Aardvark Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 Hi, All! So, let's go! As they say: "Rrrrrr.......Must crush capitalism! ...Rrrrrrr!"(c): What would you be sure of, the model is not started: As I wrote, in the Ukrainian text on the box and Modelsvit's instructions, both versions indicate how "the USSR Air Force 60's" in the English translation is not! B.R. Serge P.S. Almost Sunday....OK...19 minutes how Monday on my clocks... .....to be continued.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 I'm very much looking forward to this one Serge. I've a feeling we are about to learn a lot about the early MiG-21. The first thing I noticed about this kit was how the parts layout is quite different to the Revell one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 7 hours ago, Col. said: I'm very much looking forward to this one Serge. I've a feeling we are about to learn a lot about the early MiG-21. Early MiG-21F it's very dark horse! Yes, a relatively large number of MiG-21F survived in the form of monuments. But most likely, most of these monuments have a repainted number not corresponding to the one that they had during the service. On this time photo MiG-21F in service is enigma! O.K., what are the best resources for the early MiG-21F / F-13 on the Russian Internet? Here they are: 1.Article about early MiG-21F/F-13: http://www.airforce.ru/content/mig-21/725-mig-21f/ 2.Topic about early MiG-21F/F-13: http://forums.airforce.ru/matchast/4161-mig-21f-f13/ 8 hours ago, Col. said: The first thing I noticed about this kit was how the parts layout is quite different to the Revell one. Do you want to see my comparison details Modelsvit v.s. Revell in this topic? Continue to make a model? I no original in this question....then first beginning - ejection seat! ....and first I see, it's mould surprise from Modelsvit: How did I defeat this shift from Modelsvit? I just sawed through the offset line and glued it together again without displacement: The first paragraph of the instruction: is closed! B.R. Serge P.S. WARNING! Next series this built will contain scenes of torture and violence, so please do not show it to under-age children, pregnant women and people with unbalanced psyche! ....to be continued... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 7:09 AM, Col. said: I'm very much looking forward to this one Serge. I've a feeling we are about to learn a lot about the early MiG-21. The first thing I noticed about this kit was how the parts layout is quite different to the Revell one. That is just what I was going to say. Looks like a typical A-model/Modelsvit kit, plenty of parts where just a few would do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 (edited) ...next series! Missed? I warned! On 8/27/2018 at 6:01 PM, Aardvark said: Next series this built will contain scenes of torture and violence, so please do not show it to under-age children, pregnant women and people with unbalanced psyche! So you will see how the "evil" Donetsk separatist Aardvark tortured the ukrainian photoetced ....and England with no-name China's maked handily gas burner helped him in this! it had to be an effective frame with an embedded gas burner, to inflame the atmosphere of horror, but the autofocus of the phone did not focus on the flame: Progresses: The second paragraph of the instruction: is closed! The eight paragraph of the instruction is closed! A very competent engineering solution Modelsvit allows you to make an afterburner with virtually no visible seams: But engineering solution Modelsvit for engine bad: Because it turns out to be difficult to handle the seam inside! Weapons & pylon: Pylon's have a little shift : It is small, about 0.3-0.4 millimeters but quite contrary! Wheel is very good: Cockpit & nose wheels bay, dry built without glue: Two clear litnik (weapons & ejection seat) candidate for garbage: .....so, in next series you see: - painting cockpit nose wheels bay - some improved in this model - ... and something else...maybe comparison Revell v.s. Modelsvit ?....I do not yet know... B.R. Serge .....to be continued..... Edited August 28, 2018 by Aardvark 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted August 29, 2018 Share Posted August 29, 2018 7 hours ago, Aardvark said: So you will see how the "evil" Donetsk separatist Aardvark tortured the ukrainian photoetced ....and England with no-name China's maked handily gas burner helped him in this! It's an international scandal! There's certainly plenty detail on the kit parts and the etch gives worthwhile additions so far 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted August 29, 2018 Author Share Posted August 29, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, Col. said: It's an international scandal! In my defense, I can report that they themselves asked me to do this with their photoetched: But this is really necessary, because they have a hard photoetced! If you do not do that, it will just break! This happened to me when I attached their photoeched belts to the ejection seat MB.4 on their Mirage III-V. 3 hours ago, Col. said: There's certainly plenty detail on the kit parts and the etch gives worthwhile additions so far In my opinion, not everywhere their application is justified! If I were broadcasting, you could hear a lot of Russian obscene expressions when I glued cianoacrylate glue the photoetched guide blades for the exhaust nozzle: Yes, there is an excellent and inexpensive alternative from Amigomodels http://www.amigomodels.ru/product-category/amigo-models/172-amigo-models/ (by the way they make an exhaust nozzle for all modifications of the MiG-21!) Specially for the MiG-21F / F-13, http://www.amigomodels.ru/product/r11f-300-72012/ but if I ordered it, it would have reached me when the timing of this GB had already passed. B.w. engine for MiG-21 have a differences type blades in exhaust nozzle! They could be in the form of a ring (which you can see at Modelsvit) and in the form of blades ( which you can see in Eduard photoetced instruction for Revell MiG-21F-13): The problem is that it is not at all clear what modifications of the MiG-21 were put on the engines with the ring type and on which with the blade type. This is a mystery MiG-21. B.R. Serge Edited August 29, 2018 by Aardvark 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted August 30, 2018 Share Posted August 30, 2018 nice start, but seems a bit complicated! maybe you know too much about the MiGs and Sus 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 On 8/30/2018 at 12:38 PM, exdraken said: but seems a bit complicated! Yes, so I will not disappoint you in the next series! So, the next series! In this series, you will see how to simplify and complicate your model life when assembling the jet engine R-11-300. Why did not I follow the instructions? I explain. The shape inside is such that you will never get a good joint of the engine halves. First off all, let's see inside real engine on photo and engine model: See two panel line inside? I scribing their: .....and It's was my mistake! But about this late! Next l maked imitation corrugation: But I was mistaken with the definition of where the front and where the back of the camera! Why did it happen? The annular guides of the flame ring stabilizer do not enter into one of the sides because of too small a gap! And the ring flame stabilizer, I very carefully processed both outside and inside. But for the time being I did not discover my mistake, I glued the pipe and saw it across: Now it can be easily processed at the joints inside and painted: At this stage I realized my mistake! But what was to do with the lines of the panels? After all, they were in the farthest, practically invisible part? And the visible part was as clean as a child's tear! Well I just simulated the lines of panels with self-adhesive aluminum foil: Because of my mistake, I had to do the corrugation on the other hand .... double no need work ... I also modified the adjustable part afterburner with scratching and photoetced: Glued photoetced is a horror! This work not for beginners, as for my. Final dry built R-11-300 with spruce: All parts ready for painting: dry built R-11-300 afterburner: For garbage: What do you think you'll see in the next episode? On the one hand, you need to make wires in wheel bays, on the other hand you want to paint something! I have not decided yet .... B.R. Serge P.S. On 8/30/2018 at 12:38 PM, exdraken said: maybe you know too much about the MiGs and Sus You exposed me! In my defense, I can say that I am a very informed person in many aspects, not only in MiG and Su, and not only in models .... sometimes I myself am afraid! ....to be continued.... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 (edited) nice update! and yes, you are definitely a master in improving things!! on a sidenote you might also try to improve focus on you photography! a steady hand or/ and better lightning is usually helpful! Edited September 4, 2018 by exdraken 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted September 4, 2018 Share Posted September 4, 2018 Nice work Serge. Perhaps not all of it was strictly required but all good in the end 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Serge, i like how you work, and describe how you've done it, Glynn 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 (edited) Missed? 