Lawzer Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Currently building a revell p47 and got to the decalling stage. decals looked in tip top condition so applied the nose art first from which a few very small peices came off. Tried 3 more and they just disintegrated on the backing paper.....😳 And of course the ones that have consigned themselves to the bin are specific to this aircraft. anyway, as it's only going to sit on the shelf i have some other decals (totally inaccurate) that i can apply but what's the best way forward for the remaining decals (stencils, serials etc)? gloss coat before putting into water? tia! ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Yeah, just brush a few coats of Klear over them and they should hold together OK. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwh548 Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Read somewhere that Microscale does a special solution for old decals. Called Liquid Decal I think. Never used it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pin Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Microscale Liquid Decal Film Ultimate solution for this problem. Apply with soft brush 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIG X Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Feeling the pain for you mate - keep your chin up buddy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 I just tried microscale liquid decal for the first time over the weekend. It works really good but i used two coats on the decals. Trimmed the carrier film very tight after it dried. Because the one i didn't trim did not survive. It pulled it self apart trying to move it off the paper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawzer Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 thanks folks! I have cobbled together some serials (from a xtradecal mosquito sheet) and stencils (left over from an academy p47). Will need to use the stars and bars from the revell decals so wish me luck I really don;t know what happened. The nose art (fairly big decals) were not really a problem but then the others just shattered. I bought the kit sealed but I guess it is getting on for 20 years old..... One question - I noted what Dennis said above about cutting the carrier film back (which makes sense!) but I suppose I should put a small bit of tape at the edge/end of the decals to "mask" it so I have something for the tweezers to hold onto? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 Hello @Lawzer .. The tape idea should work. I did not clarify in my original post as i was typing on the fly. I meant that you should trim it after painting the liquid decal film on and letting it dry. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawzer Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 14 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said: Hello @Lawzer .. The tape idea should work. I did not clarify in my original post as i was typing on the fly. I meant that you should trim it after painting the liquid decal film on and letting it dry. Thanks @Corsairfoxfouruncle - that's what i did...😁 Put 3 coats of klear (or the new version) onto the decals. A few went on ok but the fuselage stars and bars disintegrated. Think i'll leave it for a while to avoid the p47 taking a one way trip out the window..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parabat Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 10 hours ago, Lawzer said: thanks folks! I have cobbled together some serials (from a xtradecal mosquito sheet) and stencils (left over from an academy p47). Will need to use the stars and bars from the revell decals so wish me luck I really don;t know what happened. The nose art (fairly big decals) were not really a problem but then the others just shattered. I bought the kit sealed but I guess it is getting on for 20 years old..... One question - I noted what Dennis said above about cutting the carrier film back (which makes sense!) but I suppose I should put a small bit of tape at the edge/end of the decals to "mask" it so I have something for the tweezers to hold onto? You could trim close around the decal, leaving a faor size 'tab' to be held onto by tweezers etc. You could use a scalpel to slice into, but not through, the tab, which will let your closely trimmed decal have a mega thin edge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 On 8/30/2018 at 7:15 AM, Lawzer said: Put 3 coats of klear (or the new version) onto the decals. A few went on ok but the fuselage stars and bars disintegrated. Think i'll leave it for a while to avoid the p47 taking a one way trip out the window..... Some years ago before I'd heard of such things, I queried using Klear to strengthen decals & was advised it wasn't up to it, not enough tensile strength perhaps, that was when I was recommended the MsLDF, I've had great experiences with it., including making small hand made decals by painting a small panel on a clear area of a kits decal sheet, painting on my design & then floating it off the sheet like the kit decals. I'm not sure what caused Dennis's problem but I've not found it necessary to trim like that, possibly a sheet that was a reluctant releaser anyway, warm water can help withr that. Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamevender Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 Less expensive than things specific to modeling is to use any store variety gloss coat in a rattle can. Just put a light coat on the entire sheet, enough to cover each decal completely. Then let it dry. You will need to cut each decal out as if it is on a sheet with continuous carrier film as indeed it is now. Do not cut the decals out before coating them as the gloss coat will seal the edges of the decal paper and make getting them off the sheet difficult/impossible. It does make snuggling down to compound curves or over detail a bit more problematic as the decal is thicker now, but it can be done with setting solution and some patience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tentacles Posted September 1, 2018 Share Posted September 1, 2018 (edited) @Pin thanks, this is exactly what I need to finish my old Novo Canberra B8. Just ordered some. Edited September 1, 2018 by Tentacles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corsairfoxfouruncle Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) 14 hours ago, stevehnz said: I'm not sure what caused Dennis's problem but I've not found it necessary to trim like that, possibly a sheet that was a reluctant releaser anyway, warm water can help withr that. Hello Steve if anything it was the paper. I always use water in the 130* + range. I use a lot of Tamiya, Hasegawa, Academy, and Hobby Boss decals. They're all temperature sensitive due to the glue used. Ive even had issues with Eduard decals if i don't scald them. I found with the MSLDF that if i trimmed them they released, if i didn't they got stuck to the paper and tore. Admittedly this was my first time using the decal film and im still learning as well. Dennis Edited September 2, 2018 by Corsairfoxfouruncle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 I don't doubt you for a minute Dennis, though that does fly in the face of my experience & what Microscale suggest too, if you've found a way that works for you, then you'd be wise to keep at it, there is always an exception to a rule & a hell of a lot of variables out there. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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