1/350 Trumpeter HMS Hood

[Thom216]

Really good looking bridge. Nice adjustments.

[Nick C]

Thanks all for the likes and comments

 

The bridge structures are about ready for painting after adding ladders, railings, splinter shield supports (whatever they're really called;

   

Flag lockers from the flyhawk set;

 

Railings, ladders and missing doors;

 

This level should have a splinter shield rather than railings;

 

Test fit together;

 

The air defense lookout position needs a bit more work!

The rear portion has screens on 3 sides as moulded so needs the front section removing and there's no access from the compass platform;

 

 

It'll get parts fitted from the Northstar RN bridge equipment set after painting. For now the bridge structure is just about done;

 

Need to decide which bit to start next!

 

Cheers

 

Nick

 

 

 

[beefy66]

Some really nice details going on here Nick what are you using for reference materials so I can start looking for when I get round to doing my attempt at this kit  

 

beefy 

[Nick C]

Cheers Beefy

 

A range of sources;

HMS Hood Association website which is really useful and has a piece on this kit;

http://www.hmshood.com/hoodtoday/models/trumpeter/trumpeter350.htm

I'm also using;

'Anatomy of the ship', which is great but  most of the drawings are for earlier fit outs than as sunk in 41,

The Battlecruiser HMS Hood by Bruce Taylor - some great photo's 

Kagero TOPDRAWINGS 24 : THE BATTLECRUISER HMS HOOD by S Draminski, - great drawings, but the HMS Hood society say some inaccuracies - but doesn't say what!

This is where line drawing earlier in the WIP comes from. 

 

Pics on the web, but there aren't many that show detail in 1941.

 

HTH

 

Cheers

 

Nick

[beefy66]

Great stuff thanks Nick will get that info in the old notebook  

 

Best Wishes for the holidays

 

beefy

[Nick C]

Cheers Beefy, you too 👍

[Kris B]

Nice work Nick. 

[Nick C]

On 12/31/2018 at 12:34 AM, Kris B said:

Nice work Nick. 

Cheers Kris, what are you working on?

[robgizlu]

Well done Nick - that all looks very classy

Rob

[Kris B]

21 hours ago, Nick Charnock said:

Cheers Kris, what are you working on?

Mig-29 is in the Aircraft section, and T-28 but this is slow moving project. 

Edited January 3, 2019 by Kris B

[Nick C]

On 1/3/2019 at 4:22 PM, Kris B said:

Mig-29 is in the Aircraft section, and T-28 but this is slow moving project. 

Been away with work Kris, I'll need to catch up!

 

Slow progress but working on the main upper deck sub assemblies;

 

Aft superstructure sides;

  

 

Ans assembled;

PE Ladder used to replace the moulded windows, same as the bridge, 0.25x0.5 strip cut to 2mm lengths for the splinter shield supports. Really like the Eduard davits, they fold double with little 'petal' bases so they're really quite 3D 

 

Various deck vent from the flyhawk set - good for practicing my soldering, which needs a lot of practice!;

 

Fore funnel base;

All the refs I have show that the area to the rear of the funnel base which trumpeter has moulded portholes in should be a vent with 2 hatches on top, so I covered the portholes with a bit of spare mesh and added some hatches;

 

On;y to find that when the funnels fited the hatches won't open! Somethings a bit off dimensionaly but oh well;

Aft funnel base; had some extra splinter shield fitted as 'edge protection' and the moulded mesh openings blanked as they should be windows here';

 

And the funnel fitted with various etch details;

 

Bit of a test fit on the boat deck;

 

Cheers

 

Nick

  

 

[beefy66]

Great work so far Nick funnels have come up a treat  👍

 

beefy

[USS_ESSESS]

Amazing attention to detail! Those funnels look awesome.👍🏻

[Courageous]

Some nice PE work here and the boat deck is looking good.

 

Stuart

[Nils]

Impressive detail work. Looking forward for more.

