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Modeling after more than 25 years.


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After more than 25 years of not doing any modeling I'm getting back with a model I left in 1993.

To start some discussion I will go from where I'm today and will do some revisions to my project as when I restarded back again.

As I said, first I will show you as it is today, in future days I will show some of the activity I've done in the past  6 weeks since I started.

This is where it is today

0f20bd3e-c3fa-4b11-9200-acd09d889501.jpg

1bada74a-8a0a-4dad-b39f-90cba6cde2b9.jpg

Pictures are to big, but I will work it out for future updates and information.

Yes, it is a RR Phantom Torpedo from Pocher. I left it on 1993 and after many years not many parts were missing but needed to be worked out.  As I said I will go in future days to share the way I work it out from the day I restarded again.

I can tell you that the seats are real leader as well as the carpet and if you can see the windows are done in real glass.

Welcome any comments and or suggestions!

Happy building

 

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Welcome aboard Miguel.

 

That is a fine looking Roller, indeed. There are many Pocher experts on here (sadly, I'm not one of them), so you've definitely come to the right place.

 

I look forward to seeing more.

More pics please:D

 

Cheers, H

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Recently the IMAC in Mexico happen on mid October and I was very happy to go there and see what the Mexican modelers were building/doing, and I always had the problem with chrome, so talking to people they told me about Molotow Liquid Chrome so I got one sample and work it out in some of my parts for the RR. 

Here you can see the original looking of the parts as they came in the kit.

ba144739-0d8d-4e2f-b6d0-672531236b1e.jpg 7dd8fdcd-7df7-4197-9a13-673400f0ac44.jpg

and here are the parts after Liquid Chrome was applied with an airbrush, BIG DIFFERENCE, ISN´T IT?

Have any of you had experience with the handling of parts where Liquid Chrome was applied? It is my concern.

I will share more of what I have done so far in the next days.

Happy building!

 

 

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Miguel, welcome to the forum - it's great to have a fellow Rolls builder here!

 

Your work of 25 years ago is wonderful and I'm glad you are motivated to continue. There were several quality Rolls Pochers here but sadly most did not continue.

 

You have discovered that many accessories have improved over the years and the Molotow is one of them. If you are not familiar, the ModelMotorcars web site is a great inspiration and supplier of custom parts.

 

For further incentive to continue I can show you a very advanced build by my friend David Cox of 188 PY. The Star of India car, seen here.

 

Ye.jpg

 

If you have patience, you can study the 74 page (too long!) thread of my custom coach Sedanca. Sadly most of the photos were lost due to  a change by the hosting site but towards the end of the thread, I found another host and there are some shots there. I hope the text for the advanced techniques is helpful.  Here is the car and here is the thread link.

5-1933p2contsidehouse-1200-2.jpg

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234961409-a-big-rolls-royce/&

 

Please continue as I look forward to your work.

C

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Codger, thanks!

The two models are impresive, I do not think I will get to that detail due to some early mistakes I made in my model, but be sure that the way it is going I will feel proud of my work.

I see that being in a group like this will learn a lot. 

FYI Modeling is not my only hobby, I do Astronomy and I'm rebuilding a 1962 220 MB, aslo I did some RC Helicopter (not any more!), so after some personal analysis I decided to stay with modeling, Astronomy and my MB.

I will try to keep posting as my progress goes.

 

Regards.

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You have my respect for your skill set. I built and flew 1/4 RC aircraft in the '80's and can't do that anymore either!

 

Your 1:1 experience with the 220 will be valuable building and finishing this Rolls. I offered the two examples only as incentive because now that you're building again, there may be more Pochers in your future! 😎

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Codger, once more, thanks! and appreciate your words.

RC was fun, I started with cars, pass to airplanes (fun to do acrobatics), but Heli was something, but with my 63 years old RC is over.

1:1 is a good reference for my models, and even I can tell you I own a Mechanical shop and run it every day, I do the work, reason why I end up with the 220.

Great day!

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3 minutes ago, Miguel Rivero said:

1:1 is a good reference for my models, and even I can tell you I own a Mechanical shop and run it every day, I do the work, reason why I end up with the 220.

Great day!

We apparently have much in common my friend. I built and raced that little blue thing in my signature for 27 years.

 

But I am more advanced than you - in age - not a good thing...:confused:

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Codger, I started to look in to your thread link, I can tell you that it is being a night mear to build the kit with the Pocher instructions only and very limited or none reference till now.

You go in to the problem to assm the wheels, and the SoI (Star of India) has 6 and I was able to assm them and after the 25 years in the shelf I end up havving 2 wheels to have the center hub loose, so you can think what it happen and I end up having to re-aasm those two wheels.

May SoI as of today has many problems and as you say in your thread, it will end up in a cristal case somy will excibit it in the best way possible, because it has some problems like doors willnot close due to a interference problems, reason why in the photos postes the doors are open, so I will have to take advantage of hte situation of the model to show the veauty of it.

