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Tamiya paint issues ?


Corsairfoxfouruncle

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Ok i have a problem ? I used Tamiya XF-3 Yellow and I thinned it with Tamiya X-20A thinner. Same thing i always use with Tamiya ? Problem occurred when i went to clean the airbrush. I have an Iwata HP-BCS just in case it helps to give me an answer. 

      I started to do my normal cleaning process which includes running some window cleaner through, followed by water, finished by breaking the A/B down and cleaning it. I have done this everytime i paint regardless of brand. Ive never had what just happened happen before? I was able to get air to go through but the windex caused the Tamiya to turn into cement, Literally im not kidding ? I had to physically scrape the paint out of my air brush just now ?  Has that ever happened to anyone with Tamiya and window cleaner before ? 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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I just use car windscreen wash for thinning and cleaning Tamiya acrylics with no problems.  Works for most other makes too, just needs experimenting to get the right dilution.

For a full clean out Methylated Spirits works well, I think this is Wood alcohol in the US.  Anyway it’s fairly neat alcohol with purple colouring to dissuade from drinking it!

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I tend to use a cheap and nasty Lacquer Thinner for cleaning my AB and it seems to work well for all paint mediums.

Warning - It stinks like hell and is not the most pleasant of toxins to consume, so wear a respirator and open the window.

I'm an big advocate for Gunze's Mr. Color Levelling thinner to thin all my Gunze and Tamiya paints, whether they be lacquers or 'so called' Acrylics. It's really wonderful stuff.

 

Cheers.. Dave

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Unusual to have this happen, but I don't use Windex except in my ultrasonic cleaner when my a/b has its half yearly bath.

 

For a cleanup after spraying, I merely flush it through with Tamiya or Gunze [Mr Hobby] thinners, cleaning the needle and jet likewise, and it's good to go.

For more persistent grot, or after using Ultimate [Stynylrez] primers, Isopropyl Alcohol [IPA] is my go-to cleaner, followed by a flush with either of the above thinners and the airbrush is as good as new.

 

Have never had a problem using these methods and I can start a painting session with total confidence.

 

Cheers........Rog

 

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Just a thought, has the Window cleaner you used changed formula recently? A lot of the cleaning products here no longer contain some of the chemicals they used to.

 

From what I’ve read, you Colonial types can get hold of neat IPA a lot easier than us here in Blighty.

Perhaps rather than using window cleaner, just use the IPA to clean with Tamiya?

 

Mart

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Thanks Mart @LotusArenco ... for answering. Sadly no its the same bottle of window cleaner ive used for 3-4 months now ? Im wondering if Tamiya changed there paint ?

   Further thoughts on the incident tell me this i sprayed clear coat on first. Then switched to paint after doing a quick clean. Maybe it was dried clear that caused the problem. Thats when i encountered the problem. I also look back and wonder if it could be a pressure thing ? I had the pressure down for the clear so it doesn't spider. Maybe i forgot to bring up the pressure afterwords ? When i went to clean the yellow Tamiya. The air was able to come through but not the the cleaner ? I wonder if the pressure was so low that it wouldn't create enough vacuum pressure to pull up the cleaner ? 

 

Dennis

Edited by Corsairfoxfouruncle
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  • 2 weeks later...

I spray Tamiya acrylics all the time. I thin with isopropanol, and clean up afterwards with cellulose thinners. I find this will usually remove all the paint residue with a gentle wipe or a squirt through using a pipette/dropper. Provided the brush is clear of celly thinners before the next use, I haven't had any problems.

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