Ran Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 (edited) An now for something completely different. The is progressing and the is DONE. So ... what next? What could be different then a WWII Bomber in 1/48?? TA DA: A Falkland era, Helicopter in 1/72 . While gearing up to start - I've noticed the instructions of this 1/72 lack almost all paint call outs of the internal parts. Looked around and found the instructions for the 1/48 Hasegawa Sea King kit ( 1999.jp.co site) and will use these for paint call out. That's it for today. Ran Edited November 3, 2018 by Ran 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birchy1964 Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 Hi , I built this kit last year before I built the Airfix hc4, this kit has better detail in some parts than the Airfix kit ,but the main omission is the exhaust shroud ,I fabricated one from plasticard using the Airfix kit as a template . I have the 1/48 Sea King AEW2 with a resin radar bag which having done the 1/72 Cyber Hobby one in the grey scheme I am tempted to do a Falklands blue version which is included in the decal options ,I also have a Revell 1/48 Sea king and an Airwaves HC4 conversion set which will get the white tiger stripes, looking forward to see yours progress ,Birchy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted November 3, 2018 Author Share Posted November 3, 2018 Birchy1964 - thanks for the tip. Can I find any of these builds here on BM? I Sure want to learn from them. Ran Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birchy1964 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Hi ,can’t remember seeing any builds of this kit ,but it’s fairly straight forward ,the interior seats and crew seats are a bit undersized so you could keep the the cabin door closed , I think the cabin seats were only applicable to other variants ie the HC4 not the AEW2 which would have been full off sonar or radar equipment , Google will give you loads of good references , best of luck ,Birchy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 Been looking for some clues on the back cabin of these AEW.2's - amazingly could not find even one picture. Did find some pictures of the upgraded AEW.2A and others but none of the AEW.2 Did find some nice image of the rear part where the Radar dome is hinged. So if I won't be able to resist the AMS I will try to scratch something up. Ran Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 1....2.....3.... Starting Had a couple of minutes today and suffered from the regular 'pre-build' anxiety. Lot's of ideas, lots of options, to AMS or not to AMS, what paint job, what to do first. It's always hard for me to switch from an ongoing build to a fresh one. So.. the best remedy is ... just to start. Here goes .... Started from the cockpit. decided to build it a little and then paint. Started to cut the parts and glue and immediately remembered why I vowed not to buy or build anything smaller then 1/48. Those F@#@#$@#$@#ing small parts 😵. Even clearing the spruce gates (heavy and protruding into the gluing surface) is hard and I manged to hurt a couple of points along the fuselage contour - a lot of puttying is expected ahead. Any one mentioned VERY small parts? I spent a lot of time dry fitting - time well spent That's it for today. Next I really have to fire up the compressor. BR Ran 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf117 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 (edited) Content withdrawn - I will NOT be threatened by a moderator, simply because I queried the actions of another... Edited June 27, 2020 by andyf117 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted November 26, 2018 Author Share Posted November 26, 2018 (edited) On 11/6/2018 at 10:52 AM, andyf117 said: Before you fire up the compressor, the Hasegawa kit lists FS numbers - the interior colour on Westland aircraft is Dark Admiralty Grey BS381C:632.... Andy - thanks for the heads up. I could not find a paint that matches the BS381C:632 and only after a while learned that RLM 75 can be a good approximation. I used instead Model Master 4754 Dark Gray (F-15) for the interior. The weeks since my last update were not wasted but rather put to good modeling use as I had couple of opportunities to sit down and build. The mojo for updates was on LOW for the entire duration - hence no updates so far. So here is a catch up I ended that last session with some dry-fitting - and with this fiddling small parts and the super soft plastic - there is never enough of that. Session started with working on the left rear door - where the radar thingy hangs. This had to be cut to allow the elbow to protrude. First cut a hole then marked and cut the extended opening. The Dremel and some bits came in handy. As the Dremel was out - I attended to a myriad number of sink holes: Some Mr. Dissolved Putty and the Dremel again. Before painting the inside I had a severe attack of AMS. I swore when I start to keep this one simple - first Heli + first 1/72 in a while and so on. Alas - it did strike me. I wanted to add the electronics box so visible in the aft compartment and also a console for the AEW controllers. So - here goes. I searched the net for pictures of the inside of the AEW 2 - and found none. Some 2A and 7 were to be found - so I took some creative leeway. I used Sketchup (first time :)) to come up with this: Then transferred it to Styrene (not so perfectly): I created some screens to go on that, using clear green and clear orange. Other panels where created using thin Styrene marked by black marker. For seats I used two seats from the kits part - not representing but also not-so-visible The electronic box started with finding a matching in size Styrene cylinder to serve as a axle for the Radar dome elbow: I then used some old electronic parts I collect for exactly these occasions and then painted light gray and weathered a bit: I later on added some wires. It then noticed the compartment does not have any roof. So one was marked with the floor as a template, cut from Styrene, fitted and detailed a bit