😉😁 Thought that this building was abandoned?😲 Answer - NYET!!! 👹 But first the answers to the questions of the permanent (I hope?😍) Readers of the topic: On 9/4/2018 at 6:46 PM, exdraken said: on a sidenote you might also try to improve focus on you photography! a steady hand or/ and better lightning is usually helpful! Hard choices....loaded in topic photo from mobile phones or from camera??? Mobile have great speed and fast loading time, the camera has the best quality but you have to bother with downloading through the cable and a stationary computer ..... what is better is the download speed of the photo or the quality issue is complicated. While I prefer speed, 🤗when the construction reaches the final (I hope) then I will make high-quality photos from the camera. However, the mobile sometimes maked normally photo ... On 9/5/2018 at 12:28 AM, Col. said: Perhaps not all of it was strictly required but all good in the end Khm....some built details My have to improve....if you follow the dialogue in the topic were Gabor built MiG-21 you will guess what! On 9/5/2018 at 11:21 PM, Hewy said: i like how you work, and describe how you've done it, Thank you, Glynn! What technological methods do you want to see? What kind of detail are you interested in? Next series. Little progress, 🤗because I basically did the wires ( I hate maked wires! 👹 ) , 😢 but the work is not finished yet, so its early to load into the topic. O.K.! What we see? 1. Differences drop tanks Modelsvit v.s. Revell. It's improved drop tank! All drop tanks have photoetced fin from Eduard & Part. Modelsvit drop tank ( almost grey - airbrushed Mr. Surfacer 1200) have photoetced fin from Eduard, Revell drop tanks have photoetced fin from Part & cap from Eduard. I also added welded seams so drop tanks a look different. Some feeling about photoetced. Eduard photoetced fin for drop tanks MiG-21F/F-13 I don't recommend, because: - need glue each fin separately. - fin has a very small contact area with the surface drop tank because you glue the item into the edge! For a stronger connection, I rescribed panel line and pasted there each fin. - Instruction Eduard (colour print) has an erroneous direction fin! As correct, you can see on the instructions Part (b&w print). Photoetced fin from Part because she have right construction, it is impossible to mount incorrectly! To install oxygen cylinders and compressed air cylinders inside the wing, the Modelsvit following improvements are necessary: I promised to compare? O.K.! Comparisons! Nose & main wheels from (from top to down) Modelsvit, Equipage, Aries/Quickboost, ....and Revell😲😭: Nose cone & inlet from Modelsvit & Aries/Quickboost: Aries/Quickboost Modelsvit: Pay attention to the difference in the holes of the control rods of the bypass air damper! Modelsvit more accurate! ....to be continued... B.R. Serge Edited September 18, 2018 by Aardvark 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 The more you post comparisons between the Modelsvit and Revell kits the less likely I am to finish that Revell kit. Who was it said, "A little knowledge can be dangerous."? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Thanks for the update and the great explanatory photos!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Lots of work for small details, it will pay off in the end result I'm sure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) 20 hours ago, Col. said: Who was it said, "A little knowledge can be dangerous."? Yeppp...."Many knowledge - many sorrows!" Returned?😉 In response to wishes Glynn: On 9/5/2018 at 11:21 PM, Hewy said: describe how you've done it, Tech & tips or how it's work. Make bypass air damper inside inlet. Air damper inside almost don't see inside, but the fairings of the knots of the turn are visible well. 1.Step. Take the model and adhesive film 2.Step. Applied adhesive film on copy bypass air damper door: 3. Step. Copy bypass air damper door on adhesive film. For copy used the needle is clamped in a mechanical pencil. I used needle is clamped in a mechanical pencil as scriber for panel line. (Important! For scraping the panel lines, use a pencil with a needle at an angle of 70-90 degrees to the surface, for marking on adhesive film use a pencil with a needle at an angle of 20-30 degrees to the surface!) General view my lovely scriber: 4.Step. Removable copy bypass air damper door on adhesive film: 5.Step. For maked bypass air damper door inside inlet I used aluminum tape: 6.Step. Applied adhesive film on aluminum tape: 7.Step. Use modelling knife (my knife - OLFA) for hack bypass air damper door from aluminum tape: 8.Step. Remove maked bypass air damper door: 9.Step. Markup. I use mini-compasses from my old university engineering graphics.