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A deuce of Chaparrals


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Hello everybody! This is will be my first build in the "Vehicles" forum, so let me introduce myself. I recently returned to modeling after a few decades lapse, but during that time I never stopped adding to my stash. Most of my collection consists of 1/72 aircraft (where I have been posting up until now), but I also have a good number of automobile kits. Mainly 1960s GT and prototype racers (Ferrari, Porsche, Lola, Ford GT, etc.), as well as some Grand Prix and IndyCar kits (something to do with having been a teenager in the 1960s). But my all-time favorite racers from that era are the Chaparrals.

 

Wanting to start off with a relatively simple project, I went through my stash and selected these two kits:

 

43704569262_81f5d6afbe_b.jpg 

 

Should be a quick and easy build, right? But, not so fast! Let's begin with Arii's 2C. I have read that the body originated as a slot car, to which Arii added a belly pan, wheels & tires, and interior from the Modeler's Chaparral 2D coupe. Looking over the parts, the major weaknesses (in my opinion) are the unrealistic and unauthentic injector velocity tubes, and incorrect tires/wheels. First, the velocity tubes.

 

For the specific car modeled (#66 from the 1965 Nassau race), the engine injection looks like this:

 

41944384370_a8e9b9675c_z.jpg 43752974671_6e3391ee2d_z.jpg

 

This is what's in the kit:

 

41944381980_0217be76a8_z.jpg 

 

Lame!

 

So, it looks like I'll have to scratch up something better. To start with, I found some nice parts I can modify in this Fein-Design kit (another from my stash):

 

42848609675_9fec923a80_c.jpg 

 

But, not wanting to sacrifice those parts, I instead cast duplicates in resin:

 

29882020168_26127c4c47_c.jpg 

 

My success rate for getting a good copy definitely isn't 100%, but after a number of attempts I believe I have enough to populate my engine:

 

43704567622_458a9df56d_c.jpg 

 

I'm not done by any means... I still have to add tubing to the top & bottom of each part, and then install them onto my engine manifold (also "borrowed" from the Fein-Design kit).

 

I'm taking a similar approach with the wheels issue -- duplicate in resin more authentic parts from other Chaparral kits in my stash.

 

Here's what Arii provides. Definitely unlike anything I've ever seen on a Chaparral:

 

42848608855_7cf6836671_z.jpg 

 

My first attempt has been less than satisfactory, as you can see in the pic below. On the left are the 'master' wheels that I used to create a latex mold for my resin duplicates (seen on the right):

 

29882020358_a845362534_c.jpg 

 

Notice the resin intrusions between the spokes of my duplicate wheels. These are the result of bubbles in my latex mold:

 

29882021038_930ff568e0_z.jpg 

 

The solution is to make another mold, being careful that no bubbles are trapped between the spokes. Unfortunately, I've used all my latex and must wait for the postman to deliver a fresh supply.

 

One more thing... The tires in the Arii kit look very nice, if you like Goodyears!

 

42848609595_893cde804c_z.jpg 

 

But, I believe the Chaparrals were running Firestones. Can anyone point me to where I can find an appropriate set of tires? If I can't find any, my fallback is to try sanding off the 'Goodyear' lettering and putting a Firestone decal in its place.

 

I'm sure many other questions will pop up, hopefully someone here will be able to help me sort them out.

 

Follow the racing line!

 

-Bill

Edited by billn53
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16 hours ago, cherry268 said:

Always had an interest in the Chaparrals

The one I really want is the 2F

Just something about that model

 

Here's one for you:

 

43726709332_d110180399_c.jpg 

7 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

Was there a Chaparrel 2G?

Back in the day we always used to refer to the TV programme as 'High Chaparrel 2G'

(That was when colour TV was a new thing in the UK!)

 

2G? Yes!

 

43058479464_c572c80043_c.jpg 

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While waiting for my latex mold material to arrive, I took a closer look at the 2D kit. I haven't actually started any work, so this post is more of an in-box review.

