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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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23 hours ago, Ghost69 said:

Not made for me all that. I won't linger too long here. A few more pictures of my car and it will certainly be good. 

 

Dear Manu,

I hope my last reply did not contribute to your decision to soon stop posting on Brit. It would be a pity as you are a great modeler (I have been watching your last posts and your build will be amazing, definitely). 

Olivier

 

Hello chaps,

Before a full pro working day, I applied my new mix this morning, and I just applied the Klear Kote. I am closer and closer from my goal, but there is still a little difference. I expect and hope both colors will match very well for my next trial, tomorrow:

 

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Edit this Tuesday morning: the last mix gives a nearly acceptable result, that I won't show here not to burden excessively the thread (ever 50 pages!). I have to add (just done) more White X2 and a bit more XF55 and this time, I think it will be fine. I will just show the final result after the whole body repainting job.

 

Cheers, TMO

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21 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

 

Dear Manu,

I hope my last reply did not contribute to your decision to soon stop posting on Brit. It would be a pity as you are a great modeler (I have been watching your last posts and your build will be amazing, definitely). 

Olivier

 

Hello Olivier
Funny idea to think that.  Not at all.
Don't ever think such things again ;o)
By the way, I didn't tell you, I took the opportunity to repaint the engine with a colour that suits it much better when I replaced the screws, as everything was dismantled.  You had suggested it to me and as for Dan, I followed your good advice ;o)) 
Let's go back to our models, and don't just blah blah blah . 🤣
Thank you

 

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22 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

 

 

Dear Manu,

I hope my last reply did not contribute to your decision to soon stop posting on Brit. It would be a pity as you are a great modeler (I have been watching your last posts and your build will be amazing, definitely). 

Olivier

 

Hello chaps,

Before a full pro working day, I applied my new mix this morning, and I just applied the Klear Kote. I am closer and closer from my goal, but there is still a little difference. I expect and hope both colors will match very well for my next trial, tomorrow:

 

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Edit this Tuesday morning: the last mix gives a nearly acceptable result, that I won't show here not to burden excessively the thread (ever 50 pages!). I have to add (just done) more White X2 and a bit more XF55 and this time, I think it will be fine. I will just show the final result after the whole body repainting job.

 

Cheers, TMO

Christmas greetings to you, Olivier.

Looking at the photo of the hood, I noticed that the front edge to the left of the "F" has been buffed through.

Having worked in the auto business, I recall a technique used in the body shop where when separate panels needed repair the paint was feathered on to the adjacent panel to lessen the "two-tone effect" slightly mismatched color. With some fine airbrush work along the edge of the hood and buffed through area you might lessen the color disparity. Not sure if you have enough room on the ends of the doors to do the same.

When there are color deviations on panels separated by gaps,  they are more noticeable to the "mind's eye" because of the darker line.

Keep up the good work

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On 22/12/2020 at 18:49, Lvp said:

Christmas greetings to you, Olivier.

Looking at the photo of the hood, I noticed that the front edge to the left of the "F" has been buffed through.

Having worked in the auto business, I recall a technique used in the body shop where when separate panels needed repair the paint was feathered on to the adjacent panel to lessen the "two-tone effect" slightly mismatched color. With some fine airbrush work along the edge of the hood and buffed through area you might lessen the color disparity. Not sure if you have enough room on the ends of the doors to do the same.

When there are color deviations on panels separated by gaps,  they are more noticeable to the "mind's eye" because of the darker line.

Keep up the good work

Thanks a lot Les and merry Christmas to you and to all!

Les, I had noticed this buffed area you mention (not only there, btw), that let appear the AMT polystyren, and the necessary corrections have been done.

As I said above, after having determined as well as possible the color that would match with hood and doors (incredible to have to use a different color to get the same final looking effect), I have completely removed the paint on the body, using a big amount of Paint Remover (about 700 ml in a trough).

This removal did not dispense me from a complementary putty/ sanding job, especially where I had put previously some LC CA used as putty.

I took advantage of this new painting job to make corrections on little defects, in particular on the ait inlet (one of the tiny pin was damaged).

For the new coat of paint, I first applied the paint only on edges, as it had appeared that these areas tended to be erased with the buffing job.

Only then, a second coat was applied.

I also modified my way to apply the Klear Kote. Up to now, I applied a medium coat at 15/20 psi, as mentioned in the Alclad instructions. This medium coat leaded to get particles of dust here or there.

This time, I applied a thin coat (same pressure, about 17 psi), that doesn't give a bright surface but avoids dust. This first coat was gently buffed after setting with the Fine Compound Tamiya, and was followed by a second thin coat.

This is precisely where I am now:

 

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Regarding your suggestion (thanks), I first did not understand what you meant. But now I think you suggest to apply a coat of paint, hood and doors in place, on the borders areas between panels. If it is so, I must say it is something I ever did above as I tried to attenuate the difference of color, but this was clearly not enough, and I had to create a new mix, lighter and a bit more grey to avoid this problem of color difference.

 

To be followed, TMO

 

N.B: the layers being much more thin, I consider that 1 hour setting time (the time mentioned in the product instructions for a medium coat) is enough. 

 

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Good morning Olivier and a merry Christmas to you too 🙂 

 

I hope you'll get your paint issues sorted, it is starting to look like it! As usual your perseverance is paying off. 

