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Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car


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Something I didn't tell you: after having replaced my air inlet by a new 3D one, I necessarily had to apply the WW again on it. I should have planned a kind of cage to avoid the paint to pass through the slots. When I removed the wide masks used to protect the dashboard cap, I discovered shamefully that mainly my carpet, but also the pedals, the gearbox and even, to a lesser extend, the steering wheel had been affected by the WW paint!

I could not show you such a thing. I decided to first try to do the necessary corrections. A coat of Blue paint was first applied successfully on the carpet (it is even better now!), then the gearbox was gently removed and repainted. For the pedals, I decided to use the custom decal method, and they are also better now than before the accident. Corrections on the Chrome of the steering wheel were made with the GSW Paintbrush Chrome. Now that it is OK, I can show you:

 

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For these corrections as for the custom decal steps, I must say that I use a lot my dehydrator, sometimes just a few minutes. It allows me to earn a lot of time. I really don't regret this purchase and I recommend it strongly, even if some other options are possible...

I am trying to avoid to redo completely the doors decal job.

My next post should be dedicated to these corrections following the gaps job.

 

Cheers, O

 

P.S: since I am at confessions, I must tell you that my cracks problems mainly on the left front wing are not totally over. I am cursed!

But you know me, I'm not letting go...

 

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Could it be that the cracking may be exacerbated by the lack of primer under the top coats. Primer gives a stronger bond to plastic, which in turn gives a stronger bond to the WW. This may reduce any movement of subsequent coats of  paint and clear coat. Since it appears to be in that specific spot, there may be something in the plastic that might be sealed off by a primer coat. It may be a far fetched idea, but possible.

Happy Holidays, Les

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2 hours ago, Lvp said:

Could it be that the cracking may be exacerbated by the lack of primer under the top coats. Primer gives a stronger bond to plastic, which in turn gives a stronger bond to the WW. This may reduce any movement of subsequent coats of  paint and clear coat. Since it appears to be in that specific spot, there may be something in the plastic that might be sealed off by a primer coat. It may be a far fetched idea, but possible.

Happy Holidays, Les

Thanks Les. As I am a pragmatic guy, I decided to follow this suggestion. After having sanded seriously the area, I have applied a thin coat of Tamiya White Surface Primer. The can was shaken with my great new shaker (I also use it constantly, as the dehydrator). Well, we shall see. I must say that up to now, following my master J.M Villalba, I avoided if possible to use a primer. And it is the very first time I meet such a cracking problem with paint. Maybe a concave surface like this one is more subject to this problem and maybe (I hope so!) the primer will prevent it...

 

Happy holidays too!

1 hour ago, mustang1989 said:

Sounds like you've recovered nicely from the mishap Oliver. Man

Yes my friend. I must admit I was not very proud, and I worried a lot about applying a paint on my nice felt. But finally, it was an evil for a good.

(you learnt me the word "mishap", thanks 👍)

 

Cheers, O

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Hello my friends,

 

A new little update. The right door is now assembled on the body!

Left side, I was not very happy with the front gap:

 

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N.B:

- in the label, I said that I may BEGIN the sanding job. But to be honest, the putty was not set "core". I could open carefully the door and place both door and body again in the Riviera machine. 20 mn later, the sanding job could really be done...

- these gloves are fine for the putty/ sanding job. For the painting step, I go on using the nitrile ones.

 

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Hello my friends,

A full week has passed since my last post.

Even if I have been busy with my pro work, I also have taken strong decisions and worked quite a lot on my Mustang.

The strong decision was to redo completely the decals on both doors and body, because the gaps narrowing job required retouches of paint that were impossible to do correctly without removing the decals.

I had taken a good pic and could so recreate the MUSTANG and Ford inscriptions on Clear custom decal:

 

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I should be able to post a pic of the whole body (before the decal job) before the end of this week-end I hope...

 

Cheers, O

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A masters touch:thumbsup:----well, except for the light brown:think:-----:winkgrin:

Good Decision to reprint, There would be no way in heck you would have ever lived with the old decals after all the battering of the areas around them.

 

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Hello my friends,

 

I am really happy with my Badger 200 simple action airbrush. It has helped me to understand something very important to get a smooth shiny surface even without polishing/ buffing. I have learnt from all my builds, but I think none of them learnt me as much as this one. In the same time, I never spent so much time on a build, even on the Fiat 806.

It appears that to get the shiny surface mentioned above, in addition to the use of Mr Color Leveling thinner with a ratio of about 65/ 35, the paint flow must be quite important and the distance airbrush/ surface must be quite short (less than 10 cm). 

So, after many little necessary corrections here or there, I could apply a second coat of WW this morning.

Even if the Mustang was put in the dehydrator with careful parameters (40° 30 mn), I don't consider this coat is totally set tonight especially if you consider that this coat was quite "thick". So, the rear part of the car, by which I hold the model during this paint session, will not get a final coat before at least tomorrow.

