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FOKKER EINDECKER E.II "69/15", Baron Kurt von Crailsheim, Monthois France 1915 (AIRFIX 1/72)


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Hi all

 

This is my next project: FOKKER EINDECKER E.II "69/15", Baron Kurt von Crailsheim, FFA 53, Monthois, France, October 1915.

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Baron von Crailsheim scored the first (and his only) air victory for FFA 53 Eindeckers

I'll be using the Airfix kit 01086 in 1/72nd scale.

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The art work(as for most recent Airfix releases) is very appealing

imagel_model_sprue_details_of_the_new_eiTwo grey sprue, very crisp details, no sink marks or flash

 

airfix-a01086-1-72-fokker-e_1.jpgThe box back with the painting and decalling instructions 

 

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Since this will be my first ever WWI project, I'll keep it basically straight from the box. However, I'll add a few things that I've noticed are missing (the windscreen in front of the cockpit, harness and the rigging).

 

Oddly, I decided to start this building by the propellers. The kit brings two propellers types to chose from. One from Garuda Propellers (wider paddles) and one from Germania Propellers (slim paddles). I used the following technique to paint the wood laminated propellers:

 

For the Germania propeller (lighter in colour on the photos below);

Paint the part with XF-02 Flat White

Watercolour pencil Brown and Ochre to make the wood veins

20% Gunze H91 Clear Yellow + 80% thinner

20% Gunze H92 Clear Orange + 80% thinner

Mr Color C218 Aluminium for the metal centre.

 

For the Garuda propeller (darker colour on the photos below);

Paint the part with XF-02 Flat White

Watercolour pencil Brown and Ochre to make the wood veins

20% Gunze H91 Clear Yellow + 80% thinner

10% Gunze H92 Clear Orange + 10% Gunze H93 Clear Blue + 80% thinner

Mr Color C218 Aluminium for the metal centre.

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After painting with XF-02, use various browns shades using a pointed brush to create wood grain in the Germania propeller

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You can either draw it on the piece or use the brush to paint it, blende it with some water if desired

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Next steps is to add colours with the various clear shades

 

 

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Front view: Left the Garuda propeller and on the right side the Germania propeller

 

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Back view: Left the Garuda propeller and Germania on the right side

I'm still undecided which one to use.

 

Next I started on the cockpit.

 

The first thing I've done was to close some annoying release marks.

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Only the one on the front of the cockpit would be visible and required to putty

 

I've used the same technique used to paint the propellers to paint the floor board and back of the seat. In this case I've used the lighter wood colour.

 

After the XF-02, watercolour pencils were used to simulate wood

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For the first time I decided to try the Mr Metal Color lacquer paints. I don't ever use Alclad due it's extreme smell and I'm allergic to it. Therefore it seems to be a viable option.

 

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Used for the first time and I was really impressed with the results and quality of the paint

 

Airbrushed MrColors 211 - Chrome Silver on the "metal" parts using the following settings: 1 paint : 2 Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) @ 15psi. The result was outstanding and I became a fan to it.

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Metal parts sprayed with MrColors 211 with any prior preparation on the plastic.

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Fuselages halves ready to be glued together

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I've added some synthetic fibre harnesses from my spare parts box. Maybe not the correct one but will do the job on this scale. I also did improve the handle on the control stick. The part is hallowed but comes as a single flat piece of plastic in the kit

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Cockpit masked and ready for the next painting task

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The Fokker Eindecker had a very distinctive metal characteristic. All Aluminium panels  and cowls remained unpainted and were given a "squiggly turned" finish.

 

Please observe the squiggly turned finish on the cowl

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Since the beginning of this project I was trying to figure it out how to represent it in this small scale. I came up with this technique that I was happy with the result.

 

First airbrush the metal parts with Chrome Silver (211)

Spray a coat of Tamiya X-19 Clear Smoke (40% paint : 60% Thinner)

Brush paint MrColor C218 Aluminium in format of the squiggly marks

Airbrush a final coat with MrColor C159 Super Silver (40% paint : 60% MLT)

 

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Next in my list was to add some detail to the engine. The Eindecker E.II was powered by a 100hp Oberursel U.1 (which was a license built 100hp Gnome Monosoupape).

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I added the ignition wirings to the cylinders using EZLine fine.

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After a first base with X-01 Black I sprayed it with MrColor C159 Super Silver (50% paint : 50% MLT @ 15psi)

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Following I did spray the cylinders only with:

1st: 20% X-19 Clear Smoke + 80% thinner

2nd: 20% Gunze H91 Clear Yellow + 80% thinner

3rd: 20% Gunze H93 Clear Blue + 80% thinner

4th and final, Tamiya Panel Accent BLACXK wash.

 

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The Eindecker was equipped with an IMG 08 "Spandau" 7.92mm machine gun. Obviously the kit would benefit from an aftermarket representation of this machine gun. However, I have decided to build it as most out-of-the-box as possible, so I just painted the piece XF-01 Flat Black and had some graphite powder rubbed into it afterwards.

 

 

A new aftermarket machine gun would add value to kit. Note how characteristic it is

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XF-01 Flat Black applied

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Graphite powder was rubbed overall

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I did open the machine gun barrel to add some detail

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Fuselage is now masked and ready to get painted.

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Comments and critics are very welcome!

 

To be continued!

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Awesome work.  The wood finish on those props is a work of art and I love the cowling finish.

 

I don't know if you are planning to use the kit stripes on the fuselage but I'm sure I've read that the top and bottom stripes are too narrow to match up with the side ones.  Forewarned is forearmed!