 

Industrial or not, I can’t help beeing inpressed by the people creating all these thousands of lovely photo etched kits, helpng modellers lifting standard out-of-the-box models to museum piece quality at a reasonable price.

[Nick C]

On 1/29/2019 at 10:01 AM, Nils said:

Impressive detail work. Looking forward for more.

 

Industrial or not, I can’t help beeing inpressed by the people creating all these thousands of lovely photo etched kits, helpng modellers lifting standard out-of-the-box models to museum piece quality at a reasonable price.

Cheers Nils. I know what you mean about the PE, and some of the resin and 3d printed stuff available is amazing!

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday Nick, I'm a newbie to Britmodeler but have been doing model ships for a bit over twenty years now.

     I am very impressed that you didn't give up when the bow melted, hopefully it will turn out OK. Will this model be a diorama? I know this ship was very wet in a seaway, maybe spray can hide some of the melted plastic, although you have done a very commendable job as it is. However, having never done a diorama myself I speak in ignorance, just an idea.

     I have done an Airfix 1/600 Hood OOB a number of years ago. As far as I can tell it represents the ship at about 1932. I have another and wish to modify it to May 1941 vintage. It won't have your detail, PE is way out of my league. Compared to your model it will have the detail of a brick, but that is about my skill level. My point/question is - May I refer to your build here for my limited detail when I do have a go at it? Please take this as a compliment.

     Regards, Jeff.

[Nick C]

On 1/31/2019 at 11:23 AM, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Nick, I'm a newbie to Britmodeler but have been doing model ships for a bit over twenty years now.

     I am very impressed that you didn't give up when the bow melted, hopefully it will turn out OK. Will this model be a diorama? I know this ship was very wet in a seaway, maybe spray can hide some of the melted plastic, although you have done a very commendable job as it is. However, having never done a diorama myself I speak in ignorance, just an idea.

     I have done an Airfix 1/600 Hood OOB a number of years ago. As far as I can tell it represents the ship at about 1932. I have another and wish to modify it to May 1941 vintage. It won't have your detail, PE is way out of my league. Compared to your model it will have the detail of a brick, but that is about my skill level. My point/question is - May I refer to your build here for my limited detail when I do have a go at it? Please take this as a compliment.

     Regards, Jeff.

Hi Jeff, I considered giving up on the kit when the bow melted, but I'd already bought the after market stuff and I didn't want to waste it. 

 

She'll be water line on a sea base - you're spot on about the wet ship bit and I did think about a rough sea, but when she was at sea the ladders from the boat deck to the forecastle deck and the forecastle deck to the quarterdeck were struck away and stowed so they didn't get swept away, and I want to model those in position as I think the add to the detail of the ship - so I think she'll be in relatively calm waters leaving Scapa Flow - there's plenty of picks or her under way at low speed with the ladders still in position. Also, I've never modelled a very rough sea before 😉

 

Look forward to seeing your 1941 Hood, I thought the same about PE when I came back to modelling a few years ago but I found it ok, just patience and walking away and coming back fresh if it gets too much works for me - give it a go mate.

As for the reference, please be my guest, hope it helps. 

 

Cheers

 

Nick     

 

 

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday Nick, I never thought of equipment being stowed away in heavy weather, to leave them on would be an inaccuracy. Like I said, I've never done a diorama so am ignorant of the finer points of that side of modelling. And I'll say it again, I'm glad you didn't give up. You are an inspiration to those that have had hiccups (major and minor) in their model making. Regards, Jeff.

[surfsup]

That is some very nice and clean work you have done on this Kit. Also a nice save on the Bow area.....Cheers Mark

[Nils]

One silly question from someone beeing insanely blank to this kind of modelling; how do you attach the PE bits to the kit? Do you gl ahead glue it like together like the other bits? I assume the PE bits are brass, atleast they look like brass..

Can I also ask, how much does all those PE kits cost for example for your Hood build? Can you order say, a complete PE pack for Hood,? or do you have to order it kit by kit? I guess there’s no point building a super detailed superstructure and leave the rest at standard level.. I mean, wouldn’t it stick out instantly ?

