First Tamiya Motorbike Kit questions....

[andmarsh]

Hi Everyone

 

New to the Forum,  was after a bit of advice, please.

Coming from painting 28mm Napoleonics, I wanted to try something different- was in Hobbycraft the weekend and ended up walking out with one of these

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/154512/

 

I guess my first question would be regarding paints - as I have a load of Vallejo acrylics from painting 28mm figures- would these be ok to use with the Tamiya motorbike?

or is it going to require purchasing an airbrush??

 

Many Thanks

Andy

[Parabat]

You could get an airbrush, but I imagine that you also just get some spray paint plastic primer and some white spray paint. Whether Tamiya spray or Halfords (insert any other type here) it should be ok. You can use your other paints to do smaller detail painting by brush.

[andmarsh]

4 minutes ago, Parabat said:

You could get an airbrush, but I imagine that you also just get some spray paint plastic primer and some white spray paint. Whether Tamiya spray or Halfords (insert any other type here) it should be ok. You can use your other paints to do smaller detail painting by brush.

thanks

 

So with the smaller parts - they would all still require priming I take it,  would you do that on/off the sprue??

[Parabat]

Up to you with the 'on or off the sprue' option, I've seen both done but I would prefer to do it off, to allow part clean up and even partial assembly where appropriate to aid priming.

[Spiny]

9 hours ago, andmarsh said:

thanks

 

So with the smaller parts - they would all still require priming I take it,  would you do that on/off the sprue??

If you're planning on using the Vallejo acrylics on the small parts, I'd just use the same procedure you use normally - bottom line is it's just paint on plastic whatever the shape is. I can't comment on Vallejo acrylics, but with Revell, Humbrol and Tamiya acrylics (all I've done so far) I haven't used primer when brush painting, but have usually needed a couple of layers to get a good finish. The use of spray paint (whether can or airbrush) on the larger parts is more for getting a good finish than anything else - the large surfaces tend to show the brushmarks.

[Wonky Donkey]

Welcome along! 

 

I've built quite a few Tamiya bike kits over the years. I've not used an airbrush on any of them as until just recently I didn't own one.

 

I don't prime the smaller parts unless I've had to do any sanding or filling to joins. I do give all the parts (on their sprues) a good clean first, though. 

 

Bodywork, I either use a rattle can (tamiya usually) or brush paint - several thin layers and a good brush. I've had decent results with both. Mind, I'd probably not be too keen on brush painting large fairing panels. My ZX-RR is in the "ready for inspection" forum and that's done as described above - green bits is rattle can, the rest is brush painted. 

 

Basically, I'd say give it a go with what you know and assess how you get on. 

 

Mick.. 

[D1fuN0]

Morning Chaps 

 

Welcome and Howzit Andy  

Like the other chaps have mentioned, Vallejo will be fine for the frame and engine, you're just going to be using basically Aluminium, Silver and Semi Gloss Black, but I would use a white basecoat though. My usual MO is that I spray all the sprues with Tamiya Fine White basecoat and then clean the parts as I take them off the sprues. I've built a whole heap of Tamiya bikes and it's just the way I prefer doing it.

What I would buy tho is a can of Tamiya TS7 Racing White and TS 13 Clear as well as some decal setting solution. All of the colour on the bike is supplied as decals (IIRC) so you are going to need something to help soften them up to conform to the body shape and then seal the whole lot with the Clear   

 

 

[andmarsh]

Hey

 

Good morning and thanks to everyone for your valuable help- seems like a nice forum

I attempted after applying a Grey spray Primer to use a Vallejo Black acrylic on the engine - I wasn't too impressed with the results!

 

Another trip to Hobbycraft, and purchase of 12 Tamiya Paints, I was much more happy with the results on the engine.  I like how I could paint straight from the pot as well, after some serious stirring....

 

Think i will need to get hold of the Red and White Tamiya sprays for the fairings.

 

Madsteve - regarding the TS 13 Clear - is this just like a spray gloss varnish to cover the bike once it's completed??

