Tamiya M5 Stuart

[WelshZeCorgi]

Hi,

I'm working on weathering and completing this M5 Stuart from Tamiya. I made a few mistakes and would like to know what your thoughts are to correct them.

 

I tried using Vallejo Model wash on the tank, but when trying a pinwash, tide marks appeared before I could get the access off; this was especially true for rivets. I tried watering it down with water but tide marks would still appear. Not sure how to use Vallejo Model washes. 

 

 

I tried a full wash to cover up the tide marks but it left a tide mark on the most conspicuous place imagineable, the American star on the front hull. How would you correct this?

 

 

 

 

I've noticed some silvering of some of the decals. Wondering if there is a way to 1. Keep them from flecking off later on and 2. Correct the silvering decals. 

[John_W]

Looks ok so far. Are you going to matt varnish the figure? The US Army wore cotton, not polyester

[Sandlapper]

To correct that mark l’d smear a mud mixture over it. Lots of American tank crews did that because those stars made great aiming points!

[WelshZeCorgi]

 

I tried the paintbrush chipping effect. And I think it looks bad. How to fix it? How to do it properly?

 

[Soeren]

Hi there. I guess yor problem is you wanted this too much, if this makes any sense. I'm no chipping expert. But "no chip is too small" seems like a good start. My first tries were focused on the edges. Surface chips look better either accumulation's of tiny chips or embedded in paint abrasion,  I. E. starting with lighter Base colour followed by scratch paint.

[WelshZeCorgi]

2 hours ago, Soeren said:

Hi there. I guess yor problem is you wanted this too much, if this makes any sense. I'm no chipping expert. But "no chip is too small" seems like a good start. My first tries were focused on the edges. Surface chips look better either accumulation's of tiny chips or embedded in paint abrasion,  I. E. starting with lighter Base colour followed by scratch paint.

1. So how would I fix the chips already in place? Should I just go over it with the base color again and just dab at the chips until they seem good?

 

2. I'm having paint issues. I'm using Tamiya acrylic paints and they just seem to blob on instead of providing that sharp, well-defined edge needed for a paint chip to look realistic. How do I get paint consistency down so that my 10/0 brush doesn't blob when it tap the paint on?

[Bullbasket]

Some will disagree with me, but I find Tamiya paints great for spraying, but crap for brush painting. If you try to go back over it before it dries, it tends to lift it off. As it's now dry, you can go back over it with the base colour. When it's dry, then you can start the chipping again. You can either use a brush or as a lot of people do, a piece of sponge. Either case, you don't want a lot on it and you need to apply it with a dabbing motion. Try it out on an old model if you have one, and then once you'e happy with the results, try it on the M5. I find that the best paint to use for chipping is artist's oils, and the colour that I use is raw umber.

HTH's.

 

John.

[AgentG]

Take it easy on the chipping of US vehicles. The OD paint used from the factory was extremely tough and resistant to chipping. Fade it, scratch it, and slather it with mud, but keep the chipping to a minimum. 

 

G

[WelshZeCorgi]

On 10/24/2018 at 7:00 AM, AgentG said:

Take it easy on the chipping of US vehicles. The OD paint used from the factory was extremely tough and resistant to chipping. Fade it, scratch it, and slather it with mud, but keep the chipping to a minimum. 

 

G

I tried keeping it to a minimum, but to show wear, I tried really dirtying it up by using oil paints to create rain and mud streaking effects. I also used a white spirit medium to put on Vallejo pigments to create dust and dried mud. 

 

Not sure if I overdid it. 

 

Anyways, I do see a problem. How do I touch this model without leaving massive fingerprints on it?

 

 

[Soeren]

Very nice, :)

 

As for your print question. Try somtehing like this

[WelshZeCorgi]

10 minutes ago, Soeren said:

Very nice,

 

As for your print question. Try somtehing like this 

 

I meant more like, "do I use a varnish, what kind"? I keep most of my models at my work desk and people sometimes just pick it up to get a better look at it.

Edited October 26, 2018 by WelshZeCorgi

[Bullbasket]

Fix it to  small base. Then you can pick it up by the base. Just one small thing I wanted to point out. The ammunition for the .303 has no belt running down the middle. I think that they were either leather or webbing. That said, you've done a good job on the weathering. Nice one.

 

John.

[WelshZeCorgi]

16 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

Fix it to  small base. Then you can pick it up by the base. Just one small thing I wanted to point out. The ammunition for the .303 has no belt running down the middle. I think that they were either leather or webbing. That said, you've done a good job on the weathering. Nice one.

 

John.

Do you fix it to the base with screws? Nails? Superglue seems to get brittle with age. I don't want to pick it up 4 years from now only to find the superglue didn't last when the model slips off and hits the ground. But this might be a good time to make a small, simple diorama with it.

 

as for the .303, Should I just mask off both sides of the bullets and just spray some brown down the middle?

[Bullbasket]

1 hour ago, WelshZeCorgi said:

Do you fix it to the base with screws? Nails? Superglue seems to get brittle with age. I don't want to pick it up 4 years from now only to find the superglue didn't last when the model slips off and hits the ground. But this might be a good time to make a small, simple diorama with it.

 

as for the .303, Should I just mask off both sides of the bullets and just spray some brown down the middle?

I fix mine to a wooden base with white PVA glue, something like Gorilla or Gator grip. I've never had one come adrift.

You could mask each side and spray/brush paint the belt, but if your hand is steady enough, just brush paint the belt free hand. It's only a small area.

 

John.

[Bullbasket]

13 minutes ago, Bullbasket said:

I fix mine to a wooden base with white PVA glue, something like Gorilla or Gator grip. I've never had one come adrift.

You could mask each side and spray/brush paint the belt, but if your hand is steady enough, just brush paint the belt free hand. It's only a small area.

 

John.

Something like this.

[CharlieNZ]

That was the first 1/35 armour kit I ever built, many years ago. Your finish looks really nice.

 

For the .30 cal ammo (it isn't .303), the belt would have been tan canvas. I wouldn't go to the trouble of masking and spraying, it's a fairly thin line in 1/35, running down the centre. Brush painting it in some kind of light tan, or sand colour would suffice.

[WelshZeCorgi]

 

Realized that in my previous post that I didn't show the front. Had dirt and oil color spread on the front star, both to cover the mistake on the decal and for realism? Guess they covered that up to prevent enemy gunners from using it as an aiming point. 

[WelshZeCorgi]

Since it wouldn't make sense for a dirty tank to have a clean crew, I dirtied up the (commander? Loader?) to match the tank. Used Vallejo brown pigments with Vallejo European dust wash. Brushed/ knocked off the excess with white spirit and a vigorous dusting with a brush.

 

Not sure what's left to do. Any suggestions? Put on some tamiya flat clear? Semi-gloss? 

Edited October 27, 2018 by WelshZeCorgi

[Redcoat2966]

Really nice weathering and dust effects on that mate.......just enough. I’m enjoying keeping up with this one 👍.....figures really nice to. Something I have to get to grips with soon😖

 

Simon