( Yes, I studied this discipline when the drawings were drawn with a pencil on paper! 😎) It is also well suited for creating round hatches: 10.Step. Markup with painting tape: 11.Step. Application painting tape inside inlet: 12.Step. Application bypass air damper door inside inlet, removed adhesive film & painting tape: Intermediate result: 13.Step. Maked fairings of the knots of the turn: Used for this photoetced template: 14.Step. Glue fairings of the knots of the turn inside inlet:Final result. Then for what it was done (one fairings of the knots of the turn need correct 😔) : You can use this technology to create hatches from aluminum tape.😉😎 For example, if the panel line of the hatch is destroyed 😲😭by sandpaper! B.R. Serge ........to be continued.... 😉 Edited September 19, 2018 by Aardvark 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewy Posted September 19, 2018 Share Posted September 19, 2018 Exellent description, I'm using aluminium tape to replace some panels on a a6 zero I'm building in another gb, i like how you copy the outline of the hatch to be scribed, clever 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Masters Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Looking good Serge. That you for the very detailed WiP. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RidgeRunner Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 Excellent work! I love Modelsvit kits Martin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted December 3, 2018 Author Share Posted December 3, 2018 Hi! Yes, I know GB is finished, 😶 but this is not a reason to leave the model not built! 🙄😎 Some problems, both personal and problematic, related to the current situation did not allow me to continue modeling during this period, but now there is some time. In this regard, the question to those who are interested in this topic: "It is better to continue the construction here or to open a new topic in the section "Work in progress" ?" 🤔 In the meantime, you think and write the answers, some information for MiG-21 fan-esthete to think about the stabilizer models Modelsvit, Revell & ......Zvezda. From left to right: Revell-Zvezda-Modelsvit: Old archaic method "paper&pencil" from Mesozoic 😁epoch😎, where Black pencil- Modelsvit, Green pencil-Revell & Brown pencil Zvezda: B.R. Serge P.S. Announcement ... Black Monolith: 😁😁😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graeme H Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 Aardvark it is probably better to start a new thread in the KUTA XI GB and refer to this previous one, that one runs until the 3rd February I for one would love to see you finish this, one. I am in a similar situation with not finishing model and have done this, very easy it's what most of us do, I think this GB may get locked down soon, not too sure what happens to finished GB's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Posted December 3, 2018 Share Posted December 3, 2018 If you wish to move progress to the KUTA GB or general Work In Progress area that's cool as it'll give greater exposure to your wonderful work. This GB will stay open but eventually move to the Completed GB area and well away from attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 On 12/3/2018 at 1:03 PM, Graeme H said: Aardvark it is probably better to start a new thread in the KUTA XI GB and refer to this previous one, that one runs until the 3rd February On 12/3/2018 at 7:19 PM, Col. said: If you wish to move progress to the KUTA GB Thank, gentlemen's for you's answer! I thought well, there are no guarantees that I will be in time at the time indicated in KUTA GB. As I written, situation here it can quickly become very hot and then there will be absolutely no time for models. So why declare in another GB model in which it will not be built? It's easier to open a new topic in Work In Progress. Besides, I hope, if everything is quiet here, to receive E-2A in March-April and to start building it along with its competitor Yak-140 ... and maybe after the New Year there will be another surprise from MiG family. So, when I maked some progress with painting MiG-21F, then l opened new topic in Work In Progress and I maked link on this topic. B.R. Serge 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aardvark Posted December 21, 2018 Author Share Posted December 21, 2018 On 12/5/2018 at 2:43 PM, Aardvark said: It's easier to open a new topic in Work In Progress. So, MiG-21F flight to this topic: B.R. Serge 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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