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FE.2b Early

 

My next project is the FE.2b early of Wingnut Wings in 1/32.

The machine will be the FE.2b with the number 6352 “Baroda 15” from 23 Squadron in March 1916. His opponent was Immelmann, with his Fokker E.II I will build it afterwards.

Until now, I did not find an original photo of this machine. If someone has a photo of this machine, so please put it into the forum. That would make me very happy about it. If somebody has the book about the FE2b from Cross & Cockade, which is out of stock, and the pdf not ready yet. Maybe.

One thing more: You suggestion for the top color PC8. What did you use in opposite to PC10?

In Hendon, RAF museum, I only saw the black FE.2b.

 

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Happy modelling

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I have never heard of PC8. PC 10 or 12 were the usual finishes but I don't think (although I stand to be corrected) that 12 was used on the FE2.

 

Ian

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PC8 is rather like later RAF Light Earth or Mid-stone. afair it was used on aircraft used in Palestine and it was the main colour in Europe until PC10 & 12 took over in 1916

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Sounds like you're referring to clear doped linen. I don't think there was a "colour" before PC10. 

 

Ian

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Hallo, Black Knight,

Thanks for your proposal. It is according to my intention. I just needed a verification.

 

Happy modelling

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Hallo again

This time I started actual building my model. I had the idea to get on with real wood. In the way as I already experienced it after a long fight with very expensive aftermarket products.

My goal is to achieve a very high quality of modeling with not expensive material. Just to buy it in a paint or color shop. You will see all the paint I used.

To tell it clearly, this idea is from the WingNutWings website. However, the procedure is a mess. Everything what is not used promptly has to leave the workbench. Get the way clear for cleaning your hands afterward!

So lets go spraying in different shades of basic brown. Whatever you like. Afterward take a sponge as I showed in on the photo. A new one from the kitchen. Cut it in a manageable size. Put oil color on the sponge with the soft side. Then start rubbing the brown wood surface. For managing the corners, take a brush with stiff hair.

 

Do not use any dilutor for this process.

 

Stop the procedure, when the outcome satisfies you. You may have seen, no part was glued in advance. If you would do so, you cannot get in the edges of the glued parts.

Now get your workbench and all tools and your body and fingers in a clean shape again. Wonderful wood without decal and Ushi.

 

 

 

 

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Be patient. Do not touch it for at least three days. Than we will give all parts a gloss varnish before doing anything else.

Happy modelling

 

 

 

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I do not wish to be critical of what you have done, but I have found that oil paints are very good for getting wood finishes. They are easy to apply with a brush and can be dried in a warm cupboard over 3-4 days. Then I use clear orange varnish - the effect is as good as any I have seen.

 

Just an alternative suggestion that does not require cleaning of hands when you have finished.

 

P

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Hallo again

My intention is to show the wood grain in scale. I did not get this result by brush. The distance of the fine lines was too big. Therefore I changed to the sponge.

You may see the photos.

There are two WNW a/c from my husband.

And two actual a/c in the workshop. The Albatros without clear vanish and the sailing plane with a dark clear vanish.

 

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Happy modeling

 

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Nice work on the wood grain!

 

Are those oils or acrylics? I found oil drying time was more like 1 or 2 weeks.

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Here are a couple of completed TVAL aircraft for reference to show the 1:1 varnished finish:

35511540322_4d9b48c0e1_c.jpg72E7C90E-F5A9-4241-B07F-FCB6D3F5BB1B_zps4b008dyw by Zac Yates, on Flickr

35680421585_f8c303da4b_c.jpgF2594391-1C20-41FB-8528-6373CAF48153_zpsvn2sxb3x by Zac Yates, on Flickr

35550268491_5faca45fd3_c.jpg03BD2EA3-2B35-469A-95EA-83F40A6DD38E_zpsrox3mhgn by Zac Yates, on Flickr

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Hallo again

 

My colors are artists oil paints. Without dilution. As I mentioned above, the grain you get only with a sponge, with a brush it is not in scale! (My opinion)

The models you see in my post, are my husbands one. This two are the very first with this technique.

There is for this a/c with such a short lifetime, no weathering neccessary. Panel lines my have some distance, a shade may ocure, or some dirt. Albatros a/c are different from building as any other a/c. In WW1 are many different ways in production, and each a/c has a different situation. So you may see, what I will do in future. I have to grasp.

 

Happy modelling

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Hallo again

As you may see, I painted all my prepared wooden parts and sprayed them with clear varnish C 46. The detail work as a big amount, specially the masking for the dashboard. The description in the instruction is fairly good and pleasant to work with. Guessing is at minimum.

The harness from HGW is assembled and got a gloss varnish. Weathering and oil is ahead.

Assembling the fuselage and decaling the dashboard is ahead.

 

 

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Happy modelling 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Hallo again

Now after a short break of a few days I continued the front fuselage of my Fe2b. Decaling and assembling and internal rigging were my goals. I achieved them all quite easily, due to the excellent quality of WNW kit and my experience.

The rigging was a brisk thing, but I drilled with a 0.2mm drill with pitot shaft from Tamiya. This drill is a most important tool.

The monofill from Modelkasten in Japan, 0.6 = 0.13mm.

 

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Happy modelling

 

 

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Brava! That looks quite realistic! I love the seat belts; something I struggle with...

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Very nicely done so far! The wood effect is fantastic, as is the other colours used and the internal rigging.

 

Inspiring!!

 

DennisTheBear

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Hallo again

Now I sprayed and painted many small parts. All interior, engine as well as the external parts necessary to finish the main fuselage completely.

The engine has two main colors. Aluminum and copper. Here I used C8, Alclad copper, and Alclad steel. I did not use the primer, since C8 from Mr. Hobby does not need it at all. Some other colors like black and brass, white I painted or brushed.

The engine I assembled. The installation I will do with the other assembly parts after decaling.

 

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Happy modelling

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Hallo again

Actually, I took a break during the holydays.

What I have to tell you:

The completion of the fuselage is actually straightforward. Nothing special to add. Before adding the gear, I made eyelets for all static rigging points on the fuselage. They are self-made, and it is really easy to do it.

 

 

 

After application of all decals and stencils I added the gear. And rigged it right afterwards.

 

 

 

The next step is analyzing the static rigging of the whole a/c. To understand the different planes of rigging. At the fuselage:

1.   Top plane

2.   Bottom plane

3.   Right plane

4.   Left plane

5.   Cross plane

The control cables are led via pulleys. There is some work on the detail, so you can use them properly. Specially the two pulleys for the elevator on the top wing must be drilled carefully.

All tools are explained in detail at the two articles from the forum. So read it carefully!

Well, that is it.

 

 

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Happy modelling 

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Hallo again

Now I did all the woodwork on the struts and propeller and fuselage booms. The oil I used the same way as I did before on the front fuselage. So, after carefully doing it and waiting approximately for one week I could do some GX 112, clear gloss varnish. Painting and spraying followed. It was lots of work, just to add: All necessary drilling for eyelets at the boom was before using oil, also the complete dry fit of elevator and rudder.

Stencils at the struts I added. For the boom: I did not use the decals for bandage, I sprayed it. Just to prevent loosening it during assembling.

Black and aluminum I painted by brush. The area around the front top pulley at the tail boom I sprayed.

 

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GDOZDRT.jpg

 

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Happy modelling

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I have just stumbled across this thread and have to say that the workmanship is as good as I have come across anywhere. :goodjob:

 

Martian 👽

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It all looks real... magnificent work. (also glad to see your rigging lines are black, RAF wires were generally lacquered black and quite prominent, none of this invisible thread lark :) )

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