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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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2 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

But the more I think about it, the more I think they should be assembled together before assembling them on the body. This could be also a good way to ease the windshield assembly, as the contact with the body is very narrow...

That makes sense Olivier. 

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I take a few minutes in the middle of a pro working afternoon to say a word about my shooting and measures session of this morning. I thank warmly Jean-Michel, my nearly neighbour, who has a really beautiful and in great condition Mustang 67 Convertible.

I confirm the windshields are the same, and so the session was very useful.

More soon...

Cheers, O

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Phew! Just back home after pro work, I was in a hurry to share with you some interesting new pics and measures (I am a bit tired and for tonight, it will just be an appetizer...)

First, even if this version is a 1967 one, I could't resist and made this pic:

 

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The car was so clean and in so good state, as you can see, and Jean-Michel's garage is also very tidy! In fact, if I had to buy a Mustang one day, I would maybe prefer this 67 (or 68) version, with this awesome rear and lights!

But, quickly, I focused on the windshield, and first confirmed the angle of 42°, with this profile pic taking a step back 

(the photo was cropped secondary):

 

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The 2nd point to confirm (or not) was the upper post height: I measured precisely 77 mm (not counting the rubber seal), meaning 4,81 mm at 1/16. This means that I should decrease more than I did (it is currently 5,3 mm I recall). A very important info, so...

The width of the vertical arms is a bit different up and down: 70,25 mm up (4,39 mm at 1/16) and 65,9 down (4,12 mm). This width is a surprise for me, as I made the same measure (see the post# 1054) and found only 61,8 mm. Would the vertical arms be a bit wider on a 67 model? I don't know...

I also wanted to know the thickness of the vertical arms seen from the inside:

 

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85,7 : 16 = 5,36 mm

 

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Edit wednesday morning: both clear part and frame (the upper post is now about 4,8 mm height on all its lenght) have been consequently decreased a bit more in height, and I think it is really OK now. This afternoon, I will assemble them again with the dsa... 

 

Cheers, TMO

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Hello to all,

 

Before going back to the frame and windscreen job, I decided to go on with the handle:

 

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I was not long to walk the talk:

 

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Furthermore, I go on with the whole windshield work:

 

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Thanks for watching and for eventual suggestions,

 

Cheers, TMO

 

 

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Really nice attention to detail with the windscreen as usual with your builds, just wish I had your patience!

 

      Roger

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Hello to all,

 

I try to go on with this complex shape windshield. I’m still a very long way off for the moment, but with patience, I should get closer from truth little by little. I think I have anyway now enough pics and measures...

 

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I also have to focus on the inside part of the lateral arms. The reality:

 

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To be followed...

 

Cheers, O

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I have now to get as well as possible the right shape in the angle upper post/ lateral arms (among others). I should probably use the Brown Stuff (I was a bit disappointed by the Tamiya epoxy Putty that never gets really hard, when I scratch built the handle). As the frame will be painted Black (before the Alclad Chrome coat), I don't mind using a dark modeling material such the Brown Stuff.

I ever insisted on the complex shape of this area, and I thought it would be useful to synthesize some of my photos in 5 "jumbles" (I had ever used this method for the Fiat 806 build):

 

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I finally thought that I could print these 5 jumbles and try to get all pics on only a A4 piece of paper:

 

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Ok, I did my best to maximum ease the job to come. Now action!

 

More soon...

 

Cheers, TMO

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But before, another merciless comparison, to check the upper post on side view:

 

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The same comparison must be done passenger side, and the MacBook, with the turning tool, allows to use the same reference pic:

 

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I will be far from my bench in the next days, and these corrections and improvements will be done as soon as possible.

 

Thanks for watching, TMO

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It is very difficult to get the correct shape based on pictures, as you do not have the proper perspective whilst the object in your hands is a 3D part. Having said that it seems you are getting there, Olivier. 

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19 hours ago, Pouln said:

It is very difficult to get the correct shape based on pictures, as you do not have the proper perspective whilst the object in your hands is a 3D part. Having said that it seems you are getting there, Olivier. 

