Jump to content

Rotary Tool Flexi Shaft


GazB

Recommended Posts

So last year I got a rotary tool for Christmas, specifically this model https://www.amazon.co.uk/ROTARY-MULTI-PRECISION-DREMEL-COMPATIBLE/dp/B00PCIINKE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

Thing is, I haven't used it once. I'm frankly terrified of using it because I hate the idea of something that cuts spinning at speed near my fingers (or the bit flying off). Unfortunately, I wanted it to make cutting resin plugs off easier, but alas that aforementioned fear sprang up.

 

So I stumbled across those flexi shafts, which would be easier to wield than the tool itself, but they seem to be a mixed bag of cheapish ones with questionable longevity, and ones that seem made for Dremel only.

 

Does anyone know of a good, fairly cheap and widely compatible flexi shaft? Or even recommend anything else for removing resin plugs quickly that didn't involve a rotary tool? I have a Trumpeter saw kit, but the blades flex a lot, and still take a bit of work to run through, which is a pain when you have a lot of resin stowage to work through.

 

Or even a decent, reasonably priced tool.

 

Cheers, 

Gaz

Edited by GazB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a Dremel unit at least 25 years ago. I added a speed control unit and a flexi-shaft. Sorry, but I can't help you with a price on modern units for Dremel.

 

39335201234_580bd6f338_b.jpg

 

 

It works great. I used it recently to grind down the clear sprue that I used to make wingtip lights for my Airfix Hurricane. The tips were cut out and sprue superglued into place. After that set, the grinding commenced.

 

28439070977_5fe3282db0_b.jpg

 

 

 

Chris

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Chris. What kind of speeds do you find optimum for working with plastic/resin without melting it?

 

Gaz

Edited by Mike
Removing unnecessary photo quote from the post above.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've stumbled across this model: https://www.amazon.co.uk/PROXXON-28510-MICROMOT-drill-Voltage/dp/B000S5J5R6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537993772&sr=8-2&keywords=proxxon+micromot+50%2Fe

 

Which I've seen being used by David Damek (PLASMO) on Youtube. I'm just curious though if the power supply is required. Some variants package that in with it, which doubles the price, but is it needed?

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not too sure just what rpm I was using. I think I had it set at about 2 on the dial, maybe a bit faster. I just went by feel. Definitely not full speed. That just melts plastic.

On the tip lights I just roughed in the shape until I was  close then switched to small hand files to get the proper shape. I then smoothed it out using fine grade Squadron sanding sticks.

 

 

Chris

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I model in resin quiet a lot and even though I have a Dremel close at hand, never consider using it for cutting pour blocks and with Accurate Armour they are big.  I always use a saw, clogs the teeth up, but a quick wipe across the teeth with a wire brush soon cleans it up, if I do happen to use the Dremel for resin, it will be a short burst of seconds...…..I stuff cotton wool up my nose!!!(even though I have various face masks)

I forget the last time I used my Dremel for Resin, relie entirely on pin vice and broaches.

 

Plenty of saws around for cutting plastic and resin...……..you can buy a couple in a kit, small saw, big saw and a handle

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-Acto-Razor-Miter-Saw-Set-Handle-/391980579014

But, its the a bit like scribers, glue or paint - each person has there own preference or favourites, somebody will be along in a moment and recommend what they use...……………...buy one and see how you get on with it, we have members on here who are tool stockists, check out there sites

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, colin said:

I wouldn't use a power tool to cut/grind resin unless you use a face mask, cutting resin with a power tools is creating a very fine dust which you don't don't want to be breathing in or have floating around your house.

Oh certainly, I'd wear a mask and maybe even do it next to an open door. I wear my respirator when I sawed some bits of resin over a bin :P

16 minutes ago, dogsbody said:

I'm not too sure just what rpm I was using. I think I had it set at about 2 on the dial, maybe a bit faster. I just went by feel. Definitely not full speed. That just melts plastic.

On the tip lights I just roughed in the shape until I was  close then switched to small hand files to get the proper shape. I then smoothed it out using fine grade Squadron sanding sticks.

