zebra Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 This will be another well-worth-following Big X build I think! I remember using the hot screwdriver method on a few tank tracks. Gave myself a few little burns along the way. Good way of learning one of those valuable childhood lessons - that hot things are hot! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 16 minutes ago, zebra said: This will be another well-worth-following Big X build I think! I remember using the hot screwdriver method on a few tank tracks. Gave myself a few little burns along the way. Good way of learning one of those valuable childhood lessons - that hot things are hot! That reminds me of an explanation of Einstein's theory of relativity... "Grab hold of a hot pan and a second can seem like an hour. Put your hands on a hot woman, an hour can seem like a second. It's all relative" ...quote from the movie Deep Blue Sea (1999) 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Once the back was in place I noticed this gap... ...you can push as hard as you like - it simply doesn't reach. I hope this is not a harbinger of things to come. It is only visible from the outside if you turn the tank upside down - so 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 I am conscious that those Sherman 'experten' might secretly be watching me - so I fished out a diagram that gives the correct 'technical' terms for all those flippin wheels and cogs... ...armed with this knowledge of tech speak I attached the rear idler wheels... ...and the track drive sprockets... ...how good do I sound 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkSH Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 You're a quick study X but personally I prefer "flippin' wheels and cogs" as a technical term.... although 'Vertical Volute Spring Suspension' does have certain ring to it, probably better than 'The bouncy, up and downy bit' anyway every day's a school day on BM. Good work on the clanky tanky thing BTW. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamevender Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Aingnment/fit of parts on this kit is very problematic as there are no real "locators" for the hull sides and if you don't get them just so, the rear plate and tranny housing don't quite fit, thus the gap you noticed at the rear. The instructions are no real help with parts sort of floating into their general location. I don't know how all those kiddies years ago got this baby together. It just takes lots of dry- fitting, testing and re-dry-fitting. As to the tracks, I turn them inside out, hold them in a loop and tape them to my work surface (glass in my case) so that the ends just meet. I then work that one little "pip" on one end through the hole in the other and make sure I get as much of it through the hole that I can so that when it is melted, there is enough of a "blob" to hold it in place. The tape holds everything in place while I do this. As to the heated screw driver, if you're not careful, you'll melt right through the track. I use a larger paperclip. It heats faster and allows you to control how much heat you use and where. Don't over do it. If you do, you won't have anything to keep the ends together. When it's done, I re-enforce the joint with just a drop of superglue. I know it doesn't adhere well to vinyl, but it adds just a bit of tooth to the joint. Don't put a lot of tension on it however you joint them. It's just not a solid joint anyway you do it. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 21 minutes ago, gamevender said: Aingnment/fit of parts on this kit is very problematic as there are no real "locators" for the hull sides and if you don't get them just so, the rear plate and tranny housing don't quite fit, thus the gap you noticed at the rear. The instructions are no real help with parts sort of floating into their general location. I don't know how all those kiddies years ago got this baby together. It just takes lots of dry- fitting, testing and re-dry-fitting. As to the tracks, I turn them inside out, hold them in a loop and tape them to my work surface (glass in my case) so that the ends just meet. I then work that one little "pip" on one end through the hole in the other and make sure I get as much of it through the hole that I can so that when it is melted, there is enough of a "blob" to hold it in place. The tape holds everything in place while I do this. As to the heated screw driver, if you're not careful, you'll melt right through the track. I use a larger paperclip. It heats faster and allows you to control how much heat you use and where. Don't over do it. If you do, you won't have anything to keep the ends together. When it's done, I re-enforce the joint with just a drop of superglue. I know it doesn't adhere well to vinyl, but it adds just a bit of tooth to the joint. Don't put a lot of tension on it however you joint them. It's just not a solid joint anyway you do it. Thanks for the tips Sir - Like you I have my table topped with 4mm toughened glass - it's amazing how much paint and glue you can drop on it - before getting a razor blade out and cleaning it like new. Your right - it is proving to be a bit of a beggar to get