Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible 1/16 from the Coupe AMT kit: the Indy 500 Pace Car

[Totally Mad Olivier]

1 hour ago, Alan R said:

Hi Olivier,

I find that when spraying Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinners, I often use a ratio of 1 part paint, two parts thinner (33/66). It still really works well. Reduces "Orange Peel" appearance as well.

 

Cheers,

Alan.

Very interesting and inspiring, Alan!

I will try to thin even more my mix…

Less grain also means less post-processing with Micromesh to get the fine result expected…

 

Cheers, O

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

For the trunk (re) painting job, I added some Mr Color Leveling thinner to my mix, following Alan suggestion and I don't regret it (I recall that Barbatos Rex, in the video, puts more paint than thinner, I don't follow him on that point). Of course, with such a thinning (about  33/66), the paint covers less. But on the other hand, I get so a very fine coat with a minimum of grain (as I could get thinning with 96% alcohol up to now but with the advantage to get a nice Gloss surface very suitable for polishing instead of a flat one).
More, in this case, covering less is not a problem, since I paint on a sanded but not totally rid of the paint layer surface.
And even if it was the case, the AMT bare plastic is nearly the same color than my WW.

Now I want to precise what I meant in my penultimate  post about the Compounds.

All these last days, I have been trying many post processing options and I may now draw interesting conclusions that I share with you through a new protocole (Word doc) very different than the one posted November 1 (p. 71) and here it is below, in french and also in english:

 

Protocole laque brillante sur carrosserie maquette:

 

1°) Étape peinture :

-       L’état de surface de la pièce à peindre doit être aussi parfait que possible, exempt de défaut. 

-       N’appliquer la peinture dans des conditions exemptes de poussière et d’humidité excessive.

-       Diluer la peinture acrylique Tamiya (ce peut être un mélange de peintures) avec le Mr Color Leveling thinner selon le ratio 1 part de peinture/ 2 parts de diluant. Le mélange peinture/ diluant peut avantageusement être préparée dans un flacon en verre gradué (type Tamiya 23 ml, par ex.). Évidemment, avec une telle dilution, le mélange appliqué sera moins couvrant. Idéalement, le plastique devrait donc avoir à peu près la même couleur que la couleur à appliquer (c’est le cas pour la Mustang, Dieu merci, un bon point pour AMT) ou au moins être plus clair que celle-ci. Si la teinte du plastique est plus foncée, il faudra modifier un peu le ratio (plutôt 40/60) voire recourir à un primer clair type Tamiya White Surface Primer.

-       Régler d’abord le débit d’air sur 30 psi et pulvériser air seul sur la pièce pour éliminer d’éventuelles poussières

-       Appliquer à l’aéro le mélange (pression 20 psi) en plusieurs passages. On peut même diluer un peu davantage en ajoutant dans l’aéro quelques gouttes de diluant avant un dernier passage. Laisser sécher 24 h minimum.

-       Utiliser les Micromesh 3200 à 12000 coupés en petits carrés (ou rectangles) montés sur applicateur manuel ou, pour des surfaces planes et larges, sur Proxxon PS13* (mini ponceuse linéaire, permet de gagner du temps sur le ponçage) en combinaison avec les Compounds (en quantité infime) étalés au doigt pour éliminer les grains et obtenir du même coup le lustre souhaité. 

Le Coarse sera plutôt utilisé avec les grains 3200, 3600, 4000 et 6000, le Fine avec le grain 8000 et le Finish avec le grain 12000.

Dans ce protocole, les chiffons de buffing Tamiya ne sont utilisés que pour essuyer délicatement l'excès de pâte avant passage des Micromesh (ne laissant qu'un film qui évite les microrayures et accélère la procédure de ponçage) et les Compounds ne sont pas utilisés après le passage du Micromesh 12000, à moins de vouloir une fini ultra brillant de 10 sur une échelle de brillance de 0 à 10 (effet miroir).

Terminer ce lustrage avec un chiffon microfibre de qualité à sec.

 

 2°) Étape vernis : 

Noter que cette étape peut sembler superflue (ou du moins facultative) vu le lustre qu’on obtient en appliquant le protocole ci-dessus. Le vernis n'est pas là pour apporter le fini brillant (on l'a déjà) mais il apporte (au prix d'un travail complémentaire non négligeable) une protection long terme à la peinture.