Then it was time to paint it all in that dark gray: Next was to cockpit: Rudders, Collectives, Cyclics - all installed. Seats painted with Darb green for the cushions and marked with white and silver for the belts. Instrument panels and glare shield painted flat black and enhanced with silver pencil Then all items were glues in place: As you can see - the glare-shield is a bit off to one side - something I missed ! The rest of the stuff to crowding the aft. compartment: Time to close up the fuselage: NOT Before - I deviated from the instructions. You are called to mate C60+C61+C62 (engine exhaust pipes) and install them before you close the fuselage. This will create some headache when you come to paint the exterior as these should be some sort of steel or other metallic paint. It's also very difficult to install C60 afer they are together, maintain the right angle (C61/62 vs. the body) and close the parts. So - I painted all three Mr. Aqueous Hobby H.18 Steel - without glueing them. Then installed C60 After I mated the fuselage parts and will install C61/62 after the exterior is painted. As the plastic is so soft, and the gates in this kit are ON the mating surfaces in many cases - there were a lot of seems due to roughed up plastic during the cleaning up the gates. I used, for the first time, Perfect Plastic Putty which I found very easy to work with, not smelly, easily manipulated into seam even with my fingers and easy to clear the access. The bottom part fits quite well and its an interesting piece of engineering - in all places BUT the rear part were some shimming was necessary: Work then followed in building / installing a bunch of small items Hoist: Sponsons (following painting in white): I added first aid kits here and there - just for the fun of it. So - this is the state of affairs as of the end of the last sitting time. I hope my AMS will be subdued for the rest of the build. I noticed something went wrong with the glare shield its a bit off - I have and idea how to conceal it. That's it for today Ran Edited November 27, 2018 by Ran 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ragtag Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Interior fit is looking rather good there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 1, 2018 Author Share Posted December 1, 2018 (edited) I spent the little building time on my other build - the Invader. I wanted to do something on this build so I decided to paint the green top windows of the cockpit. Should be a small, stand alone, no hassle job. Well ... who said dry-fitting is only for when you glue stuff. Started with masking: Then came Tamiya X25 Clear Green: Then came the DUH moment F@#$@$@#$. Can you see what's wrong here? Had to rush and clean this with Alcohol - and got this ugly frost: Re-brushed with Future - waiting to see if this works. So ... Dry fit, dry FIT, dry fit, think, think, think @$@#$@#$ That's it for this build today. Ran Edited December 1, 2018 by Ran 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 2nd TAKE ! This time WITH dry fit: And with paint: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Ran, if you paint the transparent green from the inside then it will look much better mate i had to repaint my canopy 9 times before I was happy so I know what a pain it is . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 On 11/26/2018 at 8:20 PM, Ran said: So - this is the state of affairs as of the end of the last sitting time. I hope my AMS will be subdued for the rest of the build. Ran - I hope it’s not too late, but the No 3 generator bulge (that lump on the side of the gear box ‘dog kennel’) is the wrong way round; the round fatter bit should be at the back, and the flat bit at the front. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 4, 2018 Author Share Posted December 4, 2018 4 hours ago, Dads203 said: Ran, if you paint the transparent green from the inside then it will look much better mate i had to repaint my canopy 9 times before I was happy so I know what a pain it is . Dads203 - thanks. Why is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads203 Posted December 4, 2018 Share Posted December 4, 2018 17 hours ago, Ran said: Dads203 - thanks. Why is that? Mostly my own doing, overthining the transparent paint, getting runs, dust particles, hairs .... very frustrating Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 On 12/3/2018 at 10:23 PM, Ex-FAAWAFU said: Ran - I hope it’s not too late, but the No 3 generator bulge (that lump on the side of the gear box ‘dog kennel’) is the wrong way round; the round fatter bit should be at the back, and the flat bit at the front. Ex-FAAWAFU - many thanks ! I tried to fix that one - and marked this project to be a 5 footer 😤 Started by dislodging the part - using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and a sharp knife. Broke the part and then made some mess. Had to re-drill one of the locating holes. Sanded it back a bit and re-attached - this time in the correct orientation. Then finished with some putty. That's what you get for dry fitting without closely examining the instructions 😭 Ran 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 A bit of fettling and that will be fine. Good save. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 Hi there Masking - one of the LESS appealing tasks for a modeller - at least this modeller. The kit has bit sitting on the bench waiting for a mojo spike so I can start masking. I've added the myriad of small antennas, boxes and lights. At 1/72 the model just looks like a porcupine. Today I decided it time so.... here goes First - had to attend to the problem of the skewed dashboard Guess which map is it Next - masking itself you can see the technique I use for masking. The canopy fit is not that good and as I'm using Testor Clear Parts Cement, which dries slowly and has minimal tack to it until it does, handling this was tedious. Had to use some force .... and even more focused force: (trying to get the window frame to stick to the canopy) drying That's it for today. Ran 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cngaero Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 8 minutes ago, Ran said: Guess which map is it Could it be the Falklands by any chance? This is coming together very nicely and is a pleasure to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 16, 2018 Author Share Posted December 16, 2018 22 hours ago, cngaero said: Could it be the Falklands by any chance? This is coming together very nicely and is a pleasure to follow. CORRECT ! Thanks Ran 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 Follow instructions !