 

43058246064_0e3ffeaa8d_c.jpg

 

My kit dates from 2004, but I remember building this many, many years earlier. Also note that decals in this release are by Cartograph. As you will see later, they look to be excellent.

 

43774696881_4c31035c8b_z.jpg 

 

First, the body. It's well molded with almost zero flash. I haven't compared it to any drawings, so can't say how accurate it is. But to my eyes it does look like a 2D!

 

43058245904_c6b0c71a15_b.jpg 

 

43058245544_949cdcfa6e_b.jpg 

 

Obviously, there's room for detailing the body. For example, the rear grillwork is molded in, and would be greatly improved by some PE grills:

 

43058245494_72d64dcfd5_z.jpg 

 

The interior tub is pretty basic... but as this is a coupe not much will be visible, so I don't intend to do much additional detailing here.

 

42870558265_ff2ede7007_c.jpg 

 

Here's the belly pan. This is definitely a curbside model.

 

43058245474_55266782a4_c.jpg 

 

Like the Arii 2C kit, the engine and its velocity tubes are poorly represented:

 

28838195347_9547dd5509_z.jpg 

 

I expect that I'll replace this with duplicated parts from the Fein-Design kit, in the same way I'm planning for my 2C:

 

29903966598_0299e617c5_z.jpg 

 

The tires in this kit look very nice, and decals are provided for the Firestone markings. On the other hand, the wheels are a big disappointment:

 

42870558245_2bf02f2c76_z.jpg  43058245994_a718925457_z.jpg 

 

Somewhere along the way I must have picked up replacement tires & wheels, because I found these tucked away in my box!

 

43058245614_e77e5b6fc6_c.jpg

 

Much nicer! And, if I use these I'll have some nice vinyl tires for my 2C build 🙂

 

Clear parts come in a protective plastic bag, and look pretty good. Some polishing and Klear should make them look great. Unfortunately, the windshield wiper is molded in and I would prefer to see it go away. But that will mean more work to get the windshield clear again. Also, I'll need to find a replacement wiper somewhere. I assume they're available as PE detail parts?

 

29903966938_a516c75111_c.jpg 

 

Also in the box is a pre-painted driver figure. But no attempt was made to fill in the seam lines, so I'll have to fill those in and re-paint:

 

41966047770_857f0f8807_c.jpg 

 

The decals, as I mentioned earlier, look great! I hope they go on without any problem (given that they're nearly 15 years old):

 

43058245724_cf853b3262_c.jpg 

 

Finally, I thought I'd share the kit instructions. Only 5 steps to a finished model! And, the last two steps don't really involve much work:

 

43774697341_ba9b9743ff_b.jpg 

 

41966048530_eb234b0aa9_h.jpg 

 

43058244914_0ff84a1004_b.jpg 

 

That's all for now. My latex molding material should arrive tomorrow. Wish me luck!

 

 

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"Here's one for you:"

 

That is a lovely picture, thanks for showing it

 

"Was there a Chaparral 2G?"

 

I think there was a 2H, 2J and a 2K, 

Still none as lovely as the 2F

He was a  clever man

 



 

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I looked on tinternet and found a 2F made by Fisher models

Not sure if it is available in the UK and looks quite pricey

But if I had the time I'd get it but I AM NOT ADDING TO MY STASH

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Time for a Sunday afternoon update. I've made good progress on my pair of Chaparrals (although it may not look like it). First off, my latex mold material arrived so I was able to sort out my wheel and engine situation. Here's the result of my efforts:

 

At the top are the original resin wheels that I used for my mold. My duplicates are on the bottom. My versions are solid behind the mesh spokes, so when it comes to painting I will use a black wash to give depth. On the right is the top portion of the Chevy 327 engine (borrowed from the Fein Design kit) that will give the illusion of detail below the cars' velocity stacks.

