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Royal Aircraft Factory Fe2b in 1/144


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On 14/04/2019 at 00:30, Stevejj said:

Half your skills please.......

just half and I would be a happy old -ish man!! 

Stunning work 

Steve

 

To be honest and at the risk of demystifying everything, a good set of calipers, better-than-human magnification and some good drawings and you’re more than halfway there.  The ability to hold your breath for long periods helps too!  :)

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Gordon Bennett.  I just realised we've already hit page five...!   :o

 

After hewing at the lewises I managed to get those dopey looking ears that control the airflow to the radiator stuck on. It is a relief to get those out of the way at last, as I think they were the most difficult part of the build so far. The number of hours spent was out of all proportion to their size. I also made good on my earlier error, and added the missing rib to the tailplane too. Then brush-painted some scrap decal with dark grey and masked it up to make some stripey stock to later represent the narrow walkways on the inside of each lower wing.

 

I have to work tomorrow, but I'm naively confident I can apply the fabric colour, mask the rib tapes, spray the filter, research the PC10 and spray the base for the upper surfaces on Sunday-Monday....  :unsure:

 

4GJYHO7.jpg?1

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Okay.  Luck was with me today, and I was able to do the bare naked linen on the undersurfaces.  :)

 

I first used Mr Color matt lacquer No.45 Sail Color, which was noticeably lightened with semi-gloss No.69 Off White as a base coat.  This colour was meant to represent the colour of the rib tapes, which often appear whiter than the surrounding linen.  Once this was dry I used the end of my calipers to mark and cut Tamiya tape into narrow strips .27mm wide. These were laid down over the existing rib tapes on the centre-section of the lower wing, and on the otherwise smooth surfaces of the lower wings and tailplane.

 

alv1yU9.jpg?1

 

Masking it was a two hour job that I didn't really want to do. However I'm glad that I did it now. The masked-up wings were given a thin topcoat of the No.45 sail colour and the tape removed. Much to my relief the contrast of the two colours looks just about right. More by good luck than good management, the semi-gloss white used in the rib colour gives just enough sheen so that when turned in the light the ribs shine against the surrounding surface in a way that is really quite attractive. Must file that one away for future reference!

 

 

zOyhXSr.jpg?1

 


Tomorrow the local hobby shop reopens, so I will try to get over there and find a suitable match to the dreaded PC10 colour. Wingnut Wings suggest Tamiya XF62, so I may have to give that a go.  :unsure:

 

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21 minutes ago, isaneng said:

Ok, but having measured them, what the heck do you actually cut them with?

I use the top ledge of the calipers and run my scalpel along it as if it were a steel ruler.  Its hard to explain, but I took some pictures of the process and put them on the third page of this thread.  Hopefully that explains it.

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Hmm, I'm not sure about this.  Got the top coat of paint on, despite leaky compressors and clogged airbrushes.  It looks a bit dark compared to what I imagined though.

There's a public holiday here on Thursday, so that's my window of opportunity to add a lighter filter or respray the colour if necessary.  Or perhaps I should go the whole way and lighten the rib tapes and mask/spray like I did on the undersides...?  :unsure:

 

Any thoughts?  I know PC10 is about as subjective as it gets, but is it too dark to you?

 

gBT52Ou.jpg?1

Edited by Putty Animal
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The undersides look great, but there's a much easier way. Spray them white, then mask the ribs. Give them a coat or two of your underside colour then remove the masking and give them another thin coat to blend them in. No worries about whether your mix was right!

The pc10 does look a little dark, especially in this scale, but it was so changeable I'd leave it unless it really bothers you.

 

Ian

Edited by limeypilot
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I tend to agree with Ian about the PC 10 shade - personally I would lighten it a little and perhaps add a touch of chocolate brown? Either way it is your choice and I do not doubt that whatever shade you decide upon, some nerd will try to tell you that it is wrong!

 

P

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Okay, 5 hours later and here's what I've got.  Getting a colour-blind person to mix one of the most fought over colours in the history of modelling is perhaps not a recipe for success, but I hope I have arrived at a more serviceable tone than the last one.  If I've flubbed it up, please let me know so I can try to fix it on the weekend!

 

First up was a new mix of XF-62 and red-brown with some clear gloss and Gunze white added.  This was split into two batches and one was lightened even further and spayed on as the rib colour.  Then the ribs were all masked off.

 

Gz6VfQ6.jpg?1

 

Once that was done the slightly darker (but still lighter than last time) mix was applied in several very thin coats.  After unmasking I had the result shown below.  The lighter rib colour is faint but visible. Plus the overall colour seems less saturated and light enough for weathering and shading to be visible. I just hope it isn't too brown.  Or too green.  Or something...  :unsure:

 

hnUoeRg.jpg?1

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Quote

To be honest and at the risk of demystifying everything, a good set of calipers, better-than-human magnification and some good drawings and you’re more than halfway there.  The ability to hold your breath for long periods helps too!  

I wouldn't underrate yourself. I struggle to do these kinds of things in 1/48 and I have all of those things :)

 

PC10's a funny colour.  I've been using AK early PC10 and it's a pond slime sort of green. I'm going to use the PC10 late on the Snark and see what happens. I suspect that they all should be a good deal browner, why? because the Germans nicknamed the RFC the Sparrows and as far as I can tell sparrows are a muddy brown colour not green (at least all the ones on my birdtable are).

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I always took the sparrows nickname to have evolved in regards to prey or even from the biblical reference.  Mind you, I can't tell brown from green so perhaps I was missing the obvious.  ^_^

 

I'd been doing a bit of reading over the last few days, and most of the various internet savants seemed to agree that early war PC10 was more green and the latter stuff was more chocolate.  Due to that I was trustingly mixing more XF-62 Olive Drab into the cup than the brown.  Hopefully I arrived at a plausible colour for A857.

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I just had an enjoyable couple of hours watching you do truly lovely stuff

It was the Scratchbuild bit that got me of course, actually building those ridiculous things made of wire and rags is beyond me

In fact I don't know why they went ahead with flying on those silly propellers instead of waiting for decent low bypass turbojets to come along

 

Anyway...

 

No seriously, your work is very inspiring and I will be keeping a quiet eye out for this as it goes along 

I used similar methods to your rib tapes on the rear third of the wings on a Catalina I built a while back

Rather like you, I suspect, I put it off as long as I could before going at it hell-for-leather

 

I didn't get it done as nicely as yours even though I work in the human bean scale of 1/72ths

 

Great build thanks for bringing it to us

 

FE2?

 

Whoever even heard of these things huh

 

Gunbus.Brisfit, Camel? Huh?

 

I love a history lesson, me...

 

😇

 

 

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I'd been doing a bit of reading over the last few days, and most of the various internet savants seemed to agree that early war PC10 was more green and the latter stuff was more chocolate.  Due to that I was trustingly mixing more XF-62 Olive Drab into the cup than the brown.  Hopefully I arrived at a plausible colour for A857.

Yes myPC10 has been quite green so far (I'm trusting the AK interactive colours are correct) I think that the use of PC12 somewhat muddies the waters as it's  a dark reddish chocolate brown. Also I've done some work over the course of my career on colour matching and know my way around a spectrophotometer and a Macbeth plot and even with that kind of technology colour matching, control and consistancy is difficult to say the least.  The other wildcard so to speak is that you can't go by actual paint chips because after 100 odd years they will have aged. Restorations are dodgy too for the same reasons (sky blue in the  Caunter camoflage on the Matilda anyone) 

 

31795255717_a4eb720e4a_z.jpg

 TL:DR  Within reason, if you think the colour is right , it is.

Edited by Marklo
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