JeroenS Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Beautiful! Well worth the effort. And what a great thing to have this hobby of ours to push real life away for a couple of hours. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 hour ago, JeroenS said: Beautiful! Well worth the effort. And what a great thing to have this hobby of ours to push real life away for a couple of hours. Could not improve on this comment Stay safe Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 1 hour ago, JeroenS said: Beautiful! Well worth the effort. And what a great thing to have this hobby of ours to push real life away for a couple of hours. So true, indeed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 10, 2021 Author Share Posted October 10, 2021 Hello my friends, I have added the central pattern decals yesterday and just applied a coat of Gloss varnish (X30 Acqueous Hobby Color thinned with the same brand thinner): My wheels are now ready to assemble (lately). I may focus on other necessary corrections. Among the latter, there will be, after the big problems met with the most recent version of Alclad Klear Kote (see above), that ruined the fine result I had got previously with the old version of the same product, the necessity to get back a nice Glossy body, with a mirror effect. I know I may get such a fine result with the latter product, but it requires for that a long, delicate and patient sanding and buffing job. Could I get an as good (if not better) result with another Gloss varnish? That is the question. I just sent the following e-mail to Barbatos Rex, whose great videos in YT were ever mentioned above in the thread. It is in particular him who recommended the great GSW Chrome Brush and Airbrush products. Here is the message I sent to him: Hello Robert, I got your e-mail by Wayne. I am Olivier, french modeler building currently a 1/16 replica of the Ford Mustang that was used as Pace car in 1964 for the Indianapolis 500 race. I use for that the old and rather poor Coupe AMT kit (turning unavailable or nearly so nowadays) I began this build in July 2018 (with an interruption of about 14 months in the middle). This build may be seen in the Britmodeller forum: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235040668-ford-mustang-1964-12-convertible-116-from-the-coupe-amt-kit-the-indy-500-pace-car/page/69/&tab=comments#comment-4210987 I saw several of your great videos, especially the one dedicated to the Green Stuff World Chrome paints in both versions, brush and airbrush. Thanks to you, these great products are gonna replace in my practice the although very good Chrome Alclad (airbrush) and Molotow LC (brush). Now I have 2 questions for you: 1) what is for you the best option to get the best Gloss Black base under the GSW airbrush Chrome? Personally, up to now, it is with the TS-14 Tamiya (sprayed directly from the can) that I could get the best results. 2) what Gloss varnish do you recommend to get the best mirror effect on my Mustang body with less efforts. Personally, I got the best results with the old version of the Alclad Klear Kote but there is a long and patient sanding and buffing job to remove the grain this varnish produces. I bought the recent version of the same product and had big problems with the latter, that was totally unable to set, even after 15 days, ruining the results I had got first. I also tried the 2 components MRP Super Clear varnish and had problems too with the latter. Briefly, I would like to know what you suggest. Thanks a lot in advance for your reply Best regards, Olivier Of course, I will share with you his reply as soon as I get it. Thanks a lot again to Wayne (Urshimato) for his contribution to my build. Cheers, O 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urshimato Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 You are very welcome Olivier, pleased to be of some assistance to your terrific build. Wayne 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 11, 2021 Author Share Posted October 11, 2021 Hello to all, My next step, after the wheels redoing job, will be to replace the damaged air inlet grille: N.B: the first version of that grille is on p. 23. It had been printed with the Anycubic Photon, after many trials (I was totally inexperienced in 3D printing). The grille had been printed in translucent Green, not the best color. This time, it will be more easily covered, as it is White… To be followed... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Hello to all, This morning, I've been working on my transplant: To be followed... Cheers, O P.S: no reply up to now from Barbatos Rex. If I don't get any reply, I will probably do myself a comparison between several Gloss varnishes before going on. I could very well use the "Old" Alclad Klear Kote, that gave very good results, but if I could a product that could give as good (if not better) results with less sanding job to remove the grain, it would be fine. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 On 11/10/2021 at 07:55, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello to all, My next step, after the wheels redoing job, will be to replace the damaged air inlet grille: +++ To be followed... Olivier, I acknowledge you do have a reputation to defend, but wouldn't it be an idea to buy three kits, build the first out of the box (with a minute amount of filler granted) and slap paint on, the second with a lot of good ideas (every good idea employed only once) resulting in a "pretty good" model and the third after all that experience in perfection? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 20 minutes ago, Jochen Barett said: Olivier, I acknowledge you do have a reputation to defend, but wouldn't it be an idea to buy three kits, build the first out of the box (with a minute amount of filler granted) and slap paint on, the second with a lot of good ideas (every good idea employed only once) resulting in a "pretty good" model and the third after all that experience in perfection? Jochen, Funny to read your comment, since it is what I did a few years ago, building in 3 weeks an out of the box version after having spent 14 months on the partially scratch built version of the Italeri 1/12 Fiat 806. I could be tempted by such a fast build, to enhance the countless corrections and improvements brought to the AMT kit. But, unlike the 806, the AMT 1/16 Ford Mustang has become nearly impossible to buy, except maybe on ebay where it is sold at an indecent price considering what is in the box. As to build a "perfect" third version, it also would sound rather logic (that is what I did with my previous build, the Nieuport 11 at 1/48), but I admit I will be happy to focus on another project (maybe less ambitious) after so many hours on this one. I prefer to try make corrections to finally get something acceptable if not perfect. Cheers, O 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 It is just so ___________ing to see you rebuild each and every detail more than once - after having reached a level most of us would have considered "acceptable", (fill in the blanks and in case anybody feels I'm not speeking for him/her when saying "most of us", let me know) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Boring?? I could understand that, definitely… 😂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvp Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 4 hours ago, Jochen Barett said: It is just so ___________ing to see you rebuild each and every detail more than once - after having reached a level most of us would have considered "acceptable", (fill in the blanks and in case anybody feels I'm not speeking for him/her when saying "most of us", let me know) Gut-wrenching... As an aside, and please don't take this as criticism, with all the coats of paint and different types of clear coats I would be suspect of the durability of the final finish against cracking or yellowing or long term compatibility. Would it be more fitting to strip the paint now and achieve a more uniform and less thick finish with a new application? Inevitably, when buffing the finish there will be some spot that gets sanded/ buffed through and if repairs need to be done, it would be with comparable finishes. Being a perfectionist can be a curse, but ultimately you have to satisfy yourself - just speaking from experience🙄. I enjoy following your build, definitely a learning experience even for an old hand like me! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 23 hours ago, Lvp said: Gut-wrenching... I didn't know this english term. I would have myself preferred to achieve better my wheels and many other aspects from the outset, and I don't do all these corrections to "defend a reputation" (thanks though for this compliment) but just to be glad and proud with my final result. 23 hours ago, Lvp said: with all the coats of paint and different types of clear coats I would be suspect of the durability of the final finish against cracking or yellowing or long term compatibility I don't add coats of paints on other ones, Les. A sanding job is done each time (here too, I would have preferred not to have a big problem with the devil spot or with the new Klear Kote Gloss and this sanding job is definitely tedious) to avoid thick coats of paints. And when I said in a previous post that I will probably do tests of Gloss coats (if I don't get a reply from Barbatos Rex), it means of course not on the model, but on plastic spoons or any other sample. No offense Cheers, O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 Hello again chaps, I apologize if my reply this morning was a bit rude. I admit I am a bit on edge after the awful period I mentioned above. You are absolutely right, Jochen and Les. I could have avoided to repaint the body if I had done a trial with a new product such the Klear Kote Gloss, even if I did not expect a problem with a brand such Alclad... I go on with the filling/ sanding job to get a good integration of my grafted grille: To be followed... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 I'm not a native speaker, but "gut-wrenching" comes close 😉 "boring" is way off. It somehow reminds me of passing an accident on the Autobahn, all these dead bodies all over the place, torn off body parts, blood oil coolant smoke and gore, broken glass twisted metal - but somehow one can't look away and has to notice every fascinating detail. Talking about details I have the impression (and I apologize for mentioning it!) the grille's lines are not 100% parallel to the Mustang-stripe on the hood. So before we watch "filler sand repeat paint gloss cote, remove grille and straighten it, filler sand repeat paint gloss cote" please make sure it is my error and poor eye sigth! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 1 minute ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello again chaps, I apologize if my reply this morning was a bit rude. +++ Don't apologize! I had the impression you felt a bit "assaulted" by me/us, and that is probably the last thing I would try to achieve. When talking about defending your reputation I wasn't talking about your models (*), I was referring to your name "totally mad ..." with my tongue right in my left cheek. (*): The Russians know white envy ("That's great! I'd love to have that too!") and black envy ("That person deserve such a great thing!"), in German envy is just yellow (who knows why?), so I'm just a bit envious regarding your patience and your not showing any merci to yourself. The final result is always convincing. Allez les bleus! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 13, 2021 Author Share Posted October 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Jochen Barett said: Don't apologize! I had the impression you felt a bit "assaulted" by me/us, and that is probably the last thing I would try to achieve. When talking about defending your reputation I wasn't talking about your models (*), I was referring to your name "totally mad ..." with my tongue right in my left cheek. I understand, Jochen, and anyway, once more, "defending my reputation was rather kind". True that I chose Totally Mad Olivier as nickname, and that I am perfectionist in model making. In the example of wheels, it is Prop Duster (Steve) that had suggested properly in last April 7 (p. 57) me to improve them. It is interesting to notice that in my reply (same day, p. 58), I considered that it was too late. But this problem of hubcaps much too external, was more and more in my head. And it is when I noticed that the tyres inscriptions I had done, relying on the restored Pace Car, were in fact wrong, that I decided to redo totally the wheels. I am very glad to have taken such a difficult decision, even if it still delays my build completion. 1 hour ago, Jochen Barett said: Talking about details I have the impression (and I apologize for mentioning it!) the grille's lines are not 100% parallel to the Mustang-stripe on the hood Cheers, O 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted October 13, 2021 Share Posted October 13, 2021 (edited) The orientation of the grille's central slots seems to point (seen from car's rear to front) a bit to the passenger side (while the Mustang-stripe looks straight) and the slots' edges at the front seem to be more towards the car's front at the driver's side then at the passenger's seide in this pic (sorry, I do not have a picture file server to post edited pictures with lines) (in case it is just my eyes or the picture taken at a slight angle, I am happy and keep my mouth shut a few minutes - and yes, the slots do look a lot better than in the "before" version!) (I think I will NEVER dare to show one of my models here - NEVER) Edited October 13, 2021 by Jochen Barett 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 Hello my friends, A new little update: I have to find another way to get a thin and regular slot. Some suggestions? Maybe I could try to add a bit soft paraffin to the liquid silicon spray… 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvp Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 8 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello my friends, A new little update: I have to find another way to get a thin and regular slot. Some suggestions? Maybe I could try to add a bit soft paraffin to the liquid silicon spray… No apologies necessary. The best way to achieve the slot would be to fill with putty (LC or epoxy) and use a scribe/chisel to create a new slot. You can make a template of the curvature using something like label making tape, which is thick and rigid. Although a lot of sanding and painting will ensue😞 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Duster Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 Olivier; Very credible ( i.e. satisfactory) result on the vent/grille slots new replacement part. I am not surprised at all.😉 Perhaps use of a piece of brass stock , sprayed with silicone would minimize the putty/ TLCP sticking to the metal surface. Also another thought, perhaps by cutting the shim piece just a tiny bit short , it could be slid back and forth in the panel gap before the putty hardens completely? I offer these suggestions only to stimulate your brain into finding a real solution. 😛 Reminder, the 1:1 size car was built over a much longer period of time and by many people. Thus I think you, as the lone builder, have proven that your effort is far superior. apprécie le voyage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 Thanks a lot Les and Steve for your suggestions! 23 hours ago, Lvp said: The best way to achieve the slot would be to fill with putty (LC or epoxy) and use a scribe/chisel to create a new slot. Les, I of course know this method that consists in using an engraving on the filled joint. But I admit that I am not totally convinced by the latter. Maybe it is because I am not skilled enough with the latter, but it doesn't gave, when I used it, very neat results. 