-       travailler dans de bonnes conditions (humidité faible, pas de poussière)

-       Préparer le vernis GX112 à raison de 4 parts de diluant Mr Color Leveling pour 1 part de GX112 (p. ex, 28 gouttes de diluant, 7 gouttes de vernis). 

-       Régler d’abord le débit d’air sur 30 psi et pulvériser air seul sur la pièce pour éliminer d’éventuelles petites poussières

-       Régler ensuite le débit sur 20 psi et appliquer d’abord une fine couche (accroche)

-       Compléter quelques minutes après avec une couche complémentaire un petit peu plus épaisse (déplacement un peu plus lent avec l’aérographe). Ne pas charger cette couche cependant.

-       Mettre délicatement les pièces à l’abri de la poussière 

-       Laisser sécher 3h minimum si on décide d’appliquer une 2ème couche, 24 h minimum après le dernier passage, avant le polissage final aux Micromesh de la même façon.

 

* la ponceuse est "promenée" sur la surface sans pression, dans les 2 sens, alternativement

 

In english now:

 

Glossy lacquer on model protocol:

 

1) Paint step:

- The surface to paint must be clean, as smooth as possible, free of defect

- Airbrush only in dry and free of dust conditions  

- After mixing it thoroughly, thin the Tamiya acrylic paint (it may be a mix of several Tamiya acrylics) with Mr Color Leveling thinner with a ratio 1 part of paint/ 2 parts of thinner (this ratio will have to be rather 40/60 if the plastic on which the paint is applied is Dark (if so, it may be useful to apply a tack coat of Light primer such the Tamiya White Surface Primer). The mix may be prepared one time for all in a graduated Glass flask (such the Tamiya 23 ml, fe).

- Set first the air pressure on 2 bars and spray air alone to remove any dust

- Spray the mix at about 20 psi (1,5 bar), holding if possible the piece to paint vertically (airbrush more or less horizontal), to limit the risk of dust affixing on the piece. If though a little dust settles on the surface, don't try to remove it but avoid spraying paint on. It will be easily removed after the full setting time, with the Micromesh.

- It is possible, to get an even smoother surface, to add even a bit more thinner (directly in the airbrush cup) and apply a last coat of this very thinned mix

- Wait at least 24h.

- Use the Micromesh 3600 to 12000 (on which a dst has been applied) cut in little square mounted on a hand applicator (see below) or, for wide surfaces, on the Proxxon PS13* (allows to earn time on such surfaces), in combination with the Compounds in minute quantities (Coarse with 3200, 3600, 4000 and 6000 grits, Fine with 8000, Finish with the 12000). The minute quantity of Compound is applied with the index pulp and spread on the surface. It accelerates the sanding job and prevents from little scratches.

Finish the polish with a clean quality microfiber cloth.

Check the result: if some little grain is still present on the whole surface or by places, repeat the procedure with Micromesh and Compounds as  mentioned.

 

You should get so a very nice, smooth and shiny surface, and we may wonder if the varnish step is really necessary. But as we expect our models to survive us, it is advisable to bring a protection to the paint coat...

 

2) Gloss Coat step:

- Spray in dry free of dust conditions

- Thin the Mr Color GX112 with Mr Color Leveling thinner with a ratio of 1 part GX112 for 4 parts of Mr CLT. As for the paint, the mix may usefully be prepared one time for all in a graduated Glass flask

- Spray in the same conditions than for the paint, a thin/ medium coat. If necessary, a second coat will be applied a few hours after the first one.

- Setting time before the post-processing job (same way than with the paint): 24 h

 

* do not exert any pressure on the PS13 linear sander while you move it on the surface, alternatively in both directions

 

 

 

 

Well, this protocole is the result of my own experience and also from what I learned from your suggestions. It is imho a good way to get reproducible and nice results. 

I don't pretend of course it to be the only way to get such results.

Hoping it will help other modelers...

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: I have changed my mind about the dehumidifier. I could think that it was responsible of the paint cracks, I now know that this problem (focused on the left wing) is pity present even stopping it.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

I had to wait 24 h after the painting job on the trunk to do the post processing as mentioned in the previous post. Now I can show you the results I get BEFORE THE GLOSS COAT:

 

 

 

 

 

There 's no miracle: a patient sanding job is necessary to get this smooth free of grain shiny surface. But it is worth it imho...