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I built one of these earlier this year, pretty much OOB except for the rigging (although not quite as much attention to fine detail as your build) and yes the kit stripes were a pain to align and still needed some hand retouching to finish them off. If I were doing it again I think I'd just mask them off and paint them myself.

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Stunning work. Like the detailing on the engine; the graphite powder on the gun gives it depth; superb work on the prop, very convincing wood effect, especially at this scale; but the best 'till last is the squiggly turned finish on the cowl. I've often wondered how to replicate this and seen a few modellers give it a good go. It's always reminded me of a sort of psychedelic galvanised effect. Best I've seen to date. Looking forward to seeing this rigged up.

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8 hours ago, Marklo said:

I built one of these earlier this year, pretty much OOB except for the rigging (although not quite as much attention to fine detail as your build) and yes the kit stripes were a pain to align and still needed some hand retouching to finish them off. If I were doing it again I think I'd just mask them off and paint them myself.

 

10 hours ago, Seahawk said:

Awesome work.  The wood finish on those props is a work of art and I love the cowling finish.

 

I don't know if you are planning to use the kit stripes on the fuselage but I'm sure I've read that the top and bottom stripes are too narrow to match up with the side ones.  Forewarned is forearmed!

Thanks all for your kind words.

 

Yes! I've read a few reviews and I knew about the issues with fuselage decal.

I'm already planning to paint it instead.

 

More updates soon!

Cheers

Paulo

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Like your version of the gun, sad that aftermarkets are not making it.

 

Sorry it is not much help to you or anyone else doing this little plane but Master has produced this Spandau gun in 32nd scale which I just built at the weekend. As far as I know he did not make 48th or 72nd version. But knowing his work I am sure he is able to do so.  I would say it is more a question of demand, sales and production costs.

Will have to ask him about this. B)

 

 

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I am not sure he would do the 3D printed ammo belts in 72nd, they are on the limit even in 32nd.:D

 

 

Best regards

Gabor

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Progressing with this building very steadily, mainly because I'm grounded home due to a recent knee operation. Anyway! The next step was to start with the painting.


I've read so many reviews over the internet and one thing that was common to all is in regards to the fuselage band decals. They don't match properly. So I decided to to paint those marks. Since I was about to paint it, I decided also decided to paint the big white squares on the wings and fuselage. This is because the decal would be positioned just on the top of the rigging points and I would have to use few decal solving solutions to fix it. In the end they will look nicer. However, I will cut and use the decals for the German crosses.


The first thing Ive done was to spray Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow overall to uncover any mistake or gaps to be corrected (had some minor ones easily fixed). I still have not decided what colour to use for the fuselage but this will give me an stating point.


Then I painted the white areas using Tamiya XF-02 Flat White with a few drops of Future (1 paint : 1 Future : 2 X-20A @15psi)

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White added to the fuselage band

 

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Wings top side with white area painted

 

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Wings underside with white area painted

 

 When doing the masks I usually place the masking tape on a piece of baking paper.

I used the decal as a template. Cut with a sharp blade and metal ruler for straight cuts.

 

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Masking tape being cut and positioned in one of the wings

 

I've used the same process to cut the fuselage cross template.

I've used the 3mm tape for the upper and bottom of the fuselage band. However, for the sides I had to use 2 x 2mm stripes overlapped  since it is slightly thinner than the upper and bottom stripes.

 

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Fuselage band and cross masked

 

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Upper wing squares masked

 

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Underside wings squares masked 

 

Next I did apply Tamiya XF-01 Flat Black with a few drops of Future (1 paint : 1 Future : 2 X-20A @15psi). I know I'll have to spray some white or grey prior to yellow but I think this way it would be easier to mask.

 

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Black paint applied

 

To be continued!

 

 

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Quote: Progressing with this building very steadily, mainly because I'm grounded home due to a recent knee operation. Anyway! The next step was to start with the painting.

 

Having a replacement knee last year with 6 months off work was exactly what prompted me to get back into plastic modelling as I couldn’t get out to fly my R/C stuff. Make the most of it! :yes::) 

Edited by Bill.B
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12 hours ago, Putty Animal said:

I didn't realise you are from my home town.  If Future was available there I'd have had my dear old mum send some eastwards for me :)

Mate

If you need some I can spare a small bottle and send it over to you. PM if you're interested.

Cheers

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Yellow applied. I've used Gunze  H413 RLM04 Yellow.

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After waiting overnight for paint to cure I decided to check it before moving on.

 

A little setback, I was not happy with the results. Some overspray/bleeding paint and some huge misalignment. I will have to start from the beginning again.

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To be continued!

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  • 2 weeks later...

No easy way out. Sanded it with fine sandpaper and started it again with the White.

 

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First painting the White

 

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Since my first attempt was unsuccessful, I've decided to change the method. After applying the second stripe in Black, instead of masking it off to leave a gap for the Yellow, I decided to paint the Black stripe first.

 

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The first Black stripe 

 

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Following I painted the Yellow.

 

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The Yellow painted

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 Finally the last Black stripe is on and ready to be masked off.

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I was so confident that I didn't remove the mask to check the results

 

The main colour was then applied. The instructions called for Humbrol 103 Matt Cream. Since I only use acrylic paints and mainly Tamiya, I decided to mix it.

 

I came up with following mix ratio:

 

58% XF02

26% XF57

12% XF15

4% XF03

I was pretty happy with the end result.

 

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Main colour applied and masks removed

 

 

 

For the wings I have sprayed a darker version of my mix on the wings. Mask 1mm stripes on the frames and then sprayed my mix main colour.

The wing frames masked and ready to get the main paint on 

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A coat of clear gloss Tamiya X-22 was applied and the model is ready for decals.

To be continued!

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