(Another) Westland Whirlwind MkI (second version)

[Heather Kay]

I primed the carcass yesterday, and consciously left it until this evening before I thought about it. I popped up to the paint shop just now with the following plan in mind: dab some masking tape around the airframe and see what happens; if the primer stays put, get the airbrush out.

 

(Incidentally, the primer brand is Simoniz. I actually looked and registered the fact this time!)

 

The tape dabbing failed to lift any primer. 

 

 

i have this thing about painting, which probably harks back to my school days, where I like to paint light colours, followed by dark ones. I think it’s a watercolourist thing, where it makes sense. With modern paint pigments, it isn’t a hard and fast rule, so I decided to spray the black underwing first. Having thought about it, it makes sense this way round as it will be a whole lot easier to mask around the pesky protrusions under the fuselage.

 

Anyway, practicing the fine art of patience, I am resisting the urge to get masking and sky painted on.

Edited August 13, 2018 by Heather Kay

[Heather Kay]

Okay, so I have a weak will. I should’ve known better. I never learn.

 

 

Masking the black wing went well enough. I even tested by lifting the tape, but all seemed fine. Sky went on, and as is my usual practice I removed the masking as quickly as I dared once the lighter paint was dry.

 

Ack. Paint and primer came away again. This time, just patches. There’s something wrong here, whether it’s my technique or the primer. So, having rubbed the offended clear patches down with a glass fibre scratch brush, I’m going to leave well alone for a day or so. Then some more masking, and a deft squirt of primer once more. Gawd knows what will happen when I try and mask the whole underside for the camo to go on. I fully expect the worst, frankly.

 

Then I shall be back with the hairy stick before you can say "airbrushing sucks"!

[AdrianMF]

Ouch! I can vouch for the resilience (if not the surface smoothness) of Halfords grey primer.  Looking forward to this scheme. Let’s hope the third time’s a winner!

 

Perhaps sticking the masking tape on something else first will make it less tacky?

 

Regards,

Adrian

 

[Heather Kay]

Just now, AdrianMF said:

Let’s hope the third time’s a winner!

I am seriously thinking I shall abandon airbrushing this model. I reckon I can brush paint another acrylic colour onto the offending wing as an undercoat, then brush the black. I may then try the trick of a coat of Clear on everything before tackling the upper parts. It worked well enough on the Hurricane and Spitfire.

 

I have only recently started airbrushing my plane models. It’s a skill I still need to refine, and I think it will pay me to work with my sacrificial airframe a bit more to practice both spraying and masking.

 

I am also beginning to think the brand of primer is at fault. I used to use the Halfords stuff, but it was such a fag getting to our nearest branch, and their prices were outrageous. When I discovered our local hardware store stocked aerosol paints at a more competitive price, I switched to them. Supporting small businesses is a thing I like to do. The rattlecans were always good, but the recent batches seem to have changed something. Funnily enough, I have grey, white and red oxide primers of the same brand, and it’s only the grey that causes problems.

 

Onwards and upwards!

 

 

[DaveyGair]

Bad luck with the Paint peeling Heather.  Just to give my two-penneth worth, I've been using 'Ultimate' Acrylic primers, mainly Grey, on my models. They Airbrush directly from the bottle, flatten down excellently and I haven't had a problem with masking tape or Blu-Tac peeling the paint off.

 

Good job so far, paint not-withstanding!

 

Davey.

[Heather Kay]

Having slept on it, I decided I didn’t want anything to do with airbrushes or rattlecan primer today. 

 

 

Airfix makes those little tublettes of thick acrylic paint they bung into gift sets. I bought their Battle of Britain 75th anniversary gift set a while ago, and got quite of selection of little pots of paint. I selected Hu91, which is a black-green they think does for RLM70 or 71, and used it as a brushed undercoat to repair the damaged black wing. Then I thought, why not use it to undercoat the whole airframe? As I was intent on brushing Xtracrylix RAF Dark Green, and experience tells several coats would be required to give any density, perhaps a dark undercoat would help things along.

 

 

Well, I think the undercoat did the trick. This is one brushed coat of Dark Green, which has pleased me no end. I’ll need a couple  or three coats of the Dark Earth, unless I can come up with a suitable undercoat colour. I’ll just go and have a rummage to see what there is. 👍

[Heather Kay]

 

Now we’re getting somewhere. The gift box paints coughed up Hu29, which is Humbrol's Dark Earth equivalent. That went on as an undercoat, followed by the Xtracrylix colour. Some touching up on the black wing, and the sky areas, and I’m almost there. I think I shall brave my airbrush and get a Humbrol Clear coat or two on to protect things. 

