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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Hello guys,

 

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Now the challenge will be to keep this nice Chrome look despite the necessary handlings to come, while the Alclad is a very fragile paint. Should I apply a Gloss varnish? Which one is the best to preserve the Chrome aspect? Unless I change my mind (suggestions?), I should apply in 6 hours (recommended curing time in the instructions) the Alclad Aqua Gloss (ALC-600) that is the option suggested by the manufacturer itself (the instructions suggest to, prior to apply the Aqua Gloss, gently remove any dust or excess pigment with a very soft clean cloth)...

 

Thanks for watching, 

 

Cheers, O

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Can't help with the varnish question I'm afraid but that chrome finish looks superb!

 

     Stay safe            Roger

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Superb finish indeed. Struggle definitely worth it.

 

I read in another thread someone dipping a chrome piece in ak gauzy agent. Might have been Molotow chrome actually. Guess that doesn't help with the trim... Worth a try on a test piece maybe 🤔

 

Nick

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1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hello guys,

 

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Now the challenge will be to keep this nice Chrome look despite the necessary handlings to come, while the Alclad is a very fragile paint. Should I apply a Gloss varnish? Which one is the best to preserve the Chrome aspect? Unless I change my mind (suggestions?), I should apply in 6 hours (recommended curing time in the instructions) the Alclad Aqua Gloss (ALC-600) that is the option suggested by the manufacturer itself (the instructions suggest to, prior to apply the Aqua Gloss, gently remove any dust or excess pigment with a very soft clean cloth)...

 

Thanks for watching, 

 

Cheers, O

 

Hi Olivier :)

 

I've used several times ALCLAD II Varnis "AQUA GLOSS CLEAR ALC600" to clear Alclad Chrome, and have never been disappointed by the result. The shine has been perfectly preserved
If it may help....

Friendly

CC

 

 

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Thanks a lot Roger and Nick for your kind message, and Thierry for your tip about the Aqua Gloss.

I could have done a trial test, but CC comment leaded me to trust in this Alclad product (that I had ever used myself, btw).

I applied a thin/ medium coat on both trims, and took a photo before and after the Aqua Gloss clear:

 

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Conclusion: I lose about 10/ 15% of shine with the Aqua Gloss coat. The result remains acceptable but a bit disappointing for me. The question is: would another Clear do better? And another question is: would a 2nd coat still affect the mirror effect? In the doubt, I will avoid to apply a 2nd coat...

 

Cheers, O

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13 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Thanks a lot Roger and Nick for your kind message, and Thierry for your tip about the Aqua Gloss.

I could have done a trial test, but CC comment leaded me to trust in this Alclad product (that I had ever used myself, btw).

I applied a thin/ medium coat on both trims, and took a photo before and after the Aqua Gloss clear:

 

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Conclusion: I lose about 10/ 15% of shine with the Aqua Gloss coat. The result remains acceptable but a bit disappointing for me. The question is: would another Clear do better? And another question is: would a 2nd coat still affect the mirror effect? In the doubt, I will avoid to apply a 2nd coat...

 

Cheers, O

 

Have you buffed the clear ?....probably not yet !

If I were in your shoes, I would try before applying a second coat.

In any case, whatever varnish you apply to chrome paint, you will lose some of the shine.

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6 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

 

Have you buffed the clear ?....probably not yet !

If I were in your shoes, I would try before applying a second coat.

In any case, whatever varnish you apply to chrome paint, you will lose some of the shine.

That is right, Thierry, I didn’t. I will, and another photo in the same conditions will be taken after this buffing. 
Thanks a lot

Friendly

Olivier

 

And a bit later (about 1h40 after the Aqua Gloss apply):

 

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Let's focus on a precise area:

 

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My personal feelings: the buffing did not improve very significantly the result (maybe it increased of about 3 % the shine vs the Aqua Gloss alone). I remain a bit disappointed and go on thinking the shine was better without applying any varnish. Like CC, I think I will lose some of the shine whatever varnish I apply (to confirm with several varnishes trials, though).

I hope at least that this Aqua Gloss will provide the expected protection, as I need to apply a mask on this trim (WW to apply around despite the masks applied). I will carefully wait a few hours before applying these masks and will use low tack ones...

If you don't need to handle or mask the Chrome surface on which the Alclad was applied, I recommend not to apply any varnish.

If, like me, you need to handle or/ and handle these Chrome surface, the Aqua Gloss is an acceptable option, but you have to consider that this Clear will affect a bit the lovely shine you got first.

The modeler's life is quite complicated!

 

Cheers, O

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Yikes!! Man that's a toughy. In my experience if I use Alclad I just buff it and leave it be as I haven't found a clear that works well with it yet. I have, however, had decent results from Molotow dispensed and shot through an airbrush and after a 48 hour cure out period came back over it with Spaztix Ultimate Chrome Clear. Worked good for me on my '56 Ford F-100 wheels.

 

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Edited by mustang1989
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Thanks a lot for your contribution to this "toughy" (you taught me this expression), mustang1989. 

As I wait the setting time for my Aqua Gloss before masking the trim, I go on with the grille, adding many details to get a faithful one:

 

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Cheers, O

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Oliver, Again I can only think of your work as superb, regardless of your personal opinion :winkgrin:.   I was reading some of my other emails and the following was discovered among  the sites offerings.         Engineering prototype of the Ford Mustang.

I am not really trying to influence the selection of your next magnum opus, But it is intriguing, No?

🙃

Récompensez-vous avec une pensée chaleureuse, pour tout le chemin que vous avez parcouru.

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Thanks a lot Steve for your kind words and also for this video. I ignored totally the existence of such a Mustang prototype. 

