Courageous Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 Looking good man. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 Well after a few days visiting family in Norfolk it is back to some relaxing with PE and brass rod Been working on the masthead and radar trying to find the correct fit used for late 41 early 42 the instructions with the PE say part 46 for 41 but would part 18 be fitted also From the Osprey book it looks as though both are fitted with the top yard arm also in place any thoughts on this please This is where I,am up to so far beefy 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelholic Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Part 18 looks like a HFDF (huff duff) radio direction finder. other Tribals had it located on the after mast. There's some good shots of Eskimo after the 2nd Battle of Narvik here https://www.world-war.co.uk/destroyers.php3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 Can't help with your dilemma but I do like how Eskimo is looking Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bugle07 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Link to pic from the IWM site, from what I can see it's one or the other, not both. https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/205139827 Not sure but I think the bedstead set should be above the top yardarm? She's looking really good now Beefy, colours spot on. Geoff 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Really nice paint job and the PE work looks utterly clean and precision -like! Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 OK think I have sorted out the foremast aerial dilemma looking at the Osprey book it looked like the top yard was fitted but the antenna already had one built in so I have copied from this set up I think?? I have also been trying my hand at some weathering after seeing Salmo G build of HMS Musketeer Looking at the early photo Jamie posted it shows Eskimo was a well weathered ship at that time All the weathering is done with Windsor and Newton oils washes streaks and chipping Beefy 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 She's looking good Beefy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 Suitably subtle weathering for the scale I feel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salmo G Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 Looking good! youve nailed that dirty/used look well, I really like a weathered western approached scheme. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 This is coming along great. I like the weathering too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 12 hours ago, beefy66 said: OK think I have sorted out the foremast aerial dilemma looking at the Osprey book it looked like the top yard was fitted but the antenna already had one built in so I have copied from this set up I think?? I have also been trying my hand at some weathering after seeing Salmo G build of HMS Musketeer Looking at the early photo Jamie posted it shows Eskimo was a well weathered ship at that time All the weathering is done with Windsor and Newton oils washes streaks and chipping Beefy Hi Keith, It's looking well. Keep in mind that that still shot I posted was from 1942 though - it was filmed during Operation Pedestal during August of that year to get supplies through to Malta. If wearing B55 then she's had a fresh coat of paint (which was well overdue going by the Op Pedestal look!) after May 1943. It still dirtied up well enough but it would be fresher than the mess it looked in August 1942. B55 and White was the 1943-1945 Western Approaches combination. Prior to May 1943, there were separate Western Approaches Light Blue and Western Approaches Light Green paints . Western Approaches Light Blue, sometimes called "Peter Scott Blue" after Lieutenant Peter Scott who came up with it after studying Thayer's camouflage ideas from WW1, was a mix of purely white and ultramarine. B55 was a rationalisation of WALB, WALG and MS4A by adding green to blue and making a pale greenish blue of 55% LRV - it simplified Western Approaches schemes, was used also on Admiralty Light disruptive schemes and reduced the number of colours to keep stocked. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 great work 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted October 6, 2018 Author Share Posted October 6, 2018 Thanks for the support lads another small update Anchor chains fitted Peter Hall gave me a tip about these so as not to look to flat he said put a small twist in the chain as you fit it Started on a base coat for the ships boats and carley floats And ships name plate added cant really get a close enough picture will have to play around with camera settings a bit beefy 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 6, 2018 Share Posted October 6, 2018 2 hours ago, beefy66 said: small twist in the chain Makes sense to me, although I think I would have twisted each link, even though I never built a ship before. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted October 10, 2018 Author Share Posted October 10, 2018 On 10/6/2018 at 8:08 PM, Courageous said: Makes sense to me, although I think I would have twisted each link, even though I never built a ship before. Stuart at 1mm for each link I think my sanity would have gone out the window before I had finished doing every single one Small update added the floats /rafts and used some painted masking tape to act as the holding straps to achieve the width of the strap I wanted i used 2 blades taped together to get an even strip of tape And started making up the 20 mm and the quad Vickers not happy with how flat they look so added some plastic rod to the base will have a think about the Vickers don't like any of the kit or PE options so might go for the Tetra models version beefy 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 1 hour ago, beefy66 said: Stuart at 1mm for each link I think my sanity would have gone out the window before I had finished doing every single one Aahh, I see, didn't appreciate the size of the chain. I've just ordered some real chain that looks suitable. For future reference maybe look here. Fine work there Beefy Stuart 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted October 10, 2018 Share Posted October 10, 2018 2 hours ago, beefy66 said: i used 2 blades taped together to get an even strip of tape Brilliant idea! Excellent work on this build. Terry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 On 10/6/2018 at 8:08 PM, Courageous said: Makes sense to me, although I think I would have twisted each link, even though I never built a ship before. Stuart I did that on Imperial Stuart. It needed two pairs of tweezers but once I'd got into the swing of it it wasn't too fiddly, believe it or not! The difficulty is not bending the chain along its length as you twist the join between each link. All I did was hold two links in the two pairs of tweezers and twist the one in my right hand approximately 90 degrees, then move the tweezers along one link and repeat. I will try to remember to take a photo of the chains later. They look ok, but I failed somewhat in the "keeping the chain straight" regard. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 It does sound like a tedious job but fortunately they're relatively short lengths. Failing that, I'm sure we can use some proper scale chain . Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 Some fine detail work - looking great Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 (edited) 18 hours ago, beefy66 said: i used 2 blades taped together to get an even strip of tape Neat Excellent work continues Kev PS I'm sure we can use some proper scale chain I think you'll struggle to find anything to scale Edited October 11, 2018 by longshanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 There are some chains that aren't far off the link size, but the links look rather different being more the jewellery type chains which have links twisted into 3 dimensional shapes rather than 2 dimensional ovals (and with a bit in the middle joining the flats of the oval at that) like a marine chain. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacca Posted October 11, 2018 Share Posted October 11, 2018 The ones that Stuart linked to (no pun intended) seem to look the part in the photographs . They don't have the central stud but I think they'd probably look okay. Problem is that despite the fact that I spent hours if not cumulatively days of my life stood on a wet, windy fo'c'sle entering or leaving harbour, I can't actually remember how big each link is. from my best recollection they're between 9 and 12 inches long (in an FF/DD) which equates to between 39 and 30 links to the inch in 1/350 The 40 to the inch would therefore appear to be about right but there are no photos of that size 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted October 12, 2018 Share Posted October 12, 2018 (edited) Not wishing to be pedantic but .. A pet hate of mine is to see a warship that a modeller has put a great deal of effort into then hang a WC flush chain on the foscle. Admiralty Manual of Seamanship 1951 Vol II Battle class destroyer (Displacement given as 2325 tons) Cable diameter 1 7/16" = 37mm @ 1/350 = 0.1mm diameter If we imagine a link as a figure eight. Then 2 end plus centre stud = 3 x 37mm = 111mm. Say the hole that the next link goes through is twice the diameter of the metal = 74mm Link on its side we have 37 + 74 + 37 + 74 + 37mm = a total link length of 259mm (Just over 10") When working out the effective length .. we must take off two times the diameter of steel (for overlap) So 259 - 37 - 37 = 185mm coverage. 185 /350 = 0.53mm link length @ 1/350 One inch = 25.4mm therefore 25.4/0.53 = 48 links to the inch. Meaning 40 links to inch is 20 percent oversize. Not a lot but a 32' cutter would be 38.4' long, would you?? The caveat being that my maths is right 😉 It's your model you should do what you are happy with , I've had my say Edited October 12, 2018 by longshanks 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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