together - but I'm only doing for a bit of fun - so I'm not stressing too much. I never considered the fact that I can turn the tracks inside out - that will help a lot with the painting. Please feel free to keep an eye on me and chip in if you spot me going wrong. Cheers Steve 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 34 minutes ago, MarkSH said: You're a quick study X but personally I prefer "flippin' wheels and cogs" as a technical term.... although 'Vertical Volute Spring Suspension' does have certain ring to it, probably better than 'The bouncy, up and downy bit' anyway every day's a school day on BM. Good work on the clanky tanky thing BTW. Hey Mark - I am getting close to fitting the 'Vertical Volute Spring Suspension' - that phrase just rolls off the tongue doesn't it 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Now the 'Vertical Volute Spring Suspension' has dried I fitted the rear part of the 'bogies'... oh - I didn't spot that lovely part number before... I have only test fitted the top of the hull for now - The front seam is going to need a bit of attention... ...and the rear looks a little blank here - I will have to have a google and see if I am missing something... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Well it seems the back is pretty accurate - not a lot going on in this area of the hull - these are some pictures Steve Carr sent me a while back AKA @Army_Air_Force - thanks.... ...and there are those rubber tracks that @badger alluded to... ...now I have something to aim at trackwise. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawzer Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 As always attention to detail! 👍 😁 You gonna put this on the dio? 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 7 minutes ago, Lawzer said: As always attention to detail! 👍😁 You gonna put this on the dio? I might put in the bin yet... @badger sent me something new and 'shiny' today... It's a great expression I hadn't heard before - but I definitely have 'shiny syndrome'. Basically it means you are 'drawn' to new and exciting things - until the next new and exciting thing comes along and so on... ...I'm rambling gain aren't I 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Anyway - enough of the waffle - back to work - with the backs of the 'Vertical Volute Spring Suspension units' set solid it's time to get them on the 'lower hull'... ...along with the 'track support rollers'. Sadly there are no 'track support skids' - but I'll be beggared if I'm going to try and make some. Not the neatest job in the world... I think I may have made the holes in the hull a little too big - time for a bit of gentle squeezing as they dry, 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 I like how the track is labelled on that diagram. 9 minutes ago, BIG X said: Sadly there are no 'track support skids' There are rollers on the suspension units you have. I'm surprised that no one has posted a picture of Donald Sutherlands' Sherman from Kelly's Heroes. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badger Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 Coming along nicely for what is a "challenging" kit. For all it's faults it is an iconic piece of modelling history. Glad you like the "shiny syndrome" expression. I definitely have it!! All the best Ben 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 OK - no more negative waves - we'll come back to the lower hull later 'Move along folks - there's nothing to see here' - lets look a the upper hull instead As Ben describes it above - this is an iconic piece of modelling history... Here is the hull - on the right - compared to a 'toy sherman' from PSC... ...as you can see there is a size difference - the PSC is 1/72 and the Airfix is 1/76 - even so - it is certainly 'showing it's age' even for an icon. The PSC is all pre-moulded - but the detail is crisp - the Airfix has only hatch covers and a machine gun to add to 'dress it up'. The tools are a good example along with the filler cap thingies just behind the turret mount on both sides. I think it needs a little love and a makeover by Trinny and Suzanna... ...do you remember them 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 The hatch covers are on and the machine gun is in place - I KNOW I'm going to regret putting that on so early - it's bound to get snapped - but I can't help 'living dangerously'... ...if I didn't mess a round with it then it would be nearly done... ...but where's the fun in that - so lets see what we can mess with... From left to right - The lifting hooks are non existant so I'm going to 'make some' / the experts say that lots of shermans had extra armour plate added in strategic positions / so I'll make some of them / those 'pipe cleaners' for the barrel add a bit of interest / finally some hooks for the back. Firstly the hooks at the front... ...as you can see it is just a raised lump and not very raised at that. On the PSC firefly I built the 'lump' was very pronounced - so I carefully drilled through it to make the hooks. These are too low for that - so out with the scalpel / drill / fuse wire. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Good afternoon my modelling friends. After I signed off last night I went and did a bit of 'tinkering' - whilst I was all fired up from your encouragement. Here is what I got up to... The consensus of opinion was that the Sherman needed a bit of 'cosmetic surgery' - now I'm more of a butcher than a surgeon - but I did my best. First up were the lifting hooks on the front - again thanks to @Army_Air_Force for the pictures he sent me a while back - they are really useful - so here is the 'real thing'... Now on a lot of 1/35 models I have seen these done with wire - but this is 1/76 and my eyesight wasn't the best at 10pm last night - but this is what I ended up with... passible if you screw your eyes up and squint. Then it was onto some extra armour plate... maybe a 'bit too' rounded off around the edges but it is only 8mm x 10mm and I have sausage fingers. Trust me - from the other side of the room it looks great. If you turn the light out it looks even better 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 Now it could have been the exhilaration of my achievements - or more likely the wine - but I pressed on. More extra armour plating was required for the other side - as per our reference photos... ...and some more hooks for the rear... I drilled the holes - very skillfully - then remembered those pipe cleaner things... ...so I knocked up them too... I needed a lie down after that, 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ventora3300 Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 Steve - I am mightily impressed at how you are adding all this detail at 1/76 without having globs of glue everywhere. However, that glue could represent the welds around the additional armour plate if you let cement squidge out, semi-dry then touch with an edge to produce the ripples? Loving this build. Cheers. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 3 minutes ago, Ventora3300 said: Steve - I am mightily impressed at how you are adding all this detail at 1/76 without having globs of glue everywhere. However, that glue could represent the welds around the additional armour plate if you let cement squidge out, semi-dry then touch with an edge to produce the ripples? Loving this build. Cheers. Mike OMG - my eyes aren't up to that level of detail - just stand further back - it looks great from over there 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 It's Turret Time... The machine gun in the turret housing was a complete non-starter - just a lump of plastic - that I would also doubtless snap off - so I used a sewing pin - minus the sharp end of course - it'll probably have my eye out at some stage... I waited until it had set before chopping the back bit off. Next up on the 'add a bit of interest' theme was a box on the back of the turret. This is a radio box used on some tanks to create extra space in the turret... ...as you can see a hole in the back of the turret was crated so you could get to it and here's another... As my tank is a command tank it would have extra radios - now that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it... ...if anyone disagrees - then it a cooler box for the beers 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 The turret hatch is of the 'split hatch' design and I decided to have it posed open. The only problem was there is only detail on the 'outside' of the hatch - so I mounted them the wrong way up - ON PURPOSE... ...as you can see from 'the real thing' - there is detail inside - so it works for me... Now don't worry about all that detail inside - I have a cunning plan. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted September 11, 2018 Share Posted September 11, 2018 18 hours ago, BIG X said: Here is the hull - on the right - compared to a 'toy sherman' from PSC... ...as you can see there is a size difference - the PSC is 1/72 and the Airfix is 1/76 - even so - it is certainly 'showing it's age' even for an icon. The PSC is all pre-moulded - but the detail is crisp - the Airfix has only hatch covers and a machine gun to add to 'dress it up'. The tools are a good example along with the filler cap thingies just behind the turret mount on both sides. The difference in length is not entirely down to the different scale. The PSC kit has the engine decking of a M4A4 Sherman V, which was about 1 foot (about 4mm in 1/76) longer than all other Sherman marks (it had a Chevrolet WC Multibank engine: 5 car engines driving a common crankshaft!). No difference in width though. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted September 11, 2018 Author Share Posted September 11, 2018 6 minutes ago, Seahawk said: The difference in length is not entirely down to the different scale. The PSC kit has the engine decking of a M4A4 Sherman V, which was about 1 foot (about 4mm in 1/76) longer than all other Sherman marks (it had a Chevrolet WC Multibank engine: 5 car engines driving a common crankshaft!). No difference in width though. AHA - BRILLIANT - Thanks Seahawk - you are a hero. I knew some Sherman experts would find me eventually - I'll try not to do anything 'too offensive'. What do you think of the job so far... Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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