Here is the result I get with the parameters mentioned above and with the Badger 200:

 

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Cheers, O

 

 

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Thanks a lot Steve, very kind and funny too, as usual!

A happy Christmas to you and to your family too, and to all! 
I was a bit optimistic thinking I could work with nitrile gloves on my Mustang today. I had not noticed that my gloves are a bit textured at the bottom of fingers, and the surface was a bit affected by places, while I was bringing small corrections, especially on gaps. 

I will be very careful from now with the gloves. It is not enough to wear gloves, it is mandatory to check that they are totally smooth on all their surface, especially the fingers.

Nothing to be afraid, but as usual, I share with you my (many!) mistakes to avoid you the same…

But this also means that I will have to be more patient the next time. The surface may seem to be dry-touch, leaving a finger a few seconds (no problem) or more than that has not the same consequences…

 

Cheers, O

 

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Hello my friends,

 

After the last corrections and the ones due to my gloves, I applied a new coat of WW. This time, even using (carefully) my dehydrator, I will wait at least 5 days before doing anything more on my Mustang.

In the meantime, and before leaving my bench for a few days, I tried to improve my MUSTANG and Ford doors inscriptions made with custom decals.

Thanks to Photoscape X (upgrade version), I could paint the light Brown color and the result is far better.

The letters Ford were too dark, not enough Blue. Here too, Photoscape helped me to get something better:

 

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N.B: the color of the MUSTANG last version is totally uniform, unlike what this pic suggests if you zoom it.
 

Cheers, O

 

 

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Your attention to the smallest detail never ceases to amaze me, your replica will be more accurate than the original 1:1 scale version!

 

  Stay safe and seasons greetings                   Roger

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Thanks a lot, Poul!

I did not expect this build not to be over end of this year, but it is so! 

So many errors, so many challenges, so many trials, so much work put back on the bench again and again...

But I promise my Mustang build will be finished before the end of 2022 (hopefully much before!)

Merry Christmas to you and your family, Poul!

 

Cheers, O

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Hello my friends,

 

My body painting job should be soon OK. 

What will be the next challenge?

Most likely the hood cover. My intention for the latter is to use the Tamiya Epoxy Putty, that could be applied in thin coat (about 2 mm thickness) thanks to a rolling pin. I will take inspiration in the pics I have of the real car of course, but also in the hood cover of the 1/24 Monogram Mustang Pace Car showed much above (September 26, 2018 p. 9 of the thread):

 

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The decals MUSTANG, Ford, Official, INDIANAPOLIS 500 and PACE CAR will be applied only after the hood cover job, in order to be sure they won't be damaged. As I will have a gloss surface with the paint coat, the GX112 Gloss Coat will be applied only after the decals placement.

 

Cheers, O

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Hello my friends,

 

I hope you all spent a merry Christmas.

Back home, I applied a new coat of WW on about 2/3 of the Mustang body, including the doors.

As I have to wait patiently and leave this coat to set completely, I thought that I could begin what will be my next build:

 

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Why such a choice?

First let's precise that I had this kit in my bench. And if I bought it one day, it is because I love the shapes and colors of this motorbike.

Then because, after the totally amazing build the Mustang has been (and it is not over!), I wanted a more simple project, an out of the box build.

And finally because this build should not be too long, and that I was about 15 when I built the last (and first) motorbike. This will change me of cars and aircrafts I usually build...

I will probably create a new thread (decision not yet taken) about this Tamiya Honda Repsol 1/12, unless I just show it when finished in the RFI section to earn time.

Be sure, though, that priority will be given to the Mustang.

But as I have a little free time for these holidays, I'm afraid I won't have the necessary patience to wait the required setting time...

 

Cheers, O

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22 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++ I wanted a more simple project, an out of the box build. +++

 

May we remind you of this sentence now or then in the future in the Honda's build-thread? (I'm asking for a friend)

Edited by Jochen Barett
"build" not "buid"
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2 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

May we remind you of this sentence now or then in the future in the Honda's buid-thread? (I'm asking for a friend)

You may, Jochen, of course, but first I am not sure at all I will open a WIP thread about this new build, because it would mean spending a lot of time, while I want above all go on and finish the Mustang. If I do, I will just show the main steps. 

As I said above, I will probably just create a RFI thread when the Honda will be finished.

And more, I assure you that, for the Honda build, if of course, I will try to get the best result possible, considering the high quality of this kit, I will be reasonable and will not do totally amazing things as I had to do with the Mustang and some other builds, such the Nieuport 11, the P-51D Mustang or the Fiat 806.

 

Cheers, O

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31 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

I will be reasonable and will not do totally amazing things

 

Time will tell if this statement is correct, once the box is open........................................................................

 

  Stay safe      Roger

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I um eh - My friend just found this series of videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=667QYD14m9w&list=PLNjRqq0vze_BOr0pVnQDJIM9hd7XGIQ1Z

and this detail set https://tamiyablog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/DSCF1770.jpg

and I am he is confident you will understand and acknowledge that we will need some kind of proof, you are doing it OOB.

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