Masking tape pulling paint off. Solutions?

[BikingLampy]

I'm starting to get a wee bit peeved with this. 🤬

 

I've got a couple of areas on a plane I'm building where the primer is pulling off the plastic when removing masking (it's the wing leading edge so there a colour spilt top to bottom and a need to mask). It's now just happened for the 3rd time.

 

I'm using Stylnrez primer and Vallejo Model Air paints. I'm leaving the paints at least 24hrs to dry before masking. (so its 3 days work to prime, 1 coat, then mask & second coat), during which I'm getting nothing else done, all over an area about 5mm x 5mm. Masking tape is Tamiya.

 

Now there's obviously an implication that the plastic surface is contaminated with something, but I don't want to go near the thing with any kind of solvent/chemical at this stage and risk making the problem worse. Ideas for cleaning?

 

Secondly, I'm assuming the contamination is probably from my hands - how do you go about avoiding it (especially given how warm it is at the mo)? I'm cack handed enough at the best of times, let alone trying to handle small parts whilst wearing gloves!

 

Thanks,

 

BL

 

[BIG X]

Hi Lampy,

 

I had this IDENTICAL problem when I first started airbrushing.  I ended up trying 'various' acrylic or 'water based' primers - including Stynilrez and Vallejo's own.  In my own opinion the problem isn't the plastic - it's the water based primers.  They simply do not 'grab' and hold on styrene - when it comes to removing masking tape or blu-tac 'worms'.  

 

Doubtless someone will be along shortly saying the exact opposite - but that is the nature of forums.  I can only tell you I suffered with the exact same problem that you are having.

 

I eventually switched back to Halfords rattle can primer.  I wanted to get away from it as I wanted to paint indoors with an odourless primer - but if it doesn't work then it doesn't work.  I now do spray the halfords indoors - with the spray booth on max extraction and the window wide open for 10 minutes.  SWMBO has been very understanding.

 

Now - just to give you 'reassurance' - though that is the wrong word - this is what is happening...

 

When you pull the mask off a 'bubble' appears under the paint right....

...when it's bad enough the 'bubble' rips right...

...when you pull the paint it stretches like a 'polythene bag' right...

 

OK if that all fits - I'm afraid it's the primer - I couldn't find an airbrush one that worked and trust me I listened to folk on here and tried a fair few - money and time down the drain in the end.

 

I hope you get the problem sorted,

Steve

[Rabbit Leader]

BL, 

First thing I can say is that we’ve all been through this issue before and to be honest are all likely to visit it again at some point. I’ve never heard of that particular brand of primer, however IMO Vallejo paints are quite known for being a little on the brittle side. I have since moved on from them, however there are many other modellers on here who have had more success. 

 

Without knowing your skills and abilities I’ll mention a few things that may help should you not be aware of them. 

 

Its always a good idea to wash all plastic model parts in soapy water prior to any painting stage. This will remove any residue of release agent that may still be present. I do this before I assemble and again before I paint to remove any of my grubby grease marks. 

 

I have found that a good ‘Lacquer’ based primer suits me best for laying on a tough and solid base coat. Something like Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200 gives a lovely smooth finish to then start your top coats. Once again, apply soapy water and then use your top colours. 

 

Prior to my latest two builds I was an exclusive Lacquer paint modeller, however I have since used both Tamiya and Gunze Mr. Hobby acrylic paints lately and have had no issues with Tamiya tape lifting off any underlying paint. To be honest, this did surprise me, however I think it’s due to the good base primer coat and a good choice of top layer paints (avoiding certain brands). 

 

Anyway - that’s my story so hopefully it may help in some small way. 

 

Cheers.. Dave 

 

[dnl42]

I also use thinned Mr Surfacer as a primer. It's wonderful stuff! In addition, washing the all bits before starting is a good preventive measure. Finally, when ready to paint,  I give the model a thorough wipe down with isopropyl alcohol.

 

Before applying the masking tape, you can stick it to your clean palm to reduce the adhesion a little. 

[Grey Beema]

As an add on - de-tack your masking tape slightly (stick it to the bench and peel it off a couplle of times, or for small areas use a post it note.

 

Seal the paint and allow it to harden before masking..  But do all the stuff mentioned above first...