I am thinking more and more (but it is a bit early) of what could be my next project.

I have several kits waiting, and I must say that I would not be against a more simple build.

Among the options, very different builds:

- the Tamiya Repsol Honda RC213 V'14 at 1/12 (the last motorbike I built was the Suzuki Van Van, I was about 15!)

- the Italeri Mirage III C (or E) at 1/32 (I love this aircraft and ever built 2 versions about 15 years ago from the Eduard kit at 1/48)

- the Tamiya Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA at 1/24

- the Italeri Fiat Mefisto at 1/12 

- the Revell VW Combi at 1/24, other mythical vehicle (I have got the Samba Bus Lufthansa but could be tempted to represent the very good "Little Miss Sunshine" film one:

 

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- there is finally this Italeri recent Alfa Romeo 8C ever mentioned above (the only one in this list that I don't own yet)

 

We shall see...

 

Cheers, O

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Great work on this epic build Oliver,

love to see you do your magic on this...- the Tamiya Repsol Honda RC213 V'14 at 1/12,

no pressure mate! 😉

regards

Mark D

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Thanks Mark for your message and the Repsol 2014 suggestion. We shall see...

I see you live at Cleveland, not so far (not very close though, I admit) from Indianapolis, where the Ford Mustang I build was exposed and used as Pace Car in 1964.

As I didn't succeed to find in the Net the Pace Car precise plate (below), I wonder if you could find it in a Indy 500 museum...

No pressure too, of course 😉...

 

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The "best" period pic I have showing this plate is this one:

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and the "most faithful" close-up I have is this:

 

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It is not exactly the same and the inscription "INDIANAPOLIS MOTOR SPEEDWAY" should be over the logo instead of being in the wings and tyre in the middle...

If I finally can't find a good close-up of the real plate, I will though use this one...

Any help, coming from you or anyone else, would be welcome...

 

Cheers, O

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Hello Oliver, I afraid it’s Cleveland UK not Cleveland USA....😂

wish it was though!

mind you, I could get a ticket over to look for you...but COVID isolation is too long mate! 😉

 

regards

mark.

 

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Oliver perhaps this page from Indianapolis Motor Speedway web site shop , shows a clear view of the logo for you to use ( IMS Lapel Pin seems especially clear.) note too: the flags on the logo are only one colour each but "folded" in two.  re: the IMS 7 Flag Set With Base / 7 Flags, shown immediately  above the pin illustration. Hope this information is useful.  

 

International Motor Speedway (Indy 500) online shop.

 

Bon modelage 

 

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Thanks a lot Steve for your contribution. Pity, this logo is not precisely the one we may see on the Pace Car plate.

I have sent an e-mail to the Indy museum and hope they will be able to help me...

 

In the meantime, a new "update":

 

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Pity, sometimes, you redo the job several times, and the result remains unsatisfying, you don't know why:

 

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The previous result made me think that this time, it was finally OK, and it is only when I applied the Gloss coat (H30 Hobby Color) that I found with fright that the defect had again reappeared:

 

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Have you experienced such a phenomenon with paint? for my part, never.

 

Cheers, O

 

 

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Hi Olivier

 

Is that a crack in the paint? Looking at the picture it looks more like a piece of hair/eyebrow has got stuck in the paint.

 

Do you put the model under a box when the paint is drying?

 

Nick

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3 hours ago, Fnick said:

Hi Olivier

 

Is that a crack in the paint? Looking at the picture it looks more like a piece of hair/eyebrow has got stuck in the paint.

 

Do you put the model under a box when the paint is drying?

 

Nick

Thanks Nick for your contribution.

It is indeed a crack in the paint (and not a hair/eyebrow that would not come-back every time after its removal) that doesn’t appear first (just after applying the paint) but later.

9 minutes ago, Six97s said:

No idea on the paint, but I think you might want to revisit your distributor wiring. 😉  This diagram shows the correct firing order:

 

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/attachments/289-firing-order-jpg.120384/

 

The real thing:

 

http://assets.mustangandfords.com/f/75577145.jpg?width=620&

Hello Six97s

My hood will be closed and the wires will just be slightly visible from below (in the context of a modelers contest, in particular). I have though decided to represent them for a more realistic perception but you will understand that I didn’t try to be totally accurate on their distribution in such conditions. 
When I had been at the Torino Fiat museum for researches regarding the 806, I was surprised to see that the engine of the 1/6 806 exposed was represented just by a kind of foam (more, this museum model appeared to be rather wrong, btw).


Cheers, O

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Hi again,

 

One more time (it is at least the 4th time), I redo the full putty/ sanding/ painting job on the left front wing. This time, I will post every step. Maybe doing that will bring good luck...

 

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To be followed, consequently... but in the meantime, I can go on with the grille:

 

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Cheers, O

 

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7 hours ago, Six97s said:

No idea on the paint, but I think you might want to revisit your distributor wiring. 😉  This diagram shows the correct firing order:

 

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/attachments/289-firing-order-jpg.120384/

 

The real thing:

 

http://assets.mustangandfords.com/f/75577145.jpg?width=620&

Thanks for this, I'll try and make use of it for my Mustang builds over in the group build section.

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Hello chaps,

 

I tried to assemble my Chrome trim in front of the grille:

 

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I also bring corrections where necessary such the dash cap, stupidly a bit sprayed with WW as you can see in yesterday morning’s post above

 

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To be followed...

 

 

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Hello.

 I would like to recommend a YouTube channel to you and whom ever else may be interested. He has done extensive testing of many paint brands. One of his videos is dedicated to chrome paint sprayed over a variety of base colours. He has done all the hard work for us, his channel name is Barbatos Rex and is well worth a look

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