Eduard King Tiger Initial Updates (36386, 36387 & 36388 for Takom) 1:35

[Mike]

King Tiger Initial Updates (36386, 36387 & 36388 for Takom)

1:35 Eduard

 

 

There has been a rash of new King Tiger models lately in the predominant 1:35 scale, with Takom amongst the competing camps.  These sets have been designed with their kits in mind to provide detail upgrades, scale thickness parts and the anti-magnetic mine countermeasure paste that is called Zimmerit.  As usual with Eduard's Photo-Etch (PE) and Mask sets, they arrive in a flat resealable package (the larger ones using Ziplok bags), with a white backing card protecting the contents and the instructions that are sandwiched between.

 

 

Upgrade Set (36386)

This general set is on one square fret of brass, and includes detail parts for the commander's hatch; periscope blocks; padlocks for the hatches; new vision port armour for the front hatches, a host of new parts to detail the pioneer tools and their attachment points; fire extinguisher and jack block with mounts, and new mounts for the jack and track tools on the rear bulkhead.

 

 

 

 

Zimmerit (36387)

Zimmerit paste was a mixture of wood pulp and cement to resist the placing of magnetic mines on the hull as a slight overreaction to their use on the Eastern front.  It was applied with trowels to most vertical and near vertical surfaces in a pattern, some of which were specific to the factory the vehicle was built in.  This set is on two larger PE frets, and uses a thinner gauge of brass to make it conform better to the model.  The sections are tailored specifically to the Takom kit, and this includes the kugelblende armour around the bow machine gun, which is best rolled to shape on a soft surface using a good sized marble or other hard ball to obtain the correct curvature, so lots of trial fittings will be appropriate there.  Annealing the part will assist in this, making the brass more malleable.   Holes in the brass match the fixtures moulded into the exterior, so little additional fitting will be required, but a small area near the rear mudflaps will need filling to give the zimmerit somewhere to adhere to.  This is shown on the instructions to give you time to prepare the area.

 

 

The mantlet is another curved surface, and you are shown how to attach the PE to these parts for the best fit, starting at the top centre and working your way around.  The turret will need the lugs for hanging tracks removed before it can be fitted, and inserts are required for the early Porsche cupola, which projects from the side of the turret.  A few small areas will also need filling such as the torch-cut lugs that give the joints more strength. 

 

 

 

 

Fenders (36388)

Plastic fenders will never reach scale thicknesses, so brass is an ideal solution.  The curved front fenders will need folding up into the correct curvature, and these also have strengthening ribs added to the inside, some of which might be best soldered, so that they don't suffer during handling during the rest of the build.  An alternative angular set are provided that are suitable for two of the decal options, and these too would benefit from some soldering for strength.

 

 

The side fenders are more simple, and should be bent to the same angles as the kit parts, with mounting blocks supplied to fit to the hull, which will be visible if you elect to show parts missing or damage, which often happened due to minor and literal fender-benders.  The rear fenders are predominantly flat, with angled edges and triangular stiffeners, which would also benefit from soldering if you have the skills and/or soldering iron.  Sometimes solder paste can be of use with small joints, and it's worth investing in a tube if you can track some down.  one of the best uses for PE fenders is so that you can damage them in order to show an in-the-field likeness as is often seen in photos, as well as scale fidelity of the parts. 

 

 

Review sample courtesy of