 

 

Chris

Cool

1 minute ago, rayprit said:

I model in resin quiet a lot and even though I have a Dremel close at hand, never consider using it for cutting pour blocks and with Accurate Armour they are big.  I always use a saw, clogs the teeth up, but a quick wipe across the teeth with a wire brush soon cleans it up, if I do happen to use the Dremel for resin, it will be a short burst of seconds...…..I stuff cotton wool up my nose!!!(even though I have various face masks)

I forget the last time I used my Dremel for Resin, relie entirely on pin vice and broaches.

 

Plenty of saws around for cutting plastic and resin...……..you can buy a couple in a kit, small saw, big saw and a handle

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/X-Acto-Razor-Miter-Saw-Set-Handle-/391980579014

But, its the a bit like scribers, glue or paint - each person has there own preference or favourites, somebody will be along in a moment and recommend what they use...……………...buy one and see how you get on with it, we have members on here who are tool stockists, check out there sites

Hmm. A saw would probably cover most areas. I've used a mix of a little saw, knife and pliers (to snap stubs off where applicable). Some of the stowage I got recently has the stubs go in amongst some curved detail which was difficult to get to. 

 

Maybe a sturdy saw would be more cost effective for me. 

 

Thanks for the replies, guys :)

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, GazB said:

Some of the stowage I got recently has the stubs go in amongst some curved detail which was difficult to get to. 

 

I have about 6-7 types of saws for various jobs!         Gaz, it sounds like you  need a "Flexible saw"?  Many years ago, I bought a set of "Micro saws"--------------- they were called - and made by Tri-tools; wafer thin, virtually indestructible and fit between finger and thumb and can cut around bends(dependant on your skill). Some good news and bad news?  First, the bad news, they went out of business years ago, now the good news, Hasegawa, knowing how good the product was, bought all the tooling for the product and now produce it(They retained Tri-tools name - but spelt it different)...………...I don't see it being sold anywhere in England(Stand to be corrected), but, it is sold in Japan by the hundreds and costs less than £10 and that includes P&P and takes less than 3 weeks to get to the UK.  The set I have has never worn out and still is going strong.  I use mainly for cutting intricate parts on Resin Sprues and ideal for cutting around the tyre pour blocks on wheels...……...did a great job of the 20 plus tyres of The Accurate Armour Antar, Scammell Explorer and many more, theres enough flex in the blades to get around many bends.  Hasegawa make a number of saw sets for the modeller, but the original Tri-Tool set on set 3(or TP3)sounds like the one that you want……………...these blades saved me a lot of trouble over the years and anyone using them I am sure will also find them very helpful...……...they give a much finer and neater cut than your normal razor saws...……..Please note AGAIN, there are other saws, YOU need Set3(TP3) no other set unless you want to

 

This is the place and pack that you can get them from:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasegawa-Tri-tool-modeling-saw-set-saw-set-plastic-model-tool-TP3-JP/292739578260?hash=item4428a37994:g:T6gAAOSwE8VbpuKT

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the Xacto saws mentioned above and I also have some CMK razor saw blades, one of which I have mounted in a larger Xacto handle;

 

40600300012_597a5b5b41_b.jpg

 

 

While trying to see if I could cut a CMK blade in two, so as to make a thinner saw, it shattered. I have mounted a piece into twist drill bit and use it for small jobs like removing parts from sprues. It works better than snips on small, thin parts.

 

26937529567_af6be4688a_b.jpg

 

 

Chris

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, rayprit said:

I have about 6-7 types of saws for various jobs!         Gaz, it sounds like you  need a "Flexible saw"?  Many years ago, I bought a set of "Micro saws"--------------- they were called - and made by Tri-tools; wafer thin, virtually indestructible and fit between finger and thumb and can cut around bends(dependant on your skill). Some good news and bad news?  First, the bad news, they went out of business years ago, now the good news, Hasegawa, knowing how good the product was, bought all the tooling for the product and now produce it(They retained Tri-tools name - but spelt it different)...………...I don't see it being sold anywhere in England(Stand to be corrected), but, it is sold in Japan by the hundreds and costs less than £10 and that includes P&P and takes less than 3 weeks to get to the UK.  The set I have has never worn out and still is going strong.  I use mainly for cutting intricate parts on Resin Sprues and ideal for cutting around the tyre pour blocks on wheels...……...did a great job of the 20 plus tyres of The Accurate Armour Antar, Scammell Explorer and many more, theres enough flex in the blades to get around many bends.  Hasegawa make a number of saw sets for the modeller, but the original Tri-Tool set on set 3(or TP3)sounds like the one that you want……………...these blades saved me a lot of trouble over the years and anyone using them I am sure will also find them very helpful...……...they give a much finer and neater cut than your normal razor saws...……..Please note AGAIN, there are other saws, YOU need Set3(TP3) no other set unless you want to

 

This is the place and pack that you can get them from:

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hasegawa-Tri-tool-modeling-saw-set-saw-set-plastic-model-tool-TP3-JP/292739578260?hash=item4428a37994:g:T6gAAOSwE8VbpuKT

Nice, thanks rayprit ^-^/

2 hours ago, dogsbody said:

I have the Xacto saws mentioned above and I also have some CMK razor saw blades, one of which I have mounted in a larger Xacto handle;

 

40600300012_597a5b5b41_b.jpg

 

 

While trying to see if I could cut a CMK blade in two, so as to make a thinner saw, it shattered. I have mounted a piece into twist drill bit and use it for small jobs like removing parts from sprues. It works better than snips on small, thin parts.

 

26937529567_af6be4688a_b.jpg

 

 

Chris

Yikes. I had one of my No.11 blades sheer where it was fixed into my handle. Went flying off and still haven't determined where it ended up. 

 

Gaz

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my experience each manufacturer uses a different thread on the front of the tool (where you attach the flexi-shaft). So in order to make sure it works on your Dremel you'll need to buy a Dremel flexi-shaft. Proxonn tools are nice, but you'll need the power supply to go with it (for the tool in your link at least). Pretty sure it's more cost effective to get the correct attachment for the Dremel you already have. And, like everyone already mentioned: make sure you use a face mask when cutting resin. I would also use an extractor if you have one to make sure the dust is quickly collected and doesn't start floating around the room.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, bmwh548 said:

From my experience each manufacturer uses a different thread on the front of the tool (where you attach the flexi-shaft). So in order to make sure it works on your Dremel you'll need to buy a Dremel flexi-shaft. Proxonn tools are nice, but you'll need the power supply to go with it (for the tool in your link at least). Pretty sure it's more cost effective to get the correct attachment for the Dremel you already have. And, like everyone already mentioned: make sure you use a face mask when cutting resin. I would also use an extractor if you have one to make sure the dust is quickly collected and doesn't start floating around the room.

I do have an extractor tube for my spray booth, would have to plonk it out the window. At the moment I may spring for the Tamiya saw and a pair of Tamiya side cutters (my original pair is probably 15 years old and starting to struggle a bit), and get them for roughly the same as the tool on its own.

 

Thanks, though bmwh548

 

Gaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thing esp if you're not confident or just not sure is hold the piece as securely as possible ,try not to hold it in your hands if at all possible so it won't move , only the tool. The "secret" of a good cut is Hi speed and light feed, let the tool cut and not you pushing it ,no need to force it , gentle with it ,there is no rush and keeps the heat down . You will probably damage  the tool ,the piece you're cutting/drilling and you when it flies out the other side ., scattering stuff all over your bench .

 

You are unsure so have a practice , see how it feels and  worse case you mess the test piece  up and not your job

 

Mask AND Goggles ..Goggles, Goggles .

Only one pair of eyes and can't get new ones .At the speeds those cutters go at it's like shrapnel .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Did you ever sort out what you use with resin and other bits of cutting? I too am a bit gun shy of using my dremel tools, never used it on such delicate materials.

 

My set, if it still works, has the flex bit, a router piece, a planar and some other fancy stuff. I have never figured out what half the accessories are even used for. I need to test it, and if still functional, start watching videos to see how it will help me with modeling.

 

Anthony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...