You are right, Poul, it is difficult, and I think the only way is to make comparisons on exactly the same view angle. In the example above, when I made the first photo of my windshield, I thought I got the same view angle. But it is only when watching the 2 pics (the reference one and mine) that I realized the view angle was not exactly the same.

And I decided to redo my photo. 

Model making is a discipline that learns a lot to the modeler. Among others, we become better photographers, and we learn to avoid some traps. But above all, we learn patience!

Model making is a school of rigour and humility. 

We do our best to be as close from truth as possible, aware that we may wrong.

Thanks for your kind comment, my friend!

A little update, now:

 

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N.B: a second coat of Surface Primer will certainly be necessary after the setting of this one, as we know this kind of product shrinks when setting.

 

Cheers, O

 

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As I said above, I chose the Brown Stuff to, from the base I ever got, add the necessary material to be finally as close as possible from the frame shape:

 

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Cheers, thanks for watching, O

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First thanks to all for your "likes" and happy birthday Thierry (a day late) 🎂

 

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This is confirmed by the extrapolation below: if my measure is 5,36 mm where I do it (distance between the jaws of my caliper), the distance between the out edge and the inside one on the upper post should be about 3,8 mm. Yet it is for now about 5,2 mm...

 

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This comparison also suggests imho that the inner part of the frame should be thinned...

 

A bit later:

 

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And still a bit later:

 

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Well, that's OK for today...

 

Cheers, TMO

 

 

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Hello to all,

 

I begin now the deflectors build. Let's first check the clear parts provided in the kit:

 

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If the windshield was not simple to represent (I have simplified some aspects), the deflectors are certainly even more complex. So complex that I decided to create 3 sub-folders inside the "deflectors" folder ("inside", "outside" and "edge"). Of course, here too, I will have to simplify a bit the complex shape, but I will try to represent however quite faithfully this area, thanks to the many pics and measures I got. You may have an idea of what I mean with the pics below:

 

Outside:

 

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Inside:

 

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Cheers, O

 

 

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I have thought it would be easier for me to build these deflectors after having drawn them, on a graph paper. But, just outside, the shape was so complex that I finally changed my mind, and decided to trace (using a tracing paper) directly from a profile view, at 1:1,6 scale, directly on my computer screen. The advantage of such a procedure is to have a big drawing, and that all measures can be got very easily (10 mm on my drawing = 1 mm on my build to come):

 

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N.B:

- it took me about 35 mn to get this drawing.

- all hatched areas represent rubber joints

- this drawing gives imho a good perception of the complex shape of these deflectors, considering this is just an outside view in 2D. Of course, considering the scale and as I said above, I don't pretend to represent all the subtle waves of the Chrome portions (I did not represent them on the windshield frame)...

- the tracing paper has been attached on a good quality paper with tape, to get a stronger doc.

- this drawing in 2D doesn't take in consideration that this deflector is in fact not flat but slightly curved...

- I am lucky, the drawing at this very convenient scale fits (only just) on a sheet of A4 paper (in landscape mode).

- here is the pic I used to get this drawing:

 

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- if I had been smarter, I would have waited before writing on this drawing, as it was predictable that a left side, from this right side, would be useful too. I could print (after using the Macbook flip mode ever mentioned above) this left side (still outside):

 

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I should do the same for the inside part of these deflectors. Then will come the time to begin the build...

 

Cheers, O

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Thorough research again, Olivier. I’m sure you will get the results you’re after.

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Thanks a lot, Poul!

 

I made the same job for the inside part of the deflector, using the pic below (restored Pace Car):

 

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Noticing that the lower limit was a bit downward compared with the outside part, I got a little bigger drawing, that led me to turn it a bit if I wanted it to fit with a A4 paper:

 

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This time, I decided not to add measures, as I can very easily get them, with this great 1/1,6 scale. Of course, I printed as well a right side drawing...

Should I draw also the edge? I think about it...