 

42027123430_21a50240ce_c.jpg 

 

Wheels after painting with Vallejo Metal Color aluminum (black wash yet to be applied):

 

43817867592_e2dc2c042d_c.jpg

 

And dry-fitting parts for the two engines. 2C on the left, 2D on the right. I'm using brass tubing to raise the 2C's carbs to the appropriate height for the specific car being modeled.

 

28929909197_016d065fb3_c.jpg 

 

This isn't exactly accurate (see detailed pic of actual engine below), but my simplification probably won't be noticeable.

 

29996859658_f5fff9de9a_z.jpg 

 

For the velocity stacks themselves, I plan to cut them from thin wall brass tubing after estimating the appropriate lengths for each car from photos I've collected online.

 

Finally, I've cleaned up minor flash, mold lines, sink marks, etc. from two bodies & other major pieces and applied my first colors. For the interiors and chassis pans, I airbrushed Tamiya gloss brown. I've given the bodies an initial coat of Tamiya "rattle can" white primer.

 

43148773984_d618fff70b_b.jpg 

 

28929909297_3e984b0653_b.jpg 

 

43148774074_471e70477e_b.jpg 

 

My next chore is to open up the various air scoops and screened areas on the 2C and 2D bodies. Below are some pics of the actual cars to give you an idea of what I'm getting into:

 

2C:

42057929130_c669961278_b.jpg   42962474395_c5c1bc0a28_z.jpg

2D:

28930074117_def8b2137b_z.jpg   42962426655_8e89541a65_z.jpg 

 

Wish me luck, I'm going to need it!

 

And now for something completely different... (Cherry268, this is for you)

 

My Fisher Chaparral 2F has arrived, and it's a beauty of a kit. Clean resin moldings, PE details included, two sets of vacuform clear parts (in case I make a mistake, which I usually do with vacuform parts), good looking decals, and excellent instructions. Take a look:

 

43866294771_cdf7778e12_z.jpg 

 

43817868142_2e91f58581_b.jpg 

 

43866295071_dc0a7c491e_b.jpg 

 

43866295011_17cbbd752a_b.jpg 

 

The kit is pricey, but there's good value here. In any case, if you want a 2F, it's the only game in town.

 

Till next time!

Edited by billn53
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Gotta love those Chaparrals: privileged to have met Jim Hall and can't wait to read his biog when it comes out next year. He's probably the single most influential person in the history of motorsport and I eagerly await seeing what you get up to with these!

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It's always a bit scary to take a knife to a beautiful body, knowing if you screw up you may end up trashing the whole project.

 

I'm happy to report that I've managed to open up the various screened areas and a few other items on my Chaparrals, and they've survived the surgery!

 

Here's a step-by-step using my 2C as the example:

 

First, I carefully drilled holes inside the perimeter of the area to be cut away:

 

42128211840_1925f082b1_b.jpg

 

and used a sharp knife to cut through the holes:

 

42128211820_3f113a377b_b.jpg 

 

That was the easy part. Then, using files and sanding sticks, I carefully trimmed and cleaned the edges:

 

30068008918_918bf99589_b.jpg 

 

Same for the rear transom:

 

43936791121_6febabbba7_z.jpg   28999311907_4143d3950e_z.jpg 

 

While I was at it, I opened up a couple of air scoops:

 

43936790051_51f17e7374_z.jpg 

 

A lot less work was needed for the 2D -- a couple of long openings in the deck on either side of the engine, and the rear transom. There is also a small oval opening that is screened in near the right-front tire:

 

28999312097_8c3357453b_z.jpg   43888751252_6b572d46e8_z.jpg

 

I haven't yet decided on what to use for the screens. More than one kind of material seems to have been used, sometimes different types of screen on the same vehicle. And, I will need to watch for a particular problem with my 2D, namely, the kit's belly pan runs all the way to the rear and might be visible through the screen (depending on what I end up using).

