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1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood


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On 8/20/2019 at 5:29 PM, beefy66 said:

From what could have been a disaster with the bow to a stunning build 👍🏻

 

beefy 

 

Cheers Beefy, since starting the hobby again it's the closest I've come to giving up on a kit. If I hadn't bough all the AM bits I probably would of done.

 

Thanks all for the kind comments and likes.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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2 hours ago, Nick Charnock said:

 

Cheers Beefy, since starting the hobby again it's the closest I've come to giving up on a kit. If I hadn't bough all the AM bits I probably would of done.

 

Thanks all for the kind comments and likes.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

As previously Nick, I did exactly the same thing, trying exactly the same thing, in exactly the same place. Mine is still a little bit iffy in that area by flat matt paint hide a sin here and there. Ish.

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9 hours ago, Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies said:

hide a sin here and there.

Gidday, I'm all in favour of that. On models too. 😇

     Seriously, I've used the dividing line between light and dark paint in dazzle camo to 'hide' a poor join, but that only works with whiffs or when the camo pattern is not specific.

I'm impressed that you didn't give up, whatever the reason. Regards, Jeff.

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On 8/31/2019 at 8:59 PM, maurice northcott said:

Fantastic workmanship Nick 🙂

Thanks Maurice

On 9/1/2019 at 3:39 AM, ArnoldAmbrose said:

I'm impressed that you didn't give up, whatever the reason. Regards, Jeff.

Cheers Jeff

 

Bit more progress over the last week;

Mainmast signal halyards from fine Uschi line;

IMG_5082

 

Foremast Halyards;

IMG_5085

 

And the rest of the foremast rigging in standard Uschi;

IMG_5087

 

Boats and lockers fitted, along with the quad vickers;

IMG_5088 IMG_5088

And secondary armament;

IMG_5089

 

And finally the big guns!!!;

IMG_5091 IMG_5092

I decided to leave the storm wires on all the turrets even though they were probably removed in real life as I didn't want to risk damaging the finish.  

 

She looks quite mean;

IMG_5093

 

I've been trying to figure out a way to reproduce the helm indicators on the mainmast halyards, 2 cones on the starboard and a ball on the port side.

IMG_5100

 

In the end I decided to try 3D printing - we'll see how they work out (the fairleads are for HMS Ark Royal when I get round to her - Crisp has found some missing from the kit!!)

IMG_5097

 

Rigging next and then sea base and crew.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

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  • 4 months later...

Been a while (working away) but some pics below of slow progress over the last few months;

 

3D printed helm indicators turned out ok; 

IMG_5117

 

The Aerial screen and trunk from the bottom of the main mast are missing so made these from a spare from Dreadnought and some 1mm rod with masking tape along with piles of timber, oars and resin crates, and coil of rope to busy things up a bit;

IMG_5113

49443775281_8676875db2_k.jpg

 

 

Mainmast rigged (admirals flag to be fitted). At the base of the mast are the aerial cage and aerial trunk;

IMG_5242

 

Rigging between the masts done, mix of standard uschi line and caenis line;

IMG_5241

 

Bits and bobs added;

IMG_5240

 

 

IMG_5237 IMG_5236

 

Hull fitted to the base and wrapped in clingfilm to protect from the acrylic paste I'll use for the sea (won't try that again - more trouble than it was worth as it tended to leave a gap between the 'sea' and the ship, which had to be filled after the clingfilm was removed, thereby defeating the object);

IMG_5250

 

Sea painted in acrylics, ready for gloss medium and white oil pint for foam;

IMG_5261

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

 

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48 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Nick, your detail is mind-boggling. This is truly a work of art. Regards, Jeff.

Second that stunning stuff

 

beefy

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Thanks all for the kind comments.

 

3 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said:

The boat covers are really effective; remind me how you did them again?  Was it paper or foil?

 

Hi Crisp, extra thick tin foil, tried tissue paper but it didn't work out.

I'm following Ark, looks brilliant, just not finding much time to post.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

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Seriously impressed with the level of detail you've achieved.

 

I must confess I'd be very nervous at wrapping a model in clingfilm to create the base with that much detail already on there - especially the rigging.  Although I do often wrap the hull in clingfil while I create the sea around it, I tend to do it much earlier on while the hull can be manhandled.