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Hello,

 

Painting body with open parts it's a hard challenge, it's harder on big  surface, not an easy task.

For sanding I use Micromesh (like you) Mr Hoby and last step Meguiars the scratch remover and polishing products (3 steps).

Results are great.

 

Good luck for resolving your paint problem.

 

Merry Christmas

 

Philippe

 

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Knowing you Olivier, I'm sure you'll solve your way out of this no matter what. You're one of the most dedicated builders I know, especially in this scale 1/24. 

 

Good luck... up till now, safe from this detail, the car looks simply amazing. 

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I was in a hurry when replying to Philippe 5 hours ago, no time to post the pics below.

Here they are, showing what I got after buffing the varnish:

 

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a pinch of, sorry...

 

Without waiting, I decided to add a drop of X8 to my mix:

 

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I applied a thin coat of this new (and last, hopefully!) mix. I get this (the surface is mat, as the Klear Kote was not yet applied):

 

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I thank again CC who warned me about this color problem, while I was about to go on on a bad path...

 

Cheers, TMO

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32 minutes ago, Lvp said:

I think you've got it!!

This recalls me a line in « My fair lady », when the Pr Higgins (Rex Harrison) says, « I think she ´s got it! I think she ´s  got it! », as Elisa (Audrey Hepburn) finally achieves having a good pronunciation to say « the rain in Spain stays mainly in the plain »

 

Cheers, Olivier 

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Catching up on your build. Lots have been (re)done. But I must say that it looks fine to me now.

My feeling is, knowing that you used the same paint on body and bonnet, it had to do with the opacity of the plastics and inside colour (or lack of it), possibly in combination with the amount of light that reached the inside of the pannels.

 

Anyway, looks great now.

 

Merry Christmas to you too.

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Thanks a lot Poul for these kind and very encouraging words.

I suppose like you that this difference of color is mainly due to the opacity, that varies from a panel to another one. Moreover, I applied a coat of WW on the inside part of the bonnet (without this to really change the situation).

Anyway, I just finished my buffing job, using a lot my pulp of my fingers (gloved) to apply the Compounds, the cloths being used to gently buff after each step. Doing so (I also used cotton swabs), I could buff in hollowed, narrow and around relief areas. It is very important to avoid differences of shining with flat surfaces:

 

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And now, is the color difference totally solved? I'll let you judge:

 

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Pity, as you can see, while I seemed to get it before buffing, the answer is no after this job! I recall I just added a little drop of X8 to my mix and though, the consequence is that I again get a more Ivory body vs doors and bonnet. This build will end up driving me crazy...

The difference is imho smaller than before corrections but it is nevertheless undeniable.

Well, I don't know what to do now. Logically, I should add a bit White to my mix... Without considering the additional time to spend (where I am...), even if my coats are thin, I'm afraid I will loose a bit details with new paint and varnish layers.

Now will this difference be noticeable on the finished model, with strips on the rear trunk, letters on the body, Chrome painted details?

What would you do, you?

 

Cheers, TMO

 

Edit a bit later: I decided to add some White to my mix (about 15%) and to make a full trial on my 2nd kit front wings that frame the bonnet first (paint, Klear Kote, buffing). Something I could (and should) have carefully done before doing the corrections on my build...

The new mix with more White has been applied as mentioned 30 mn ago and I just applied the Klear Kote. The buffing will be done in 1 hour, and the conclusions drawn then.

 

And still 1 h later:

 

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Consequently, about 10% White is again added and a new trial on the 2 nd kit is gonna be done...

 

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It's certainly an improvement but unfortunately it's still too noticeable, in my view. The quality of your work deserves your paint job to be tweaked, if required, ten times more until it's just right. That's not to hand you more work, it's to give you a compliment for the achieved build level. 

 

Knowing you a bit I'm sure you'll think of this the same way. :D  

 

I'll send you a few jars of elbow grease ;) 

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Thanks Roy to encourage me and for your elbow grease offer 😉!

I think this time it is OK. Tell me what you think:

 

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That said, when I look at naked eye the front of the model with the 2nd kit body in place, it still seems necessary to add a little White:

 

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Cheers, TMO

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Never be involved in an accident with this car. You’ll never get the paint color right a second time....

Withgout kidding, if it is the opacity of the plastics, wouldn’t it have been much easier to spray the inside (black or grey) thus leveling out the opacity issue? 

After that you should be able to use one WW recipe for all parts of the body and get a consistent color representation.

 

But, I must say, you are nearly there so the above might not bring you much except for a lot of extra work.

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N.B: for the buffing job, I didn't use at all the Tamiya cloths. The compounds were applied with my gloved fingers (nitrile gloves) and polished with the same great Auto Finesse microfiber cloth. Personally, I prefer this method than the use of Tamiya cloths.

 

Cheers, TMO

 

 

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10 hours ago, Pouln said:

Withgout kidding, if it is the opacity of the plastics, wouldn’t it have been much easier to spray the inside (black or grey) thus leveling out the opacity issue? 

Dear Poul,

Despite that I now have a good result, I followed this hint and applied a coat of XF-20 (Medium Grey) on the inside of the bonnet. Honestly, I don't see any difference.

But more, I recall that I had the same problem with doors and the latter case, impossible to apply now a coat of dark color while the inner door is ever assembled using among others Brown Stuff. Yet once hard, this material is  very hard and impossible to disassemble...

 

Cheers, TMO

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