Thinking of changing paint, need some advice please.

[ApriliaRSV4F]

Currently I am using Tamiya acrylic paint, but I am getting sick a tired of them being so fragile and falling off after you look at them too hard. Firstly, I wipe down the surfaces with alcohol  and prime (Badger Stynarez or AK Interactive surfacer) the painting surface before applying the paint. But the paint still seems to wear off at the slightest touch. I use Tamiya because it is thr only paint I can get without ordering online. I have been thinking of trying Gunze acrylics a go, but have also been thinking about going trying Mr Color Lacquer which I can by here in New Zealand and if it isn't available I can get it online from overseas without it being over priced.

Also will the AK-Interactive chipping fluid still work with a lacquer paint.

[bmwh548]

I'm really happy with Gunze's lacquer stuff. Very nice finish, pretty tough, very quick drying times.

[Graham Boak]

As for advice: over the years I've learnt that whereas warnings can be helpful, recommendations are unreliable.  In the end there is no substitute to "suck it and see".  Is it really so expensive to buy a tin of paint in New Zealand that you can't do just that?

[Gorby]

Very odd.

I use Tamiya acrylic and don't have this problem. I don't rub the plastic down with alcohol and sometimes I don't even prime and I haven't experienced the problems you have mentioned. You haven't said if you seal the paint with varnish. If you don't, it may help and you could stick with Tamiya.

Also, make sure the paint is well stirred before using it.

[Steve Noble]

I've used Tamiya acrylics a lot over the years. They're not the toughest of finishes, but I've never had them rub off as easily as you describe. I usually use them on engine parts, interiors etc on car and bike kits. Never on body parts, where I use Mr Color lacquer or Zero paints. I don't think cleaning with alcohol will help adhesion as they are alcohol based paints. Also I never use a primer under them, just straight onto the bare plastic. If however you switch to Mr Color lacquer paints I can whole heartedly recommend them..

[sapperastro]

Have to agree with others here. While the Tamiya Acrylic is no enamel, or Revell Aqua, it is one of the tougher acrylics I have used, especially after giving it a day or two to harden. Apart from that, as Graham says, buy a pot of of each paint you are thinking of and give them a shot.

[CharlieNZ]

What are you thinning the Tamiya paint with?

 

Is the Tamiya paint rubbing off the primer, or is the Tamiya paint and the primer rubbing of the plastic?

[roginoz]

Tamiya, along with Gunze, is my go-to acrylic paint for every model I've built in the last 5 years, since returning to the hobby, in fact.

 

Never experienced, ever, any of the problems described in the OP; I rarely wash kits before assembly, apart from resin kits; a spray of the frames [sprues] with Tamiya rattle can primer, then in to it. Thinning [of paints] is with Mr Hobby self-levelling thinners.

 

 

 

The only occasion Tamiya acrylics have caused irritations, no more than that, is upon removal of masking tape over their aluminium or chrome silver [XF-16 and X-11 respectively], some light residue is left on the tape, probably through my not waiting  long enough before masking. 

 

Something radically wrong with the damage the OP describes which, thankfully I've yet to experience.

 

Good luck with your investigations,

 

Rog