Uss Franklin CV13 1/350

[Mariner1972]

I've finally finished my flat top after 9 months on and off. This is my 4th 1/350 ship , 1st been the Bismarck Revell straight out of box. 2nd HMS KGV (tamiya plus WMS etch) , 3rd USS New York straight out of box with etch included (Trumpeter). After learning and getting more experience using etch and other add ons , I'm slowly getting better. I use to model in the 70s 80s as a kid , the WW2 planes stuck on my ceiling. I needed something to do to relax so started modelling again , this time a more serious. I'm still learning so please give your thoughts and anything that can improve my modelling skills. 

Cheers Leon

 

 

 

Edited August 28, 2018 by Mariner1972

[spitfire]

That looks great, one day space permitting I'll build something similar.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

[Mariner1972]

Thanks, that's why I built a case out of shelves and acrylic sheets to out them in. It will go next to my Uss New York. 

[Franklin181181]

Hi Excellent work on the USS Franklin, I have just bought the kit, which PE brand did you use? I only found the USS Ticonderoga PE by Eduard and was thinking of adapting it to the Franklin.  

[Dancona]

Very nice result Leon, looks very good in the dazzle scheme, your very subtle weathering works a treat......beware though, carriers can become addictive

 

cheers

 

David

[Tojo72]

Very nice,nice job on the camo scheme

[Mariner1972]

On 08/10/2020 at 14:04, Franklin181181 said:

Hi Excellent work on the USS Franklin, I have just bought the kit, which PE brand did you use? I only found the USS Ticonderoga PE by Eduard and was thinking of adapting it to the Franklin.  

I used the Ticonderoga you are thinking off.  Very similar, I remember there are a few bits different but not much. Walkway is one of them. I looked at loads of pics of the real franklin . And adapted it that way.

 

[Mariner1972]

Dancona -  I only do 1/350 ww2 ships , currently started the North Carolina. I have a few others in stash , but already looking at another carrier , maybe Hornet or Lexington? I’ll see. One thing with US ships is there always nearly different in camo . 

[nearsightedjohn]

Beautiful job Leon on this Trumpeter carrier. I built the Essex three years ago, my first big 1/350 ship, and learned so much. I used a White Ensign Models photo etch set which I found to be very forgiving (was able to re-bend some parts that I initially bent the wrong way). I opened up and populated the hangar deck with aircraft and other objects which really multiplied the build time (didn’t realize I had to build/ paint/ decal 50 separate tiny model airplane kits!). I didn’t have the courage to do a dazzle paint scheme and painted my Essex in measure 21 blues.

I love the first bow shot photo you post in particular, it really emphasizes the realism of your build. A tip to add additional realism that I copied from other’s 1/350 WWII carrier builds I’ve seen posted is  replacement of the static props on some of the aircraft with thin disks cut from clear plastic sheet stock (packaging blister pack polyester works great).

Great job Leon, hope you continue to build and post more 1/350 ship builds in the future.

John

[Mariner1972]

Thanks, I do like USN ships as the camo is great , Razzle Dazzle. The inside is also painted, so if I decide to add more aircraft I can. The aircraft did take me 2 months to do ,on and off. I’m still learning techniques, one that I need to improve on is rigging. I’ve seen some uschi van der Rosen rigging which I will try. US ships I’ve done are :- New York- San Francisco and Indianapolis, Currently doing North Carolina. My Grandad was in the Royal Navy during WW2 so hence my interest. 🙂

[Franklin181181]

RE: Rigging, 

 

I found the rigging from Ammo excellent. It is elastic and very easy to apply. 

 

https://www.migjimenez.com/en/accessories/609-rigging-medium-fine-002-mm.html

 

I believe it is a form of ez line.

 

F

[nearsightedjohn]

I’ve had good success with EZ Line Fine for rigging both ships and aircraft and securing it with medium CA adhesive. The trick I’ve learned is to apply a slight amount of stretch (5-10%) when bonding the line, otherwise it doesn’t end up straight. Too much tension on the line can bend thin plastic masts/ aerials (which may occur over time due to plastic creep).