 

[Nick C]

On 2/3/2019 at 1:12 PM, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Nick, I never thought of equipment being stowed away in heavy weather, to leave them on would be an inaccuracy. Like I said, I've never done a diorama so am ignorant of the finer points of that side of modelling. And I'll say it again, I'm glad you didn't give up. You are an inspiration to those that have had hiccups (major and minor) in their model making. Regards, Jeff.

Cheers Jeff

On 2/4/2019 at 10:47 AM, surfsup said:

That is some very nice and clean work you have done on this Kit. Also a nice save on the Bow area.....Cheers Mark

Thanks Mark

On 2/6/2019 at 2:00 PM, Nils said:

One silly question from someone beeing insanely blank to this kind of modelling; how do you attach the PE bits to the kit? Do you gl ahead glue it like together like the other bits? I assume the PE bits are brass, atleast they look like brass..

Can I also ask, how much does all those PE kits cost for example for your Hood build? Can you order say, a complete PE pack for Hood,? or do you have to order it kit by kit? I guess there’s no point building a super detailed superstructure and leave the rest at standard level.. I mean, wouldn’t it stick out instantly ?

 

Hi Nils, combination really, for making up brass structures like the vents I try and solder them, mainly because I want to learn how to do it and practice, but it does give a great join when it goes well (and you can reapply heat and try again when it doesn't 😉).

I use a bog standard soldering iron and liquid solder. I've tried a little blow torch but I burned right through some thin bits of brass. 

 

For really small bits and brass to plastic it's mostly medium CA (superglue) - I use ZAP A GAP. It gives a good bond and fills small gaps but you've got to fairly quick. For bits that need some adjustment and will stay in place by themselves, I use thinned down PVA glue, gives you loads of time, can be washed off with water and dries clear. I always use this when I fix railings after painting. The sheen of the dried glue can be covered afterwards with matt varnish.

 

The PE parts for Hood are a combination of the Eduard Big Ed set and Flywawk models - the Eduard was about £20 i think which I thought was really good. I got both because while they both claim to cover the whole ship, neither set covers everything I wanted to add. If you don't want to buy a set for a specific ship there are loads of generic sets of 'railings' or 'ladders' or 'WW2 RN stuff' that you could use to improve any kit.

 

HTH

 

Cheers

 

Nick

[Nils]

Great

Thanks a lot for helping!

[ArnoldAmbrose]

Gidday, Nils there is no such thing as a silly question, I've just learned a few tips from Nick's reply to you, so thank you both. If there is something you don't know then there will be others who don't know either, but weren't game to ask.

            Nick, I might have a go with maybe PE ladders/stairs as a trial in a near or not-so-distant future build, if I'm brave enough. Would you suggest attaching with super glue, before painting? 

Regards to you both, Jeff.

[Nick C]

4 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday, Nils there is no such thing as a silly question, I've just learned a few tips from Nick's reply to you, so thank you both. If there is something you don't know then there will be others who don't know either, but weren't game to ask.

            Nick, I might have a go with maybe PE ladders/stairs as a trial in a near or not-so-distant future build, if I'm brave enough. Would you suggest attaching with super glue, before painting? 

Regards to you both, Jeff.

 

Hi Jeff, yep ladders and stairs I usually pre fix - ladders are normally the same colour as the bulkhead/turret whatever, so can just be sprayed over. Stairs I normally try and fix at the top so that when it's spayed and you place the part on the model, the (normally gray) stairs sit on a nicely painted different coloured deck. You can normally fix the bottom of the stair with a couple of tiny spots of CA glue;

Steps prefix on Dreadnought;

There are always exceptions for some bits, but generally I attach as much brass to the model as possible before painting. Long railing pieces on hull sides or large superstructure areas are the main exception which I always spray on the fret and fit after everything's painted. 

The railings here were fitted after painting with diluted PVA glue which give a nice clean line between the brown deck and the grey railing.

 

I'm not saying this the right way, but it tends to work for me 👍

 

Cheers

 

Nick