Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Dear HOUSTON, with Biggu, you deserve the palm of benevolence. It is a quality I greatly appreciate (a quality that you also share with Juan Manuel Villalba, out of Britmodeller). In France, it is not a so frequent attitude in general (I don't think about modelers here), and I regret that personally. Indeed, I do think compliments, far from pushing to rest on ones laurels, encourage to always do better. Of course, it is also a good thing to have positive, constructive criticisms, to avoid you errors. Thanks a lot anyway for your constant support, so important in the challenge this build is for me... N.B: the color of the AMT sprues matches very well with my WW. This led me to make this trial: I can use my sanding homemade tools (seen above, in the post#712, fe) to apply this high polishing (up to 12000 grit with the Micromesh) on all areas of this dashboard (this polishing would have been necessary anyway if I had decided the painting option)... Cheers, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 ... as we may see (fe) on the pic below: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I've read through the entire thread and all I can say is that I am impressed with the attention to detail going in to this build. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Hello John, I am very glad to see that you could read the entire thread. Wasn't it too boring? In my will of faithful, I am always afraid to be so... As you read it entirely, you could anyway see how I could often change my mind, hesitate, do errors and have to make corrections all the time. You could also see my first steps in the 3D approach, even if I now come-back to a more craft approach (I do not, however, refrain from using it if it serves my purpose). A very "human" build so, but always guided by this goal: "Only the final result will matter"... It is the same philosophy that guided me in all my last builds (Nieuport 11, P-51D Mustang "Missouri Armada", Fiat 806 G.P, Chevrolet Bel Air Convertible 1957...). I also (maybe too much sometimes) want to show not only results, but the way I get them and there is this will to rely on pics, documents (as in the last example above) to explain the reasons of my decisions. This may turn my threads sometimes into nearly scientific approaches, and that is why I am afraid it turns boring for the reader. This fear is maybe influenced too by the comments we got in the first thread in Brit to which I took part, the 806 Gangshow. 2 conceptions of modeling (some proponents of the original thread reproached us of diverting it and making it very annoying) turned the thread controversial, or even hostile, resulting in the closing of this thread by the moderators, the banishment for a while of a great modeler, vontrips, that provided me great tyres and whom I salute if he is still here and the creation by Roy of the "research and scratchbuild" huge thread (more than 200 pages!) Sorry, I am very talkative today, frustated because I intended to go on with my dashboard this afternoon and that I have now to wait for the BS to get hard 🤨... Cheers, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan R Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Hi Olivier, I just love that ribbon strip speedometer. So 60's! We had a 1963 Ford Anglia and that had a strip speedo similar to that. We also had a 1966 Ford Zephyr 4 and that had a strip speedo as well. Ah.. nostalgia. Cheers, Alan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 1 hour ago, Alan R said: I just love that ribbon strip speedometer. So 60's! Me too, Alan, me too! Anyway, I love this car. Somewhere in the thread, quite long ago, Hannes expressed the highest reserves about the Ford Mustang, comparing her to a beautiful girl with a I.Q of 80. Of course, I totally respect this point of view, but it is definitely not mine. This car is an icon, especially in the first versions produced, like this Indy 500, and I love every detail. Consider this ventilation control, fe, or this ribbon strip speedometer, or yet this wheel... Every detail... And that is why I will try to be as faithful as possible ! Cheers, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Hello chaps, Well, as I was trying to represent the missing trim under the dashboard cap (with a paper clip), I noticed that the step on the sides of the latter were wrong too. I decided to make a merciless comparison and could see that some other details were wrong too. In general, the AMT part is too round, while the Mustang dashboard appears a bit more angulous: Conclusion:I am not out of the woods yet! (even if I will necessary do some compromises...) Cheers, Olivier 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Hi Olivier, I‘ve just done a three page catch-up so apologies for all the ‘likes’ coming together. Great attention to detail as usual. Stay safe. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Thanks John. Happy to see you follow the thread. E-biking this morning so just a little update: Not enough time to apply the same Revotek LC on the up steps mentioned above... More soon... Olivier 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 Hello to all, the same job has been done on the top wrong steps: I have just sent a message to Bernard to get a pic of this bottom area and some measures: In the meantime, I will redo the painting job on the Blue cap... Cheers, Olivier N.B: the Revotek LC is a good modeling material, but it also has drawbacks: - expensive for a modeling use (dental material). Here, no problem as it was out of stock and so could no more be used... - heavy (may increase significantly the weight of your model if you use a significant amount) - hard material, quite difficult to sand. Here, I used, to make the junction with the much softer polystyren, liquid CA. It is a pity that the very good Brown Stuff and Green Stuff are so dark, a light version would be great especially when used on light colors such the WW... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 13, 2020 Author Share Posted June 13, 2020 If some of you have suggestions and experience to share, it will be welcome... Cheers, Olivier 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted June 13, 2020 Share Posted June 13, 2020 Keep going, Olivier... you're doing a fine job, matey. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Here are, below, in Bernard's Mustang, the slots I just mentioned in the label: N.B: I don't know if the speakers visible through the narrowest slots are faithful to the original ones (no period pic of this area) but we may suppose so, as there was a car radio... Cheers, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Problem: the more I look at this air inlet on the real car, the more I think it is not possible, I can't stand this AMT so wrong (in shape as in dimensions) engraving supposed to figure it. And in the same time, how to represent it (even a bit simplified)? 