From what I hav read/seen so far, des-assm the model at this point will be almost imposible unfutunatly, if I had involved may paricipation in this forum or any other reference before it would be another story.

To be,honest I'm glad I re-started the model again and wantes to be finish and able to display it.

Thanks for your feed back and encouraging words!

Have agreat week end! 

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I would like to share some of what I being working in the SoI (Star of India).

As I had left the model in a self for many years and and not cover at all, you will imagen how the model was, bery dirty, so a cleaning process started.

The model as I restarted look like this;

7d631ed8-52ac-4568-a604-8796bdc0ef84.jpg

I had to make a stand to work on it, as you can see the stand was made out of a Great wine box. This way I was able to clean as much as I was able. The problem is that the chassiss was assm with some components and cleaning was not easy. In the process I end up with two wheels being affected because the central hub was loose and I had to re-do those wheels, never the less it was chalenging and help me to warm engine to restart the assm process again.

Here is a picture of the wheel recent assm process

46245728-c8cf-48ad-93e4-f74d98627bf2.jpg

There are MANY things to share!

To be able to re-start the modeling back I had to set up a working table to work on my models so I used my father old working table (he is a civil engineer, retired, he is still with us with 89 years old, Yes I'm lucky) and here is part of my working area of course with the SoI;

40a3b066-5b4a-4790-a3cc-cb1a01007b8f.jpg

You can see the leader on the lower right side that I used to cover the seats and part of the door panels.

Well I see that is enough for today, I do not want to get you boaring.

 

I hope that my thread does not get boaring at all, if it does please do not hesitate say so!

To all, have a great week end and hope wonderfull modeling time.

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Miguel,

I will try to be helpful with some construction photos of mine. These are probably not in the thread I gave you because they were lost by that host.

 

I can see right away you're working under difficult conditions but a major help would be for you to make or buy work stands like these. The picture is a diagram of all the changes to the body I made but the stands are where 90% of the work on the car took place. You can make these simple stands of wood or aluminum or buy from ModelMotorcars. Remove the wheels and insert the axle stubs into holes in the stands. These stands are tall enough so that you can invert the car to work on the bottom without contact with the bench top. You can slip a wheel over the stub on the stand, here I am checking the rear height of the wheel in the fender.

CAPTION-7.jpg

 

I noticed your firewall and include mine to show how much detailing one can do with good reference. Much of this is visible when in the car if you make the hood panels opening:

CAPTION-11.jpg

 

Glad to answer any questions I can. A good source of information is the Rolls Royce gallery of customer models on ModelMotorcars website. Also you can purchase a Paul Koo CD disc of complete construction steps and modifications.

C

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Codger, great tips, I will make a stand and have some changes to it, because I do have the model in to the following stage:c7d229df-c59d-4b03-b199-ef1294f31483.jpg

I might be too late for some modifications and/or dis-assm some components. I had a night mare putting the fenders in place due to the rolling limitations I had.

Do not know if it will be worth to dis-assm parts that will be damage by just removing them!, would it worth it?

 

PD. The door windows are real glass, did you noticed?

Thanks.

 

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Great firewall!!

Some photos were lost in your thread, I will continue reading it, for sure I will be able to pick up some good stuff.

Thanks.

Edited by Miguel Rivero
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Two suggestions:

About fitting the doors; try to remove the hinge pins by pushing them (up or down) with an equally thin steel wire to drive them out. Then the doors will be free to sand and trim their edges and touch up with paint. When done, replace with common sewing pins of about .028" diameter. Install with the heads up and trim the length after they are in the hinge. They will allow the doors to move easily and also be much easier to remove. I did this on mine.

 

About the wheels; if you can't repair the hubs of the two damaged wheels, use them as the side mount spares.

 

Your thread is NOT boring. :D

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Codger, for the doors looks to be feasible, for the wheels I do not have a problem, they are OK, the only thing that happen was that with the time the hubs got stuck with the axle and when I try to remove them I loose them and end up having a bunch of pieces in the table!

Thanks.

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Oh boy Miguel, you’re making Codger a happy guy with this Rolls! 

Codger has pretty much mastered the building and modifications on the Pocher Rolls; my advice is this. If you are in doubt and are having any problem with any part or section of your build, I would take it apart and follow Codger’s advice on the best way to assemble or re-assemble that section. 

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Miguel - Wayne is too generous with compliments- do not follow his advice. :nono:  But if there's something I can answer, I will.  :)

 

I did notice the real glass, commendably thin. I used .040 Lexan which is crystal clear (if you handle carefully) and made brass frames for the windshield and side glass which I had chromed. The method can be seen in my thread.

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Miguel,

I'm admiring your finish on the fenders - very accurate to the polished aluminum original. How did you apply? Is that sprayed Molotow chrome?

 

David Cox who built the India car seen above had all his bright parts vacuum plated chrome (like the kit manufacturers use) to dazzling effect. Very expensive for these big parts but stunning. He also had the crests 3D printed for the doors.

PRINCE-4500-4-1-2.jpg

 

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