 

Thanks Andy

 

 

[Spiny]

10 hours ago, andmarsh said:

 

Madsteve - regarding the TS 13 Clear - is this just like a spray gloss varnish to cover the bike once it's completed??

 

Thanks Andy

 

 

That's exactly what it is. It's best to use it prior to final assembly though. You could use it after the colour coat and before the decals if you want the decals to look like decals, or alternatively you can add the decals after the colour coat then seal them in with a top couple of coats of TS13. Ideally you'd look to put one or two mist coats of clear over the decals first to minimise the chance of the clear reacting with them.

[Steve Noble]

To be fair you chose a fairly complicated colour scheme for your first bike model, but with a little care it should be good. My opinion, for what it's worth is to use Tamiya TS sprays for the main body colours. TS-26 white and TS-49 red. Personally for the best result I would mask and paint the larger red areas and then use the decals for the other bits. Applying those large red decals without wrinkles is tricky, but paint lays onto the curves easily and without fuss.  You can scan/photocopy the decal sheet and make masking templates in order to accomplish this. I would be looking at painting the red areas on the fairing top, fairing side, and side panel/tank bottom, instead of attempting those large red decals, but it's up to you to decide how you do it, just giving my advice as to how I'd tackle it. 

Again from  personal opinion I would keep away from TS-13 clear. I've used it in the past and it has the ability to melt decals as it's a hot product. It needs extreme care in it's use. Mr Top Coat is safe over decals, so I'd recommend that instead for someone just starting out. Or something equivalent that's kind to decals. Again from a personal view I always remove all parts from the sprues, clean up the attachment points and assemble where possible parts that are the same colour. It makes sense to do it this way so that I'm not cleaning up the parts and repainting/touching in the attachment points. Or getting glue onto the painted parts when assembling and ruining the paint finish. I don't prime every part (I use Tamiya or Mr Color paints) for most of the non bodywork colours and spray them onto bare plastic. But I always prime the body parts which on your model would be tank, seat unit, fairing and front mudguard. I would spray them all white first, then mask and apply the red, allow to dry, trim the red areas from the decals and apply the remaining areas of decal, allow a few days drying time before applying your chosen clear coat over the entire part, then more drying and finally a light polish with Tamiya rubbing compound or equivalent. I've given you a lot of info, if you need any clarification or get stuck along the way, please ask and I'll try to point you in the right direction. Bikes can be tricky to get just right but are very rewarding when built correctly..

Edited October 1, 2018 by Steve Noble

[Steve Noble]

Just had a good look at the decals on Spotmodel and notice that the white number 3's and other sponsors are both printed within the red background but also printed separately, so you can mask and paint the red or use the decals, whatever you choose..

[andmarsh]

2 hours ago, Steve Noble said:

To be fair you chose a fairly complicated colour scheme for your first bike model, but with a little care it should be good. My opinion, for what it's worth is to use Tamiya TS sprays for the main body colours. TS-26 white and TS-49 red. Personally for the best result I would mask and paint the larger red areas and then use the decals for the other bits. Applying those large red decals without wrinkles is tricky, but paint lays onto the curves easily and without fuss.  You can scan/photocopy the decal sheet and make masking templates in order to accomplish this. I would be looking at painting the red areas on the fairing top, fairing side, and side panel/tank bottom, instead of attempting those large red decals, but it's up to you to decide how you do it, just giving my advice as to how I'd tackle it. 