3D? Waiting for suggestions and a decision, here are the other pics I made (with measures) on Bernard's Mustang in november 2018: We may notice that the air inlet takes place in a rectangular (with rounded angles) recessed area. More, it is much bigger (even without counting the recessed area) than the AMT engraving: 490 mm lenght meaning 30,6 mm at 1/16 (AMT engraving area 22 mm), 110 mm width meaning 6,9 mm at 1/16 (AMT engraving area between 3,5 and 4,2 mm). P.S: I am gonna see Bernard today for an event (birthday of my friend, his son-in-law), I secretly hope (but don't think so, too long ride) that he will come with the Mustang!! Cheers, Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Hello chaps, Bernard came with the Mustang! And even if I had to wait patiently (we were all here for my friend's birthday and it was a very nice day), I finally could get the precisions I needed (on which I will come-back in another post) and I also could make some new pics,(you will find a selection below) especially of the dashboard, Chrome trim and buttons. As I said above, I feel every detail in this car breathes the will to make the owner happy. Look at these dials and buttons (all the contrary of the Tesla Model 3 plain style (no button, no dashboard, just a wide screen!). But if all these details are great in the Mustang, they are a nightmare for the modeler who wants to represent them as well as possible!! Yes, definitely, I love this vintage car, so american, so rock, so iconic, so sexy... Cheers, Olivier 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Hi again, the main info I was expecting was the lenght under the dashboard (see my post# 760). I had anticipated that this portion was too short on the AMT kit by looking at pics such this one: and indeed, it is longer (about 180 mm on the real car in total, meaning 11,25 mm at 1/16) and the same lenght all along (no notch in the middle, making it still shorter). I will keep 10 mm because this bottom part is a bit rounded and we measured with a rounded meter: I had not the idea of making a photo door opened (like on the pic above) and the one I made is too close, made using the selfie mode of my IPhone, but you can see the bottom portion of the ashtray, definitely much longer than on the AMT kit: Well, have to leave this now for a full day of pro work... Cheers, stay in tune if you like Olivier 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Hi all, A very little update, as I had just 40 mn this evening, back from work: Cheers, Olivier 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 (edited) Olivier, This has to be one of the most finest, detailed Mustang builds I have ever seen... In fact this is a masterclass of how to build a AMAZING looking vehicle. Your EXQUISITE detailing, solutions and innovative ideas are just ASTOUNDING.. I love precision and detailed work and I an enjoying your build. Keep it up. Rock on Olivier. HOUSTON. {yes I am fine. been busy with things otherwise great and looking forward to seeing your authentic builds ! keep safe and well.) Edited June 16, 2020 by HOUSTON 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 16, 2020 Author Share Posted June 16, 2020 Thanks so much HOUSTON! Even if I probably don’t deserve so kind compliments, it is very good to read them and they encourage me a lot while I have so many challenges yet to come... And considering the few time I have (I said above that I would need another containment!), I really don’t know when this Mustang will be over. Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Not easy to work cleanly with this Silver Grey Milliput (even with gloves), I will probably have to apply a new coat of blue and varnish on the cap... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 The white super fine Milliput is easier to work with I think Olivier (at least I use it regularly). You might also want to smooth things out a bit by wetting the applied material (or your tool) slightly, it works well and saves on sanding time. It becomes very tough but still can be sanded with some effort. Easier than your dental resin in any case! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harveyb258 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 4 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Not easy to work cleanly with this Silver Grey Milliput I don't rate it very highly at all for our kind of application, if I'm being honest. I find it too soft and gritty... a bit like decorators Polyfilla. The Superfine White and the Black, however, are far superior, in my opinion. 37 minutes ago, JeroenS said: You might also want to smooth things out a bit by wetting Good advice. Keep up the good work, Mad Olly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Thanks to both, Jeroen and Harvey. I look forward to receiving this SF White... And indeed, I tried to smooth the surface with a wet spatula, as you suggest... And you are right, Jeroen, my dental resin (Revotek) is definitely too hard, I will stop using it from the moment I find a good putty (maybe the SF White...). Did someone of you try the Tamiya epoxy putty? More soon... Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 What would be the perfect putty? a very good question for the scratch builders we are, definitely! If for small gaps, it is not a problem to answer ((imho, the liquid CA in combination or not with the Magic Powder (now named Magicdust21 Glass Powder) is very good for that purpose, even if some other options are very good too)), I did not find up to now the perfect putty to shape large volumes. For me, this perfect putty should be: 1 - white or nearly so 2 - very fast setting time (a light cured material would be the best option from this point of view, allowing a long working time (if you avoid direct light on it) and a very fast set (10 to 20 s. with a good curing lamp) 3 - easy to handle and to shape (fine viscosity, able to maintain a stable shape until it is hard) 4 - clean handling 5 - easy to sand, to engrave and to polish. The Revotek could have been this material if it was easy to sand and to engrave, but it is not, as you could see above. So? The Brown and Green Stuff are dark, long setting time, but quite clean and quite easy to sand and engrave. I wait to get the Superfine White Milliput and the Tamiya epoxy putty and, after trials, I will probably try to share with you my feelings with the latter in a kind of review. In the meantime, if you experienced a fine putty material on large volumes, please share your experience here. Jeroen and Harvey seem to use with quite satisfaction the SF Milliput (I would clearly prefer it White than Black, for the painting job to come). This thread is also a space of experience shared, in the interest of all. Cheers, Olivier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOUSTON Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Good advice Olivier. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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