#$@!$@!$!@ or NOT I spent some time fixing the pilot's side windows. Originally my idea was to fix those only AFTER paint - to reduce masking (which I hate dislike). I did some puttying up the canopy area (horrendous fit) and started to think how am I gonna prepare the windows openings for painting. Then it downed on my that: a. I should glue windows as blocking the opening is gonna be a nag and gluing after paint may be a problem. b. It's much, much, much better to fix these windows BEFORE fixing the canopy @#@$@#$. The windows are oddly shaped (with the moving part molded way toward the inside of the cockpit) and needed some filling. It was super hard to poise them in place, apply the glue AND hold them in place. The left one I glued from the right side. The right one had to be pushed with a toothpick from the door behind the left side seat. Some images: Putty: Windows in place: I left it to dry. Ran 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 Going forward I decided to mask and glue on all the other windows. Covering all the other opening took some time and use of different material. For the sliding back door I opted for the door itself and some masking tape on the inner side of the window opening. Next stage was preshading with Tamyia black X-1. The preshading is heavy (as the final paint will be dark gray) but it does look much more dark then it is in real life - probably due to the lighting used when taking the photo. As it turns out - I missed out on the fact that I do not have H334 RAF Barley. I have an excel data base with all the stash (which makes if Top Secret not releasable to my HWMBO) and the paints needed for each model together with the list of paints do have. I need to go back and fix it so if I'm missing a paint - it will be indicated more clearly. So - I when on a research to find alternatives to Mr. Color 334 or H334. Turns out I do not have these as well. Ended up using a useful site - The EncyColorPedia. I found out that the RGB code for RAF Barley is 849095 (I used the good old Paint4Model site). Then using The EncyColorPedia I found some approximations: - ModelMaster Enamel 1725 - Humbrol 140 - Humbrol 87 - Steel - not sure this is good for this case/ So I'm gonna use one of these - or approximation of. Looking through my paint stash if found these: MM 4755 or MM 1740 Dark Gray MM 1725 or MM 4757 Natural Gray Any recommendations? Ran 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 26, 2018 Author Share Posted December 26, 2018 A quick update following a mid-week bench time. Ship entered the paint shop: Decided to use the Model Master 4755 Dark Gull Gray and Tamiya Semi-Gloss X-18 for the radome and blades. The MM was diluted with Testor acrylic thinner while the Tamiya with my regular Tamiya Lacquer thinner. Results a mixed: The gray sprayed reasonably over the heavy pre-shading, contributing to the wear-n-tear look I am looking for. The coverage was not even and the layer not smooth though. I'm not sure why did that happen and how to fix it when re-applying paint. The black when on just fine: That's it Ran 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Quick question While preparing to start decaling I noticed that the blacked areas around the exhausts DO NOT come as decals. Any good suggestion how to paint these black at this stage of the build? Ran Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ran Posted December 29, 2018 Author Share Posted December 29, 2018 Had some bench time today. Did a basic Future layer during the week: Today I started with decaling the rotor blades - darn small decals The decals for the tail rotor blade base where so small - I decided to just paint it. I then noticed the Rotor Head needed some painting so I decided to add the push rods before that. I used a small diameter Styrene rod I picked at AliExpress - much much cheaper then Evergreen and the sort. I glues a bit differently then the 'good' Styrene but with some patience its OK. Next was some work on Lamps. Turns our the instructions are a bit wrong and the two lamps just bellow the cockpit (E13 + E14) should be glued from the INSIDE of the button part BEFORE closing the fuselage. I used some small diameter spruce, sanded it flat and pushed in the hole, then painted with some Tamiya X11 Silver. Next was the mess of the Exhaust marks. I was sure these came as decals - WRONG I searched the net - turns out you need to mask and paint - and do that BEFORE installing the sponson. Ended up with the following solution: 1. Copied the instruction's paint scheme. 2. Edited it in Photoshop to match the size on the model 3. Enhanced the image so only the Black paint patches were left. 4. Printed on A4 5. put some Tamiya Wide Tape on the ares to become the mask, then put very wide tape on top. This will allow to remove the upper take without tearing paper. 6. Cut the shape of the patch 7. Used it as a mask. Did that for the upper patch first - easier. For the patch - did not want it to be full black so started with Gunze H83 Dark Gray 2. Too light for my taste so switched to a mix of Tamiya XF-85 Flat Black and Tamiya XF66 Light Gray (2:3 mix for the black). While at it - I decide to use some of the paint left in the airbrush to hand paint the black patch on the outer part of the sponsons. It just looked like a hell of a place for a mask. Waiting for the paint to dry and see how it came out. That's it for today. Comments are welcomed as always. Ran 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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