Again from  personal opinion I would keep away from TS-13 clear. I've used it in the past and it has the ability to melt decals as it's a hot product. It needs extreme care in it's use. Mr Top Coat is safe over decals, so I'd recommend that instead for someone just starting out. Or something equivelant that's kind to decals. Again from a personal view I always remove all parts from the sprues, clean up the attachment points and assemble where possible parts that are the same colour. It makes sense to do it this way so that I'm not cleaning up the parts and repainting/touching in the attachment points. Or getting glue onto the painted parts when assembling and ruining the paint finish. I don't prime every part (I use Tamiya or Mr Color paints) for most of the non bodywork colours and spray them onto bare plastic. But I always prime the body parts which on your model would be tank, seat unit, fairing and front mudguard. I would spray them all white first, then mask and apply the red, allow to dry, trim the red areas from the decals and apply the remaining areas of decal, allow a few days drying time before applying your chosen clear coat over the entire part, then more drying and finally a light polish with Tamiya rubbing compound or equivelant. I've given you a lot of info, if you need any clarification or get stuck along the way, please ask and I'll try to point you in the right direction. Bikes can be tricky to get just right but are very rewarding when built correctly..

wow,  thanks for all that information really appreciate it

I have been a little underwhelmed with the Tamiya white spray I used on the fairing- even after using a white primer spray - the Tamiya white spray has dried to a matte finish, not the glossy look I was expecting.

 

I guess I can try the Mr top coat on the bike once its all assembled, or I was thinking of picking up a different brand Gloss white spray from Halfords maybe?

 

Microsol on order to help me applying the decals :)

 

[Steve Noble]

3 minutes ago, andmarsh said:

wow,  thanks for all that information really appreciate it

I have been a little underwhelmed with the Tamiya white spray I used on the fairing- even after using a white primer spray - the Tamiya white spray has dried to a matte finish, not the glossy look I was expecting.

 

I guess I can try the Mr top coat on the bike once its all assembled, or I was thinking of picking up a different brand Gloss white spray from Halfords maybe?

 

Microsol on order to help me applying the decals

 

Which spray have you used from Tamiya for the white? Is it TS-26 in the aerosol spray can? Also which primer are you using?

Edited October 1, 2018 by Steve Noble

[andmarsh]

28 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

Which spray have you used from Tamiya for the white? Is it TS-26 in the aerosol spray can? Also which primer are you using?

TS-26 aerosol -  used Hicote Plastic white primer 

I do have some Vallejo gloss varnish I was thinking about applying with a flat brush

 

[Steve Noble]

8 minutes ago, andmarsh said:

TS-26 aerosol -  used Hicote Plastic white primer 

I do have some Vallejo gloss varnish I was thinking about applying with a flat brush

 

The TS-26 can be a little thin. Allow it to dry, give it a gentle flat with some wet and dry, maybe 1500 grit used wet, to smooth the surface and then apply some more paint. Also you can warm the can slightly using a bowl of warm water. It helps the paint to flow and level better when it's warm. You can repeat that process a few times, the drying/flatting recoating, until you get a nice gloss to the paint. It's basically just smoothing the surface between coats..

[andmarsh]

12 minutes ago, Steve Noble said:

The TS-26 can be a little thin. Allow it to dry, give it a gentle flat with some wet and dry, maybe 1500 grit used wet, to smooth the surface and then apply some more paint. Also you can warm the can slightly using a bowl of warm water. It helps the paint to flow and level better when it's warm. You can repeat that process a few times, the drying/flatting recoating, until you get a nice gloss to the paint. It's basically just smoothing the surface between coats..

regarding decals - should these be applied before or after sealing with a gloss varnish??

[Steve Noble]

11 hours ago, andmarsh said:

regarding decals - should these be applied before or after sealing with a gloss varnish??

Myself if using gloss paints such as Tamiya TS, I would apply the decals straight onto the gloss paint surface, allow a good few days, maybe a week if possible for the decals to dry, then apply your final clear coat. You don't have to gloss the decals. It's personal choice. I do usually apply a gloss coat, mainly to give a uniform finish, but also to protect the decals.

Edited October 1, 2018 by Steve Noble

[andmarsh]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4tHpVgqFTgUVMrLr8

 

Well, its a bit messy - and the decals were a nightmare, i ended up touching up with red paint

not too bad for a first attempt

 

can someone help me with inserting photos- the link I'm using to google photos does not insert an image?

 

cheers