arthurkrull Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 All, I hope you can give me a reality check. If I want to build a 1/48th model of Brumowski's 153-45, I can use Eduard's Albatros D.III and replace the Mercedes engine with an Austro-Daimler, correct? I think Pheon will release decals soon and the engine could be robbed from an Eduard 153, 253 or a Copper State resin engine. Am I on the right track? Thanks much, Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I think you are good to go, though I must of missed something ... you say you have a donor Oeffag kit for the engine - why not use the whole kit? As far the Austrian Daimler engine goes, each of the three main Oeffag frames had a bit more power than it's predecessor, (185, 200, and 225 hp respectively). Right or wrong, Eduard has the same plastic for both the 153 and 253. Pheon had released Oeffag decals quite a few years ago (around 2010), and two red machines of Brumowski are found in Vol. III of the series. regards, Jack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Technically you should also replace German LMGs with Austro-Hungarian Schwarzlose machine guns. But since the armament is buried deep in the nose there is not much to worry about unless you are planing to build 153.45 as she looked after 1st February 1918 fight. Cheers Jure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Masters Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 This is, perhaps, my favourite of all the Alb. D.III. Not necessarily the ace, but the A-H. I am very much looking forward to this one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Jack, I think 225 hp Austro-Daimler was ´high altitude´ over-compressed version of 200 hp engine, differing little from its predecessor on the outside. Hence the same Eduard's plastic. Cheers Jure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) Hello Jure, thank you for pointing out that important detail for the engine types. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've also taken a closer comparison between the German and Austrian built DIII, and I now find four details that can prevent one from constructing the Oeffag version from a regular Albatros; - fuselage opening where engine sits are differently shaped - D.III exhaust pipes lead into one main pipe, while the Oeffag remain individual - Oeffag radiator on top wing is centered and is detailed differently - some differences on louvers and access covers found on the fuselage * Will also mention the prop. Though can't tell from the instructions, when physically comparing the actual models ( I have the 153 and a second release of the D.III, can see a difference in both the shape of the blades and the tips. A couple quick links to the pdf instructions of Eduard kits: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/7/9/2/139792-51-instructions.pdf https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/0/0/1/101001-32-instructions.pdf regards, Jack Edited August 2, 2018 by JackG 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) Hello Jack Did not think about those differences. I also missed that on OEFFAGs, with Schwarzlose machine guns inside the fuselage, one needs to blank out their opening on the top of the nose. Also, on Austro-Hungarian Albatri, aft part of machine guns protruded into the cockpit. Art, with Brumowski kit available OOB, is a conversion really worth the effort? Cheers Jure Edited August 2, 2018 by Jure Miljevic correcting spelling error 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) Jure, I don't think Arthur is going to like us anymore. Excellent observation on the machine guns. The armament also sits a bit lower on the Oeffag, their placement being just below the exhaust while on the D.III they are situated so their line is above the exhaust. The forward end can easily be replicated with some hollow brass tubing, but in the cockpit some scratch building would be required. I've also noticed a another slight difference when comparing my two Eduard models, the Oeffag has about 1mm larger diameter wheel size. regards, Jack Jack Edited August 2, 2018 by JackG 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurkrull Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) Thanks All! I stand (or rather sit) corrected. I had forgotten that the 153 kit included the early nose and spinner. (note to self, look at the kit again before asking and wasting people's time!). Anyway, thanks again and I'm sorry. Art Edited August 2, 2018 by arthurkrull 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Art, not a problem. Least now, those of us that would have future plans to build the Oeffag from a standard D.III realize it is not that simple. I also looked at the Pheon Decals site, and they must be doing a reprint on the Oeffag subject. I had purchased all three sets about five years ago. regards, Jack 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Hello I was aware only of major differences (engine, armament, strengthen wing structure) so I for one learnt plenty. Very realistic looking model, Jack, especially aluminum nose, although painting those tiny blotches must have taken quite some time. Cheers Jure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Thank you Jure. The aluminum sections are actually clear film decals I created in an attempt to replicate the turned or machined metal look. Another close up: regards, Jack 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jure Miljevic Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 One way or another, it looks just fine. Cheers Jure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 8 hours ago, JackG said: The aluminum sections are actually clear film decals I created in an attempt to replicate the turned or machined metal look. JackG, That engine turning is the most realistic I have seen so far! Would you be willing to share how you did it? Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arthurkrull Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 Jack, Looks great! I wouldn't have thought that decals could work to simulate the machined metal effect. Thanks for sharing. Art 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Jure, Mike, and Art, thanks lads. Basically I created a pattern in a paint program, but printed out the negative (the space around the 'swirls") , so the actual machined bits you see is the aluminum paint seen through clear decal film. The above image is the beginnings of the artwork from Corel Photo-Paint software, utilizing a paintbrush effect named angelhair. It allows only short strokes, so it involves a lot of mouse clicking. To keep the pattern somewhat random looking, I rotated the image both 90 and 45 degrees when adding more strokes. Lastly here is how I arrived at the printing stage for the home made decals: 1. Master patterns are made of the aluminum areas using Tamiya yellow tape, followed by a scan and importing to the paint program. 2. Instead of creating from scratch a large enough background of the machined aluminum, I made several copies of the one section I had posted earlier. Stitching them together resulted in this one large file. 3. A mask is created (orange) of the scanned shapes. 4. The white portion is copied and pasted over the pattern. A final crop (not shown) and is ready to print. regards, Jack 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Thanks for all the valuable info here! @JackG great decal solution! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrzeM Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 On 8/3/2018 at 8:00 PM, JackG said: Basically I created a pattern in a paint program, but printed out the negative (the space around the 'swirls") , so the actual machined bits you see is the aluminum paint seen through clear decal film. Hey! This is excellent idea and great execution! Your model looks extremely realistic. That should work also for those Fokkers E.III!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackG Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 GrzeM, thank you kindly. The only problem I foresee on trying this on the Fokker E.III is the cowl, as you have the curve around the engine as well as the forward curve to deal with. I have my doubts that any amount of decal softener would solve this. regards, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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