Jump to content

Airfix 1/72 Mustang control stick.


Roger Newsome

Recommended Posts

I've lost count how many times I've read of people breaking the control stick when attempting to remove it from the sprue, including myself, however I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself following the successful removal of the said item and thought I'd share my technique.

All you need is a blob of blu tac and a sharp knife.

 

IMG_6549

 

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

He,he, mine came attached on the sprue moulded in two broken unusable parts in the first place, although I was quite pleased with my fix of a quick measure, then stretched sprue and Tamiya masking tape, at time I must admit, my column leather shroud even has folds in it. The only very minor flaw on a utterly brilliant kit for the money which turns into a fabulous looking classic bird in my very humble.  Very good advice if the stick's in one piece, nice one. Cheers.    

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another fun part to separate from sprues is the antenna.

Good luck! I've broke it each and every time ...

 

I've built two Airfix Mustangs so far and have another one in stash.

On two out of three kits the main gear legs were badly warped.

It's difficult to get them straight as the plastic has 'memory'.

For my next build I will use Scale Aircraft Conversions metal gear legs.

 

But enough whining, the Airfix kit builds into a very nice model!

 

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is my second one and I also broke the antenna on my first, come to think of it the legs were a bit warped too. I agree it does build into a nice model, my first one was only let down by my painting, the reason why I'm giving it a second try... and perhaps a third as I have another one. 😀

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have an old dental engine- the kind that you used to see in dental offices. It's basically an electric motor that has articulated arms that end in a handpiece that is driven by a fabric belt into which you can insert dental burrs/sanders/ bits or anything that can be attached to a Dremel tool. I use a metal cutoff disc, which is very thin, and it cuts small delicate pieces like the control column and antenna off of the sprue with no damage. I have a foot pedal which allows me to vary the speed from very low to high, so as to not melt the plastic. It is the perfect tool to remove fairings, blisters, and other raised details in no time at all.

Mike

Edited by 72modeler
corrected spelling
  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Roger Newsome said:

I keep getting an awful feeling I should have kept quiet about my minor triumph... disaster no doubt lurks around the corner. 😨

Yes. :) I felt very smug getting my second one off in one piece but it didn't make it into the fuselage thus, don't know why I bothered. :D

Steve.

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, 72modeler said:

I have an old dental engine- the kind that you used to see in dental offices. It's basically an electric motor that has articulated arms that end in a handpiece that is driven by a fabric belt into which you can insert dental burrs/sanders/ bits or anything that can be attached to a Dremel tool. I use a metal cutoff disc, which is very thin, and it cuts small delicate pieces like the control column and antenna off of the sprue with no damage. I have a foot pedal which allows me to vary the speed from very low to high, so as to not melt the plastic. It is the perfect tool to remove fairings, blisters, and other raised details in no time at all.

Mike

That sounds like a very good gadget to have in the armoury. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, stevehnz said:

Yes. :) I felt very smug getting my second one off in one piece but it didn't make it into the fuselage thus, don't know why I bothered. :D

Steve.

Sorry Steve, I shouldn't really have laughed at that but I couldn't help it. 😆

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've built two, which are now awaiting paint. I got the control column off the runner both times with careful use of a JLC saw; sadly, when assembling the two fuselages one control column departed this world for another dimension - that one's getting built with the canopy closed!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 22/10/2018 at 11:05, Roger Newsome said:

One little thing to add, you need to be extremely careful removing the control stick from the blu tak. 

The control stick can't be THAT weak, can it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I haven't played with this particular kit, but the Airfix plastic is VERY soft/pliable/fragile, so I can entirely believe that it CAN be that weak.  And yes, I LIKE Airfix, but I do wish they'd do something about their plastic.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/24/2018 at 6:57 AM, Sturmovik said:

The control stick can't be THAT weak, can it?

No, it's weaker! The combination of very soft plastic, a very finely moulded item and a largish gate means that the control column is very prone to breaking unless great care is taken when removing it.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello all,

 

I've been using "a hot blade technique" when dealing with parts and plastic like this. Use a good quality knife like X-Acto or Swan-Morton (all metal) and hold the blade above a candle for a while. Then let the hot blade "slide" through plastic. Do not use any force nor cut too close to the part. Then clean the part carefully with a knife and a fine sanding stick. Do some practice runs to know when the blade is at right temperature and you are cutting at the right pace.

 

Cheers,

Antti

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...