 

43888780152_93141b2322_c.jpg

 

If this turns out to be the case, I may need to add details like the spare tire, etc., as in the pic below (in this particular 2D the screens seem to be absent):

 

42962426655_8e89541a65_b.jpg

 

Till next time!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by billn53
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I believe I have found an appropriate screen material -- it is a brass photoetch product sold by Eduard. It comes in various mesh sizes and arrangements (hexagonal, rectilinear). The one I've selected is the smallest hexagonal mesh that Eduard sells:

 

43063417445_54ecaa9cd7_z.jpg   43063417485_537da607e0_c.jpg

 

The only way I can imagine attaching the screen material to the Chaparral bodies is from the backside. This means there will be a step between the mesh and the outside surface of the car body, due to the thickness of the plastic. If I didn't do anything, the step would be a scale 2-inches or so, which is totally unacceptable. So, I set about thinning down the plastic around the screened-in areas using a rotary grinding tool. Here's an in-progress shot on the Chaparral 2C. The two openings on the right have already been thinned down, the ones on the left are the original thickness:

 

43063417315_19aa888269_b.jpg

 

Quite a difference!

 

And, here's a pic with some of the PE mesh tacked into place:

 

43920388182_d3ddb9f04c_b.jpg

 

A couple of points need to be made. Comparing to photos of the actual car, the mesh is still not small enough and the step is still too large.

 

42057929130_c669961278_b.jpg 

 

I can't think of any reasonable way around these issues, so I will just have to live with them. Second, it's easy to see through the mesh, so I'll either need to add interior detail (see photo above), or blank off the backside to preclude see-through. Most likely I'll follow the second path, except perhaps for the rear transom on the 2D, where the rear wheel wells and spare tire area clearly visible.

 

 

That's it for now. Time to get back to grinding!

Edited by billn53
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Another quick update. I seems like I was working on these builds all weekend, but progress is in little baby steps!

 

A little more surgery, on the 2D's rear deck. Monogram's design has it attaching to the body with a couple of large pins, which would be easily visible. I removed the pins and filled in the associated holes in the deck. Also, Monogram had two large rectangular cutouts over the rear tires, probably a legacy from this originally being a slot car body. I filled those in as well.

 

43281910844_c5211649bd_c.jpg 

 

After checking photos online, I concluded that the interior of the body, including the transition to the transom, was painted black. No fancy airbrushing here, just old-fashioned hairy stick:

 

30132081758_917568a4a0_c.jpg 

 

My attention right now is on the interior. For the 2D, I limited my effort to painting (I plan on using the driver figure, and being a coupe, the interior will not be easily visible):

 

43281911184_16a9d2e7ee_c.jpg 

 

The 2C is another story. Arii's interior, to say the least, is rudimentary. I decided to make the driver's ride more comfortable with a seat cushion and seatbelts fashioned from Milliput:

 

30132081778_238f9a7ba2_c.jpg 

 

And, that's all I have for now. Like I said, little baby steps...

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Somebody please take my knife away before I cut again!

 

I've been doing more surgery on my 2C... I noticed that the forward console and instrument panel in the Arii kit are wrong. The IP is set too far back and runs straight across from one side to the other, making the cockpit opening rectangular. In reality, the forward console is three-sided, with the IP set about halfway between the door jamb and the apex of the windscreen. So, out with my trusty hobby knife.

 

Here are before & after pics:

 

30068008918_918bf99589_c.jpg  43974618482_59ae64f865_c.jpg

 

An unintended consequence of this is that I now needed to close off the forward end of the canopy tub, otherwise the tires, etc would be easily visible through the cockpit. I built a simple, three sided wall on the belly pan that approximates the shape of the actual car's cockpit enclosure:

 

30154702448_459d49541d_c.jpg

 

And here is how everything looks now when pieced together:

 

43991075932_3f4bf7b348_c.jpg

 

Compare the IP shape with what can be seen in this pic:

 

43974619552_3a99b24650_z.jpg

 

Not perfect, but much better than before.