 

To be followed...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Tip of the day: I showed above how to make the most of the great Micromesh sanding sheets (the Micromesh are probably the best sanding product on the modeling market), glueing them on a double sided tape. This allows to cut custom portions and, once attached to the head of a manual plugger or the altered head of the Proxxon PS13, to easily sand and polish the pieces.

I go a bit further here, recommending the wide version of the Micromesh (most of the case, they are sold in the narrow version). Why?

Just because they are 8 cm width and this allows to cut in a band 4 strips of 2 cm each (the dst are usually 2 cms):

 

 

More, I could find a (german) seller who may sell precisely the grits you need. 

Here are below the ones I ordered a few days ago. I got them today (very fast service):

 

 

Here is the e-mail adress of this very good seller:

[email protected]

And here is the Online shop: http://www.schleifartikel.com

 

Hoping this helps, happy modelling to all

 

Olivier

 

P.S: I watched a new video of Barbatos Rex about a dehydrator that allows to decrease significantly the setting time. Have some of you tried such a display? Do you use something like that?

Barbatos, who uses this little machine for about 1 year, seems very happy with it:

 

 

[Prop Duster]

Oliver, Now, you stop that,. Giving me More equipment I have to buy.      😁 

All though the idea of having my paint dry and some dried fruit to munch on as I assemble the kit does have a certain appeal.  Ok I know danger! fumes!, toxic waste! warning labels!  and all--sigh, life is not so simple as it used to be  

[JeroenS]

Thanks for the tip about the micromesh seller Olivier. 

 

A dehydrator thingy, wow. Can't say that I have one, I still think of this as a hobby which may take time 😆

 

I sometimes use an old hairdryer to make the paint dry faster, works fine too. Cheaper as well, because I "liberated" it from my wife a couple of years ago. The cost of a new hairdryer, therefore, could not be traced back to my hobby 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Christmas arrived early for me this year and Santa Claus brought me very nice presents:

- a Badger 200 airbrush, that is a single action very simple airbrush. 

- the Four e's great paint mixer suggested by Barbatos Rex

- a Riviera et Bar dehydrator, that should allow me, still referring to Barbatos Rex, to save a lot of setting time on paints, Clears, Putties, Surfacers, primers etc. It could be used also to dry the airbrush...

 

I began to use all now (you know me...) all of them.

The Badger 200 allows to apply with a regular coat of paint or Clear (precise flow adjustement by the rear knob). It is as easy to clean as the 150 model.

I think this airbrush is better for large areas such a 1/16 or bigger scale car. I could get it for a very cheap price on ebay (102,99€ shipping costs included):

 

 

 

 

And a bit later:

 

If you have any questions about one of these products, I will be pleased to answer...

I am very happy, sure that these new tools will improve even more my modeling experience!

 

Cheers, O

[JeroenS]

Nice stuff!!

 

It's a food dehydrator, right? 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

2 hours ago, JeroenS said:

t's a food dehydrator, right? 

Yes it is. Its inside dimensions allow to put quite big bodies, such my 29 cm Mustang (I will give you the precise inside dimensions if you want - now at my cabinet -).

It is the QDH 310 model sold 193€ on Amazon.

 

Cheers, O

[JeroenS]

I see, it's like a hot air oven but with much lower temperatures. Pretty nice, it keeps the dust off and dries at the same time. Still a bit on the expensive side though, but a good addition to your workshop. I'll just use my €5 plastic box / hairdryer combo 🙂 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

I began the very delicate door/ body gap thinning job. I will show later the right side, by which I began and that turned a bit to a nightmare for now.

I was a bit more experienced for the left side:

 

 

The whole body is now in the dehydrator. Thanks to the latter, the sanding job should be possible within about 40 mn, while about 12 h would have been necessary up to now...

 

Cheers, O

 

P.S: sorry if this is again gut wrenching, but I couldn't leave these gaps much too wide...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello again,

 

 

N.B: the Putty must be applied in excess as the products shrinks a bit with setting. It is this little shrinkage in combination with the release solution that allowed me to open the door and get instantly the very narrow gap. Notice more that the Putty is easy to sand (not hard material) after setting.