 

Cheers, O

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The inside and outside profile drawings and pics above will be very useful, definitely, but it is also very important for me to have a good perception of the edge seen from the rear, and of the relation deflector/ windshield. I will not draw the edge (I don't have a very good pic for that), but here are some useful pics on which I must rely to get convincing deflectors and a good transition between the latter and the windshield, but also with the door window slot...

 

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Well, now, I think I have all what I need, I may go on and begin the (frightening) build. I feel like the mountaineer who's about to face the Himalayas (I'm exaggerating a little bit...)

 

Cheers, O

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Just did a catch up on your build Olivier, you achieved some very good results with the windshield since last time I checked. And as always I am amazed at your thoroughness when researching the tiniest parts. I am definitely more of a "that looks pretty good, I'm happy" modeller, but I do store your methods in my mental cabinet. Who knows, I may find something there when I need it 🙂 

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Thanks a lot, Jeroen! Yes, the more I practice in this fascinating hobby, the more I turn perfectionist, as most of modelers, I suppose. And in the Mustang case, I have happily the opportunity to get a lot of infos, measures, pics. Btw, I have phoned Jean-Michel Gauthé and I am gonna check tomorrow on his awesome Mustang Convertible 67 some complementary points regarding the deflectors and the windshield. 

This day began very well, as I found in my pro internet box a message coming from a french modeler who, inspired by my 806 thread (and most likely also Harvey’s one) decided to 100% scratchbuild this legendary car  at 1/6!

Like me, but with more talent, he represented Pietro Bordino, the driver.

I just replied to him and wait for his agreement to share his site here (I recommended him to suscribe on Brit).

In these hard times with Covid, model making and sharing is a very good hobby that allows you to have a clever, enjoying and creative passion, without taking risks...

 

Cheers, Olivier

 

Edit just now: here is the link to the Emmanuel site, for those who want to see:

https://www.emarin-regard.fr/

 

I will add it on the 806 research and scratch thread too...

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Now may I get 9,8 mm lenght by raising a bit this lower limit?

the height of the "vertical portion is 13,66 mm, and, still relying on my drawings, this height needs to be not less than 14,5 mm.

 

Conclusion: I have 2 options:

- cheating and not respect the right angles, doing compromises with truth (if I accept an angle of 38° instead of 42° and 68° instead of 70°, I could use the AMT parts

- do not use the AMT parts.

 

I should rather choose the 2nd option. If so, I will have to find a clear part in my stash...

 

Cheers, O

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I know it's easy for me to say BUT I don't think you would be happy using option 1 after all the time and trouble you've taken to get the dash board as near correct as is possible!

 

      Stay safe             Roger

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I agree with Roger. After all you have done to create a truthful presentation, option 2 should be preferred.

On top of that, if you go for option 1, you might run into troubles with the lower edge of your front screen as it is now based on this specific angle at the sides.

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I of course agree with both of you, Roger and Poul, and I mentioned the option 1 just to show the alternative...

Olivier is a bit lazy and, when he may use a part from the kit, he prefferes, but Totally Mad Olivier in general doesn’t agree with such compromises and it is usually he who has the last word! 😉

 

Cheers, TMO

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I come-back from my rdv with J.M Gauthé and I could do some very useful complementary pics and measures:

 

1) about the windshield upper post: I may confirm that the measure below done with Bernard, that could seem wrong because not in line with the other one below, is in fact right:

 

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2) Still about the upper post, I had forgotten to do the measure below when I made the first shooting with Jean-Michel:

 

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I had no other choice than trying to use the rule of 3 method, and determined this thickness was about 3,8 mm. It is in fact a bit more, 4,12 mm. A good new as on my windshield, it is about 4,8 mm (still too much though).

 

3) the deflector glass is flat or nearly so (a good new) and its thickness is 6 mm at 1:1, meaning 0,38 mm at 1/16. This disqualifies definitely the AMT clear part, that is much too thick:

 

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4) I could make good pics of the deflector edge seen from the rear:

 

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5) and also pics showing, on 3/4 rear view, the relation deflector/ windshield, like this one:

 

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Ok, that's all for now. I will have to do compromises, definitely...

 

More soon...

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