2 other reasons why I will try not to use it: - I need to find a method that could be used for the doors slots too, and engraving with the heavy model in hand there would be even more challenging - if possible, I would like to avoid redoing the stripes painting job. Yet if I fill the slots with putty, it will necessarily affect them quite a lot... That is why this method would be used only as a last resort. 7 hours ago, Prop Duster said: perhaps by cutting the shim piece just a tiny bit short , it could be slid back and forth in the panel gap before the putty hardens completely? We had the same idea, Steve. It is indeed what I tried to do, with furthermore a variant: I applied a thin coat of CA remover (as separator) on the little portion of acetate sheet (about 2 cm) and I used CA as putty (instead of Tamiya LCP). Despite the remover, the CA tended to adhere to the sheet. Meanwhile, this approach didn't totally fail. But finally, here is what I did in areas that were still not satisfying after these different trials: it is a kind of variant vs Les method: I filled the slot with CA but didn't leave it set, inserting (several passes) my CA homemade applicator (0,3 mm steel rod): This method is not too difficult and so could be an option for the doors/ body slots... N.B: even with this method, a little portion of the stripes will probably need to be redone... To be followed... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvp Posted October 15, 2021 Share Posted October 15, 2021 1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Thanks a lot Les and Steve for your suggestions! Les, I of course know this method that consists in using an engraving on the filled joint. But I admit that I am not totally convinced by the latter. Maybe it is because I am not skilled enough with the latter, but it doesn't gave, when I used it, very neat results. 2 other reasons why I will try not to use it: - I need to find a method that could be used for the doors slots too, and engraving with the heavy model in hand there would be even more challenging - if possible, I would like to avoid redoing the stripes painting job. Yet if I fill the slots with putty, it will necessarily affect them quite a lot... That is why this method would be used only as a last resort. We had the same idea, Steve. It is indeed what I tried to do, with furthermore a variant: I applied a thin coat of CA remover (as separator) on the little portion of acetate sheet (about 2 cm) and I used CA as putty (instead of Tamiya LCP). Despite the remover, the CA tended to adhere to the sheet. Meanwhile, this approach didn't totally fail. But finally, here is what I did in areas that were still not satisfying after these different trials: it is a kind of variant vs Les method: I filled the slot with CA but didn't leave it set, inserting (several passes) my CA homemade applicator (0,3 mm steel rod): This method is not too difficult and so could be an option for the doors/ body slots... N.B: even with this method, a little portion of the stripes will probod removableollowed... Is the hood removable? If so, you could trim some material from the edge of the cowl. Apply some putty to the edge. Then add a thin shim (Thickness of the gap desired) to the edge of the hood with double sided tape and press it back into the putty to get the correct contour. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted October 15, 2021 Author Share Posted October 15, 2021 On 15/10/2021 at 16:47, Lvp said: Is the hood removable? If so, you could trim some material from the edge of the cowl. Apply some putty to the edge. Then add a thin shim (Thickness of the gap desired) to the edge of the hood with double sided tape and press it back into the putty to get the correct contour. Believe it or not, I had exactly the same idea: remove the hood, that was just lightly glued. How did I not think of that earlier, while it would have made things a lot easier? That is so what I did, and I could so get a neater slot (there is though still a lot to do before I get an acceptable result for this area). On the other hand, I didn't understand very well how you use the double sided tape. Can you precise this please? (it could be helpful for the doors/ body slots) Here is the slot I could get by removing the hood: N.B: - if the stripes need to get a painting correction, it will be also easier to do it on the removed hood... - surprisingly, still no reply from Barbatos Rex. It hardly seems that I will have to do my own Gloss coat tests myself. Btw, I have just ordered another Clear coat to take part to the test, the Zero Paint 2K Urethane Diamond finish one (it will be the first time I use a Zero Paint product)... Edit later: N.B: sorry if redoing these stripes will contribute to turn even more gut-wrenching 😉 this thread, but it was the only way to get them (hopefully) better too (like the wheels, the grille and so many other details...) Cheers, O 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prop Duster Posted October 20, 2021 Share Posted October 20, 2021 Olivier I am very glad you found the solution to you "gap-problem". The gap now, does look very much better, so the work payed dividends- hooray! As to the stripes I have no doubt they shall soon be put to rights-straight as an arrow 😁 OK, ready for the next adventure 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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