 

The kit kit includes the sky fuselage band on the transfers, but I’m tempted to try masking and painting it. This would ensure the colour matches the underside of the plane properly. 

[Heather Kay]

 

A couple of Humbrol Clear coats, plenty of brush marks, and still more paint flaking off after a quick mask for the fuselage band.

 

I really need to up my painting game. I’m rubbish at it. I can’t blame my tools, either, though I do need a better airbrush. I think my Badger 200 - very much Trigger's old broom in that it’s had multiple new heads and needles over the past few years - is on its last knockings. I think it’s time to research replacements.

[Lawzer]

great work - speedy gonzales!!!

 

[Heather Kay]

I’m supposed to be working on client work, but it’s all a bit here and there at present. I have a model ready to be shipped, being collected later this week. I have nine coaches under way, and I’m in the process of painting their seating. I’m also feeling a bit distracted by life in general, so...

 

 

Up on her pins, and brass wire replacements for the tail antenna post and the main antenna mast. I must remember to make some tiny holes for the aerial wires.

 

I will get some paint around the undercarriage, and reinstate the doors. Earlier I had used them to mask the gear bays, but I don’t know why I bothered. I also need to paint the props. Transfers next, then. I had a better look at the kit sheet earlier. They’re a bit thick, but I think - hope - they’ll be okay. There’s not much surface detail for them to worry about!

[Heather Kay]

 

I think that's about it for this model. I’m tempted not to take any closer shots! I am not particularly happy with the outcome, to be honest.

 

I'll do proper portraits later and get them up in the gallery.

Edited August 16, 2018 by Heather Kay

[TonyW]

Looks good from this end!

 

Tony.

[Rabbit Leader]

I reckon she’s come up trumps as well Heather, expect at that distance and on that huge cutting mat it looks more like a 1/144 model. It deserves to be photographed properly and I’m sure it will sit just as nicely as your other Galleried builds. 

 

Cheers.. Dave 

[Ventora3300]

It looks excellent to me - realistic and purposeful - why didn't they call it the Westland Wasp?

[Heather Kay]

Cheers chaps!

 

 

For those interested, here's my pop-up photo studio. Two ancient BHS anglepoise-style desk lamps, each fitted with a 16W (100W equivalent) cool white LED bulb, tracing paper diffusers held to the shades by magnets, one A1 piece of foam board as a backdrop, and my multi-purpose ground board. Once side of the latter has the flock grass, the other a printed concrete dispersal. To take the photos, I just use my iPad back camera. It doesn't give much control, especially over depth of field, but it's okay for these basic shoots. When I feel like taking my time, I haul out the DSLR and studio lights, and set things up with a bit more care. I do find, though, working with a tripod cramps my style a bit with these sorts of models: the iPad/iPhone/<insert preferred mobile device here> has sufficient resolution for the interweb, and allows some freedom with framing.

 

Piccies over here:

 

 

 

Edited August 16, 2018 by Heather Kay

[Ray S]

Despite the problems you had with the paintwork, I reckon you have still produced a great looking model there. I built this one a few times (once withing the last few years) and still found it holds up well. I also built the original bagged one when I were a nipper too!

 

I loved the rugged but sleek look of this aircraft, and it will sit well with your other Battle of Britain ear aircraft.

 

All the best,

 

Ray

 

PS - Just a query, but do you ever have paint issues in your real job life? You do an awful lot of painting then and it must be more critical getting things right for clients.

[Heather Kay]

1 minute ago, Ray S said:

PS - Just a query, but do you ever have paint issues in your real job life?

Oh yes. I had some the other day. A single patch of paint lifted on a coach side, and another had so much fluff and dust on it it was unreal! 

 

For properly complicated jobs I sub contract to people who know what they’re doing.  

[nimrod54]

Despite your struggle with primer/paint it is still a good result Heather, the gallery shots look brilliant.

 

Like Adrian I use Halfords primers, generally a couple of light coats of their Grey Plastic Primer if I have not added metal extras, wet sanding it leaves a smoother finish if required.

[TonyW]

The gallery pictures look the part. A good looking model of a very tough looking plane.

[Heather Kay]

11 minutes ago, nimrod54 said:

Like Adrian I use Halfords primers

I think I’ll have to investigate further. My current choice seems flawed, where it used to be okay. Perhaps it’s a dud batch.

 

Anyway, thanks for the nice words folks! Next back on the bench ought to be the FrankenDornier.

[Lawzer]

Apart from 1 instance (down to me spraying it outside when it was winter) I can't fault halfords primer.