 

Now what happened on the right side, done first?

for this right side, I applied the Tamiya Putty White with a spatula (the tube, unlike the Vallejo Putty, doesn't have a narrow head) and I didn't use the Proseptine and the masking tape to protect my MUSTANG decal. I could get an acceptable result in term of gap but I damaged a bit the M of MUSTANG and the I of INDIANAPOLIS:

 

 

 

Cheers, O

[JeroenS]

What are you going to do about the damaged decals? Re-apply them or touch up with paint? The door gap looks really good, I went back about 10 pages to find a "before" picture but couldn't find it (or missed it). I don't know how you work up the nerve each time, to redo your work on the body like this.

[Jochen Barett]

1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++ I could get an acceptable result in term of gap but I damaged a bit the M of MUSTANG and the I of INDIANAPOLIS +++

* sigh *

[Jo NZ]

When it come to a perfect finish, in the early days  BBR (who are quite good at a gloss coat) used an old fridge with a 100w light bulb in it to cure the paint. Worked very well.

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

4 hours ago, JeroenS said:

What are you going to do about the damaged decals?

Good question, Jeroen. Pity, I can’t use the 2 nd kit decal (ever used). An option would be to try to recreate from a good pic a custom decal of the M letter. The paint touch-up is very delicate, I´m afraid the correction to be visible with this option.

 

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

5 hours ago, JeroenS said:

I don't know how you work up the nerve each time, to redo your work on the body like this.

In my pro work, I´m used to meet challenges and to fight patiently. Patience is a mandatory quality also for a modeler and for me, the good modeler is not the one who never makes mistakes but the one who achieves cleaning up his mess.

And I learn from every mistake I do (I learn a lot, so 😂)…

[JeroenS]

6 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

In my pro work, I´m used to meet challenges and to fight patiently. Patience is a mandatory quality for a modeler and for me, the good modeler is not the one who never makes mistakes but the one who achieves cleaning up his mess.

And I learn from every mistake I do (I learn a lot, so 😂)…

Your clients are lucky to have you... although I hope they're less involved in the learning process 😉 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

53 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

Your clients are lucky to have you... although I hope they're less involved in the learning process 😉 

I want to reassure you, Jeroen, if my patients were maybe a bit involved in the learning process the first years of my dental practice, at 58, I am a bit more experienced.

When I will have spent as much time with modeling than with my patients today (in about 200 years), I think I will be experienced enough in modeling to avoid most of the traps I still fall into…

Wish me so a very long life… 😂

[Totally Mad Olivier]

11 hours ago, JeroenS said:

The door gap looks really good, I went back about 10 pages to find a "before" picture but couldn't find it (or missed it)

Jeroen,

Here is what were these gaps before the putty correction:

 

 

 

You understand that I couldn't stand that...

 

Cheers, O

[JeroenS]

54 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

You understand that I couldn't stand that...

I fully understand!

[mustang1989]

I've been away for a bit due to things in life but on my return I see this beautiful build still going on. You're really throwing everything at this build Oliver. Keep up the good work and I'll be more active on this thread. 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Thanks a lot, mustang 1989, yes, it is just as you say, throwing everything at this build…

Glad to see you back here again.

 

Cheers, Olivier 

[Pouln]

On 12/6/2021 at 11:32 AM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Good question, Jeroen. Pity, I can’t use the 2 nd kit decal (ever used). An option would be to try to recreate from a good pic a custom decal of the M letter. The paint touch-up is very delicate, I´m afraid the correction to be visible with this option.

 

 

 

Well, I thin k you have a perfect example on the left hand door. Why not take a high-res picture of that and then use it to print your own decal?

There’s one thing that complicates it. The inside color is gold and the average printer does not feature a gold cartridge. So you may have to go with a clear inside and paint the gold on the door before you place the decal.

 

The door gaps look really good now. Especially at the left hand side

[Totally Mad Olivier]

13 hours ago, Pouln said:

Why not take a high-res picture of that and then use it to print your own decal?

That's what I meant, precisely, Poul. Now the question is: should I just replace the M?

Considering the WW I have to reapply on the doors, shouldn't I first assemble the doors, then apply the WW and finally redo completely the decals job? (including the INDIANAPOLIS 500 and Ford inscription). That's definitely what I should have done right away...

About the inside color, I recall that I had painted it on the decal to get a better color and make disappear the AMT decals pixels. It was 1 year ago, December 10, 2020 (p. 48). 

 

Cheers, O