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Olivier de St Raph

Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car

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1) And the winner is (for now): Molotow LC + C1 powder buffing (the best compromise imho)!

If you want a Dark Chrome, the best result is got with the combination TS-14/ C1.

 

P5l0B2.jpg

 

The C1 powder is a disappointment for me: the 3 rd photo on the instructions below suggested an amazing light Chrome, exactly what I wanted, but I would be glad to know how this result could be got (I followed strictly imho the instructions and was very generous with the powder):

bFKVR4.jpg

 

P.S: maybe I found out the recipe by myself. As I wanted to send a message to C1 Models on the internet site, I saw that it is recommended to apply a "Metallic Blue" base coat to get a light Chrome. Pity, this was not precised in the instructions...

2UxaaU.png

 

Pity, the manufacturer doesn't give a precise reference for this Metallic Blue. It is very nice and shiny. Do you recognize what paint it is? Tamiya TS-19? TS-54? Candy Electric Blue ZP?

I sent a message to C1 Models and hope I will get the answer.

More soon...

 

2)

O0oiAp.jpg

 

 

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Now that I know a Blue base coat may allow to get a lighter Chrome, and before buying new products, I do trials with the paints I ever have. A first trial with the Tamiya Sky Blue X-14 (acrylic) was encouraging, with a nice and less Dark Chrome after buffing than with a Black or Gun Metal base coat. Though, as the result remains too dark, I do a new trial with the Hobby Color Bright H45 Light Blue (acrylic too). I have to wait the drying before buffing, I will show the result as soon as possible.

4bjXEK.jpg

 

Been thinking that I could also get a nice Metallic Blue by applying first a coat of Silver (fe Tamiya enamel X11) on which I would apply a Gloss Transparent Blue, I then prepared this new sample:

KwqJDr.jpg

 

I look forward to see what these new trials will show. One thing is sure: I prefer a mirror effect with a Chrome a bit too dark than a light Chrome with a not real mirror effect (Molotow LC)... That’s why I go on with my trials, hoping I will be rewarded...

 

P.S: a sentence has kept my attention in the C1 powder instructions posted above: "If polishing is unavoidable, remove surface contaminants using a detergent before applying powder".

Considering the major influence of a high sheen base coat before buffing with C1 to get a mirror effect, I thought that it would be interesting to test that option: getting a high sheen of the blue base coat (like we could get without polishing with the TS-14) by polishing (Alclad Micromesh, Tamiya Compounds) and then wash with detergent the part, before applying the powder... 

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Here is the result I could get with my last trials:

I chose to buff (despite the recommendations of the instructions) my samples with the Tamiya compounds, and then used dish soap (a bath in US tank with water) as detergent.

The C1 powder has worked on this polished and washed surface.

With both samples, I get a lighter Chrome, very nice but still a bit too dark. It doesn't seems really necessary to use a metallic base coat, the solution to get a lighter Chrome is rather to have a lighter Blue base coat.

I am gonna try to lighten my H45, by mixing it with Gloss White...

a8j4PG.jpg

 

PR23Lb.jpg

 

dAfnhf.jpg

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I have got my second box, the opportunity to do a comparison between the different options, each one with advantages and drawbacks:

1) Molotow LC: the color is very good (9/10) but the brightness is really not convincing (4/10). 13/20

A8IEEJ.jpg

 

2) Pale Blue (my last sample) + C1: the color remains too dark (pity, the influence of the base coat color is low) (6/10) while the mirror effect is very good (8,5/10). 14,5/20

cCAX95.jpg

 

3) The AMT Chrome is great: color 10/10 and mirror effect 10/10, but the front bumper has a wrong shape (especially vertical appendixes), there are mould lines, sprues de-clumping marks and the pads are missing. 

F7qBAt.jpg

 

Conclusion: Up to now, I could not get (despite my efforts) the great AMT Chrome with neither the C1 powder, neither the Molotow LC. I don't know what to do anymore.

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Have you tried Uschi chrome powder? See here

 

I like the product, it's simple and convincing. 

 

Another option would be to chromeplate the plastic. See here

 

One thing is for sure, nobody can rightfully say you aren't ambitious. 

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Thanks a lot Roy for these suggestions. I didn't know Uschi had such powders in his catalog. As you seem to have this Chrome powder from Uschi, can you show me the Chrome you get with it? Before buying it, I would like to be sure I will get a lighter Chrome than with the C1...

And I am going to study with care the 2nd option too.

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

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Very kind, Roy! I accept, of course. In this case, I will leave for now this aspect and focus on other ones (and there are plenty!!)

Do you need me to recall you my adress? I suppose so, and I am gonna send you a PM for that.

 

Cheers

 

Olivier

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Not necessary I should have it, will send it today.

 

Update: have included a sample of the other two powders (iron / steel). 

 

30952467258_f08cf8ce14_k.jpg 

I must apologise for our international stamps. Could also have chosen a specimen depicting: 

 

- A cow; or

- A bicycle; or

- A typical Dutch house; or

- A tulip. 

 

Thought I'd pick the worst: 

 

43913857945_5e37e48951_k.jpg  

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2 hours ago, Roy vd M. said:

One thing is for sure, nobody can rightfully say you aren't ambitious. 

If nobody can say I am not ambitious, nobody can’t say you are slow and ineffective !

Thanks a lot and don’t worry about the stamps! :D

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