 

Back to my 2D coupe, I had to fill in another opening in the body, this one for the flipper actuator mechanism used in the slot car version of the kit. I also had to fill in the corresponding attachment point on the bottom of the flipper:

 

30154702368_c31868bd31_c.jpg 

 

I think I'm almost ready to begin painting!

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I've been attending to a few things about the Arii kit that have been bugging me to the point that I couldn't ignore them any longer. Namely, air scoops:

 

The kit provides an air scoop that goes behind the left door. This was in actuality a rather large scoop, but the opening of the kit item is much too small. Out came my knife (again!) and, with some tailored cuts and a bit of plastic strip, I enlarged the opening to roughly twice its original size:

 

44033845192_d5b8357338_c.jpg 

 

There should be another scoop forward of the right door, but this is missing entirely from the Arii kit. I scratched on up and attached it in place:

 

44033845212_0f5f212c00_c.jpg

 

I also added a blanking plate beneath the screened openings aft of the radiator outlet:

 

44033845252_7b935a3772_c.jpg 

 

Here are a couple of pics to compare my rendition of this Chaparral 2C to the real McCoy:

 

29144842857_b23934f246_c.jpg   42057929130_c669961278_c.jpg 

 

Getting closer to painting time!

 

44033845122_845926c005_b.jpg 

 

But I've run into another snag... I want to get the clear headlight covers installed and faired in before painting. Unhappily, the covers for the 2C are missing. They are listed on the instruction sheet, but there are no such items on the clear sprue. I have two of the Arii kits and the covers are missing from both! But I have some ideas on how to skin this unwelcome kitty. Stay tuned!

Edited by billn53
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The subject of today's update are the clear parts.

 

As I mentioned at the end of yesterday's post, the Arii kit is missing the clear covers for the Chaparral 2C's headlights. Actually, that is not quite true -- the Arii kit DOES include headlight covers, but they are for an ENTIRELY DIFFERENT CAR!

 

My going-in plan for fabricating the needed covers is this: create a mold that I can use to vacuform the covers from thin clear sheet. First, create the mold....

 

I lined the headlight openings with kitchen foil, and filled the opening with Milliput. This I roughly shaped with my fingers, and let it set overnight.

 

44052903062_57673d6784_c.jpg

 

Once it had hardened, I used sanding sticks to refine the shape. The foil allowed me to easily remove the molds from the body. Here they are, set in place. The black color is Mr Surfacer -- I will fine-sand and polish the molds before attempting to vacuform the clear parts.

 

44052902922_68fd4ecf96_c.jpg

 

Next up: the windshields.

 

At the beginning of this build, I observed that the Monogram 2D kit's windshield includes a molded-in wiper, and I desired to replace this with a PE item. The challenge was to cut away the molded wiper without ruining the windshield. Here's how I did it:

 

First, I outlined the molded wiper with vinyl tape, to protect the windshield. Then, using the tip of a fresh No. 2 blade, I carefully cut away the wiper, finishing with carefully scraping until the wiper was entirely removed. Next, I wet sanded the entire windshield using a 400-grit sanding stick.

 

44052903642_36c2e4bc85_z.jpg  42292372210_3a0c2ed0ce_z.jpg 

 

I continued wet sanding, using progressively finer grades. Finally, I polished the windshield (and also the side windows, while I was at it) with Tamiya Fine and Finishing polishing compound.

 

42292372270_35cc54d82b_z.jpg  44101698451_b5220023f1_z.jpg

 

Voila! The ugly molded in wiper is gone, and the windshield looks even better than before. I'll next do a careful cleaning to remove any dust & polishing residue, and dip the entire thing in clear acrylic (Future).

 

I did the same on Arii's windshield for the Chaparral 2C, which had a number of minor scratches and blemishes out-of-the-box:

 

44052903382_f47152ab9a_z.jpg 

 

That's it for now... The weekend is here at last, and I expect to get some more good modeling time in over the next couple of days.

 

 

Edited by billn53
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