 

Was also interested to see the results you've achieved with Uschi line.  I've not tried that one but must give it a go.  The EZ line that I've used in the past is so tense that I find I have to put balanced tension across both sides or otherwise it just bends the mast/yard out of shape.

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Thanks Chewie

 

On 1/28/2020 at 8:41 PM, Chewbacca said:

I must confess I'd be very nervous at wrapping a model in clingfilm to create the base with that much detail already on there - especially the rigging.  Although I do often wrap the hull in clingfil while I create the sea around it, I tend to do it much earlier on while the hull can be manhandled.

I was very nervous 🙂

 

I was in two minds really, I like to keep the hull loose from the base whilst detailing and I've seen clingfilm used early and then the hull removed. This wouldn't work with Hood because the torpedo bulge would form an undercut with the sea. Clingfilm at the end seemed like the lesser of two evils given my habit of throwing acrylic paste everywhere but it didn't really work out.

Upcoming ships are all full hull so I think I'll go for the foam board method - although I can get my head round how you get an accurate waterline cutout?

On 1/28/2020 at 8:41 PM, Chewbacca said:

Was also interested to see the results you've achieved with Uschi line.  I've not tried that one but must give it a go.  The EZ line that I've used in the past is so tense that I find I have to put balanced tension across both sides or otherwise it just bends the mast/yard out of shape.

I really like the Uschi line - 'Standard' for most lines, 'Fine' for signal halyards. Rarely use the 'Extra Fine' as it goes translucent under tension. The lines that I don't want to stretch i.e. stay as straight as possible with other bits of rigging pulling on them, are doubled up 700 denier Caenis line. 

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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This is stunning work, I just keep being astounded by the detail.

I also appreciate the technique hints thrown in throughout, it means my lunch times at work are actually mildly productive rather than be just scrolling through pretty pictures of boats.

 

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On 1/28/2020 at 8:41 PM, Chewbacca said:

Was also interested to see the results you've achieved with Uschi line.  I've not tried that one but must give it a go.  The EZ line that I've used in the past is so tense that I find I have to put balanced tension across both sides or otherwise it just bends the mast/yard out of shape.

I've had the same problem, it's easy to over stretch the line when attaching the other end, and for something so fine it seem to have a lot of elastic strength in it

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Thanks for the kind comments. 

 

On 2/3/2020 at 12:19 PM, OutcastJoel said:

This is stunning work, I just keep being astounded by the detail.

I also appreciate the technique hints thrown in throughout, it means my lunch times at work are actually mildly productive rather than be just scrolling through pretty pictures of boats.

 

Cheers Joel, the techniques are almost all stuff I've picked up here or on other forum's. 

On 2/8/2020 at 8:12 AM, colin said:

I've had the same problem, it's easy to over stretch the line when attaching the other end, and for something so fine it seem to have a lot of elastic strength in it

I barely stretch the Uschi line; it only has to be just tight enough to not sag so that it looks tight if that makes sense

 

Bit more progress;

Bow waves installed - if that's the right word?

Cotton wool encased in clear acrylic gel (thanks Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies for the advice). They'll be blended into the sea with white at the next stage;

IMG_5271

 

Clear Acrylic Gel applied to the sea;

IMG_5275

 

Rigged the boat boom which I keep forgetting to do;

IMG_5276

 

Admirals flag fitted;

IMG_5277

 

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 03/02/2020 at 08:36, Nick Charnock said:

 

I really like the Uschi line - 'Standard' for most lines, 'Fine' for signal halyards. Rarely use the 'Extra Fine' as it goes translucent under tension. The lines that I don't want to stretch i.e. stay as straight as possible with other bits of rigging pulling on them, are doubled up 700 denier Caenis line. 

 

Thanks.  Almost the next job on BULOLO (when I can finally get back to it) is the rigging to I think I will have to invest in some Uschi line

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White bits applied to the sea, various weights of white washes and highlights over the clear gloss medium;

Before;

IMG_5275

After;

IMG_5286

 

Few shots in natural light;

IMG_5288

 

IMG_5289

 

 

The bow wave needs a bit more work, then the crew.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

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