KonaDawg Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Hello all,  Need some advice please. I've got the car to this stage using tamiya spray cans. Tried decanting the paint and spraying through the airbrush but did not get the thinning correct 😕. I'll practice that but in the mean time, should I just go ahead and shoot some tamiya x22 clear on top of the blue or should I go over it with a very fine grit paper????? The gloss is quite nice but it's not glossy enough 🤔. I'll post the pics in a mo. Thanks for any inputs. Edited September 5, 2018 by KonaDawg Spellings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Pics.   To sand or not to sand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Looking at the pics, especially the first one, I would say yes, sand. Preferably wet, with very fine grit, 2000 and up. Maybe even spray the colour again after that, if needed. Although could be that sanding it down is not enough and you would need to "reboot"... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 With all those compound curves and intrincated shapes, it's going to be very difficult to achieve an even surface, and just a sanding won't be enough, if you want to get a smooth finish....That orange peel effect happens because the paint gets almost dry on the model. I'd remove all the paint from the model, and start all over again. When you decant paint from the can, it's already thinned. You jast need to set the paint apart for a while until the propellant completely evaporates, otherwise, your room will turn into a colourful birthday party... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 Thanks gents. I did let the paint gas off for about an hour. It stopped bubbling and then I tried a could of different thinning mediums. Tamiya and ultimate thinner. It seems pretty heavy once it's gassed off though......Airbrush took one look and fell apart in terror... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artie Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Most probably you let the paint apart too long, and it started drying.....the propellant has nothing to do with the thinning...It usually takes about ten minutes to be degassed.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 That's possible Artie.... Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 I would maybe do a light wet sand with a 600 grit sandpaper and then a couple of light mist coats right out of the can. I would turn the model upside down and shoot the lower section, wheel well openings and anywhere there is crevice or hard to get spot. Then after letting dry I'd flip it over and shoot the top half. If you spend too much time trying to sand it now you will burn through the color and be down to the primer or bare plastic. The next coat of paint will start to fill in the low spots of the orange peel and give you something to sand to smooth out. The whole point of using a clear coat is to apply a good smooth layer of color is as few coats as possible; preferably one or two. Then you should probably get 2-3 coats of clear on it before sanding anything other than a spec of dust off. If you start sanding the clear too soon then you will go right through into the color and, then you're starting over. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Cheers larchifeng, appreciate your time and thoughts. I'll get some fine grit paper today and see how it goes. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 I'm not sure which Tamiya spray your using but I pretty sure the thinner in them is lacquer based, Ultimate is ipa and if your using Tamiya X20A that's the same. Try (if you have any) Mr Levelling thinner as this retards the paint drying slightly allowing you to build the gloss up without putting heavy coats down trying to get a gloss coat. Also I've found that you can mist it neat over their paint and it levels them out very nicely, especially the X22 clear. I also thin the spray can paint, as you say they still seem quite thick after you decant them I think the thinners don't suit the paint 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Cheers Colin. I tried ultimate thinner, tamiya x20a and my girlfriend's nail varnish remover. Interestingly the product card for the ultimate thinner does say specifically to thin Tamiya paint 50:50. Guess it's actually refering to the little acrylic pots and not the spray cans...... I've got some plastic spoons to mess around with so will see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Why not spray straight from the can? Saves you a lot of thinning issues I'd say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colin Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 3 hours ago, KonaDawg said: Cheers Colin. I tried ultimate thinner, tamiya x20a and my girlfriend's nail varnish remover. Interestingly the product card for the ultimate thinner does say specifically to thin Tamiya paint 50:50. Guess it's actually refering to the little acrylic pots and not the spray cans...... I've got some plastic spoons to mess around with so will see. Try and get some Mr Levelling thinners, best stuff I have found for thinning their own and Tamiya paints, although you definitely need a mask and extractor if you want to spray indoors 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 I'll have a look Colin. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyOneTwoFour Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 As by now Tamiya have confirmed that the new series of laquer paints ("LP" series in jars) is (chemically) identical to the stuff in the cans, I would suggest to use this LP thinner here. There are 2 products available: Tamiya Laquer Thinner (in either a 250 ml bottle or 10 ml jar) and the same stuff with the additional name "Retarder Type". I would go for the first one in this case. By the way, what nozzle/needle size have you been using? I once decanted only a small amount of TS colour for doing some minor repair work and I used the 0.4 mm size without having any trouble. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 7, 2018 Author Share Posted September 7, 2018 Thanks Tommy124. Appreciate your comments. I think I it's a .3 but will check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 9, 2018 Author Share Posted September 9, 2018 On 9/6/2018 at 11:35 AM, JeroenS said: Why not spray straight from the can? Saves you a lot of thinning issues I'd say. Hi Jeroens, I must have missed your post. I was just experimenting. Watched a few videos of guys decanting and getting very nice results.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 I can confirm that Mr Levelling thinners works really well with Tamiya acrylics. I have sprayed a Porsche 911 with XF7 and X20 (clear) thinned with Mt Levelling thinners, and the results are vey pleasing... Â Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted September 9, 2018 Share Posted September 9, 2018 12 hours ago, KonaDawg said: Hi Jeroens, I must have missed your post. I was just experimenting. Watched a few videos of guys decanting and getting very nice results.  Like you, I also had my first go at decanting paint from a rattle can to put through the airbrush (preparation for the next but one project). Things I found out include that decanting can be a messy job if you press to hard and splash all the paint back at yourself (!) and that you can achieve a good result with less paint with the airbrush. But the biggest lesson was to always make sure you decant enough paint to complete whatever job you're on with - I didn't and the airbrush blocked while I was decanting and degassing the next load of paint.🤬 End result, I had to finish off with the rattlecan anyway, and still give the airbrush a good clean to unblock it. (I *think* this is sort of on topic, apologies if not) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TommyOneTwoFour Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 19 hours ago, Alan R said: I can confirm that Mr Levelling thinners works really well with Tamiya acrylics. I have sprayed a Porsche 911 with XF7 and X20 (clear) thinned with Mt Levelling thinners, and the results are vey pleasing... Note that the contents in the cans ("TS" products) are way different from the normal acrylics. See my post above regarding lacquer paints... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted September 10, 2018 Share Posted September 10, 2018 2 hours ago, Tommy124 said: Note that the contents in the cans ("TS" products) are way different from the normal acrylics. Hi Thomas,  Duly noted. I think that for the TS paints, the normal thinners would be cellulose (or Lacquer in the US?) thinners.  My preferred paints are either Tamiya resin acrylics, thinnable with Mr. Color or Zero paints, thinnable with zero paints thinners, though I suspect that cellulose can be used with those as well. Haven't tried that though...  Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 Many thanks again for taking the time to reply all! I've ordered some Mr gloss and thinner so will see how those work out later. I found some zero pre thinned gloss after a rummage in the airbrush store/box/singularity/.... I bought some cellulose thinners and applied a few coats to the car. I know, impatience. But....came out ok I think Went on ok but noticed it matting quite badly half way through which was a worry. The gloss returned after a few heavier coats. Not perfect but I'm kind of happyish with it.  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatW Posted October 14, 2018 Share Posted October 14, 2018 It doesn't look too bad, but don't get the cellulose thinners on the bare plastic because it might melt it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted October 14, 2018 Author Share Posted October 14, 2018 Yeah Pat. Nasty stuff tbh. Trying to stick to less corrosive materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KonaDawg Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 Managed to find time to do a bit more on this build. Just masking and spraying the vent detail. A separate part or decal would have been welcome here 😊 Will hopefully get this finished this year!  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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