[bzn20]

I run the sticky side of the tape across a clean edge of a table etc.  It works with any tape ( normal masking tape , Sellotape ) and for masking on paper too. Don't do it hard though the adhesive can "bobble". Invisible tape is good , cut Frisk Film does it without reducing the adhesive . Post it paper is brilliant too.

Don't use Gorilla tape or you will have a problem explaining it to SWMBO !

Edited July 19, 2018 by bzn20

[johnd]

There's a useful tip on another BM thread. Put a piece of thin paper over the area where the transfer is and tape over that. No adhesive then comes into contact with your sticker.

 

John.

 

[BikingLampy]

Thanks all.

 

I did indeed start with Halfords rattle can primer, and yes, it's tough as old boots, but the finish quality was pretty dreadful - "powdery" for want of a better word - and trying to buff that off without losing raised detail or going through the paint was on a hiding to nothing. I did try decanting it into the airbrush, but seemed to be a lot more faff for average results.

 

I tried Vallejo Primer next - unimpressed - PITA to get it to go on smoothly, and tended to ball up and peel off if sanded. Stynlrez is a Badger product that a lot of guys on the BM aircraft forums seem to use. Goes on lovely from the airbrush and is a nice finish, bar this 2 or 3 places (now down to 1) where it just doesn't stick.

 

...and yes, it's exactly as per BigX's description.

 

Noted about Mr Surfacer as an option, also about de-tacking the tape.

 

Cheers,

 

BL

 

 

[LotusArenco]

Like a few others here, I also had the exact same problems with Stynylrez. Solved (for me anyway, YMMV) by giving the plastic a once over with a fine sanding sponge and a worn bit of scotchbrite to key the surface a little.

To be honest this was a bit of a palaver, and although I still use Stynylrez now and then, for the majority of my priming I’ve gone back to using Tamiya surface primer. At least with the Tamiya I know I’ll get consistently good results with minimal faffing around.

 

Mart  

[Grey Beema]

3 hours ago, johnd said:

There's a useful tip on another BM thread. Put a piece of thin paper over the area where the transfer is and tape over that. No adhesive then comes into contact with your sticker.

 

John.

 

Yup my post I'm afraid.  As a general I try to have as little tape against the paint as possible.  So stick the cling film to the tape use leaving a sticky edge (de tacked) and use the cling film to cover the bulk of the area...

 

As a primer I tend to use Halfords Aluminium which has another benefit for lazy me.  I use Xtracrylics for the colouflage colours which is softer than the aluminium.  So to show abraded wear or scrapes all you have to do is scrape in the right place with a cocktail stick...  Varnish over the top and Robert is your mothers brother.

 

As said before this isn't 100% fool proof but there again what techniques are?

[sapperastro]

Any paint that sticks to plastic and is matt is fine for priming. It doesn't have to be a 'primer'. With acrylic, I will use either a Tamiya or Humbrol rattlecan, or just enamel paint.

[gamevender]

Ditto all of the above, except that for something that's only 5X5mm, I might bite the bullet and just brush paint it to avoid masking at all 

[Steve Noble]

If the tape is pulling off your paint/primer etc, then it's either your preparation or your primer that's at fault. I've never had much success with modelling related primers that are airbrushed. I much prefer aerosol primer. Either Halfords, Tamiya or any Gunze/Mr Surfacer products. All three have worked well for me on all kit plastics and never pull off with tape (Tamiya) 

As stated already, I clean the parts and sand them with a sanding sponge/stick to prepare the surface for paint. For cleaning I use body shop panel wipe. Just wipe on and off and it evaporates to nothing leaving the surface ready for paint and contaminant free..

[Vinnie]

On 7/19/2018 at 7:21 PM, BikingLampy said:

Thanks all.

 

I did indeed start with Halfords rattle can primer, and yes, it's tough as old boots, but the finish quality was pretty dreadful - "powdery" for want of a better word - and trying to buff that off without losing raised detail or going through the paint was on a hiding to nothing. I did try decanting it into the airbrush, but seemed to be a lot more faff for average results.

 

 

 

1

I use Halfords plastic primer straight from the can, leave it for a couple of hours and then swipe it with micromesh. Works for me.