars differently - to switches in the shifter, brake pedal or dashboard - or all three.

Wow! The issue with that way of working lights is that he will be the ONLY ONE to make it work! 

Very interesting

There is allways 1000 ways to do the same.  Mine, may not be the best! Learning from others can help you think out of the box and have fresh ideas!

[Miguel Rivero]

5 hours ago, Codger said:

Important to remember that this is Miguel's thread and build. I've shown David's car only as reference and inspiration.

Thanks Codger, never the less, it is very important to have great refferences where we can learn from, and any recomendations are very well welcome at any time.

To the way my car is, I might not do to much to the body itself I think I can work out the lights, have some detail around but not to much, I think it is too late to think on rebuilding the vehcile, even taking apart many things can be damaged and will have a severe risk. 

From what I have seen I think I will slow down a little, look around all the information I got and then, define a plan and then come back to finish the vehicle, in the mean time I can do other things around the vehicle, like defining the case for it, it will made out of christal clear and wood and of course lighting will be the issue, for the case and providing the power to light the vehicle.

Any project like this will require more thinking than the one I thought before, but looking to the information I have seen came to me too late and I will have to work it out.

 

Regards.